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n8r posted:Search for “brake lever sleeve” on Amazon. $10 will get you a bunch of rubber covers that solve the problem. I’ve gotten so used to them I ride them all year.
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Sep 1, 2021 22:38
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Finally made it to the whistler bike park. Unsurprisingly it was awesome. I just ripped around on blue flow trails all day until my hands died from the brake bumps. Probably won't make it back this season but that place owns.
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Sep 7, 2021 03:36
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Went to Panorama yesterday for closing day at the bike park. I got my rear end kicked but it was hella fun.
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Sep 7, 2021 04:28
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I was going to head to Whistler with my family this weekend but stayed in because the weather looked awful. I actually had the worst season yet in terms of riding days - only about 5-6 days and I bought a seasons pass. poo poo.
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Sep 7, 2021 04:40
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If I have an 11 speed 11-36 cassette and upgrade it to an 11-42 11 speed do I need to also upgrade the rear derailleur? My cassette is so worn out the chain skips on it so I have to replace it, the chainring, and the chain. Thanks previous bike owners who never changed the chain before I bought it!
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Sep 10, 2021 03:15
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Depends what derailleur you have.
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Sep 10, 2021 03:33
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Yeah look up if you have the short or long cage. Long cage you're probably fine. Short will probably not like it I'd guess. I had a short cage 10 speed and tried to do the same swap. Even with the wolf tooth link or whatever it's called it still shifted like hot garbage.
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Sep 10, 2021 03:52
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Eejit posted:If I have an 11 speed 11-36 cassette and upgrade it to an 11-42 11 speed do I need to also upgrade the rear derailleur? Keep holding out! your bike will surely show up in the next.......... it is never coming.
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Sep 10, 2021 04:58
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Eejit posted:If I have an 11 speed 11-36 cassette and upgrade it to an 11-42 11 speed do I need to also upgrade the rear derailleur? Is it XT? Both XT rear mechs will work with an 11-46 as a 1x drivetrain.
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Sep 10, 2021 05:15
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I'm thinking of making my Kona Honzo a bit more nimble since I tend to do more climbing/distance on it rather than shred down a diamond/black. Would tires be the best place to start? It's currently running: Maxxis DHF 29x2.5" front and Dissector 29x2.3" rear. I'm in socal so it's always dry and sandy. Bonus if it's something that will make the paved part to the trails a bit less of a slog.
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Sep 16, 2021 22:36
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Is it normal to have bigger tires on the front? I don't claim to be an expert but I just had to replace my rear and when I checked my factory specs the front was a 2.3" and the back a 2.4" Edit: this is why you double-check before you post. Nocheez fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 22:57
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Nocheez posted:Is it normal to have bigger tires on the front? I don't claim to be an expert but I just had to replace my rear and when I checked my factory specs the front was a 2.3" and the back a 2.4" Yes it is, otherwise your rear tracks uphill basically. You want equal or larger on front generally.
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Sep 16, 2021 22:58
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Well I'm an idiot. I definitely got the right tire for my rear but the front is a 2.5" I blame having a newborn and no sleep.
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Sep 16, 2021 22:59
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The bike still works tbh, it's a really minor difference in most circumstances.
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Sep 16, 2021 23:12
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Also you generally want a thinner, faster rolling/lower traction tire on the test than the front so it breaks free first as it's much easier to catch a back end slide than a front.
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Sep 16, 2021 23:16
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Yeah, losing the front is something you want to never happen , rear is acceptable. You could run a thinner ply tire up front to lose weight - eg 2.3 exo+ rear, 2.4 exo front or 2.4 doubledown rear, 2.5 exo+ front - that sort of thing. Typically its the rear that needs the tougher casing, as its gets most of the worst square edge hits(this depends on how likely these are on your trails). Exo+ is the absolute minimum id run on the rear - from personal experience basic exo wont take any abuse with sharp rocks. Im currently running doubledown shorty(2.5 WT max grip) with exo+ dhr2 (2.4 WT max terra). That was a mistake on my part(poor wet season planning on my part) and probably next time ill have the casings reversed(but keep the compounds the same). Ive run doubledown on the rear previously, and its pretty bullet proof for me.
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Sep 17, 2021 13:25
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So my "clunky" drivetrain issue was partly due to needing to turn my barrel adjuster just a bit and mostly due, I'm assuming, to some minor pitting in my rear hub. It's completely ridable and my LBS and I agree "just ride it until it breaks". These rims aren't tubeless ready so an upgrade is needed anyway. People around here are describing techy trails as "old school single track". Does that imply that it's a dying demand in the mtb community? I've found myself having more fun on those trails than some of the "new school flow" I've tried.
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Sep 18, 2021 16:03
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Steak posted:So my "clunky" drivetrain issue was partly due to needing to turn my barrel adjuster just a bit and mostly due, I'm assuming, to some minor pitting in my rear hub. It's completely ridable and my LBS and I agree "just ride it until it breaks". These rims aren't tubeless ready so an upgrade is needed anyway. All the bike edits these days are 17 year olds drifting berms and doing tricks so flow trails with jumps tend to be really popular - anecdotally at Whistler you see 3-4x the traffic on jump trails as you would any serious tech trail. It's a different skillset, it's probably less fun to ride with 5 friends, etc. I don't think tech is ever going away so I'm not super bothered by it.
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Sep 18, 2021 16:15
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You can take my rough tech from my numb dead legs. 
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Sep 18, 2021 17:18
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numptyboy posted:You could run a thinner ply tire up front to lose weight - eg 2.3 exo+ rear, 2.4 exo front or 2.4 doubledown rear, 2.5 exo+ front - that sort of thing. I've done some digging around and was thinking of something like: - Ikon 2.20 OR Rekon 2.20 as the back tire - Ardent Race 2.35 or 2.20 as the front or Rekon 2.30? Local LBS said that Rekon would still be fine for local climbs but I would need to be more careful on descending. Would 2.35 vs 2.2 in the front have much impact on handling? I think my goal is to really try and get something that would work best on fire roads and some pavement to get to the park. paberu fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Sep 18, 2021 |
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Sep 18, 2021 20:35
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The rekon 2.4 has bigger knobs than the 2.25 by quite a bit. I wasn't all that thrilled with the 2.25 rekons that came on my hei hei but I'm considering a 2.4 rear with a dissector front. I think rekon/rekon race or rekon/ikon would be good faster rolling f/r combos as well. Ardent race I wasn't ever thrilled with as a front tire- you need to really get it over on edge for it to grip. I've tended to prefer something with a little more even knob pattern although a modern bike with a dropper is a lot easier.
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Sep 18, 2021 22:00
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jamal posted:The rekon 2.4 has bigger knobs than the 2.25 by quite a bit. I wasn't all that thrilled with the 2.25 rekons that came on my hei hei but I'm considering a 2.4 rear with a dissector front. I think rekon/rekon race or rekon/ikon would be good faster rolling f/r combos as well. Kinda seconding this, I've been scarred and the idea of anything with 'Ardent' written on it that you have to lean hard on is filling me with a sort of cold dread. If it were me I'd go for a 2.4" Rekon front, and then pick from a narrower Rekon, Ikon or Rekon Race on a sliding scale of grip <> fast rolling.
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Sep 18, 2021 22:40
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2.4" Rekon front and 2.2 Ikon back it is then! Thanks for helping me get this narrowed down  .
paberu fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Sep 18, 2021 |
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Sep 18, 2021 22:43
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If you've got room I'd probably do the 2.35 ikon rear.
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Sep 18, 2021 23:17
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With the 2.3 Minion DHF I get 1cm middle tread and 5mm side tread clearance from the chainstays/BB. This is on a WTB STi30 Rim (30mm internal width). The Minion DHF measure out to be 60mm wide and 55.5 tall. I'm not sure if the 2.35 Ikons will clear the sides or not. paberu fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Sep 18, 2021 |
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Sep 18, 2021 23:32
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Rekon Race in the back wouldnt be bad. Ive never liked the 2.2 Ikon as a rear.
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Sep 18, 2021 23:58
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Jehde posted:You can take my rough tech from my numb dead legs.  Are Crankbros Stamps worth the premium? I had race face chesters but the bearing on one of them blew up and fell off while I was on a fast flow line yesterday lol.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:23
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I have had no reliability issues with mine but I'm not a huge fan of the design, the lack of pins on the inside middle area makes them feel weird imo. Not enough to get something different to replace them but if they disappeared I'd get something else. Not sure what though, maybe burgtechs?
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Sep 19, 2021 18:23
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RF atlas are the metal versions of the Chester and I like them quite a lot.
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Sep 19, 2021 18:31
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Steak posted:
i have a pair of stamp 1 composites on for the similar price as the chesters and the first thing i noticed was how much less the stamps hold me in place, i can rotate my foot very easily on the stamps compared to the chesters in the same shoes.
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Sep 19, 2021 18:36
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paberu posted:I've done some digging around and was thinking of something like: Think that sounds fine - as long as you like the grip you get. I wouldnt get too hung up on 2.35 vs 2.2 up front - just make sure they are fit for purpose and you arent running a bigger tire in the rear - I think this would feel pretty weird when turning. The same size front and rear is fine. Wider(and generally bigger) tires give better grip as you maximise surface in contact with the ground, but in return they cost you more effort to pedal.
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Sep 19, 2021 19:52
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OhsH posted:i have a pair of stamp 1 composites on for the similar price as the chesters and the first thing i noticed was how much less the stamps hold me in place, i can rotate my foot very easily on the stamps compared to the chesters in the same shoes. Yeah, the chesters are great for keeping your feet in place. They're also great for shredding your shins when you gently caress up VelociBacon posted:RF atlas are the metal versions of the Chester and I like them quite a lot. Are they the same width as the chesters? My only real gripe about the chesters (aside from them flying off the bike) are that they felt a tiny bit too small.
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Sep 19, 2021 21:17
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Steak posted:
grab a set of composite (unless you really want metal) kona wah wah 2s in large, that is where i ended up after having the same thoughts as you. OhsH fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Sep 20, 2021 |
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Sep 20, 2021 02:45
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What would cause a dropper post to rise incredibly slowly unless tapped with light pressure on the front or back of the seat?
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Sep 20, 2021 02:50
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Psychepath posted:What would cause a dropper post to rise incredibly slowly unless tapped with light pressure on the front or back of the seat? Probably something has shook loose and now it's slightly misaligned. I'd remove it and see if anything has come partially undone.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:00
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I did the marji gesick and now everything hurts witness a heart rate profile of pure sadness 
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Sep 20, 2021 04:31
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Wet season is here and I have no fenders! Any suggestions on cheap ziptie-able front and rears for a 29er?
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Sep 20, 2021 04:46
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Psychepath posted:What would cause a dropper post to rise incredibly slowly unless tapped with light pressure on the front or back of the seat? Low on air? Most have a valve under the seat clamp (gotta remove saddle and clampy bits) you can fill up with a shock valve. Mine needs a fill 1x season, won't go all the way up or will need a little bump to get it to the top when it starts getting low.
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Sep 20, 2021 05:07
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Psychepath posted:What would cause a dropper post to rise incredibly slowly unless tapped with light pressure on the front or back of the seat? Take it apart and lube the moving bits then add air as suggested. Some aren't serviceable with a valve which sucks. My old bontrager was like this. Lubing it helped limp it along for a little while longer at least.
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Sep 20, 2021 11:20
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Are there any bikes coming stock with 1x gearing and dropper posts at 1k or under right now?
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Sep 20, 2021 22:15
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