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Mantle posted:I have an AWD Honda Element and I want to do more hunting and backcountry camping with it in BC. It's basically ok on the FSRs but I do get a little concerned about rocks even on the main FSRs. I'd like to be able to go up more of the spurs, but still all on FSR (no off road or rock climbing). Some of the roads I've gone up in my hunting partners pickup seem a bit steep for the Element too. I'm sure there are mods you can do to the element to make it more capable, but ultimately if you are getting into more technical/steep terrain, a transfer case with a low range will be ideal. The vitara would probably do fine, although it might feel cramped compared to the Element. Not sure what your camping set up is like, but something to keep in mind if that is important to you. Vehicle prices are insane right now for toyota/lexus options but one of those might be a better fit for an all around vehicle, budget and other needs depending.
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Aug 9, 2021 15:43
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I'm assuming some animal decided to take a leak on my tire while I was out hiking, not the first time it's happened
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Aug 9, 2021 22:51
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Sounds like the VIAIR 85p isn't going to be ideal, which is too bad because that's what I already have. That 400p with auto-shutoff looks nice, it's just cheaper enough that it's tempting over just going all out on an ARB compressor.
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Aug 10, 2021 03:11
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MomJeans420 posted:Sounds like the VIAIR 85p isn't going to be ideal, which is too bad because that's what I already have. That 400p with auto-shutoff looks nice, it's just cheaper enough that it's tempting over just going all out on an ARB compressor. Look at Slow is Fast post on the last page, my viair 380 runs the balls off an ARB single. Half the cost, too. It also helps that i have a 1.5 gallon tank, so when i'm not filling tires, the pump is still running building air. the time it takes between wheels, checking the pressure, all time you gain when having a storage tank.
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Aug 10, 2021 10:59
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Until about 6 years ago I'd never had more than a cheapo auto parts store compressor that ran off the cig lighter. I probably went through 2 in 10 years. Slow but got the job done until the hoses frayed, etc. But then I sprung for this one that connects directly to the battery with alligator clips - it was like $50 on amazon at the time - and I've been abusing it ever since. The MV-50 air compressor is a rugged direct drive 12-volt, 30 amp air compressor with an outstanding 3500 cubic inches of air flow. (3500 cubic in/min is like 2 CFM) I run 35's-37's and typically go down to 12 psi on the trail and 30 on the road. It gets hot but it's never shut off airing all 4 back up. It looks like it's no longer available, but there's got to be others with similar specs and pricepoint. If I had to spend more than 200 bucks, I'd probably look hard at a CO2 setup.
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Aug 10, 2021 21:11
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Finally got the Subie lifted! Flatout GR Lite suspension that gave me an additional 2" in the front and 2.5" in the rear. Threw on some Grabbers at 225/70 R15 with brand new Method wheels. There was slight rubbing at max cornering, so had to hammer in some pinch welds and now everything is all set! Been taking her on some adventures the last few weeks and I am loving this new setup now.    
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Aug 12, 2021 19:22
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Hell yeah, bronze wheel club! It was hard for the sales guy to convince me but I'm glad I didn't go with plain black wheels. Looks good on your Subie!
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Aug 12, 2021 19:46
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Digging the lifted Subaru chrisgt posted:Look at Slow is Fast post on the last page, my viair 380 runs the balls off an ARB single. Half the cost, too. Alright you guys have me convinced on the VIAIR over the ARB, but I'll have to upgrade past my 85P.
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Aug 13, 2021 21:30
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Nice Subaru. I like to imagine what my vehicle would look like with new wheels before I get the pricing reality check. I’ve used the 400P a few times now to air up from 20 psi to ~35 on 33s. It’s able to easily get through them all within the duty cycle. Just gotta let it cool down before stuffing in the bag. I take that time to wipe mud off the windows/lights. I got it for $165, but that was just before covid and tariff pricing made everything go nuts.
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Aug 13, 2021 22:46
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Vampire Panties posted:Thanks, but I already ordered JBA UCAs. I think I can flip the SPC on Facebook to offset most of the cost. The SPCs just look too thin on the truck. Yeeeeah so about that 'I'll reply by Wednesday July somethingorotherth' that obviously didn't happen. I'm 90% satisfied with my current setup which are Toytec BOSS 2.0s (Bilstein 5100s with badge engineering) paired with 700lbs progressive springs + SPC UCAs. Overall I'm very happy with the solution, but they're getting towards the end of their service life and I'm exploring my options for what is next. For reference this is what I have which was purchased and installed at the very end of 2017:  I'm East Coast so any wheeling happens after a 2-4 hour road trip so I'm looking at a progressive setup. My wheeling time is 70% mild trails and 30% moderate off road park technical trails. No washboards to speak of and even if there were that wouldn't be a thing, the only 'racing' I might end up doing is something like rally sweep on well groomed dirt roads which the current setup excels at. I'm also not looking for a set of racing shocks that needs to be rebuilt every 20k miles so stuff like Icon is out the window. Makes / models in consideration at this time: OME BP51s, Fox Factory Race 2.5s, Toytec 2.5s (which look suspiciously like Fox OEMed them for Toytec)
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Sep 9, 2021 12:16
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Anyone in SOCal have any offroading ideas/areas now that USFS land is shut down? I was learning my fire trails when they closed (and rightfully so). E:. Big babby trails, Im a total amateur.
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Sep 9, 2021 19:08
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Might want to do some research into whether a diff drop even makes sense. I know at least on some Toytoa 120/150 platform vehicles, they do more harm than good: significant reduction in ground clearance for not much change in CV axle angle (which generally aren't even that bad in the first place after a moderate lift). I believe it's Elka that's making the Toytec Boss Aluma series these days. Other shocks to checkout are Dobinsons (popular Australian brand) IMS (for a 2.2" IFP shock) or MRA (for remote reservoir / adjustable). I believe they've been raising their prices recently, but they were (and probably still are) great price-performance options. Lots of people in the GX/LC Prado community have been using them and seem to be very satisfied. From what I gathered talking to vendors, they also tend to last a lot longer before needing to be rebuilt compared to more racing oriented brands like Icon and King. At this point, I'd try to wait until November/black friday deals if you can as you'll probably see some significant savings on whatever you go with.
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Sep 9, 2021 19:55
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Dobbo MRAs look like good value but I'd want to be sure they've solved their alleged QA problems. There was a number of reports of their MRR shocks blowing hoses or fittings which doesn't fill me with confidence.
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Sep 10, 2021 02:50
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Splinter posted:Might want to do some research into whether a diff drop even makes sense. I know at least on some Toytoa 120/150 platform vehicles, they do more harm than good: significant reduction in ground clearance for not much change in CV axle angle (which generally aren't even that bad in the first place after a moderate lift). The diff drop is already installed and besides the skid plate is the lowest hanging bit (as it should be) under the nose. Whether or not it is truly necessary is an open debate, but it isn’t hurting anything so I’ll leave well enough alone. Icons and Kings are off the table for precisely the reason you cited, they have a relatively short service life before needing a rebuild which means dealing with swapping them out and shipping them, etc. As for the Dobinsons I have plenty of friends that went with them and results have been very mixed so I’m wary of them in general. None of this is particularly pressing as the wheeling season is winding down but I do want my ducks in a row to take advantage of the coming holiday sales.
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Sep 10, 2021 04:58
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ili posted:Dobbo MRAs look like good value but I'd want to be sure they've solved their alleged QA problems. There was a number of reports of their MRR shocks blowing hoses or fittings which doesn't fill me with confidence.  . Definitely would've been fine with the IMS (as performance wise they are essentially the same as MRAs if you don't need the extra cooling capacity of the remote reservoirs), but I wanted to be able to swap in stiffer springs as I build out the truck without having to re-valve (and also wanted to be able to dial in the ride, but the default settings were good so I haven't really messed with that much yet). They were also only $2k w/ springs with the black friday sale (though I believe equivalent IMS setup was only around $1100, so really I just hate money). One note about the MRAs is (at least at the time) they didn't have 100% GX specific mounting brackets (e.g. washer fluid reservoir blocks where one of the brackets is supposed to mount -- might have something to do with the differences between US and international Toyota models), so I had to get a bit creative during install (which was annoying and ultimately made the job take a couple hours longer than it otherwise would've). Not sure if that's still the case or if it also applies to Tacos/4runners/FJs.Arishtat posted:The diff drop is already installed and besides the skid plate is the lowest hanging bit (as it should be) under the nose. Whether or not it is truly necessary is an open debate, but it isn’t hurting anything so I’ll leave well enough alone. Arishtat posted:Icons and Kings are off the table for precisely the reason you cited, they have a relatively short service life before needing a rebuild which means dealing with swapping them out and shipping them, etc. With the Doibs, do you know if they were they nitros, IMS or MRR/MRAs? They've been fine thus far on my end, but friends with bad experiences is an understandable reason to go with something else.
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Sep 10, 2021 06:48
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Splinter posted:So far so good with 20k on MRAs on my GX That would have been an issue for 2018 me, but 2021 me has no problem solving the remote reservoir mounting problem if that is even a thing. Splinter posted:But did the diff drop kit not also lower the skid plates in the middle via longer bolts? The issue is since diff drops on these trucks drop the front of the diff, but the axles go in toward the rear of the diff, you only get a fraction of the drop @ the axle (e.g. a 1" drop only drops the axle 0.25" or something like that). Diagram for reference. In other words, if you want to correct CV angle, you actually lose less ground clearance for the same correction just by running less lift in the front. That combined with GXs, 4th gen+ 4Runners and 2nd gen+ Tacos being able to handle a decent amount of lift without making the CV angles too bad is why some say they do more harm than good. Ultimately probably not a huge difference either way if you're not banging rocks a ton. If I were using the OE Toyota or certain model aftermarket skid plates then yes there could be some clearance regained by removing the differential drop, but the way that my skid plates from CBI are mounted (bottom of the core support in the front, the factory skid plate mid mounts, and the transmission crossmember in the rear) means that it fits right around the sway bar and the front diff just barely kisses the top of the plate. These pics that I took to help someone interested in the insert bumper are the closet I have to showing how it's mounted: https://imgur.com/a/nHS8wPk I'm not going to lie it would be nice to get back that inch, but that only really comes into play at the off-road park and only on the more technical trails. My main problem is that when I do go to the park it's usually with a bunch of FJ owners and I occasionally bite off more than I can really chew so to speak:  ...unplanned winch testing due to high centeredness. Splinter posted:FWIW I believe Elka is more of a racing brand too (not that familiar w/ them), though I have to imagine Toytec would ask them to make something more biased to daily driving/longevity. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I have an open email thread with Toytec regarding my options and will ask them who OEMs that model. Splinter posted:With the Doibs, do you know if they were they nitros, IMS or MRR/MRAs? They've been fine thus far on my end, but friends with bad experiences is an understandable reason to go with something else. Unfortunately not but I can query around. My information may also be out of date as I was paying far more attention to other people's suspension when I was shopping for my own back in late 2017.  Out of curiosity what do you tend to use your GX for and do you have any pics handy? Arishtat fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 10, 2021 11:48
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I killed a pair of Dobinson Nitros in 40K kms in my 100 series up front- they're a small shock due to packaging and work really hard, to the point after 10 mins of driving and they came up to temp I had no rebound dampening left at all. The rears just ate lower bushings like a fat kid with a kilo of skittles. I ended up replacing them with Superior Engineering remote res shocks (Made by Profender) and they are phenomonal. $1600 for a set of 4 shipped to my door in Australia (so overpriced like everything compared to the USA) but I've hit washouts at 100kph in the cruiser fully loaded and barely felt them now, when before with either the Dobinson Nitros, Old Man Emu Nitro Sports or Bilstiens i would have left a dent in the roof with my head. I just wish ARB made the BP-51's for the front of the 100. I've driven in a Hilux fitted with them and they are next level shocks.
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Sep 10, 2021 13:26
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Any thoughts on the Bilstein 6112?
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Sep 10, 2021 19:35
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Arishtat posted:That would have been an issue for 2018 me, but 2021 me has no problem solving the remote reservoir mounting problem if that is even a thing. Arishtat posted:Unfortunately not but I can query around. My information may also be out of date as I was paying far more attention to other people's suspension when I was shopping for my own back in late 2017. Most of my offroad driving with the GX has been exploring in the desert as I used to live in small town New Mexico and could be on decent trails within 15 minutes of my house (back in coastal CA now which means hours of driving to get to anything fun  ). So think rocky/gravelly trails, rutted/washed out trails, sandy/rocky washes/creek beds (but not like beach/dune levels of sand), whoops, washboard dirt roads, some rocky canyons. Almost no mud as even when it rains/snows everything dries very quickly. Nothing too technical IMO and in particular was avoiding anything approaching serious rock crawling as I was often out alone (with no winch) and also wanted better armor (still running stock skids). My experience after going to MRAs from twin tubes was similar to Ferremit: they handle rough terrain much better, especially with weight & speed, and even in spots where I'd slow to a crawl, everything was just smoother/more comfortable especially on bigger drops. Had some more experience offroaders also make similar comments on how well they handled when they were riding with me. I think this has a lot to do with the benefits of a decent monotube shock over cheap twin tubes, regardless of brand.
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Sep 10, 2021 23:57
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I'm looking at G460 suspension options and so far the Dobinsons are in the lead. Probably the MRR as a cry once kind of thing. I haven't seen too many bad stories regarding them, and they seem more reasonable than a higher end shock with more frequent rebuild intervals. I'm probably buying a Ducati first though as I only have a non-working project bike at the moment, and having a bike is more important than getting offroad for me right now. Although my insurance payout from my totaled bike would also cover wheels + tires + suspension for the GX...
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Sep 11, 2021 21:51
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Arishtat posted:Yeeeeah so about that 'I'll reply by Wednesday July somethingorotherth' that obviously didn't happen. Haha no problem, I ended up canceling the JBA order anyway. If the SPCs break than I'll replace them, but I'm done messing with the suspension on this truck. I have Fox Factory 2.5 with remote reservoir and DSC clickers and they're amazing. I had the same considerations - anywhere (legal) off-road is hours of driving away. Also the freeways in socal are worse than some dirt roads. Washboards are totally A Thing out here, though, which drove the remote reservoir upgrade. If you do go with Fox, I'd highly recommend the DSC clickers; being able to adjust the fast/slow rebound compression on the fly is just great. I didn't think I would mess with them once I got them dialed in, but it's easier than locking a hub or airing down a tire, and there are noticeable results between each click. Specifically, I'll stiffen the slow rebound and soften the fast rebound all the way down for freeway rides (to soak up smaller bumps / uneven payment) but i'll flip the settings when I get into the desert (to keep control through the washboards and soak up the bigger dips). I seem to hit the bumpstops frequently at freeway speeds, so I upgraded those as well  I researched OME BP51 before choosing Fox. Sourcing the BP51s at the time of purchase was tough, and I read that people were needing to get them serviced absurdly quickly. From my very limited understanding, they are more like King in terms of performance, service intervals, and reliability. That was all Tacomaworld  , for whatever that's worth. I almost certainly would've gone with the Bilstein b8000 If they had been available, but I don't know if those actually exist for sale right now. A friend of mine told me that Bilstein was hit hard by the covid supply shortages, and they decided to double down on 5100/6100s production instead of fully running the b8 line. FogHelmut posted:Any thoughts on the Bilstein 6112? I can't speak to 6112 specifically, but I had 5100s on my JKU before my current Tacoma. They were fantastic and it's my understanding that the 6112 is effectively a bigger beefier version of the same shock. IMO they're the best non-rebuildable shock you can get.
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Sep 13, 2021 04:46
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The CRI of LED Off-Road Lights There seems to be a dearth of realtalk about the CRI of off-road lighting, with even manufactures who make quality products refusing to disclose this, arguably-most-important specification of any LED light system. Now, I know there are ~BRANDS~ like KC, etc. who's highly-regarded position in the marketplace mean they are expected to produce a quality product for the extreme premium they charge, just as there are the shifting-sands of rebrands from bottom-of-the-barrel manufactures. Furthermore, it should come as no surprise that the low-buck lights make everything look like a monochrome hell-scape, with high-buck lights looking at the least half-way decent if not downright good. However, even in reviews and literature that I can find, this difference (when it is mentioned at all) is relegated to subjective editorializing such as "X looks (better/more natural/clearer) than Y", even though there is an industry standard which quantizes this: Color Rendering Index (CRI) CRI is basically a number up to 100 which tries to convey how well a light source will reproduce the spectrum of daylight, and consequently how closely the color of objects viewed in that light will be to the color which would be observed under a black-body light source like direct sunlight or a halogen bulb. A CRI of 100 would be the same as a black-body emitter. A really good CRI for LEDs is over 90; a great score is 95+; a standard LED is given by wikipedia as 83, and I suspect a lot of low-quality LEDS are in the 70's or worse (i.e. they look like poo poo). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index I've been trying to shop for a set of lights, and I'm at my wit's end (it was a short trip). Add to the fact that I hate (HATE) shopping for poo poo (HATE!) precisely because of poo poo like this where an entire industry has obfuscated their products so as to mislead consumers (HATE!). What I would like to know from the goon collective knowledge-base is where can I go to get information about the CRI of ANY light-bar or light-pod (whatever-you-wanna-call-them) for off-road (meaning in a housing rated at least IP67). Please chime in with your faves, rants, and lovely opinions about the state of off-road LED lighting.
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Sep 13, 2021 23:53
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I too am shopping for lights because the headlights on my 2008 tundra are a turbofoggy mess of absolutely dogshit visibility and polishing them seems like a futile effort
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Sep 13, 2021 23:56
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Vampire Panties posted:Haha no problem, I ended up canceling the JBA order anyway. If the SPCs break than I'll replace them, but I'm done messing with the suspension on this truck. Yeah for the price, I think I'd rather go with the 6112 than the Fox 2.0. Going to the next level up seems to double the cost, and I'm not interested in that. Just trying to have a nicer ride both on and off road, and the 6112 seems to fit the bill. And despite the rebuildability of the Fox, the service life the Bilstein should last as long as I keep this truck. I do plan using them to lift 2". I don't think I'll need to add control arms or diff drops or anything else for that, but probably will need the sway bar relocation brackets. Only other thing is to add a leaf or blocks for the rear. I don't want to harsh the ride, and I don't think a 1" to 2" block is going to give me any trouble with stability or axle wrap for such a small block. Definitely do not want to spend on a whole new set of leaf springs - unless that's entirely worth it. I think ultimately just less body roll on the street and less jostling on speed bumps and dirt roads is what I'm after. This is a 2019 Chevy Colorado for reference.
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Sep 14, 2021 00:28
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If you can find out what LED they are using you can find out CRI from the LED manufacturer datasheet. Or if it's ambiguous a range at least. If there isn't solid data on parts you can try to figure it out from photos and specs. Each led family looks different if you have a good enough pic. Brand and family is enough to tell you if it is crap or not at least.
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Sep 14, 2021 09:56
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emf posted:
I found this thread and rigid industries doesn't even know what their CRI is - https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/rigid-dot-selective-yellow-fog-lamps.456564/ Edit - this post is informational https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/offroad-driving-lights-recommendations.447838/post-5215356 Doesn't look good. It's a shame because a lot of the LED manufacturers and buyers seem to think that the point of them is to let other people know that you have LEDs. The energy efficiency and light distribution is merely a side effect. I personally I like the warmer colors of traditional halogens, and would love if the LEDs were more common in those temperatures. I'm not sure if it's because it's what I'm used to, or because I read on Daniel Stern lighting that the warmer colors are actually better for night vision than the ultra whites and ice blues. Also, I hate all the Tacomas around here driving around in the daytime with the yellow LED fog lights turned on and aimed into my eyeballs. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 15:18
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Count me in as "interested in high-CRI lighting" because I admit I'd never even considered that with my lighting until I skimmed through this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMKG0z12Pyc Now, not nearly enough to spend $2k on KC lights, but I've got to imagine there's an option out there that has a good CRI without costing $Texas.
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Sep 14, 2021 16:53
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Those $90 light kits are assembled from available components. I guess you could source good LEDs and build your own. Still might have issues with throw and spread.
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 16:58
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Bloody posted:I too am shopping for lights because the headlights on my 2008 tundra are a turbofoggy mess of absolutely dogshit visibility and polishing them seems like a futile effort taqueso posted:If you can find out what LED they are using you can find out CRI from the LED manufacturer datasheet. Or if it's ambiguous a range at least. If there isn't solid data on parts you can try to figure it out from photos and specs. Each led family looks different if you have a good enough pic. Brand and family is enough to tell you if it is crap or not at least. FogHelmut posted:I found this thread and rigid industries doesn't even know what their CRI is - https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/rigid-dot-selective-yellow-fog-lamps.456564/ FogHelmut posted:
FogHelmut posted:It's a shame because a lot of the LED manufacturers and buyers seem to think that the point of them is to let other people know that you have LEDs. The energy efficiency and light distribution is merely a side effect. As for LED conversion bulbs in an incandescent housing (a route I'm considering taking for good light now with upgradability as LEDs improve) I found this pretty decent database and review site: https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/recommended/ and if you scroll ALL the way down, their listing for Forumula J87 G8 bulbs claim a CCT of 4450K, which (if paired with a great CRI and if they were available anywhere) would be dreamy. FogHelmut posted:Also, I hate all the Tacomas around here driving around in the daytime with the yellow LED fog lights turned on and aimed into my eyeballs. IOwnCalculus posted:Count me in as "interested in high-CRI lighting" because I admit I'd never even considered that with my lighting until I skimmed through this: FogHelmut posted:Those $90 light kits are assembled from available components. I guess you could source good LEDs and build your own. Still might have issues with throw and spread.
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Sep 14, 2021 18:26
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Maybe this should be in the terrible car stuff thread but I'm Kern County and I've never seen so many lifted vehicles with huge wheels and low profile tires. I'd say 9 out 10 lifted vehicles I come across look like they'd dent their wheel from a small pothole. I know it's a thing people do but I'm just surprised that the lifted trucks that can't go offroad far outnumber the ones that could. All the Jeeps look ready to go though.
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Sep 14, 2021 22:54
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MomJeans420 posted:Maybe this should be in the terrible car stuff thread but I'm Kern County and I've never seen so many lifted vehicles with huge wheels and low profile tires. I'd say 9 out 10 lifted vehicles I come across look like they'd dent their wheel from a small pothole. I know it's a thing people do but I'm just surprised that the lifted trucks that can't go offroad far outnumber the ones that could. Ya that's a central Cali thing IIRC.
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Sep 14, 2021 23:05
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Yeah, as soon as you get past LA going north, maybe around Oxnard it starts. Super tall lifts with surprisingly normal height rims, but very wide low profile tires. On the other hand, the fake trophy truck thing seems to not be as popular as it used to be down here. Super big front suspension with extra wide stance and "I'm saving up to put a long travel on the rear" but still managed to mount two full size spares in the bed. I think they all got into overlanding / carrying a rooftop tent around 365 days a year while they commute to work.
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Sep 14, 2021 23:48
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Chicago region has the same problem. Lots of Jeeps with very angry grills, probably pissed off there's a little bit of dust on the undercarriage. I assume all urban areas have mall crawlers.
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Sep 15, 2021 00:05
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FogHelmut posted:I think they all got into overlanding / carrying a rooftop tent around 365 days a year while they commute to work. Going to need all these rotopax fuel cans bolted everywhere to make it to  I've done the Geology Tour road in J-Tree twice and I'll never be caught off guard again
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Sep 15, 2021 05:21
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FogHelmut posted:I think they all got into overlanding / carrying a rooftop tent around 365 days a year while they commute to work. Yeah, it's shifted that way here too and I do not understand these people. I can't even tolerate the fuel economy, handling, and wind noise from my roof basket (which has a decent fairing) day-to-day, and yet there are people driving around 24/7 with entire rooftop tents strapped on, UV exposure slowly beating $2000 to poo poo. At the other end of the spectrum, a couple weeks ago I ran into a Porsche Cayenne, covered in mud, with a rooftop tent, some Rotopaxes, and Goodrich MTs. It was the most bonkers thing I've seen recently, but I couldn't not respect it. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Sep 15, 2021 |
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Sep 15, 2021 17:31
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Molten Llama posted:Yeah, it's shifted that way here too and I do not understand these people. I can't even tolerate the fuel economy, handling, and wind noise from my roof basket (which has a decent fairing) day-to-day, and yet there are people driving around 24/7 with entire rooftop tents strapped on, UV exposure slowly beating $2000 to poo poo. Same, almost makes me want to get airbags so I can ride low for daily driving aero and ride high for offroad.
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Sep 15, 2021 18:27
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FogHelmut posted:Yeah, as soon as you get past LA going north, maybe around Oxnard it starts. Super tall lifts with surprisingly normal height rims, but very wide low profile tires. The high front low rear thing is intentional, apparently they call it "Cali Lean". I helped my brother install a 3" lift on his Tacoma and none of the meatheads he works with could understand why the truck sat level ( slightly higher in the rear unloaded, actually) or why he spent so much money on new arms to give him the correct range of alignment.
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Sep 15, 2021 19:30
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The weird thing with the lifted trucks and low profile tires is it's not just young guys in the 20s, I see people up in my neighborhood up here who look like they're in their 50s and still have it. I just don't see the point of spending the time and money to raise the truck if you're going to do that, other than it looks "cool," which I guess is good enough reason (see stanced VWs for example). I was going to say what happens to a reverse rake truck when you put something in the bed but then realized that was a stupid question because that scenario isn't happening.
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Sep 15, 2021 20:51
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The Cali lean thing is literally the same as tilty wheel bullshit but for a different motorsport. Tilty wheel bullshit is car guys who apply cargo cult methods to lowered track cars with extra camber for track handling, Cali lean is truck guys who apply cargo cult methods to Baja/desert racing trucks which often have a ton of front travel (and a little more height, or fenders that give the appearance of more height) and not as much in the rear because they're built to do 100+ across dunes and washboards. If some extra is better than literally as much extra as you possibly can must be even better, right?
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Sep 15, 2021 22:25
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| # ? May 24, 2024 05:41 |
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I just want to point out that Cali Lean and Carolina Squat are two very different things.
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Sep 15, 2021 23:19
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