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Ensign Expendable posted:Finished my first combination resin head/plastic body today. The difference in detail is phenomenal. Looks great, great job!
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Sep 8, 2021 13:28
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Slugworth posted:So did he spray the whole model the color of the decal, place the decals, paint, and then remove the decal? I imagine you could also hold the decal in place with a brush or something while spraying over/around it. Ensign Expendable posted:Finished my first combination resin head/plastic body today. The difference in detail is phenomenal. That's great work! So I sprayed a model with hairspray for chipping and immediately got distracted for a few days (or a week). Will the hairspray still work at this point or do I need another layer? Also, EE's gorgeous Ryefield Pz. IV inspired me, so I ordered their M1A2 with interior. I am very excited for this kit and I to gently caress each other up.
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Sep 8, 2021 14:39
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Slugworth posted:So did he spray the whole model the color of the decal, place the decals, paint, and then remove the decal? Or traced the decal onto tape and masked with the tape cut to shape after painting the decal color.
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Sep 8, 2021 17:06
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-1_JwlHO-8 1:3 is a scale right?
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Sep 9, 2021 20:24
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Two attempts at the same kit, ten years apart. I think I got better.
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Sep 9, 2021 22:49
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what kit is that? looks great
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Sep 9, 2021 23:09
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punishedkissinger posted:what kit is that? looks great The 1993 Zvezda T-34, an old and awful kit that has since been replaced in production by a much better one.
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Sep 10, 2021 00:08
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Bucnasti posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-1_JwlHO-8 Holy poo poo.
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Sep 10, 2021 22:37
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Proper pics of the tank:        Full album: https://imgur.com/gallery/CuwNzPs
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Sep 11, 2021 17:49
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Nice work, and nice photography!
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Sep 11, 2021 18:35
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those are some nice colors. what was your process?
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Sep 11, 2021 22:24
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punishedkissinger posted:those are some nice colors. what was your process? Vallejo Russian Green primer Vallejo Black Green in the dark bits A very thin coat of Vallejo Khaki Gray Humbrol enamel dark green wash Brown/ochre pigments plus Humbrol dust wash (then pigments over the wash since it came on way too heavy and wouldn't come out). This was my first time using either Humbrol product, seems to have worked out alright.
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Sep 11, 2021 23:01
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 This is part of the instructions for the M1A2 I'm building. The T series parts are transparent. Section D has a callout for a gunmetal-ish color for the machine gun that goes into an assembly that would be colored by the basecoat. I'm curious what others' procedure are for sections like these. Do you just assemble everything, prime/spray it all, then brush paint or mask? I know there are different ways to approach it, but I'm trying to decide what will be most efficient. I spent an hour or so masking off parts of the gun breech with tape and putty and it definitely did not feel efficient.
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Sep 15, 2021 20:57
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Imgur's quick links suck. You have to copy the image URL directly and paste it into the timg tags. For the scope on the gun, I'd leave it off until you'd painted the rest of the subassembly, then glue it on and detail by hand. Overall, I'd just do the whole subassembly without painting, stick it on the turret, basecoat the whole thing, and then brush paint the gun later. You might need to rock the gun around a little bit to make sure you've got the base of it fully painted. I like to paint my vision blocks over with white or a sky blue, so they stand out, but I also like my models to look pretty cartoony. Some folks will paint the housings with a lighter color and leave the vision blocks untouched. It's largely a matter of preference, rather than efficiency.
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Sep 15, 2021 21:46
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Suzaku posted:Or traced the decal onto tape and masked with the tape cut to shape after painting the decal color. I'd assume something like this.
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Sep 15, 2021 23:01
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I try to glue transparent parts in only after everything is painted. If you need to paint a section of the transparent part, I will brush paint it separately from the rest of the kit. Specifically for the scope it looks like it might not be too difficult to mask off the ends. Worst case scenario, dip a q-tip into some alcohol and rub off the paint that went over the lens.
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Sep 16, 2021 00:14
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Vorenus posted:
I'm more of a paint before assemble person. If you use a gel type superglue, you can glue painted parts no problem. I prefer the Bob Smith (BSI) glue in the pink bottle, but Loctite makes a good glue in the blue and black bottle. The thing I don't like about the Loctite glue is that it looks like you are getting a decent sized bottle, but if you break it apart, there is just a tiny little tube of glue inside. Don't try to use styrene glue (Testors/Tamiya/Mr. Hobby) on painted surfaces or you will end up with a gummy mess that doesn't cure at all well. I used to scrape all the paint off surfaces to be glued and used styrene glue, then I found out how well gel superglue works and my paint scraping days were over. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 01:00
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Liquid mask is also an option.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:04
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Liquid mask smells so astoundingly terrible that I will voluntarily cut my own masks rather than use it. Or more often than not, just press some blu-tack into the right shape in a thin layer 'cause I'm lazy.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:23
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grassy gnoll posted:Imgur's quick links suck. You have to copy the image URL directly and paste it into the timg tags. or just copy the BBCode and add t into the img tags.
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Sep 16, 2021 14:42
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grassy gnoll posted:Liquid mask smells so astoundingly terrible that I will voluntarily cut my own masks rather than use it. Or more often than not, just press some blu-tack into the right shape in a thin layer 'cause I'm lazy. Silly putty for tank camo! I want someone to explain to me and my stigmata why x-acto knife handles are round.
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Sep 16, 2021 15:37
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Because it's way easier to turn down a billet on a lathe than it is to plane it into an exact set of dimensions when you're working as cheap as an X-acto handle gets.
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Sep 16, 2021 16:32
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Thanks for the responses everyone! I had a ...interesting... learning experience on one of my first models about the interaction between paint and liquid cement. I've used super glue and I find it's similar to blu-tac in that it desperately wants to find its way to touching and sticking to anything you do NOT want it to touch, while also shyly avoiding whatever you do want it to stick it. I'll have to give the gelled version a try. Also not sure what happened with the imgur link. Jobbo_Fett posted:or just copy the BBCode and add t into the img tags. 
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Sep 16, 2021 16:37
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Vorenus posted:This is exactly what I used to do, but now it only gives me an option to copy the direct image link. I tried manually adding [timg] [/timg] tags but I'm very curious as to how you're doing it. Are you adding the t's after the link is pasted on SA or are you changing it in imgur?
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Sep 16, 2021 17:05
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grassy gnoll posted:Liquid mask smells so astoundingly terrible that I will voluntarily cut my own masks rather than use it. Or more often than not, just press some blu-tack into the right shape in a thin layer 'cause I'm lazy. What brand are you using? The stuff I use is water based and has no odor at all. It's by the same maker as Micro Sol and Micro Set decal solutions. But, like the other guy said, silly putty is my go to for most flexible masking.
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Sep 16, 2021 17:28
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I forget the brand, but it's basically liquid latex with some bright dye in it so you don't miss any when you scrape it off. If there's good water-based stuff out there, I'll change in a heartbeat.
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Sep 16, 2021 17:39
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Silly putty for tank camo! Get a couple of Swann Morton (#3 and #4) scalpel handles and the blades of your choice. Far superior to X-Acto knives.
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Sep 16, 2021 17:47
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grassy gnoll posted:Because it's way easier to turn down a billet on a lathe than it is to plane it into an exact set of dimensions when you're working as cheap as an X-acto handle gets.  SkunkDuster posted:Get a couple of Swann Morton (#3 and #4) scalpel handles and the blades of your choice. Far superior to X-Acto knives. Ooooo. Do you have a preferred non-Amazon supplier? Edit: ideally in North America. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 18:07
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I've switched over to scalpels almost exclusively. I have several cheap handles and a nice German made one. You can feel the difference without looking which is which. I keep that for fresh #11 blades, and the others for other blades. After a bit of use or if the tip snaps the fresh one gets moved to a cheap handle for less delicate jobs. Blades can be bought super cheap by the hundred - usually under $15 bucks. Don't buy them by ten packs, you end up paying as much for 30 as you would for the box. The only downside is that being thinner, they do break more than exacto blades. Having super sharp chunks of steel go flying in random directions can be a tad unsettling.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:11
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grassy gnoll posted:I forget the brand, but it's basically liquid latex with some bright dye in it so you don't miss any when you scrape it off. If there's good water-based stuff out there, I'll change in a heartbeat. I'm not sure if its water based but Vallejo liquid mask doesn't have any smell that I can remember and it works really well.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:53
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EdsTeioh posted:The stripes are so thick they're almost like vinyl stickers and less like actual waterslide decals. There was a guy in the thread years ago that ended up using his as stencils, which is a process that I can't totally get my head around, but I'd love to see it in practice. Was that me? 
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Sep 16, 2021 20:20
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MrUnderbridge posted:The only downside is that being thinner, they do break more than exacto blades. Having super sharp chunks of steel go flying in random directions can be a tad unsettling. I’ve only had one break on me and the blade flew close enough to my face to make me have to sit back for a minute and contemplate immediately going out to go buy safety glasses, but I’m more cognizant of how the blade is being stressed now after that. I think it was a cheap #11, but I’m using proper xacto blades now along with sprue cutters. Anyway, I’ve just started a RFM Pz. IV Ausf. G (5053, non-interior version) to complement my AFV Club T-34-85 and it’s a very good kit so far. The fit has been perfect, even if I have had to do moderate cleanup on questionable sprue connections in the middle of hull plate connecting grooves, but it’s not a very big deal and I’ve gotten pretty good at excising them. The 3d printed smoke grenade dischargers are pretty neat and I hope future kits use 3d printed parts more often.
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Sep 17, 2021 00:45
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Blue Footed Booby posted:
I'm afraid not. I ordered mine from Amazon. I use #11 blades in the #3 handle and the curved #23 blades in the #4 handle. Haven't had one break yet, but I am paranoid about slicing my fingers up when changing blades, so I use a pair of pliers for that.
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Sep 17, 2021 15:13
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So it's my bday and I decided to splurge and do my first larger scale model: I can't tell if it looks like it will be easier or harder than the typical 1/24 scale models I'm used to.
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Sep 17, 2021 23:29
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Huh, now that's kinda weird. I have two bottles of Tamiya XF-74, one I bought online, the other I bought at a local store and they’re completely different shades of green. I couldn't find anything online about Tamiya changing the color and there's absolutely no difference in the label. Very strange.  Guess I'll just buy another one online and see what color it is.
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Sep 19, 2021 14:09
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RillAkBea posted:Huh, now that's kinda weird. I have two bottles of Tamiya XF-74, one I bought online, the other I bought at a local store and they’re completely different shades of green. 
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Sep 19, 2021 14:31
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Man, gently caress Revell tanks with individual link tracks, The final result is never going to be good enough to justify the extra work. edit: Just building up to try out this technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-kqLtRGhUQ Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Sep 20, 2021 |
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Sep 20, 2021 08:08
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RillAkBea posted:Huh, now that's kinda weird. I have two bottles of Tamiya XF-74, one I bought online, the other I bought at a local store and they’re completely different shades of green. Did you use the same primer for both?
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Sep 20, 2021 09:18
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Jonny Nox posted:Man, gently caress Revell tanks with individual link tracks, Link to link is definitely a double edged sword. I've come to appreciate link and length, although there are some link to link tracks that are just a pleasure to work with.
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Sep 20, 2021 15:21
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I'm to the point where it's a genuine relief when I open a 1/72 tank and the tracks and suspension are all one single unit.
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Sep 20, 2021 16:25
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