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InternetJunky posted:Also, what do you mean by "curing prints under water"? When the first wave of cheap MSLA printers came out (2019?) it was common practice to UV cure cleaned prints in water, due to the belief that oxygen inhibited the curing process. Still how I do it though it seems that everyone has moved on from that.
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Sep 11, 2021 15:06
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Serenade posted:I want to combine pairs 3d models, what is the easiest way to repeatably do that? Your slicer should have an export as STL option. As an example, in lychee, place the files where you want and make sure they overlap somewhat. Scale as needed. Select them both then Export Selected as an STL. Viola!
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Sep 11, 2021 15:07
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The jupiter kickstarter is live right now.
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Sep 11, 2021 15:14
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InternetJunky posted:The jupiter kickstarter is live right now. I still can't decide if a LARGE format printer like this is useful. Feels like a massive liability to fix over just running a few Saturn's. I've had maybe 1 time where the print volume would have been handy, and frankly I don't know if now's the time to be buying a new resin printer while chitu's trying to lock everything down Like maybe this thing would be good if you were printing props or whatever, but I feel like at that point your better off scratchbuilding or just using FDM w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Sep 11, 2021 |
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Sep 11, 2021 16:33
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I'm interested in what your favorite prints so far are. I am really getting into solving small everyday issues with my printer and would love to see things others have come up with.
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Sep 11, 2021 20:29
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Bodanarko posted:When the first wave of cheap MSLA printers came out (2019?) it was common practice to UV cure cleaned prints in water, due to the belief that oxygen inhibited the curing process. Still how I do it though it seems that everyone has moved on from that. Siraya still recommends this for many of their resins, while specifically forbidding it for a handful of others. IME it 100% eliminates the atmospheric oxygen scavenging problems that cause tacky prints / partial curing, and generally helps a lot with quality control, so i default to it unless i have a good reason to do otherwise. The exact compositions of resins are critical trade secrets for these companies, so i’m shooting from the hip here, but i get the impression that modern “fast/easy” formulations have some component that carries its own curing issues when in contact with water that offset the scavenging issue advantages- ST says prints using its Fast resin need to be 100% dry when UV curing or unsightly surface defects will result. Blu and Sculpt Ultra, meanwhile, have warping and tackiness issues almost half the time when water curing isn’t used, ime. in principle, using a shielding gas instead of water for curing would be ideal, never seen anybody attempt it, though.
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Sep 11, 2021 20:52
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Looking forward to hooking up a TIG gas gun to your curing station 
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Sep 11, 2021 22:35
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I finally got around to hooking up my printer, an XYZ Da Vinci Mini I received a couple of years ago. The filament is limited by NFC chips in the spools but apparently using a third-party slicer will just ignore that. XYZ kind of supports Cura so I've been trying to get that running. My first print in Cura looked like it was moving right but the filament never quite touched the bed. I know there are a bunch of settings I need to copy over but my main question is how to get automatic bed leveling working. The printer has a manually deployed probe and I can find references to that here and there but no way to actually use it. Are there slicers that use the leveling probe or do I have to use gcode? How do I query settings with gcode? I can connect with a serial terminal, but the only response I get is "ok ok" as soon as I type G or M, no matter what speed I set it to. I've tried the command senders in Cura and Repetier but they won't return any information for commands like M420 or M503. G28 moves axes to zero but G29 does nothing. The only response I've seen is for M105, which Repetier sends every few seconds to query temperatures. Most of the functionality in those slicers seems to work so I don't understand why I can't get much information back.
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Sep 12, 2021 04:11
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I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but there's no particular reason to choose one resin printer over another aside from resolution and bed size, right? Are there any known dogs out there right now? About to start a kind of long-term printing project and I want a second, relatively cheap printer so I have a reasonable chance of finishing this in the next six months. Probably just going to end up getting a Mars 2 since my other printer is 2k and I can't see any good reason to do half my prints in higher quality.
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Sep 12, 2021 04:25
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w00tmonger posted:I still can't decide if a LARGE format printer like this is useful. Feels like a massive liability to fix over just running a few Saturn's. Paradoxish posted:I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but there's no particular reason to choose one resin printer over another aside from resolution and bed size, right? Are there any known dogs out there right now?
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Sep 12, 2021 04:41
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What is everyone's experience using alignment pins to precisely align two parts together for gluing I saw one guy on Reddit using 2mm pins to align a medium sized objects together with no load on them. My experience with negative space tends to have excess filament in it; not sure if you should budget 0.1, 0.2mm for the pin or what My print is a bit larger, was thinking of using 3mm dowel + 3.2mm holes, since I can't really hammer the doweling in
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Sep 12, 2021 08:25
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Draw and print a bunch of calibration pieces with different size holes in different planes?
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Sep 12, 2021 08:35
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As a very general rule I leave 0.25mm between parts for a tight (but not binding) fit, and 0.5mm for a sliding fit. The exact values will depend heavily on your printer, the filament you use, and the geometry and print orientation of the mating pieces.
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Sep 12, 2021 08:38
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0.05 for a press fit, 0.1 for regular. ABS/ASA I may have to go to 0.15 as it can contract a bit more.
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Sep 12, 2021 08:46
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Any tips on storing the PLA reel I'm actively using on a day-to-day basis ? I've read its best to keep an opened but current unused spool in a vacuum bag with a desiccant pack, but whats recommended for a spool I'm using for few hours every day ? Should I be promptly bagging it every night when I finish printing ? I'm in the middle the of UK so no air-conditioning and just average humidity.
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Sep 12, 2021 14:17
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Trying to print some ABS in a space blanket 'enclosure' and it appears my Petsfang has split and melted. No idea what happened there, will have to examine once the printer stops, for now I have ziptied it to the gantry.
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Sep 12, 2021 14:23
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Baconroll posted:Any tips on storing the PLA reel I'm actively using on a day-to-day basis ? I've read its best to keep an opened but current unused spool in a vacuum bag with a desiccant pack, but whats recommended for a spool I'm using for few hours every day ? I bought 1kg of silica pearls - the orange ones, not the blue ones because cancer - for ~15 bucks. They get a much darker color when they are full with water and can be regenerated in an oven or your filament dryer. Also bought these bags: https://www.amazon.com/Hopttreely-Premium-Drawstring-Festival-Bathroom/dp/B078249Y7C Then took some plastic boxes and put rubber seals into the lid. Walla, drybox.
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Sep 12, 2021 14:56
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SEKCobra posted:Trying to print some ABS in a space blanket 'enclosure' and it appears my Petsfang has split and melted. No idea what happened there, will have to examine once the printer stops, for now I have ziptied it to the gantry. what material is the petsfang? if it's not ABS and your printing at ABS temps, it probably got too hot.
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Sep 12, 2021 15:01
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Dr Sun Try posted:what material is the petsfang? if it's not ABS and your printing at ABS temps, it probably got too hot. Yeah it's PLA, it's just funny that it seems to have split at the layer lines on the left mount and is just kinda "rubbery" on the right. Probably is related to the airflow around the hotend. I am expecting that I will have to renew it fully after this print, but I did not anticipate it to fail so catastrophically right at the start.
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Sep 12, 2021 15:07
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While I wouldn’t discourage doing dry storage for PLA (I’ve been meaning to setup a dry box myself) - I, like many others in the thread, can anecdotally tell you that I’ve had multiple reels out for months without issue or noticeable difference. BUT - my workspace is pretty dry. It’s at work, in an air conditioned office inside of a wood shop. The AC and the wood dust keep the humidity at like 50% most of the time.
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Sep 12, 2021 15:19
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I think that the amount of time a roll of PLA can stay out in the open without getting waterlogged depends largely on the universe's sense of humor and not much else. I've had some rolls go brittle inside of a week, and other stuff has sat out for months with no issues. I did recently pick up one of Sovol's little two-roll dryer boxes though, and while it's not like I didn't believe in the process or anything, seeing a spool actually come back from the dead is kind of magical. Should have bought or rigged something up years ago.
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Sep 12, 2021 15:34
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I've got a cheapo dryer that's also supposed to work as a spool holder. The holding part doesn't work, but the drying bit seems to do just fine. Has a nice timer that gradually ramps it up from ambient to 50+C. I need to take some of my old silica packets and line the bottom of it.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:07
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Gallon ziplock freezer bags work great for filament spools. No need to buy fancy bags unless you want to be able to vacuum out the air. I have a small keyboard vacuum for that though.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:52
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Hadlock posted:What is everyone's experience using alignment pins to precisely align two parts together for gluing These are generally designed for achieving a running fit on reamed holes, but get you some metric undersized dowel pins. They come in handy a lot more often than you might think. https://www.mcmaster.com/dowel-pins/undersized-dowel-pins/
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Sep 12, 2021 16:54
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I have sometimes used 6mm airsoft BBs as "alignment pegs" because they're cheap, consistent size, can be embedded in the print and no one cares, and most importantly: the two halves can be modeled with a 6mm hemisphere in each instead of a hole in one side and an awkward peg in the other side that inevitably causes print headaches due to its location.
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Sep 12, 2021 17:48
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The Eyes Have It posted:I have sometimes used 6mm airsoft BBs as "alignment pegs" because they're cheap, consistent size, can be embedded in the print and no one cares, and most importantly: the two halves can be modeled with a 6mm hemisphere in each instead of a hole in one side and an awkward peg in the other side that inevitably causes print headaches due to its location. Thats a cool idea, i think i'll steal that.
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Sep 12, 2021 17:50
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It's not perfect, but can come in handy. The main drawback is that the BBs are rigid and a 6mm hemisphere isn't compliant, so you either have a slightly oversized hole (which means a little alignment wiggle room) or you commit to trial and erroring a Goldilocks size of hole. (If the hole is too small the pieces don't fit completely together.) One day I'll design a hole with some kind of crush fit thingie to address these issues but 
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Sep 12, 2021 18:18
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I am just really laughing my rear end off after unsealing my ender 3 after this 6 hour print, maybe you shouldn't use PLA parts inside a heated chamber. Almost all upgrades I have printed have drooped or given out in some way. It's pretty funny. Guess I'll reprint it all in ABS and use that time to get familiar with the material properties some more. Also, dealing with ABS looks like it's basically gonna be starting to print all over, I see a lot of failures and few successes in my future. I'd pay extra to get something as temperature stable as ABS, but printable like PLA.
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Sep 12, 2021 20:49
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How about petg? Or would that not be heat resistant enough?
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Sep 12, 2021 21:02
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I've never printed ABS, just used PETG in any application that needed slightly higher heat tolerance than PLA. That being said, I'm pretty sure a lot of PLA+ spools are a blend of ABS and PLA (obviously this varies a lot from manufacturer to manufacturer). Maybe look there? EDIT: also for what it's worth, all my PETG car stuff has survived the Texas summer sun in my car just fine, which has gotta be hotter than a heated chamber. Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 21:06
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For those looking to dip your toes or buy a 2nd machine, you can currently find the Ender 3 V2 for $237 on Amazon on one of their limited deals. I picked one one of those and 2 more that I found for $249 and a fist full of upgrades to add to my fleet. Going to redo the spare bedroom into a larger print room to accommodate all 8 of my machines. What have I done?! 
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Sep 12, 2021 21:21
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SEKCobra posted:Also, dealing with ABS looks like it's basically gonna be starting to print all over, I see a lot of failures and few successes in my future. I'd pay extra to get something as temperature stable as ABS, but printable like PLA.
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Sep 12, 2021 21:38
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When would you typically choose abs over petg? For my basic functional parts petg has always been good enough and quite low hassle (aside from the stringing, though that's partially my fault for not keeping it properly dry) but I have kind of wondered what I'm missing with abs. It's one thing to see bullet points on a site or whatever, but I'm curious about people's real-world decision making.
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Sep 12, 2021 21:54
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Prusa switched all their printer parts from ABS to PETG except the fan duct
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Sep 12, 2021 21:59
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Scarodactyl posted:When would you typically choose abs over petg? For my basic functional parts petg has always been good enough and quite low hassle (aside from the stringing, though that's partially my fault for not keeping it properly dry) but I have kind of wondered what I'm missing with abs. It's one thing to see bullet points on a site or whatever, but I'm curious about people's real-world decision making. PETG flexes more so you might want ABS on applications where the increased rigidity is desirable. And ABS has better options for post-processing. (I’ve never felt a need to print anything in ABS.)
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Sep 12, 2021 22:03
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The Eyes Have It posted:hole in one side and an awkward peg in the other side that inevitably causes print headaches due to its location. I do this with small cuts of filament. Then you just need a tiny little round hole you glue it into one side of
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Sep 12, 2021 22:07
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I suspect ABS is the new-again old hotness because of Voron builds. They very specifically tell you not to use PETG. CF Nylon apparently starts to creep enough under load to give serious issues after a while, and PC is at least anecdotally bad though I haven't seen specifics of why. I'm about halfway through the process of printing the parts for a Voron 2.4 build and I've already had more failures with ABS/ABS+ in the last week than I think I have had the entire time printing everything else in the last two years (mostly PETG and Priline CF-PC which I suspect is a PC-ABS blend). First layer adhesion issues mostly, including a really annoying creep on first layer heights that I think is due to the new build enclosure warming things just enough that something has started coming loose. Despite obsessive build platform cleaning I've finally decided to admit defeat and just use a layer of glue stick.
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Sep 12, 2021 22:16
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Scarodactyl posted:When would you typically choose abs over petg? For my basic functional parts petg has always been good enough and quite low hassle (aside from the stringing, though that's partially my fault for not keeping it properly dry) but I have kind of wondered what I'm missing with abs. It's one thing to see bullet points on a site or whatever, but I'm curious about people's real-world decision making. Unless you're after the post print treating or the higher heat handling, PETG is fine generally. ABS also has differing elongation and flex behaviours, the reality is most of us don't care. If I need something stronger, ABS is my go to, but only because I can't be bothered dealing with the rare strings of PETG and I was given tens of kg of ABS. The Voron community is full of people trying parts in other materials, and there are many stories of these printers subsequently failing due to heat or stress fractures. ABS sits in that sweet spot for that particular task.
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Sep 12, 2021 22:17
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Hamburlgar posted:For those looking to dip your toes or buy a 2nd machine, you can currently find the Ender 3 V2 for $237 on Amazon on one of their limited deals. Looking forward to the post in about three months when the DEA kicks in your door with a warrant looking for an illegal grow operation, only to find a questionably legal Warhammer20k figurine print farm instead NewFatMike posted:These are generally designed for achieving a running fit on reamed holes, but get you some metric undersized dowel pins. They come in handy a lot more often than you might think. holy poo poo, mcmaster-carr really does sell everything, don't they Is there a magic commercial account that I can sign up for you get a discount, or are they just wildly expensive because "you get what you pay for and we're an aerospace supplier"
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Sep 12, 2021 22:37
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The value of McMaster carr is not in the prices. It's in 'our engineers can order what they want without spending hours ($$$) trying to find it, and it will likely be here tomorrow by lunch'
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Sep 12, 2021 22:47
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