Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
becoming
Aug 25, 2004

Ender 3 v2 talk - My bed is warped somewhat significantly and Marlin's Unified Bed Leveling looked fantastic to me, so I decided to get a BL-Touch. Installation was pretty straightforward but I encountered an issue where the printer would not get, or would not correctly interpret, the Z-endstop signal from the BL-Touch and would crash the nozzle into the bed. The first time this happened I was slow to react and it pulled my gantry out of square and gouged my print surface. I spent a dozen hours troubleshooting this before reaching out to the vendor for advice. There is talk of this behavior being a bug in Marlin and there is a documented workaround, but the vendor insisted upon sending a replacement BL-Touch. I installed it last night and have not had a crash after a few-dozen auto-homes. I still don't totally trust it but it looks good so far.

I am running the 15x15 UBL setup, which probed 157 points on my surface. After getting Z-offset dialed in, leveling circles look better than they ever have. With a more uniform bed I don't think I'd bother with the BL-Touch, but with this bed, UBL is kinda sorta feeling like magic.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Javid posted:

If they act like that about it I never ever want to give them money, thanks for the warning

If you're not in an "I've decided already, thanks" headspace you could read the reasons for it and how it works here before deciding how you feel about it: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-mini-now-shipping_31136/ scroll down to the "Firmware" heading.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

The Eyes Have It posted:

If you're not in an "I've decided already, thanks" headspace you could read the reasons for it and how it works here before deciding how you feel about it: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-mini-now-shipping_31136/ scroll down to the "Firmware" heading.

I'll quote it here:

quote:

Several of our customers started discussing the fact that in order to flash a custom firmware into the MINI, you have to physically break a little tab on the mainboard. Breaking this tab allows you to flash an unofficial firmware but also voids your warranty on electronics.

There are several reasons why we decided to go this way: 3D printers aren’t cell phones or tablets. They are mechanical devices with high-temperature parts. And many people got used to flashing any hex firmware files they found on the internet, mainly with the intention of improving their printer’s performance. And while there are proven community firmware out there, there are also many pieces of untested firmware with no guarantees of what they might do. People don’t realize they could burn down their houses this way! Imagine the firmware would disable the printer’s safety measures and increase the temperature of heated parts beyond their limits with the fans off. This is extremely dangerous.



By introducing a physical fuse, the users now have to make a conscious decision before they flash a file found on the internet. By the way, the warranty terms are still the same as before – we never accepted warranty claims on printers that malfunctioned due to a problem caused by an unofficial firmware. Now, you know you’re voiding your warranty beforehand because you have to break the fuse. Another thing is that the MINI is now an internet-connected device, which brings both an increased user comfort along with plenty of security headaches. And we take security very seriously.

So as you can see, this has nothing to do with the printer being open-source. We still publish all the sources on GitHub and you are still free to flash community-made firmware. Also, we plan to launch a community developer program in the upcoming months. You’ll get extra resources from us and in case you break something during development, you will get new parts (no matter whether you broke the “appendix” on the mainboard). We’ll publish more information soon, so stay tuned!

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
I really don't know what to make of this, my printer's cables really get hot during heatup, maybe I should just rework the connector at some point.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

That's a fire hazard.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Wibla posted:

That's a fire hazard.

While I agree that this is poor design, the connector is rated to 120°C, and the cables are silicone insulated and probably rated a lot higher. It's only the cable that reaches that max temperature.

Still, if I am going to entertain ABS printing more often, I'm probably rework this stuff.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


your cable is physically broken

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

What cable is that? The bed heater?

If there is heat of that magnitude appearing in the middle of the cable, it's probably broken internally and creating massive resistance. You need to fix it before the insulation melts off and starts a fire.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Sagebrush posted:

What cable is that? The bed heater?

If there is heat of that magnitude appearing in the middle of the cable, it's probably broken internally and creating massive resistance. You need to fix it before the insulation melts off and starts a fire.

It's the cabple from the PSU to the mainboard with the XT60 connector. It doesn't normally get this hot, but I was printing some ABS and decided to check on it.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

That's a poor connection with high resistance which is causing local hearing. I don't care what temp the cable and connector are rated for, that's a failure occuring while you watch. 168°c Christ that's a fire hazard turn it off

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

cakesmith handyman posted:

That's a poor connection with high resistance which is causing local hearing. I don't care what temp the cable and connector are rated for, that's a failure occuring while you watch. 168°c Christ that's a fire hazard turn it off

Probably a cheap clone XT60. Silicone cables can withstand at least 200C, so it's unlikely to blow up, but you should fix that.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

BMan posted:

your cable is physically broken

Correct

Your copper wire has flexed it's last electron safely, I'd say about three weeks ago

Please replace at your earliest convenience; if your house burns down, please do not commit insurance fraud and delete this image as evidence tampering is not kosher

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Probably a cheap clone XT60. Silicone cables can withstand at least 200C, so it's unlikely to blow up, but you should fix that.

I doubt any Ender 3 uses original XT60s

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Hadlock posted:

Correct

Your copper wire has flexed it's last electron safely, I'd say about three weeks ago

Please replace at your earliest convenience; if your house burns down, please do not commit insurance fraud and delete this image as evidence tampering is not kosher

This is obviously a high resistance path, but this is not a spontaneous failure but probably how this thing has been from the getgo, just now showing more because of the higher current.
I don't know why you guys assume anything is gonna catch fire spontaneously, these aren't unheard of operating temps, just far out of an ideal spec.

E: I tore it down, it's clearly a bad crimp on the negative terminal of the XT60 (aren't these usually soldered on?), there is no runaway condition, it's just not coping with the higher current because it is improperly terminated. Been meaning to redo it anyway, so I don't really mind discovering this now.

SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Sep 8, 2021

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

SEKCobra posted:

This is obviously a high resistance path, but this is not a spontaneous failure but probably how this thing has been from the getgo, just now showing more because of the higher current.
I don't know why you guys assume anything is gonna catch fire spontaneously, these aren't unheard of operating temps, just far out of an ideal spec.

E: I tore it down, it's clearly a bad crimp on the negative terminal of the XT60 (aren't these usually soldered on?), there is no runaway condition, it's just not coping with the higher current because it is improperly terminated. Been meaning to redo it anyway, so I don't really mind discovering this now.

There was a batch of bad XT60 connectors at one point, yours might be from that batch. Creality blamed a vendor of theirs and it did seem to get fixed quickly, however I doubt they tracked down every unit to do a recall because it's Creality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yDp9frWkcg

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

SEKCobra posted:

I really don't know what to make of this, my printer's cables really get hot during heatup, maybe I should just rework the connector at some point.


Max 168,1°C

SEKCobra posted:

While I agree that this is poor design, the connector is rated to 120°C,

SEKCobra posted:

I don't know why you guys assume anything is gonna catch fire spontaneously


SEKCobra posted:

these aren't unheard of operating temps, just far out of an ideal spec.
168° isn't a normal operating temperature for a connector. Maybe if the cable was even hotter. Connectors should be the part with the least resistance in any electric system.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Rexxed posted:

There was a batch of bad XT60 connectors at one point, yours might be from that batch. Creality blamed a vendor of theirs and it did seem to get fixed quickly, however I doubt they tracked down every unit to do a recall because it's Creality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yDp9frWkcg

Yeah I read about that back when I got it and made sure to check the connectors for issues, I have evaluated their temperature before and it was fine, I have however also not printed much besides PLA so far which obviously means I also didn't draw nearly as much power continuously before. Still, why are these even crimped, I didn't know you could crimp this type of connector :v:

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
"A Prusa is totally overkill, and the ender is a better alternative" strikes again.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Last few prints I've done have had this bulge about 10mm up from the bottom:



I've tried googling but haven't had much luck. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm using an Ender 3 Pro and Inland PLA+.

Ghostnuke
Sep 21, 2005

Throw this in a pot, add some broth, a potato? Baby you got a stew going!


something binding up on z axis when it reaches that height?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Elder Postsman posted:

Last few prints I've done have had this bulge about 10mm up from the bottom:



I've tried googling but haven't had much luck. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm using an Ender 3 Pro and Inland PLA+.


Ghostnuke posted:

something binding up on z axis when it reaches that height?

It's pretty much guaranteed to be this. Probably need to clean and then re-lubricate the Z-axis screws and/or the linear guides in that area.

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

Elder Postsman posted:

Last few prints I've done have had this bulge about 10mm up from the bottom:



I've tried googling but haven't had much luck. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm using an Ender 3 Pro and Inland PLA+.

Dirt/Dust/Dents/Boogers on your Z-rails or rollers.

Ghostnuke
Sep 21, 2005

Throw this in a pot, add some broth, a potato? Baby you got a stew going!


holy poo poo these are awesome - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wargname/aliens-vs-humans-stl-set/description

anyone picking these up?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 9 days!

I've got a bunch of Papsikel minis, started with some of his cyberpunk stuff for the Hardwired skirmish game, and I definitely got some of his Aliens stuff via Patreon. Highly recommended.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Ghostnuke posted:

something binding up on z axis when it reaches that height?

biracial bear for uncut posted:

It's pretty much guaranteed to be this. Probably need to clean and then re-lubricate the Z-axis screws and/or the linear guides in that area.

Ok, cool. I'll give that a shot. Thanks y'all!

Ghostnuke
Sep 21, 2005

Throw this in a pot, add some broth, a potato? Baby you got a stew going!


Sydney Bottocks posted:

I've got a bunch of Papsikel minis, started with some of his cyberpunk stuff for the Hardwired skirmish game, and I definitely got some of his Aliens stuff via Patreon. Highly recommended.

ooo let me know if you'd be up for making some for me, I don't have a resin printer and those look baller af

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Seems like prime territory for a cease-and-desist letter if the folks that own the rights to the Aliens/Predators/etc. in those models get a bug up their rear end about it.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Seems like prime territory for a cease-and-desist letter if the folks that own the rights to the Aliens/Predators/etc. in those models get a bug up their rear end about it.

Yeah, it's not like the term "Foxing" wasn't coined because Fox was overly litigious about the Aliens franchise or anything.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Ghostnuke posted:

ooo let me know if you'd be up for making some for me, I don't have a resin printer and those look baller af

I am a papsikels licensed merchant if your are interested - LV427 as well. I can print any of both pf their models even if I dont have them up in the listings yet. Anything you want that you don’t see I’ll add real quick

https://www.mecha.net

Goons get a healthy discount.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

sharkytm posted:

"A Prusa is totally overkill, and the ender is a better alternative" strikes again.

All printers across the board are equally poo poo.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Bucnasti posted:

Yeah, it's not like the term "Foxing" wasn't coined because Fox was overly litigious about the Aliens franchise or anything.

Terms aren't going to catch on just because you claim they're coined, Pierce.

(also "Foxing" is about shoe repair or aging paper)

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Sep 8, 2021

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

insta posted:

All printers across the board are equally poo poo.

All printers are poo poo, some printers are shittier than others. Some are pieces of poo poo that might burn your house down.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


My employer has been approached by a new printer maker, "FabMinds", to develop a phone app. This would be a combination printer store, filament store, 3D model repository and store, printer controller and slicer. It will finally usher in the era of 3d printing for the masses.

lol

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Oh cool, if you failed to lose money investing in MakerBot/Thingverse a decade ago, now's your chance

Make sure you get paid in full up front

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Second print after the test print is looking fine. Could be improved, but it's better than anything I've gotten off my previous two printers.

becoming
Aug 25, 2004

Chainclaw posted:

Second print after the test print is looking fine. Could be improved, but it's better than anything I've gotten off my previous two printers.



Congrats on building your MK3S+, and I hope you feel as though you were given reasonably-accurate advice in this thread.

Prusa maintains a collection of models and gcode on prusaprinters.org and there are some pretty worthwhile items there, including a first layer calibration test that I found very helpful.

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

insta posted:

All printers across the board are equally poo poo.

This should be the thread title.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Chainclaw posted:

Second print after the test print is looking fine. Could be improved, but it's better than anything I've gotten off my previous two printers.



How's your belt tension looking?

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Wibla posted:

How's your belt tension looking?

It seemed pretty good. The instructions for steps like that were pretty vague at what you are going for, but I think I got them correct.

My first long print (8+ hours) has come out great


I'm impressed with that gap, if I had paid attention I would have printed it with supports, but it has no sagging.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Chainclaw posted:

It seemed pretty good. The instructions for steps like that were pretty vague at what you are going for, but I think I got them correct.

I think he's hinting at the horizontal pattern on your prints that looks like belts are too tight.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply