|
Doctor Zero posted:There's really no king of the hill. Each of the major manufacturers are in an arms race to be the first out the door with the latest upgrade to the technology. It's going to be evolving rapidly over the next few years. Guest2553 fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Sep 14, 2021 |
#
?
Sep 14, 2021 23:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 00:06 |
|
|
Are any of these $9 filament deals for less than like, ten frigging rolls? Having to spend $90 a pop is directly counterproductive to the goal of "cheap pla" when I've gone through like four rolls in the last eight months
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2021 23:37
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:I hope it doesn't take long for larger DLP printers to become available. That Ultra just has too small a build area for me to justify replacing my Mars 2. The 4K printers came out less than a year ago, so yeah, I doubt big ones are far behind.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2021 23:46
|
|
|
I still want to see a consumer level DLP printer in front of real users before I rush out to buy one. Frankly the current tech is great and things like print times seem to get really closed over when comparing DLP to current (msla?) Printers
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2021 23:50
|
|
|
GonadTheBallbarian posted:My ender 3v2 is a failure factory and I've finally had it. Junking this POS for parts and saving up for a prusa. Genuinely curious, how many hours did you get out of it before you gave up I've had mine since April, I'd guess I have 20 hr/week print time on it, so that comes out to about 400 hours total print time. About 1 in 3 prints I need to restart due to bed adhesion within the first 90 seconds but otherwise, printing PLA at least, seems to be working fine for me. I'm curious if I start running into reliability problems at the 1000 hour mark, although my guess is that the servos are rated for 8000-10,000 hrs
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2021 23:51
|
|
|
I've been using an o.g. ender 3 with a few upgraded parts for 18 months with pretty regular though not super intensive activity.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2021 23:55
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:I hope it doesn't take long for larger DLP printers to become available. That Ultra just has too small a build area for me to justify replacing my Mars 2. I wouldn't hold my breath for things getting much bigger than the current-gen Big Boys, or at least not for a hobbyist-friendly implementation. DLP x/y form-factors are unique in being a direct reflection of, and tightly constrained by, the mass-production of ultrahigh-DPI displays for phones, and I just don't see larger screen form-factors becoming popular enough in consumer electronics to bring that sweet sweet economy of scale hobbyists crave. I know this has changed a fair bit in the past year or two and manufacturers aren't at the same mercy of phone hardware selection as they were when the first crop of really mature hobbyist DLP printers were being designed, but i don't think the underlying dynamic of "shockingly-cheap phone displays are effectively subsidizing hobbyist resin printers" has changed significantly. getting stupid with the z-axis, though? that's more or less as simple as just using longer linear ways in a cartesian FDM printer to get a bigger print area, which is an addressable engineering challenge instead of an untouchable global-markets-level one. i'd definitely like to see more z-axis silliness, mallsword and fancy cane-specialized printers or something, in large part b/c it's cheap and achievable using the parts manufacturers have already sourced cheap and in volume Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Sep 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 00:11
|
|
|
Now I want to see a six axis robot arm moving the buildplate from a resin machine so it can print a huge spiral
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 00:30
|
|
|
The Eyes Have It posted:The instant a Prusa with toolchanging / true multi-material goes on sale or preorder or whatever I am mashing BUY so hard I'm going to need a finger splint. I'm hoping to pick up some fancy printers, new job willing, and I'm awfully tempted to set up a huge sized Voron 2.4 with an E3D tool changer for large carbon fiber prints with PVA supports. If Prusa beats me to the punch, hell frigging yeah
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 01:37
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Anycubic DLP KS is up. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 01:43
|
|
|
Is there anything out there like a cleaning station for resin with an active filter? There'd be a market for some "rechargeable" alcohol solution where you could just pull out a screen every week instead of swappi g the liquid as often
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 01:52
|
|
|
Ender 3 v2 talk - I got a week of flawless printing after my replacement BL-Touch arrived (Unified Bed Leveling is awesome if your bed is significantly warped), but then I started getting enormous layer shifts - 20-30mm and sometimes more - which was pretty clearly an issue with the gantry. I didn't have time to really dig into it until yesterday, when I tried tensioning and re-tensioning the belt with no appreciable difference. I finally caught it happening while I was in the room and after a bit more playing around was able to reproduce a skipping/shuddering along the X-axis. I wound up taking the entire X-axis/gantry apart and re-building it, and it's now printing well again. I can't say with any real certainty but I suspect the eccentric nut on the hot end trolley was a smidge too tight. I loosened it a bit during reassembly and that's the only thing I knowingly changed, though the act of disassembling and reassembling introduced other variables. It's working now and I'm hopeful that I'm getting this thing relatively close to "reliable". Delta printer talk - anyone else developed a fondness for these? I started looking at them a few months ago and mostly thought "wow those are neat, but I think I'm gonna get an Ender instead"; then I started lusting hard after an FLSun Super Racer. Some time in the middle of August, Monoprice ran a sale on their Mini Delta v2; Amazon beat it by a few bucks and I thought "this will scratch the delta itch". Amazon sent me a v1 instead of a v2 but I'd kinda sorta been hoping they would as community support for the v1 is fantastic. It's been a blast, especially after I got mpmd_marlin installed on it. I've done a few of the must-do mods on it (bigger power supply, better bed clips, feet, trash shields) and this thing has been a real winner, especially for quickly cranking out smaller parts and low-poly Pokémon for the kiddos. I'd had it for about a week when I found a deal on a Super Racer and I'm dumb, okay? I think these are just terribly neat. I'm running Klipper on the Super Racer with mostly good results, though the "mostly" of that sentence has nothing to do with Klipper and everything to do with still figuring out my Cura profile and temperatures with the Volcano hotend (it's stringy). Anyway, delta printers are a hell of a lot of fun, the Monoprice Mini Delta v1 has an incredible community around it, and the Super Racer is taller than your house.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 02:14
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Genuinely curious, how many hours did you get out of it before you gave up About 1k hours. At first failures were few and far between (that weren't my fault, anyway). But over time the ratio of failures to success swang wildly the opposite direction. Octoprint helped, but only for a while. I printed both PLA and PETG, and PLA was way easier until the bed warped. Crappier PLA tended to clog the hot end like it was its job. PETG is fine, but it's a colossal pain in the rear end to dial in the right bed settings from print to print even with the upgraded springs. Painter's tape worked for adhesion, but that wasn't the worst of the issues. I'm still waiting on the bed replacement, but right now I'm not willing to put in more work than I have already. It's cheap junk, and my time is worth more than this. My office needs a printer, so I'm going to expense the crimp kit to fix the tinned leads and just let them deal with that pile of poo poo. Maybe someone else gets it working GonadTheBallbarian fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Sep 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 02:44
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:I'm hoping to pick up some fancy printers, new job willing, and I'm awfully tempted to set up a huge sized Voron 2.4 with an E3D tool changer for large carbon fiber prints with PVA supports. If Prusa beats me to the punch, hell frigging yeah Build a Trident for that. Stationary gantry = ezpz toolchangers.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 02:56
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:I wouldn't hold my breath for things getting much bigger than the current-gen Big Boys, or at least not for a hobbyist-friendly implementation. DLP x/y form-factors are unique in being a direct reflection of, and tightly constrained by, the mass-production of ultrahigh-DPI displays for phones, and I just don't see larger screen form-factors becoming popular enough in consumer electronics to bring that sweet sweet economy of scale hobbyists crave. I know this has changed a fair bit in the past year or two and manufacturers aren't at the same mercy of phone hardware selection as they were when the first crop of really mature hobbyist DLP printers were being designed, but i don't think the underlying dynamic of "shockingly-cheap phone displays are effectively subsidizing hobbyist resin printers" has changed significantly. You're confusing DLP with LCD. DLP printers use projectors, not phone screens.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 03:04
|
|
|
Ordered a Prusa mini but also suffered some serious impulse control issues and also ordered an Elegoo Mars 2 for some resin stuff. Any recommendations on filament or resin, or is it pretty much just buy whatever unless you want a specific property like carbon fiber? Also any upgrades/supplies I should go for immediately or soon? Where to you all set up? Does a standard tabletop work or will I need to take extra care that there's no wobble on whatever I set it on? I have a rack for a 40 gallon aquarium I could potentially mount things too if necessary, otherwise I'm just gonna park it on a table in my office.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 03:23
|
|
|
NofrikinfuN posted:Ordered a Prusa mini but also suffered some serious impulse control issues and also ordered an Elegoo Mars 2 for some resin stuff. Elegoo ABS like resin is good at a good price point, Siraya tech has a lot of very nice resins if you need more flexibility or strength. Any well rated PLA on Amazon will work just fine for filament, I like overture matte PLA because the matte finish dulls artifacts and layer lines. For resin you will need isopropyl alcohol, a box of nitrile gloves, and some way to clean and final cure the prints. I found little containers with baskets in them from the dollar store, used two of them filled with IPA to clean. First one was a dirty bath to shake it around and get majority of resin off, second one is cleaner IPA to rinse again, scrub with a toothbrush and then one more rinse. Dry off and then cure with a UV light or the big yellow UV light in the sky. Also get lots of paper towels. E: maybe I want to die of resin poisoning Bodanarko fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Sep 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 03:48
|
|
|
Prusament resin is now available for $69 per kilogram plus shipping. I don't mind paying more for quality materials, but I'm skeptical if it's worth the price point (similar to their sla printer, really). Sirayatech for me, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 03:53
|
|
|
Bodanarko posted:Nitrile gloves
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 03:58
|
|
|
Bodanarko posted:Elegoo ABS like resin is good at a good price point, Siraya tech has a lot of very nice resins if you need more flexibility or strength. Any well rated PLA on Amazon will work just fine for filament, I like overture matte PLA because the matte finish dulls artifacts and layer lines. Thanks for the recommends. If nothing else I will definitely go for matte finishes to mitigate the lines. On that note, do I need any special nozzles? The only options during the order were powder finish build plate which I skipped over and filament sensor which I added. I'm fine printing default sizes while I am figuring things out, but I'd like to push how fine it can print detail at some point. Good call on the gloves, I would have forgotten. I did pick up a bunch of 99% IPA and i went ahead and got the wash and cure station.. Are those very effective, or will I most likely be busting out a toothbrush anyway?
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 04:04
|
|
|
Ohhh is it specifically nitrile gloves then?
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 04:05
|
|
|
Yeah, latex is too permeable for the resins and it'll get through and expose you. Nitrile isn't perfect either, so be timely about putting on a fresh pair of gloves and don't sweat going through multiple pairs on a job.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 04:07
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:Yeah, latex is too permeable for the resins and it'll get through and expose you. Okay, thanks. Have any Prusa owners experienced power outages during prints? If so, how did it handle it? Did it abort the print? I can look for a UPS if that would be enough for short outages.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 04:29
|
|
|
NofrikinfuN posted:Okay, thanks. I haven't had a power outage yet, but something I like about the Prusa I have is it has a hardware based power panic feature. It claims if the power drops, it's able to pause on the current g-code line and recover after power is restored. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/power-panic_2092/
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 04:41
|
|
|
Chainclaw posted:I haven't had a power outage yet, but something I like about the Prusa I have is it has a hardware based power panic feature. It claims if the power drops, it's able to pause on the current g-code line and recover after power is restored. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/power-panic_2092/ It recovered without incident when my cat knocked the power cord loose from the wall.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 04:57
|
|
|
That's a relief. I live in a rural area that is no stranger to unexplained power outages, so I wasn't sure if I was stuck with small print jobs or what. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 05:11
|
|
|
NofrikinfuN posted:Thanks for the recommends. If nothing else I will definitely go for matte finishes to mitigate the lines. On that note, do I need any special nozzles? The only options during the order were powder finish build plate which I skipped over and filament sensor which I added. I'm fine printing default sizes while I am figuring things out, but I'd like to push how fine it can print detail at some point. Duh nitrile not latex, bad brains from all the resin inhalation/absorption probably. With cure and wash you should be good to go without a toothbrush, they are pretty effective. I haven’t ever needed a finer nozzle than .4 but I got a variety pack of cheap ones on Amazon (.1-1.0) just for fun and you can blow through filament and print things very quickly (if not prettily) using a .8/1.0 nozzle. Having a resin printer, I think all your detail work would end up on that instead of requiring smaller nozzles but I’m sure there’s some application.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 05:14
|
|
|
My kids had science homework to make a phases of matter model, he was so excited. I put him on tinkercad, talked him through exporting and slicing and let it go, the only advice I offered was to squash the "molecules" together a little to overlap for easier printing. He's going to be stoked when he wakes up and see it, until he notices his spelling mistake  
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 06:19
|
|
|
Best he learns that regret now, than after a cheap tattoo later in life. Parenting win!
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 07:41
|
|
|
NofrikinfuN posted:Ohhh is it specifically nitrile gloves then? Just as a general thought, it's entirely possible to post-process resin prints without coating your hands, you, and the rest of the room in uncured material. Even with prints off my bigger machine, I've got my process down to where I only wear a glove on my dominant hand (that's actually likely to touch the uncured model), and my skin is pretty sensitive to the resins. A little bit of care, a little bit of thought put into your work flow, and some silicone salad tongs to help move stuff around all go a long way toward not making a huge mess or creating undue health hazards.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 11:13
|
|
|
On the other hand, watch this video and pay close attention. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kHcsTG9QsM
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 11:21
|
|
|
I've seen it, and his carelessness with letting resin drip everywhere and splashing the isopropyl out of the container when he's washing the model is absolutely cringeworthy. There's no reason to be that sloppy. I've never had any trouble keeping resin off things it wasn't supposed to be on, because I pay attention to what I'm doing and take care to not make a great big mess. It's not hard. More often than not, my prints go through the entire cleaning and curing process without having to touch them with my hands at all.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 11:42
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Just as a general thought, it's entirely possible to post-process resin prints without coating your hands, you, and the rest of the room in uncured material. Even with prints off my bigger machine, I've got my process down to where I only wear a glove on my dominant hand (that's actually likely to touch the uncured model), and my skin is pretty sensitive to the resins. A little bit of care, a little bit of thought put into your work flow, and some silicone salad tongs to help move stuff around all go a long way toward not making a huge mess or creating undue health hazards. I've posted in this thread about it already, but I use these sandwich gloves https://www.amazon.ca/Ronco-Deli-Medium-Disposable-Gloves/dp/B00QEGN8TE/ref=sr_1_9 instead of the much more expensive nitrile gloves for 99% of my resin printing. The reason I bring these up again is because they are so ridiculously cheap that there is no need to do things like only wear them on your dominant hand. Each time I have to take a print off a build plate I can quickly glove up, touch what I need to touch that has, or might have, resin on it and then throw them away. They're never on my hands for more than a minute or two. When I solely used nitrile gloves I found myself trying to ration them in ways that probably put me in contact with way more resin than was needed. I also highly recommend tongs/tweezers for moving uncleaned prints around.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 13:45
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:I've seen it, and his carelessness with letting resin drip everywhere and splashing the isopropyl out of the container when he's washing the model is absolutely cringeworthy. There's no reason to be that sloppy. I've never had any trouble keeping resin off things it wasn't supposed to be on, because I pay attention to what I'm doing and take care to not make a great big mess. It's not hard. More often than not, my prints go through the entire cleaning and curing process without having to touch them with my hands at all. I was specifically talking about the repeated cautioning about wearing gloves, but yeah, focus on the irrelevant bits where he hosed up doing stuff while trying to film at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 14:17
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:I also highly recommend tongs/tweezers for moving uncleaned prints around. Chopsticks are great, and you can get the really long cooking ones too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 14:22
|
|
|
I wear nitrile gloves and don't worry about rationing them or anything, because what's $20 or so for a pack of 100 versus developing an irreversible sensitivity to resin I should add in the interest of fairness, though, that I'm strictly a hobbyist printing miniatures for fun, so I'm not running the printers 24/7. I can see where that cost would definitely add up for someone who's running an Etsy store or something similar for products they sell, or some other business use situation where resin printing is an everyday task.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 15:20
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:I should add in the interest of fairness, though, that I'm strictly a hobbyist printing miniatures for fun, so I'm not running the printers 24/7. I can see where that cost would definitely add up for someone who's running an Etsy store or something similar for products they sell, or some other business use situation where resin printing is an everyday task. In the business context the possibility of irreversible resin sensitivity should be of even more concern. You’re basically talking about an increased cost of doing business in the form of more gloves vs not being able to do business anymore because you’re sensitive to the stuff your products are made out of. Still seems an easy equation. 🤷🏻♂️
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
Can you not get/use like industrial chemical resistant gloves? The super thick kind.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 16:38
|
|
|
Fantastic Foreskin posted:Can you not get/use like industrial chemical resistant gloves? The super thick kind. When I was printing a lot I used heavy thick reusable dishwashing type gloves when doing things like filling/emptying vats or cleaning, stuff that doesn’t require lots of fine motor or detail, had no issues using the same pair for months. Wiped them down with IPA if they had any resin contact and had no issues.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 17:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 00:06 |
|
|
Fantastic Foreskin posted:Can you not get/use like industrial chemical resistant gloves? The super thick kind. Manual dexterityis a pain. I have a heavy duty pair from the hardware store and frankly cleaning them between uses sucks Im currently buying nitrile gloves from Costco whenever I can find them because of panic Buying shortages
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2021 17:05
|
|