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What hot hatch do you own? This poll is closed. |
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| Golf GTI / R / R32 |
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196 | 0.02% |
| Impreza WRX / STi |
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133 | 0.01% |
| Mazdaspeed 3 |
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92 | 0.01% |
| Veloster Turbo |
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20 | 0.00% |
| Focus ST |
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149 | 0.01% |
| Other Hot Hatch |
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230 | 0.02% |
| Elantra GT |
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1000001 | 99.92% |
| Total: | 1000821 votes | ||
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Huh, interesting. Thanks for the knowledge being dropped!
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Aug 16, 2021 23:28
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xsf421 posted:My 2016 RS was shipped with sync 2, but with hardware capable of running 3 if you flashed it yourself. Sync 3 1.0 was pretty different from the current form though, and did not support Android Auto or CarPlay at all. 2016 models needed a software update to support Android Auto and a new USB hub to support CarPlay. This is probably what you're thinking of. Speaking of the upgrade, I just did mine and it was exactly as easy as the internet said. Taking the pictures literally more than doubled the amount of time it took me to perform the physical install. Low single digit minutes. Updating the software from 1.0 to current was a lot more time consuming since Ford doesn't make it easy, but thankfully there is some third party software that automates most of the process. Album for those who care: https://imgur.com/a/ueUTW1l For the rest, the money shot:  ...and yes my car is dirty as gently caress, I need to clean it. wolrah fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 01:37
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For general discussion: what’s the next hot hatch after a FiST? Obviously, in your opinion.
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Aug 18, 2021 02:28
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Depends on what you want out of it, and what is available in your part of the world. For me I think I'd likely be an i30 N but I'm not sure whether I'd choose the hatch or the liftback, or the manual or auto
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Aug 18, 2021 02:55
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wolrah posted:I'm not aware of this being a thing, they're very different hardware. As far as I'm aware all 2016s are Sync 3 across the board. I used that same updater tool in my 2018 Mustang to get up to 3.4. Newest officially supported version was 3.0 or 3.1 I think, and 3.4 looks a lot nicer.
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Aug 18, 2021 14:26
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dissss posted:Depends on what you want out of it, and what is available in your part of the world. In the US the pickings are getting pretty slim. GTI/Golf R, Veloster N and uhh? I guess the turbo Mazda 3 if you don't mind it being not particularly sporty? Civic Si/Type R if you consider that a hatch?
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Aug 18, 2021 17:21
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The Ionic 5 looks like a hot hatch, but will cost more than a Golf R I am sure. Hyundai is also making a Kona N which will have the Veloster drivetrain and is kind of hatchy / compact SUV.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:25
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The normal Kona is really nice. The Kia Niro as well.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:36
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MunchE posted:In the US the pickings are getting pretty slim. GTI/Golf R, Veloster N and uhh? I guess the turbo Mazda 3 if you don't mind it being not particularly sporty? Civic Si/Type R if you consider that a hatch? Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Aug 18, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 18:36
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MunchE posted:In the US the pickings are getting pretty slim. GTI/Golf R, Veloster N and uhh? I guess the turbo Mazda 3 if you don't mind it being not particularly sporty? Civic Si/Type R if you consider that a hatch? Turbo 3 is nice but it's more like a mini luxury car than a hot hatch. Shame you don't get the Focus any more, the current version is legitimately nice (not that I've driven the ST, while it's technically available here I've never even seen one)
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Aug 18, 2021 21:35
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The chatter I've seen on American FiST groups I'm a part of seems to go three main directions. Veloster N, GTI, and Stinger. Obviously the Veloster N is aimed at those looking for a car that begs to be floored, the GTI's ability to competently be almost anything to anyone is well established, and then the Stinger delivers a Kia-ified take on the Audi Sportback offerings. Obviously on the international groups a lot of people have just moved on to newer ST cars. Personally if I decide to get rid of mine the Stinger is the likely answer.
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Aug 18, 2021 23:35
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A buddy recently picked up a 2019 G70 with the 3.3T. It’s a very nice place to be and stock it was pretty quick. We did plugs, intake and a JB4 and it’s a riot. I haven’t driven a Stinger to compare but if I was looking to spend ~40ish the G70 would be on the list of considerations for sure.
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Aug 19, 2021 01:54
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As I recently bragged ITT, I got a Veloster N. Brand new, with 45km on board. Now I got 1000km on it (was away for a week) and it seems to have changed a bit. At the beginning the steering was a bit stiff, the shifting seemed a bit harder too. Now, either I got used to it or it got a bit smoother. Both the steering and the shifting. Is it normal for a new car (never had a brand new car before)? Or is it just me being "broken in" by the car? I also read on the internets (and the internets never lie ...) that maybe it would be a good idea to have the first oil change sooner than recommended (1-2k km), to get rid of whatever small impurities there may be in there from manufacturing. Is that a thing?
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Aug 19, 2021 03:16
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Volguus posted:As I recently bragged ITT, I got a Veloster N. Brand new, with 45km on board. Now I got 1000km on it (was away for a week) and it seems to have changed a bit. At the beginning the steering was a bit stiff, the shifting seemed a bit harder too. Now, either I got used to it or it got a bit smoother. Both the steering and the shifting. Is it normal for a new car (never had a brand new car before)? Or is it just me being "broken in" by the car? I bought my FiST with 1,400 miles on it, but have never heard that you need to do the first change earlier than average. If that’s a thing, I haven’t heard of it anywhere. Speaking of things though, does anyone have a recommendation for FiST compatible mud flaps? I bought some molded ones off the Ford Parts website that claimed to be compatible, but they are molded for the base Fiesta body lines, so now I have to pursue the return process. Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 03:26
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Volguus posted:As I recently bragged ITT, I got a Veloster N. Brand new, with 45km on board. Now I got 1000km on it (was away for a week) and it seems to have changed a bit. At the beginning the steering was a bit stiff, the shifting seemed a bit harder too. Now, either I got used to it or it got a bit smoother. Both the steering and the shifting. Is it normal for a new car (never had a brand new car before)? Or is it just me being "broken in" by the car? quote:I also read on the internets (and the internets never lie ...) that maybe it would be a good idea to have the first oil change sooner than recommended (1-2k km), to get rid of whatever small impurities there may be in there from manufacturing. Is that a thing? That said, an oil change is cheap and there's never anything wrong with doing one ahead of schedule. As long as you don't totally gently caress it up the worst case is it gains you nothing and you're out the cost of the oil change. If you want to know for sure take a sample and ship it off to Blackstone, let them tell you exactly what came out.
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Aug 19, 2021 03:28
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You guys are most likely right. If they would have wanted me to do an oil change sooner, I'm sure no dealership would have objected.
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Aug 19, 2021 04:02
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I bought my FiST with 1,400 miles on it, but have never heard that you need to do the first change earlier than average. If that’s a thing, I haven’t heard of it anywhere. RokBlokz and Rally Armor both make popular ones for the FoST, they probably make them for the FiST too. RokBlokz are hard plastic composite, Rally Armor are more of a soft rubber that kinda flap a bit in the wind when you drive. I think they both offer them in varying length in case of lowering and whatnot. I've had the RokBlokz on my FoST for over 5 years now with no problems.
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Aug 19, 2021 11:20
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I also have the RokBlokz on mine
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Aug 19, 2021 12:04
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the impurities thing is mostly a holdover from when cars were made on lovely tooling with insane tolerances but it won't hurt the car in any way to do an early oil change
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Aug 19, 2021 12:05
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wolrah posted:The chatter I've seen on American FiST groups I'm a part of seems to go three main directions. Veloster N, GTI, and Stinger. Obviously the Veloster N is aimed at those looking for a car that begs to be floored, the GTI's ability to competently be almost anything to anyone is well established, and then the Stinger delivers a Kia-ified take on the Audi Sportback offerings. Personally I was looking Stinger then ended up in a used S4. No Regrets
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Aug 19, 2021 19:46
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Quite A Tool posted:A buddy recently picked up a 2019 G70 with the 3.3T. It’s a very nice place to be and stock it was pretty quick. We did plugs, intake and a JB4 and it’s a riot. I haven’t driven a Stinger to compare but if I was looking to spend ~40ish the G70 would be on the list of considerations for sure. I was looking at these awhile back. I wonder how well the 2.0L cars drive, which are significantly less. I didn't realize there was a mod market, I bet those are monsters. The 3.3T is in Golf R price ranges which is a pretty good deal for what you're getting. I don't like the way the front looks but those interiors are so nice and seem like they would make a really smooth daily. I may have to test drive one.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:27
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Nomyth posted:Facelift was for model year 2014, I have one of the first examples of a base model Fiesta from that model year and it still had SYNC 2 Turns out my SYNC 2 was broken because I forgot to turn it on  I usually never leave it off so it looked weird when I hit the power at one point for some reason and forgot about it
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Aug 20, 2021 18:44
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Amending my original Veloster N post a bit: The Android Auto USB port turns out is not always live. It is live for about 5-ish minutes after I turn off the car, it becomes live if I lock/unlock the car from the key or if I open the door. But, it turns off after that. Was confusing as hell at first. Happy though that I can leave the AAWireless device plugged in all the time and not have to worry about it. Another unexpected advantage is that since the port becomes live when I open the door, by the time I actually start the car and get moving (20-ish seconds later) the AAWireless device is ready to connect and it becomes available on the screen. Not having to wait 1-2 minutes for it like I did in the Golf is cool as cucumbers.
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Aug 31, 2021 03:32
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I just bought an ep3 for £300. I’m sure this will end well.
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Aug 31, 2021 09:55
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300?? Jesus Christ. Let’s have a look then.
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Sep 3, 2021 12:30
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so I just tested a manual i30 N. Pretty interesting car, especially coming from an 06 GTI. Lots of good stuff - thing hauls rear end in 2nd and is quite torquey low which is good because 1st is very short. All the silly pops and bangs and poo poo are quite amusing and childish in a good way and I like that you can put the car in eco and it goes soft and quiet and slow - and then is a very easy calm drive. BUT the clutch is... weird - especially when I highly value the mechanical, manual feel of my older cars clutch. There is basically no discernible bite point. It feels uniformly smooth the whole way through its throw. You can kind of just dump the thing and it basically works or more gradually release it and listen for the engine to lose revs but it feels more vague than I would like. I am going to have to drive a couple more modern manuals to see if this is common or specific to the i30 but it was a bit off putting.
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Sep 6, 2021 07:57
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Despite my best efforts, I can’t seem to break an average mpg of 24-26 in my FiST. Is this normal? Looking online people seem to be reporting anything from 27-32. It’s a mix of highway/city, different levels of hoonage vs light touch driving don’t seem to really make that much difference. Clutch doesn’t feel like it’s slipping, brakes feel fine/nothing seems to be sticking, etc.
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Sep 6, 2021 14:05
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Ok Comboomer posted:Despite my best efforts, I can’t seem to break an average mpg of 24-26 in my FiST. Gonna go with the basic IT route and ask if you've cleaned/replaced your air filter recently.
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Sep 6, 2021 14:18
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Qmass posted:BUT the clutch is... weird - especially when I highly value the mechanical, manual feel of my older cars clutch. There is basically no discernible bite point. It feels uniformly smooth the whole way through its throw. You can kind of just dump the thing and it basically works or more gradually release it and listen for the engine to lose revs but it feels more vague than I would like. I am going to have to drive a couple more modern manuals to see if this is common or specific to the i30 but it was a bit off putting. I think this is just the norm in newer manual cars. My 2017 Si was exactly like this. Nice and easy in traffic but no feel.
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Sep 6, 2021 15:03
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Night Danger Moose posted:Gonna go with the basic IT route and ask if you've cleaned/replaced your air filter recently. I literally picked up the car two weeks ago and it should have a new filter, I would expect it to have a new filter, but I will check. You’re probably onto something.
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Sep 6, 2021 15:22
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Ok Comboomer posted:Despite my best efforts, I can’t seem to break an average mpg of 24-26 in my FiST. I never got more than 26-27 average from new, but I also never really tried to get any better.
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Sep 6, 2021 15:23
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Ok Comboomer posted:Despite my best efforts, I can’t seem to break an average mpg of 24-26 in my FiST. This sounds pretty normal. For 32 I’d expect that to be a full highway tank on an already warmed up engine. I’ve gotten as high as 27 on my RS in that situation.
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Sep 6, 2021 15:35
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prom candy posted:I think this is just the norm in newer manual cars. My 2017 Si was exactly like this. Nice and easy in traffic but no feel. This is due to either a clutch delay valve (GTI/Civic Si/etc) and/or a clutch assist spring (GTI/BRZ/etc). Pull em and get your normal clutch pedal back.
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Sep 6, 2021 19:36
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I have a 2015 FiST and get 27ish city and 30ish highway. Car has a lot of bolt-ons and an adjustable tune (6psi, 18psi, 22psi) on the stock turbo, I normally drive it around on the 18psi map. Check your air filter and maybe change the spark plugs and see how it does. EDIT: Thinking about this a bit, I have a friend who owned a 2016 FiST. He always got very low 20's, and I would say he drove the car aggressively and had a on/off style of driving with the throttle. It may just be how you're driving it. 4/20 NEVER FORGET fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 02:20
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Ok Comboomer posted:Despite my best efforts, I can’t seem to break an average mpg of 24-26 in my FiST. I have a 2016 and average 26-27, mix of highway and city. I would say I drive "normally." If I do a tank of mostly highway driving I'll get 31-32.
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Sep 7, 2021 05:36
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Have any of the FiST people here done the reverse camera install or anything else that had you running wires in/out of the hatch? I am having a hell of a time getting any cables to pass through the rubber thing. I can get a screwdriver through but nothing too soft to push like a stranded copper cable, and pulling it through isn't working either thanks to the size of the connectors. Normally I'd just go around it, but this seems like an area where not compromising the weather seal would be important.
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Sep 8, 2021 17:04
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wolrah posted:Have any of the FiST people here done the reverse camera install or anything else that had you running wires in/out of the hatch? I am having a hell of a time getting any cables to pass through the rubber thing. I can get a screwdriver through but nothing too soft to push like a stranded copper cable, and pulling it through isn't working either thanks to the size of the connectors. Post a photo of the connectors? With those rubber boots I tend to use mechanics wire, a wire coat hanger or a large zip tie to fish wires through. Pull the boot off, stick your fish tape of choice all the way through the boot to the other side, tape your connector/wire really well to the fish tape, use a little lube and pull it through.
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Sep 8, 2021 19:32
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wolrah posted:Have any of the FiST people here done the reverse camera install or anything else that had you running wires in/out of the hatch? I am having a hell of a time getting any cables to pass through the rubber thing. I can get a screwdriver through but nothing too soft to push like a stranded copper cable, and pulling it through isn't working either thanks to the size of the connectors. How bad is the paint back there?
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Sep 8, 2021 21:44
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Post a photo of the connectors? With those rubber boots I tend to use mechanics wire, a wire coat hanger or a large zip tie to fish wires through. Pull the boot off, stick your fish tape of choice all the way through the boot to the other side, tape your connector/wire really well to the fish tape, use a little lube and pull it through. The reverse camera has a narrow four pin cable coming off it that's too short to leave the hatch, I'm looking for an appropriate extension for that which would make this a lot easier. It's barely larger than the diameter of the cable, where the RCA is almost the same size as the entire rubber connector it needs to go through. Ok Comboomer posted:How bad is the paint back there?
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Sep 8, 2021 23:19
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| # ? May 27, 2024 18:44 |
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wolrah posted:What do you mean by this? Are you suggesting I just drill another hole? I'm up for it if you can suggest a way that doesn't leave it likely to leak or have the wire get pinched up in the hinge. I put NMO mounts for ham radio antennas through my BMW so I'm certainly not afraid of attacking a car with power tools. I mean that Ford notoriously beefed the paint application on pre-2017 FiSTs and mine has a couple of bald spots back there that the PO had clearcoated over. I was curious about yours.
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Sep 9, 2021 00:52
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