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Class Warcraft posted:Apparently to some people pre-supporting your minis means entombing them in loving tree supports. Jesus. I really need to do some screenshots/photos of how I print my minis nowadays. For the vast majority of them, I just attach them to a base in 3D Builder (after kitbashing if needed), plop them in Lychee Slicer, select the "Prepare" option and just tell it to search for islands on the "Detailed" setting, automatically add the supports (with a few that you do have to manually add here and there) maybe add a few supports of my own if I think they're needed, and call it a day (using a flex plate really helps as I can print them with their bases flat on the build plate). I've had very few failures thus far with this method, and there's been a few minis that have printed quite successfully with like 10-11 supports in total. The only downside (YMMV, depending on how you store and transport your minis) is that the base has to have a solid, flat bottom to it. I've tried printing a few bases flat on the build plate that had holes pre-added for magnetization and they almost always failed. So I end up kitbashing bases as well, and luckily I game at home mostly these days, so it's just a matter of putting them in a little container and walking out of my room with 'em to the kitchen table. E: I think I shared this link before, but here's the article I read that got me printing my miniatures using this technique. The author mentions tilting their minis if they're crouching/running, but I've never bothered with that; you just need to manually add a few more supports to the parts that are off of the base or leaning forward over it. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Sep 8, 2021 |
# ? Sep 8, 2021 15:08 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 01:42 |
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I had a co-worker print me off a bunch of warmaster bases on a resin 3D printer, using Elegoo water washable resin - they look good, but a few have cured slightly curved. Can you do the "hot water -> straighten -> cool water" trick on 3D Printed resin? I'd likely just heat them in water (or a heat gun maybe), and put a heavy book on them so they stay flat. Not sure if these resins behave differently! Edit: I bit the bullet and just did it and it seemed to work fine! Hopefully they didn't lose any strength but these aren't gonna be handled that often so BaronVanAwesome fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Sep 10, 2021 |
# ? Sep 9, 2021 20:19 |
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MMF dropped their patreon competing TRIBES service today. No creators on their yet that I'm interested in subscribing to, but watching it to see how it fares in general.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 21:08 |
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So, I have four or five FDM printers that I am planning to get up and running (or sell) and I'm wondering what would be good to create for different kinds of props to use at the gaming table that aren't strictly just containers and minis. Since the majority of what I do at the moment is online, I have been craving adding an actual physical component back into it to better represent the kind of gameplay that I want to present and experience. Part of that I think is some kind of camera rig to use, but I'm wondering what other related 3d-printable stuff that I can make that can help in service to that 'combining physical and virtual space' thing that I'm angling towards. Is this crazy talk, or are there any items which might be useful for that (camera rigging aside)?
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 04:48 |
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Dice towers and photography sweeps are always good to have
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 05:43 |
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There's a brand new kickstarter for 3d printing RPG puzzles and props. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printinggoeseveron/puzzles-and-props
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 06:25 |
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aldantefax posted:So, I have four or five FDM printers that I am planning to get up and running (or sell) and I'm wondering what would be good to create for different kinds of props to use at the gaming table that aren't strictly just containers and minis. Since the majority of what I do at the moment is online, I have been craving adding an actual physical component back into it to better represent the kind of gameplay that I want to present and experience. Part of that I think is some kind of camera rig to use, but I'm wondering what other related 3d-printable stuff that I can make that can help in service to that 'combining physical and virtual space' thing that I'm angling towards. Is this crazy talk, or are there any items which might be useful for that (camera rigging aside)? Well... status effect markers, Hold tokens, and suchlike can be simple designs easily printed.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 08:54 |
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aldantefax posted:So, I have four or five FDM printers that I am planning to get up and running (or sell) and I'm wondering what would be good to create for different kinds of props to use at the gaming table that aren't strictly just containers and minis. Since the majority of what I do at the moment is online, I have been craving adding an actual physical component back into it to better represent the kind of gameplay that I want to present and experience. Part of that I think is some kind of camera rig to use, but I'm wondering what other related 3d-printable stuff that I can make that can help in service to that 'combining physical and virtual space' thing that I'm angling towards. Is this crazy talk, or are there any items which might be useful for that (camera rigging aside)? This seems almost too obvious to mention but, what about terrain?
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 09:25 |
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Are there any good guides about digital kitbashing out there? Both for meshmixer, or similar, and Blender.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 17:11 |
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aldantefax posted:So, I have four or five FDM printers that I am planning to get up and running (or sell) and I'm wondering what would be good to create for different kinds of props to use at the gaming table that aren't strictly just containers and minis. Since the majority of what I do at the moment is online, I have been craving adding an actual physical component back into it to better represent the kind of gameplay that I want to present and experience. Part of that I think is some kind of camera rig to use, but I'm wondering what other related 3d-printable stuff that I can make that can help in service to that 'combining physical and virtual space' thing that I'm angling towards. Is this crazy talk, or are there any items which might be useful for that (camera rigging aside)? These simple blood spatter tokens were a hit with RPG games & anything mini-based. Enemy killed? Remove the mini and drop a blood splatter. We used it under a mini to mark wounded, as well. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3122240 It's unexpectedly engaging/scenic because it kind of paints a picture of how the battle moved/progressed.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 18:44 |
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Someone (internetjunky?) was pimping siraytech grey so thanks for that, I checked out their site and got 2kg for about 70 shipped, way less than the 100+ it would have cost from amazon. By the time it arrives my replacement screen should be here, while I'm tinkering around I'll see if I can't figure out a flex plate as well.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 21:37 |
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Guest2553 posted:Someone (internetjunky?) was pimping siraytech grey so thanks for that, I checked out their site and got 2kg for about 70 shipped, way less than the 100+ it would have cost from amazon. It was probably me, and thanks for mentioning it because it made me check out their site again to see if they have it back in Canada and they do finally! One of the best resins out there for miniatures.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 22:41 |
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Hold off on using tribes on myminifactory if they have a Patreon, it's real rough at the moment any I at $30 to come tell you this. In theory it'll be great one day as myminifactory handles distribution really well, but it's te rough around the edges ofor now
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# ? Sep 14, 2021 00:07 |
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w00tmonger posted:Hold off on using tribes on myminifactory if they have a Patreon, it's real rough at the moment any I at $30 to come tell you this. What're the issues right now with it?
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# ? Sep 14, 2021 18:55 |
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Class Warcraft posted:What're the issues right now with it? Poor navigation to tribes, links aren't really set up to view a specific tribe easily/directly Payment processing was weird and I had to fake where I lived for it to accept payment Doesn't really seem to offer anything that isn't already on Patreon. Just seems like it's a little rough around the edges and as someone selling minis, beta testing their new Patreon equivalent just isn't worth the hassle
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# ? Sep 14, 2021 19:47 |
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Painted some prints today I wanted to try out contrast on 3D prints. It's OK, not great, but it's quick. What wasn't quick was getting the primer down. The white stynylrez wasn't really working well. It took me around 6 passes to get an even coat. I also need to figure out a good process for cleaning off the strings (or hone in my printer to not make them). For terrain, I'm totally happy with how this came out. It's not particularly great, but it's not bad. It's easier to paint than laser cut stuff.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 05:12 |
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I use contrast paints over an airbrushed pre-shade to paint almost the entirety (excluding metallics and effect paints) of my plague guard , including the vehicles.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 05:23 |
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Here's a literal 3D printed tabletop that I've finally finished. The painting just took me an afternoon but the printing took about a month. It measures 60" x 44" and the tiles are interchangeable on an OpenLock frame.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 06:24 |
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Chainclaw posted:Painted some prints today It shouldn't take six passes to get an even coat. Two should be great. What was the primer doing? I had a bottle of primer that wasn't working well, spent ages putting up with it, but never got it to "just work" like people insisted it should. It was a bad bottle. Got a new bottle and it just worked. Now I buy tiny primer bottles. They still last a good while. e: gently caress off with the barn sized 3d printers and make the second gen of saturn-sized printers already
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 09:54 |
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White primer, Vallejo specifically, is such a pain in the rear end through my airbrush I don't even gently caress with it anymore. If I'm zenithaling I just basecoat black or grey and use white ink as my shader.Bucnasti posted:I use contrast paints over an airbrushed pre-shade to paint almost the entirety (excluding metallics and effect paints) of my plague guard , including the vehicles. That's a cool not-BTR. Could you go through this process? I'm about to start some Soviet vehicles and this would speed it up.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 12:46 |
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Eediot Jedi posted:It shouldn't take six passes to get an even coat. Two should be great. What was the primer doing? If I didn't plan to use contrast paint, 2 would have been enough primer for things to stick. I wanted a really even base coat for the contrast. I'm also still learning the airbrush, when I tried to do leadbelcher on one of those barricades through it, it was real bad.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 14:23 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:White primer, Vallejo specifically, is such a pain in the rear end through my airbrush I don't even gently caress with it anymore. If I'm zenithaling I just basecoat black or grey and use white ink as my shader. I wish I had taken pictures during the process, this one was mostly just to test the techniques and colors, so I'll try to take more images of the next ones. The basic process for the DUKW goes like this: 1. Prime Black - I use Stynelrez black primer 2. Using an airbrush I do zenethil/panel shading with white ink. Hitting from a downward angle and focusing on the center of panels. I try not to leave any pure black, getting everything a little gray or the color won't show up at all. You want something like this: 3. Then I spray Contrast Militarum Green through the airbrush over the entire model. This gives you a very nice even coat without any streaking or pooling. Then weather, detail and decals from there. Edit: If you don't have an airbrush you could probably get the same or similar effect by using a soft makeup brush to drybrush white over over a black primer and then use a large flat brush (like 1/2 inch) to apply your contrast coat. Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Sep 15, 2021 |
# ? Sep 15, 2021 17:49 |
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Thanks for that. Never considered spraying contrast paint. I've got an issue that's cropped up with layer separation, as seen below I've always had some issues with support connections, to the point where light supports never, and I mean never work regardless of how small a miniature it is. The raft prints fine, the supports are there, but the contact points consistently fail unless I overdue it in support thickness. The models above are 10mm and you can see almost none of the supports are making actual connection. Is this a layer or speed setting or something else? I'd like to get it fixed as I have a big 15mm project on the horizon but I don't want half my models missing legs or arms.
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 02:42 |
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Quick question, is there a 3d printing thread not related to miniatures?
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 07:53 |
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The Demilich posted:Quick question, is there a 3d printing thread not related to miniatures? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973815
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 13:30 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:I've always had some issues with support connections, to the point where light supports never, and I mean never work regardless of how small a miniature it is. The raft prints fine, the supports are there, but the contact points consistently fail unless I overdue it in support thickness. The models above are 10mm and you can see almost none of the supports are making actual connection. Is this a layer or speed setting or something else? I'd like to get it fixed as I have a big 15mm project on the horizon but I don't want half my models missing legs or arms.
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 14:41 |
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Danke comrade!
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# ? Sep 17, 2021 00:07 |
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So I've been working on a custom Flesh Eaters kill team for 40k and I'm at an impass design wise and I'm wondering if anyone might be able to help. Here's a pic of a few of the members to know what I'm doing (WIP): So, the thing I'm hung up on is the chapter badge. The chapter badge looks like this: I tried doing transfers of this and it just wasn't working. Could anyone create this chapter badge as a two piece stl for printing? The fact is I can't paint this, I don't have the precision to do it and I'd like to not ruin my work with piss poor line work that looks different on each model. Being able to print a tiny curved piece of resin I can just glue on after painting seems far far easier in the long run and will actually allow me to finish this project with a smile. I have no idea how intensive this request is and I do apologize for my ignorance in that regard. If it was cs2 photoshop/illustrator I would just live trace the png (my image is a screenshot btw, couldn't get the png to attach properly) to create a vector file and then I guess theoretically upload that vector into a sculpting program if possible and just add a curve to the object that matches the astartes shoulders. I searched to see if this is a common thing and "How to import a 2D vector into a 3D shape in Tinkercad" came up so I guess it's possible. It might be easier to just edit away the mass of the shoulder though in an already existing file though, which if that is true then here's a free file I found where the badge has already been sculpted: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505755 Like I said, I'm not too in the know about editing yet for this hobby so please let me know if this is something that is easy or actually decently hard. I'd be thankful for any assistance.
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 21:55 |
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That looks like Charlie Brown's shirt
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 22:38 |
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I believe that it's fairly simple if you have and .svg. There are loads of tutorials for it out there, especially if you want to slap in on a shoulder pad. I'll try making it on monday, just because I'm interested in basic 3d modelling like this.
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 23:07 |
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The Demilich posted:So I've been working on a custom Flesh Eaters kill team for 40k and I'm at an impass design wise and I'm wondering if anyone might be able to help. It wouldn’t be that hard to sculpt - like 10 minutes of work from someone who knows what they’re doing. Or you can make a stencil using paper and airbrush em on.
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# ? Sep 19, 2021 04:28 |
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Amphigory posted:Hi folks, sorry to just blunder in, but I'm looking for a bit of advice Just bumping this in case anyone can help
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# ? Sep 19, 2021 20:27 |
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Silhouette posted:That looks like Charlie Brown's shirt You'd figure that would be the Lamenters chapter's badge, given how many times they've missed the football and eaten poo poo. The Flesh Eaters other chapter badge, which I'd absolutely love to use but can't freepaint either, looks like this: Electric Hobo posted:I believe that it's fairly simple if you have and .svg. There are loads of tutorials for it out there, especially if you want to slap in on a shoulder pad. Oh hell yeah, that's good to know; also a huge thank you for giving it a try! Class Warcraft posted:It wouldn’t be that hard to sculpt - like 10 minutes of work from someone who knows what they’re doing. Or you can make a stencil using paper and airbrush em on. I primarily use an airbrush so I had this idea as well but I couldn't get it to work. I was even using this sheet to try to make transfers but I just kept failing at getting it to look decent. I will however try to make these flaming mouths with a stencil (for the basic shape)
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# ? Sep 19, 2021 22:46 |
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There's a video on creating custom shoulder pads in blender. Seems like a lot of work but you only need to do it once I guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7Ufd9V_r0w
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# ? Sep 19, 2021 23:22 |
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The Demilich posted:So I've been working on a custom Flesh Eaters kill team for 40k and I'm at an impass design wise and I'm wondering if anyone might be able to help. If you're on windows this is pretty straightforward in 3d builder. This video is insanely quiet, but it shows the steps pretty clearly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apsD_MP5fgs Here's the rough result of a few minutes of tinkering:
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 06:10 |
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The Demilich posted:Flesh Eaters Where have I seen this before...?
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 06:14 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:Where have I seen this before...? Act nachral, Boyz. we're nearly in.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 08:30 |
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The Demilich posted:Oh hell yeah, that's good to know; also a huge thank you for giving it a try! It's curved and sized so it should fit on a normal shoulder pad, but I haven't tried. Both pieces are one file, but that's not a problem when you support it. Now to do it with all the chaos chapters, and make the big bucks selling stls! I just realized that I have no idea where to host files anymore, so pm me an email address, and I'll send you the file.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 19:16 |
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Electric Hobo posted:Well, I made something! Looks good. People have been nailed selling chapter iconography so tread lightly
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 19:35 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 01:42 |
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w00tmonger posted:Looks good. People have been nailed selling chapter iconography so tread lightly But it makes it possible for me to make an icon for my Kill Team marine guys, and that's pretty nice.
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# ? Sep 20, 2021 19:49 |