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I was actually kind of curious about the logistics of that myself, but every DRZ400 I’ve ever seen has come with the brake line looping up above the MC before running down the fork. I just assumed there was some method to the madness given the amount of things I apparently haven’t learned about bikes yet can fill a book.
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Sep 15, 2021 02:20
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I mean it's most likely fine to loop it up top because there should be no air in the line anyway. It's just that it adds a potential source of annoyance if you have to bleed the lines, so if there's no good reason to do it, I wouldn't.
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Sep 15, 2021 02:22
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Sagebrush posted:That is a hydraulic line. Why would you run the hydraulic line in a loop above the master cylinder? If any air gets into the line, it will now end up in a place from which it can never escape. However this works? The length of the hose and the position of the guides on the fork kind of look like it was meant to be routed like this  Edit: I mean it's only got a little more than half the suspension travel as that Honda and it works alright as is, it just looks like it's supposed to have that loop to take up the slack in the hose rather than the hose going kind of zig-zag between the guides when it compresses. Dog Case fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Sep 15, 2021 |
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Sep 15, 2021 02:24
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A picture would be helpful because we can't see inside your head, thankfully.
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Sep 15, 2021 02:44
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On the subject of brakes: Is there a thing that you can connect to brake bleeder nipples that won’t constantly slip off and immediately make you hate life? My bleeding kit came with these little rubber hoods but they’re worthless. I have a different attachment which is just a plastic .. needle type thing that I kind of jammed into the end of the nipple and it kind of stays put with friction but it’ll dislodge if I pull the tube with any accidental force. I don’t know if there’s something that professionals use that clips on or what? Or does everyone just curse as the hose slips off repeatedly and subsequently try to do the job as quickly as possible? Oh anyway, the real question is, if this exists what is the search term. I refuse to believe that rubber hood thing is the height of brake nipple technology in 2021.
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Sep 15, 2021 02:55
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zip ties homie
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Sep 15, 2021 02:59
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gently caress how did I not think of literally the most obvious solution? Thank youuu
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Sep 15, 2021 04:00
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Throw all those little hoods and needles away, keep the 2 and 3 way barbs. Here’s how I bled the brakes on my wife’s car this weekend, after hours with the hand pump: Topped up the reservoir to the brim, ran a clear tube from the bleeder into a 3/4 full bottle of fluid, just barely cracked the bleeder and then pumped the brake slowly and steadily till I stopped seeing bubbles in the line. The mc pushes more out on the closing stroke than it sucks in through the bleeder on the return. I’m pretty sure it works with a bike too, buddy of mine swears by it. I was about to lose my mind after yet another hour of pumping on the harbor freight mityvac clone, and this finished it in like 3 minutes per wheel.
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Sep 15, 2021 04:11
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I pretty much have done it like it's a car. Apply even pressure on the brakes and close the bleeder before the brake lever is fully squeezed. Do it a few times. Make sure the reservoir has enough fluid to support it. Make sure the brake isn't released at all during the process or you will suck air in. I just use the little bottle so fluid doesn't go everywhere. Well on a car I never have a hand so I just open the bleeder and walk away. Gravity eventually does it. If I have a hand I have the person do the same thing with the foot brake. I usually use a closed wrench or offset wrench to lightly open and close the bleeder during the process, takes less dexterity when you are managing a lovely bleeder bottle and using your other hand on the brakes. Takes a few minutes. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Sep 15, 2021 |
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Sep 15, 2021 07:09
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Slavvy posted:I'll add to the above: people often put on a weaksauce smear of grease and wonder why the bearings last a month. You want the rollers and cages to be absolutely packed with grease, no metal visible basically, and a good 5mm thick layer on all the races. Most of it will get pushed out of the way under normal operation and can't find it's way back in so you want to get full coverage. Have you thought about writing like a picture book for generic motorcycle teardown and assembly, like a generic Haynes manual for a motorcycles, and selling it? It would probably sell.
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Sep 15, 2021 07:17
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w/r/t the lovely vac bleeders: I don’t actually use the vacuum pump. It sucks and it was way faster for me to use use the hose and can and do the crack-bleeder-squeeze brake-close bleeder-release brake thing than it was to even unpack and set up the vacuum. I only mention it because it came with a handy set of tubing, a reservoir that I can stick to metal so it doesn’t spill all over the place, and those little needle things which have (to date) been the only things that have worked at all any nipple I tried. Doing a full brake flush on the DRZ took WAY less time than I expected and I don’t mind doing it the non-car way, except when the loving hose pops off for the 9th time and causes me to yell something unfortunate and frighten the children playing in my neighbour’s yard. I’ll try the zipties this weekend though. And I just realized I also have little itty bitty spring clamps which may also do the business.
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Sep 15, 2021 11:16
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Martytoof posted:I don’t actually use the vacuum pump. It sucks Well duh.
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Sep 15, 2021 11:25
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It’s 6:30am and I just sleep-walked right into that one.
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Sep 15, 2021 11:36
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The vac pumps always pull a ton of air through the bleeder threads in my experience. I’m a bleeder-crack-and-pump guy
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Sep 15, 2021 13:34
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:
It's more honest I guess, but love-em-and-leave-em guy sounds nicer.
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Sep 15, 2021 14:09
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The nice thing about a bike is you can reach both the bleeder and the respective master cylinder at the same time. At least on most bikes.
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Sep 15, 2021 14:19
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I like to do the front first because while it's not difficult it certainly CAN be annoying if you have one caliper and it's on the left side of the bike. It makes the rear much more enjoyable to pump by contrast. 
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Sep 15, 2021 14:32
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:Have you thought about writing like a picture book for generic motorcycle teardown and assembly, like a generic Haynes manual for a motorcycles, and selling it? It would probably sell. I'd buy it.
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Sep 15, 2021 18:43
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Chilton's used to publish a few general moto repair books. There's another publisher called Motorbooks Workshop that has several.
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Sep 15, 2021 18:56
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On the subject of moto repair books, I’m buying a service manual for my new Honda and the printer suggested the Honda Common Service Manual as well. Is it worth spending ~$80 on one? Edit: Lemmy at revzilla gave it high praise BabelFish fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Sep 17, 2021 |
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Sep 17, 2021 08:53
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BabelFish posted:the printer suggested  https://twitter.com/ppathole/status/1116670170980859905?lang=en I've never seen that particular manual or read any of it but the description suggests it is to give you a baseline of knowledge and terms specifically so you can someday be a Honda powersports tech. The shop manual specific to the bike is absolutely worth every penny or  efforts but you already might have the knowledge of the "Common Service Manual".
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Sep 17, 2021 13:30
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Anyone have tips for freeing a frozen clutch pack? 2003 R1 engine in a lotus style frame, not sure if I can pull the cover without pulling the whole motor so I'm looking for alternatives. I have a bungee cord pulling the clutch arm to relieve pressure. Ran the engine for a bit, in neutral, to get things up to temp earlier. I'll probably try to run it in gear carefully with the wheels off the ground tomorrow.
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Sep 18, 2021 23:20
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NitroSpazzz posted:Anyone have tips for freeing a frozen clutch pack? 2003 R1 engine in a lotus style frame, not sure if I can pull the cover without pulling the whole motor so I'm looking for alternatives. You could try warming it up, bring the revs up and just clunk it into first with the clutch pulled and the wheels on the ground. You could also try 2-300ml's of kerosene in the engine oil, as long as you don't put it under any load while it's in there and change the oil straight away after it frees up. There's basically no 'good' or 'right' way to do this, you're pretty much down to choosing your flavor of hail mary, with the almost certainty that you'll have to pull the clutch out after anyway because there's a good chance it won't grab properly after you break it loose; often the friction material comes off the backing plates because it's so baked onto the steels.
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Sep 18, 2021 23:40
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Sounds like it's time to order a replacement and see if I can pull the cover. Thanks
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Sep 18, 2021 23:52
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Can I get a sanity check on this: if I tighten up my exhaust header nuts by feel, and go for a ride, and then after that ride I put the same amount of force into them with the same spanner and they turn some more, then is it reasonable to conclude that they a) weren't on tight enough, or at least b) definitely weren't on tight enough to do any damage to the head?
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Sep 19, 2021 20:11
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They often loosen after the first ride because everything gets hot, expands, then contracts back down and everything shifts a little.
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Sep 19, 2021 20:19
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It's always a good idea to check any nuts and bolts you were messing with after the first ride or two because yeah, everything just kinda shifts and settles as the machine moves.
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Sep 19, 2021 20:23
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I'll just keep an eye on them for a while then and try to stop sweating it, cheers.
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Sep 19, 2021 20:50
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Renaissance Robot posted:Can I get a sanity check on this: if I tighten up my exhaust header nuts by feel, and go for a ride, and then after that ride I put the same amount of force into them with the same spanner and they turn some more, then is it reasonable to conclude that they a) weren't on tight enough, or at least b) definitely weren't on tight enough to do any damage to the head? Does your bike have a crush washer\gasket between the head and header? It would be hard to overtighten. The crush washer deforming under your wrench would feel sus as hell for a while.
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Sep 19, 2021 21:24
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Two questions. 1. It looks like one of the threaded fairing mounting holes in my aluminum subframe on the DRZ is stripped. I must have done it but I’ll be damned when since I haven’t been super tight with any bodywork on since I bought it. Suppose it could have just been already somewhat weakened and the threads just gave way the last time I just put the panel on. ANYWAY, is there anything I can do in aluminum short of tapping a larger bolt? I don’t love the idea of an odd-size fastener I have to keep track of but I mean I will if it’s the least stupid way. Right now I have a nut on the fastener on the other side of the subframe but that’s just as lame. I’d try for a helicoil or something but it’s relatively thin aluminum. Probably good for like four or five threads. 2. I need to get a new triple tree clamp bolt since I managed to round off the head and had to force it open with vice grips. I want to get a longer one to mount some tripe-mounted handguards. I’m not sure if I should be looking for the kind of bolt where the threads start halfway down, or just a regular fully threaded bolt, or if it doesn’t matter? I feel like the half-threaded one makes the most sense since I’m not sure how I’m expect to cinch the clamp together if the threads extend through both sections.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:05
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1. Rivet nuts 2. It makes no difference where the thread stops, fully threaded will likely be easier as there's no risk of bottoming out and you can cut it to the exact length you want, however I'm of the opinion that attaching anything via the pinch bolts is lovely and bad; if you aren't confident without a torque wrench in your pocket then you're completely hosed when it comes to tightening something critical while it also has to hold some flappy poo poo that was never meant to be there. I think if you want hand guards, the sane and normal option is like acerbis or whatever that bolt to a plug in the end of the bar and a clamp halfway down the bar.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:25
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Didn’t know rivet nuts even existed, thanks. I have Cycra probend handguards but had a real hard time getting the clamps to line up right on the bars. Absolutely no luck with Cycra’s clamps even though they’re supposed to work together, either the clamps were at a weird angle to the bar when the guards were sitting at the desired angle, or if I forced the guards to the clamps then the bar end was at a weird angle. I grabbed their triple tree mounts and they lined up perfectly first try so I guess I’ll still try using them, but I’m open to putting them on the bars as god intended if I can figure out wtf is going wrong.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:34
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Ok so hand guards fitting perfectly on the first try is basically impossible and not something anyone can do afaik. You need to get super brutal and just bend and twist them until they work and stay on there; there are three million different kinds of bar out there and they can't possibly account for all of them, you are expected to just make them fit. Posting a picture would be really helpful but even then it's 90% likely the answer is just bend and force them until they fit.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:59
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That sound brutal but I can give it a shot. I have the triple mounts on there right now but ill give it the ole college try in the next week or so. I need to replace the screws either way since I cant reliably feed the oem ones into the torque wrench anymore :/
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Sep 20, 2021 |
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Sep 20, 2021 04:11
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There's this contrast between doing factory repairs and servicing etc, which is like a soothing meditative surgery, and doing aftermarket stuff, which is roughly like ork engineering but with more violence and swearing. I have a permanent hate for nearly all aftermarket farkles because they tend to fit so badly and turn my job from surgeon to blacksmith.
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Sep 20, 2021 04:15
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Handguards take modification to get on, as slavvy mentioned all bars are different so you need to bend then to fit the mounts and bars. My acerbis guards needed to be bent but eventually fit perfectly. Just take your time and go slowly. A vise made it easier. If they connect to the ends of your bars, you really want them to sit square on the bar ends and not angled. As for the stripped fastener heads, are you using six or twelve point sockets/wrenches? I switched to all six point and I don't have an issue with rounding off fasteners anymore.
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Sep 20, 2021 04:37
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Yeah 12pt is for chumps and I'm not entirely sure why they exist, there are occasionally 12pt fasteners but they're stuff like cylinder head studs, conrod bolts and so on that you can just buy individual sockets for.
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Sep 20, 2021 05:26
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Slavvy posted:Yeah 12pt is for chumps and I'm not entirely sure why they exist, there are occasionally 12pt fasteners but they're stuff like cylinder head studs, conrod bolts and so on that you can just buy individual sockets for. They probably don't make sense for bikes but if you're crammed somewhere awkward and have zero access, 12 point (especially long) sockets are a godsend and some jobs would be a huge pain in the rear end without them. They go on so much easier and when you're completely blind and doing it all by feel and can't afford to drop it, you just want it to go on the fastener first try.
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Sep 20, 2021 06:00
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All 6pt sockets, and meticulously use the correct ones (not scrub tier SAE-on-metric-because-"close-enough" lack of effort) either. All I can figure is that maybe they started rounding earlier and I didn't insert a socket deep or completely enough at one point, or the PO started rounding them off or something. At any rate, the damage is done. So yeah I mean it was a good wrenching weekend but looking back at it I did strip at least two fasteners. The head of the triple bolt and that stupid frame fairing fastener. It's been a long time since I had to feel that sinking sensation of having your wrench/tool just slip under pressure because the metal gave way :| Unrelated question: What is the gas-flooding failure mode for a gravity non-vacuum carb? If you leave the petcock on and the carb float doesn't seal properly? Trying to think of what else. Also, I'm not a huge fan of farkles either. I've done a few quality of life mods like USB power or phone mounts but for the most part I like to think I've steered clear of farkles. The hand protector thing is 100% just me wanting to see what riding with a tiny bit of wind protection is like, and I guess maybe saving a lever in case of a parking lot crash. The OEM bars are 7/8 and I'm on a 1-1/8 unfortunately but c'est la vie some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Sep 20, 2021 |
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Sep 20, 2021 13:29
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Martytoof posted:Unrelated question: What is the gas-flooding failure mode for a gravity non-vacuum carb? If you leave the petcock on and the carb float doesn't seal properly? Trying to think of what else. Someone correct me if I'm wrong: in a gravity fed system with no vacuum so the petcock is basically just a ball valve, if the petcock is left open and the carb's float valves don't seal, you'll end up with gas flowing out of the carb's overflow tube and puddling under the bike. If that overflow is blocked, fuel will end up pooling in the intake or the motor, whichever is lower
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Sep 20, 2021 16:31
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