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yoohoo posted:That’s helpful, thanks. I guess I’m more curious about what kind of improvements I’d actually see. Like is spending $2k+ on a bike that’s built for the road going to be *that* much of an improvement? Or will putting some 25s on get me close enough, like you say? I’m trying to talk myself out of N+1, as much as I want a lighter frame and the extra gears. The steel renegade is kinda a tank. A nice light aluminum road bike will *feel* very noticeably more nimble. Whipping it around out of the saddle or away from a stop sign will feel great. Versus just running the same narrow tires+fast wheels, it will likely be within-margin-of-error speed on flat ground, though. Feel doesn't matter that much for raw speed, wheels and tires do. If you care about speed, just get nice tires and wheels. If you want it to feel light and fun, maybe test ride one.
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Sep 16, 2021 12:43
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Sure, you could put slick tires on a gravel bike and ride road, but that’s not really the point of buying a gravel bike is it? If my grandmother had wheels she’d be a bike. And you’ll spin out descending any decent hill. For lots of people, versatility is one of the main selling points of a gravel bike, as they spend most of their time not riding gravel. They’re just a comfortable, sturdy, endurance geometry road bike with big tyre clearance. There is no benefit to losing a big chunk of gear range.
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Sep 16, 2021 12:51
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wooger posted:I would prioritise getting a 105 or GRX groupset over a carbon frame any day, and I fail to see the point of 1x for gravel. You lose a massive amount of versatility vs 2x. I rode a 1x 11-36 on the road for a long time. It sucked for climbs and you spun out on descents much sooner, but with 11 speeds, the cadence gaps weren't too bad most of the time. wooger posted:There is no benefit to losing a big chunk of gear range. Less to clean, less to adjust/maintain are probably top of my mind. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 12:52
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wooger posted:And you’ll spin out descending any decent hill. I agree with your take on what a gravel bike is, but I never feel like a big downhill is off limits because I can't power down it, but a big uphill is off limits if I can't monster truck up it with a <1.0 ratio. e: a bigger thing on downhills is the seat getting in the way, so one thing I'd like with a 1x MTB set if it fits on my Grail is to use the spare shifter for dropper duty. Ola fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 12:58
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wooger posted:And you’ll spin out descending any decent hill. How often are you ripping down a gravel descent spinning out at 130rpm? This would put you nearly at 45mph btw. Pretty unrealistic. I don’t think you want a gravel bike. What’s the point in posting hot takes about how 1x gravel bikes suck when you’re not even using it for the intended purpose? Ola posted:I agree with your take on what a gravel bike is, but I never feel like a big downhill is off limits because I can't power down it, but a big uphill is off limits if I can't monster truck up it with a <1.0 ratio. I also don’t know many gravel climbs where I’m needing more than a 1:1. You’re sub 5mph at 60rpm and probably struggling to keep the wheel on the ground. If you’re tackling terrain where you’re needing a dropper it sounds like a MTB would be better suited.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:16
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This is like people who complained when cross bikes didn't have fender and rack eyelets, lmao. Folks would be a lot happier if they realized that "gravel bike" is a big category and there's room for a lot of different permutations without being "wrong".
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Sep 16, 2021 13:29
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Tbf, the context of the link was showing a gravel bike to at least one poster who was looking to ride only road. Where the bike would be presumably repurposed with slick tires for a minimum change for their application.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:32
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:
Maybe not "need", but certainly "would prefer". But yeah, I don't think my next bike will be another gravel bike.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:32
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If I'm riding a bike on the road for any appreciable time I want a road bike with clearance for big tyres rather than a gravel bike, because you're going to feel the limitations more on the road than the benefits on gravel if you go with a gravel 1x setup.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:40
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I will still stand utop the hill waving a flag saying that a touring or audax bike with separate sets of road and gravel tyres is actually what a lot of people would find most useful if they only want one bike.
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Sep 16, 2021 14:14
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A lot of touring bikes handle kinda meh and just don't feel fun to ride is the problem for me. All the road bikes I've been on were stupid fast in comparison but aside from straight line speed and sweeping curves just didn't feel as nice doing anything that resembled sketchy. Gravel bikes are usually a bit more nimble than most touring bikes I've tried and CX bikes are just a hoot to hoon because that's what they're built for. If you're doing short to medium riding more often than not the minimal benefits of going with a full touring or more stable gravel bike are outweighed by the fact that they won't be quite as fun to chuck around on rides. So what I'm saying is figure out what you want to prioritize and if you can't quite pin it down get a gravel bike or a cross bike depending on what you can find. EDIT: when it comes to slicks vs chunky tires I hear a lot more people regret buying a road bike than buying a gravel bike. Might be a regional thing here because there's a lot more places with bad roads than good but aside from performance group rides being stuck having to turn around when the pavement ends sucks more than being 20% less efficient on good pavement. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 15:28
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I’m going to put 32s on my Venge
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Sep 16, 2021 16:02
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Can I get some recommendations for good youtube channels that discuss things like tire selection, setup tweaking, making the most of what you have at your disposal, etc? You know, just good bike discussion with no (or at least as little as possible) product reviews or talk about this year's models or how microbrands are shaking up the bike industry.
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Sep 16, 2021 16:04
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learnincurve posted:I will still stand utop the hill waving a flag saying that a touring or audax bike with separate sets of road and gravel tyres is actually what a lot of people would find most useful if they only want one bike. Swapping wheels is for losers. Everybody should have and deserves to have more than one bike.
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Sep 16, 2021 17:39
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I'm down to Three (3) bikes now. 1. Road Bike 2. CX Bike 3. Track bike that lives on the wall
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Sep 16, 2021 17:44
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numberoneposter posted:I'm down to Three (3) bikes now. Unsubscribe!!!
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Sep 16, 2021 17:45
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whats the biggest cargo bike i can get
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Sep 16, 2021 18:21
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Butchers & Bicycles MK1-E Gen. 3 . 107lbs empty
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Sep 16, 2021 18:35
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Can I get some recommendations for good youtube channels that discuss things like tire selection, setup tweaking, making the most of what you have at your disposal, etc? You know, just good bike discussion with no (or at least as little as possible) product reviews or talk about this year's models or how microbrands are shaking up the bike industry. RJ the Bike Guy is a decent resource for fixing things, but mostly on the low end. I think it serves an important need, but it doesn't intersect that well with what you want https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaAK2FaxQ2xiBbAUVZsvDYQ
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Sep 16, 2021 18:40
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bicievino posted:The steel renegade is kinda a tank. A nice light aluminum road bike will *feel* very noticeably more nimble. Whipping it around out of the saddle or away from a stop sign will feel great. That makes sense. Wheels and tires will get me speed but not much more. I rode a friends CAAD last weekend and I really liked how quick and light it was which got me thinking. 80% of my riding is on well maintained roads and paths and I've got a solid mix of hills and flat around me. Any decent uphill quickly becomes a slog on the Renegade but the CAAD just flew up hills. I'll do some test rides + look at new wheels and tires. I'm not in any hurry to buy anything now. Thanks for the advice y'all.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:20
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I want to get a dropper seatpost and a Brand-X Ascend II (no internal routing on my bike) seems like a good budget choice, so I'm looking for a final sanity check so I don't gently caress up and order a size that doesn't fit. I know that my current post is 31.6 in diameter so the options are: 31.6mm x 400mm 125mm 31.6mm x 449mm 150mm More travel sounds like more fun to me, so I'm leaning towards that one, but I'd like to be confident that it fits...  This bit is just a hair over 200mm - set to my riding/climbing height, could probably go up a couple mm too.  The frame is totally straight down the tube to the bottom bracket, so I guess nothing should get in the way - I don't have a bottle cage on this part and I'm fine with not using it. So the 449mm length post with 150mm travel should be fine?
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Sep 16, 2021 19:37
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bicievino posted:The steel renegade is kinda a tank. A nice light aluminum road bike will *feel* very noticeably more nimble. Whipping it around out of the saddle or away from a stop sign will feel great. This has been my experience going from my old alu/carbon road race bike to a steel gravel bike. The road bike feels faster because it's lighter, twitchier, and just all around a more harsh and unforgiving ride with its aggressive geometry and riding on 23-25s. But in real world riding my GPS track data just doesn't back up that the bike actually is any faster. If I were to do an all-out TT or big hillclimb then yea the roadie will be faster, no doubt. But I'd attribute that foremost to aero and tires, and then the few pounds weight difference. But the real world is full of bad pavement, pot holes, traffic, stop lights, dirt roads, etc.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:59
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Angryhead posted:I want to get a dropper seatpost and a Brand-X Ascend II (no internal routing on my bike) seems like a good budget choice, so I'm looking for a final sanity check so I don't gently caress up and order a size that doesn't fit. I think you are gonna be fine, only other thing id check is the seat rail to bottom of collar distance for the 150 to make sure it'll still fit - I could see there being more than 50mm in the collar and seat post head that could result in it not fitting for you.
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Sep 16, 2021 20:14
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Guinness posted:This has been my experience going from my old alu/carbon road race bike to a steel gravel bike. Time trial bike? Yeah gently caress those things.
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Sep 16, 2021 20:16
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the bike people will be happy on will be the one that they enjoy the most and fits their preferences use case and those are things that are not the same across every person, so I don't see the point in people jumping up to say "well I think the best bike for everyone is this!"
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Sep 16, 2021 20:36
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Angryhead posted:
Depending on the manufacturing, there could be bumps or imperfections on the inside of the bottle cage bosses that would catch on the bottom of the post. For 100% peace of mind, I'd measure from the top boss to the seatpost collar to see if it's longer than the base part of the dropper post. Or also subtracting however much of the base sticks out of the seat tube.
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Sep 16, 2021 20:40
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Levitate posted:the bike people will be happy on will be the one that they enjoy the most and fits their preferences use case and those are things that are not the same across every person, so I don't see the point in people jumping up to say "well I think the best bike for everyone is this!"
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Sep 16, 2021 20:50
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Levitate posted:the bike people will be happy on will be the one that they enjoy the most and fits their preferences use case and those are things that are not the same across every person, so I don't see the point in people jumping up to say "well I think the best bike for everyone is this!" Well obviously the best bike for everyone is multiple bikes.
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Sep 16, 2021 20:54
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kimbo305 posted:Everyone should try out the max possible tire width on their current rides.
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Sep 16, 2021 21:32
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Angryhead posted:I want to get a dropper seatpost and a Brand-X Ascend II (no internal routing on my bike) seems like a good budget choice, so I'm looking for a final sanity check so I don't gently caress up and order a size that doesn't fit. No, the bottle cage bosses will stop you from inserting stuff past them. Measure down to the top of the highest bottle cage hole, and then take off a few mm more - there will be crap around that. I have the same dropper post by the way, the BX ascent II with external routing. It's good! Make sure you pick the correct 1x or 2x version, as that dictates the style remote you receive.
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Sep 16, 2021 21:41
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Sep 16, 2021 21:53
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Good average speed for that distance
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Sep 16, 2021 22:39
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Really good work
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Sep 16, 2021 22:42
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:nod: Bike was ridden that day
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Sep 16, 2021 23:03
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That's rad. You went a lot further than my ride today. 
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Sep 16, 2021 23:31
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Cross is here and I am not ready.
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Sep 17, 2021 00:02
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OP should get a Cervelo Caledonia and stick 35mm tires on there. He'll have desired road gearing and then the fatter tires.
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Sep 17, 2021 00:25
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numberoneposter posted:Cross is here and I am not ready. How’s your ability to receive beer hand ups?
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Sep 17, 2021 00:54
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I'm sure the answer is "it depends" but I'm looking at two different bikes from the same make that seem very similar to me but are marketed as different lines. Would the better buy be a fully kitted out "entry" level bike or the bare bones "nicer" bike? Bikes in question: 2022 Marlin 8 vs 2021 X-Caliber 7. Why the Marlin 8: 1x12 groupset, tubeless ready everything. Why the X-Caliber 7: Cheaper (~200 bucks), tapered head tube, internal routing for dropper post. I was ready to pull the trigger on the Marlin 8 and just run an external dropper post in a few months, but my bike buddy said I'd hit an upper limit on the Marlin 8 and I'd be able to stretch the life of the X-Caliber longer. When I bought my road bike I bought the nicest thing that fit my budget, but what do you do when your budget has a lot of overlap between models?
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Sep 17, 2021 03:04
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At this price point, it makes little sense to upgrade things besides tires. Buying parts at retail will be such a huge fraction of the initial purchase price. Most nicer forks would require you to have a modern hub spec, so you’d have to buy a new front wheel as well. The Marlin has an older rear wheel hub standard, which would actually give you more uograde/repair options. The X-Caliber’s Boost141 is a dead end, imo. It potentially lets you bring the X-Caliber’s wheel to a more modern frame with real Boost 148, but anyone who’d do that would be using a nicer wheel in the first place. I dunno the shifting quality of SX, but if you’re going to be doing substantial amounts of climbing on the bike, the 12 speeds will definitely be nicer for finding a cadence. The geometry of the two frames are pretty close.
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Sep 17, 2021 10:43
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