|
punishedkissinger posted:whats the cost in resin for something like that? The cost of resin printed models will forever make you question buying traditional models ever again. The files for a big theme of models is like $15 tops on Patreon, then you can print the whole batch for like $5 You can print half an army for a $50 bottle of resin on a $200 printer nowadays
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 06:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 07:20 |
|
|
w00tmonger posted:The cost of resin printed models will forever make you question buying traditional models ever again. The files for a big theme of models is like $15 tops on Patreon, then you can print the whole batch for like $5 If we're talking about armies though, no one seems to do anything in print for major factions tho
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 06:15
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:If we're talking about armies though, no one seems to do anything in print for major factions tho Do you mean copyrighted stuff that might get them sued by GW?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 10:57
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:3d printed Barrow Wights by Monstrous Encounters: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-barrow-wights-unit-129779 thanks! Yours look fantastic
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 11:23
|
|
|
Lasting Damage posted:Verisimilidude, bro you are a loving machine Thanks! Here's the last from the set.    And the whole set.  Really enjoyed painting these!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 13:57
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:If we're talking about armies though, no one seems to do anything in print for major factions tho Depends on what factions you play. A lot of the Warhammer factions have a very distinct aesthetic that makes it hard to make third party models for without getting lawyered by GW - Space Marines and Stormcast being the most obvious. But... a lot of factions are more generic, and are very easy to find 3rd party models for, like Imperial Guard, Soulblight, Flesheaters, Tyranids, and so on.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 14:01
|
|
|
 Got a real urge to try eyes at midnight last night. Tried out micron brush pens with a green followed by a black. The iris worked a bit better on her left eye because I had to touch up the sclera on the right. A touch of reikland underneath each eye toned down the crazy eye and I don't think it's half bad.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 14:08
|
|
|
good looking eyes imo
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 14:41
|
|
|
I didn't realize, one of the minis I bought has clear plastic (like, a fireball type thing). I assume I need to do something different for that? Can I still prime it the way the beginner tutorials tell me, or should I get another mini?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 15:34
|
|
|
CitizenKeen posted:I didn't realize, one of the minis I bought has clear plastic (like, a fireball type thing). I assume I need to do something different for that? Can I still prime it the way the beginner tutorials tell me, or should I get another mini? If you don't mind losing the clear effect than just prime as normal. If you want to keep it then you can leave the clear plastic off while you prime.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 15:38
|
|
|
A bit of painters tape or sticky tack works great for masking off areas you don't want to spray over. For those clear mini bits, I've gotten good results from doing a heavy drybrush, usually several layers of built up color. For example, this flame on this dragon is clear plastic, with a really heavy yellow drybrush, followed by some lighter orange layers, then a matte varnish over everything. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 15:56
|
|
|
And if you can't remove the clear plastic piece, mask it off with something. Dollar store silly putty works, but even just wrapping the part in paper or masking tape ought to be enough to keep it from getting primer on it. As for painting, inks and washes will help color it the way you want without losing the transparent look. Don't be afraid to hit the area with multiple layers of washes, either, depending upon how strong you want the color to be. Contrast paints might work as well, but I personally haven't tried that, so I can't say one way or another.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 16:00
|
|
|
Crap, okay. Was going for easy wins, but I guess I'm going for masking on my first priming. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 16:22
|
|
|
CitizenKeen posted:Crap, okay. Was going for easy wins, but I guess I'm going for masking on my first priming. Thanks! One of my kids got one of those minis with a clear fireball, contrast paints and inks both work great. As other posters have said, pick up some silly putty from the dollar store and use that as a mask when priming. drybrushing with a cool black can help to make the smoke look sooty if you want. Remember that fire is highlighted in reverse, you want the brighter colors in recesses and darker colors/smoke towards the surface.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 17:10
|
|
|
Sulka and Mariusz from Super Fantasy Brawl
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
KingMob posted:Sulka and Mariusz from Super Fantasy Brawl oooo those are cool models. You did a really clean job on them where they look like disney villains. Also that blend on the sword is pretty crispy. Nice.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 19:30
|
|
|
KingMob posted:Sulka and Mariusz from Super Fantasy Brawl This is one of those posts where I'm hitting the "?" to check out what else you've posted that I've obviously missed before. Excellence.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 19:32
|
|
|
Those are clean as heck, very nice
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 19:34
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:This is one of those posts where I'm hitting the "?" to check out what else you've posted that I've obviously missed before. Excellence. I did the same thing lol, then saw the marvel models and went "yup I remember these"
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 19:40
|
|
|
Thanks, all!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
Any know of a good guide for a ghostly flame effect. Not just a nighthaunt fade but more of a inverse highlight like fire I tried airbrushing blue ink over white but I think I had my pressure too low because the spray was too broad and I couldn't control it. Just curious if there is a better way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 20:12
|
|
|
Just posting for glaring errors, and also in case I get into this it might be nice to look back. Just black  Zenithal (sp?)  I'm just looking for basic level feedback. Way too much primer? Way too little? Learn how to take photos of my minis with my phone? Just looking for a constructive "Well, your first mistake..." I used Krylon ColorMaxx Paint + Primer Indoor/Outdoor Gloss Black and Gloss White. Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 20:32
|
|
|
personally I would go harder on the white from directly overhead, but that's just me. It looks good otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 20:45
|
|
|
Do you have access to an airbush or paint sprayer? I ask because you're doubling primer by using it for white, and it's a second opportunity to lose detail or get fuzzy. Spraying white ink can be a lot more reliable, and even a cheap junk spray setup will get you more reliable results than a can. If not, there's nothing wrong with how you're doing it - it'll just take some extra caution along the way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 21:05
|
|
|
Nope, just cans for now. I'm just following along with a video that seemed competent. I'm not prepared to really spend more than $20 (edit: more) or so until I can show my spouse some borderline successes. I have a habit of investing in hobbies but not running with them.
CitizenKeen fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Sep 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 21:08
|
|
|
Yeah no need for an airbrush if you aren't sure you'll stick with the hobby, but I think it should be one of the first major purchases anyone makes if they plan to paint minis for a while. But for zenithal priming you can get by with rattle cans. Just try to be very light on the trigger with the white and apply several thin coats from directly overhead. The goal should be that the only areas that are true black are deep in the recesses.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
You should be fine with cans, I did it that way for a very long time. In that case, I'd suggest painting the white first and then black second. That should require less primer for coverage, but give about the same effect. Getting under the figure for the black might require some creativity, but it can be done. Don't be afraid to touch it up manually with a brush!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 21:17
|
|
|
Awesome, thanks! I don't have any expectation I'll paint beyond tabletop quality for a long time. While I'd love to get good, my current goals are functional and not terrible.moths posted:You should be fine with cans, I did it that way for a very long time. I hadn't thought about doing it that way. I'll try that with some warforged I picked up. Going to focus on mooks before player characters.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 21:18
|
|
|
Something else you can try is priming white and then dousing the figure in a black or dark brown wash. You can also drybrush white over that after it's dry. Essentially the zenethal priming is just a way to pre-shade, and there's a few fun ways to accomplish that with whatever tools you have on-hand. Please keep the thread updated though, watching posters go from "new" to "much better than me" is one of my favorite parts of this hobby.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 21:24
|
|
|
before i had an airbrush i liked priming with black spray, giving a light dusting with white spray, and then giving a quick drybrush with white too. I got really good results doing this before putting contrast paints over it
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 23:56
|
|
|
jesus WEP posted:before i had an airbrush i liked priming with black spray, giving a light dusting with white spray, and then giving a quick drybrush with white too. I got really good results doing this before putting contrast paints over it I did the same thing, and I would even do a nuln oil wash in the darkest recesses to really emphasize the shadows. you can actually do a lot with a drybrush/wash after priming to influence your basecoat, like reds look a lot warmer if you shift to a brown/warm grey undercoat.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 01:31
|
|
|
Crossposting from the kickstarter thread, not really painting but minis related. I've reached a few milestones before I can launch a mini kickstarter of my own, so I'm posting on adrenaline fumes here. Apologies in advance. :P Anyway, I've got my company (Far-flung Figures) registered properly at the tax office so I can no do business like a big boy! After that I rounded up the final ducks, making it an even 23 ducks. These will now be sent off to the industrial dwarf kin of the Ruhr area, where a proper casting company will look at which ones are ok to be cast. Then they'll make a few master copies for me and send them back for inspection, and also for painting up before launching the kickstarter. Here's the whole gang forming up for a good-bye party:  I almost feel sad to send them away, but I'm also super stoked to see them hopefully come back in metal form. I've also been busy putting together a good spreadsheet for various costs, so that it'll be easy to calculate the break-even point once I have all the proper costs sorted out. Right now, it's looking at a break-even point of about 600 euro, which I feel pretty confident with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 20:15
|
|
|
lilljonas posted:Crossposting from the kickstarter thread, not really painting but minis related. I've reached a few milestones before I can launch a mini kickstarter of my own, so I'm posting on adrenaline fumes here. Apologies in advance. :P they look great, keep us posted on the progress
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 20:55
|
|
|
600 euros seems like a pretty safe bet for these duck warriors
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 22:16
|
|
|
I got a request for more info about Black 2.0 and Black 3.0. Black 2.0 is an extremely matte black, it's better than a normal black paint with a matte varnish over the top but not much better. I feel it's a good paint for artists but it's definitely not designed with miniatures in mind. I'd say its best use is for making photo backdrops for lightboxes and painting base rims, but for the minis themselves I feel you're better using any black paint intended for miniatures and applying a really matte varnish to protect it. Black 3.0 is far more matte than any varnish on the market, which is fine for display pieces but not great for anything that is going to get handled on the regular (as the paint will wear off quickly). Like Black 2.0, it's not really intended for use with miniatures and the manufacturer suggests using primer, a black 2.0 layer, and a black 3.0 layer for 'shiny' surfaces (which miniatures definitely qualify as). That means Black 3.0 can't really be applied thinly, but if you're trying to use a black so matte it obscures detail, any detail lost via. paint thickness probably won't bother you. The real issue with Black 2.0 and 3.0 is that they're relatively fragile and will wear off if unvarnished, and because there isn't a varnish matte enough to maintain black 3.0's effect they're somewhat of a waste for miniatures. The best workaround for miniatures is (black 2.0: priming -> black 2.0 -> varnish -> black 2.0) or (black 3.0: priming -> black 2.0 -> black 3.0 -> matte varnish -> black 3.0) with an understanding that the black 3.0 will wear off of any raised areas relatively quickly and could lose its effect over time. There is another new ultra-matte black on the market called Musou Black, which is designed for airbrush use. I haven't gotten a chance to try it yet, but it's on my list after Squidmar reviewed it. Musou Black is intended for thin layers airbrush layers so seems like it would be much more miniature friendly. TLDR: I don't really recommend Black 2.0 or Black 3.0 for most miniatures. They're just too small for 'too black to make out any detail' to be truly effective. I feel you are probably better off investing in a good quality matte varnish unless you're trying for a really extreme lighting effect. The makers of Black 2.0 also have an extremely matte varnish, but from their own website: quote:IMPORTANT - if you're using coat over Black 2.0, be a little bit mindful that there is nothing as matte as Black 2.0, so [even the extremely matte varnish] will diminish the velvety effect of 2.0 a bit. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Sep 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 22:55
|
|
|
Painted another Nurgle champ. Tried some new stuff and I think it worked ok, especially putting little rust pools of mixed orange/agrax earthshade.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 00:41
|
|
|
Kicking this dude off my desk, feigned apologise for the poo poo lighting. I'm pretty sure if I check on him now his head will have fallen off.   I really like retributor gold-> guilliman flesh contrast for a very red gold, almost copper until you highlight it again. That's the gold on the gun. The other gold is retributor - agrax earthshade and it's gross but I am over this dude and not going back. I kinda like him, I really hate citadel's whites and offwhite. Now to paint four more of them, give him a base and a proper photo. I think he'll look great when the unit is up but on his own he looks dopey.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 12:55
|
|
|
Dumb question - I used my drill for virtually the first time ever yesterday, just to set up a little cork painting holder thingamajig. The first mini I tried to just hold the cork and the Ork together but this never quite set right, I guess because even as steady as I try to hold my hands they're still gonna move a little. The second one, I just kinda left the mini and the cork laying on their sides on the table and let gravity do its thing while the glue hardened. That gave me much better results, but is there a more obvious solution that I'm missing? Kinda awkward because my desk isn't very level   I haven't painted in over a year and for some reason I'm feeling anxious to get started on my boys
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 13:37
|
|
|
make your pins short enough that the model is touching or almost touching the cork, should make the whole thing less top-heavy
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 13:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 07:20 |
|
|
jesus WEP posted:make your pins short enough that the model is touching or almost touching the cork, should make the whole thing less top-heavy it'll also help to keep the mini from moving when you're painting. I glue most of my minis to short, broad roofing nails. They have tons of contact area to attach too, and when you hold them the mini is close to your hand. When I'm not painting them I can put them in a row in a wooden stick with drilled holes in it. Also works as a stand when spray priming. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 13:59
|
|