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Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Sab669 posted:

Dumb question - I used my drill for virtually the first time ever yesterday, just to set up a little cork painting holder thingamajig. The first mini I tried to just hold the cork and the Ork together but this never quite set right, I guess because even as steady as I try to hold my hands they're still gonna move a little. The second one, I just kinda left the mini and the cork laying on their sides on the table and let gravity do its thing while the glue hardened.

That gave me much better results, but is there a more obvious solution that I'm missing? Kinda awkward because my desk isn't very level :shrug:



I haven't painted in over a year and for some reason I'm feeling anxious to get started on my boys

I would honestly just get wooden cubes and some sticky tack/double sided tape. I just plonk my models onto the cube and I'm good to go. No wobbliness at all.

Something you could do is glue a base to the bottom of the corks. Also if you're going to continue with the pin, instead of drilling you can use a lighter to heat the metal pin and it will get hot enough to melt into the foot of a plastic model. Hold it for a second and it will hold nicely and it pops off easily. No time spent drilling each foot, and it takes about 5 seconds.

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

In the past I did just use blue tack d the mini down to its base, but this proved unreliable for painting and I'd sooner or later knock them over :argh:

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Sab669 posted:

In the past I did just use blue tack d the mini down to its base, but this proved unreliable for painting and I'd sooner or later knock them over :argh:

this has been my experience as well.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

In fact now that I think about it, that was the catalyst for me to be like "Oh fine I'll buy a drat drill" haha

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I cut my corks in half and then glue them to a spare base. And I reuse the same cork multiple times.

Also I sometimes use the pin in the foot to help attach them to the base, which is useful for stuff like the assault intercessors that are on one toe etc.

Also I glue the paperclip into the cork so that it doesn't move when painting.

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Sep 22, 2021

lummawks
Apr 28, 2010
So I take it from this thread that Vallejo Metal Color is the poo poo, I was gonna pick up the silver and steel, are there any other in that range that are good to have/must have? How is the Gold and Copper, worth picking up?

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


if you’re buying one of gold and copper, buy both. they mix really nicely together and iirc a common “perfect” gold paint is 3:2 of gold:copper.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

lummawks posted:

So I take it from this thread that Vallejo Metal Color is the poo poo, I was gonna pick up the silver and steel, are there any other in that range that are good to have/must have? How is the Gold and Copper, worth picking up?

Gold is kinda greenish, and copper is a little too bright. But you can make really cool brass colors by mixing them together.

If you can, there's a 4pack of them that's exhaust manifold, gunmetal, duraluminum, and copper. That's the best general starter pack imo. Generally it's cheaper than all of them separate and they're all very useful colors.

Exhaust manifold has some black brown notes but works well as a base color, then gunmetal is a very solid middle of the road grey metal. Duraluminum is pretty bright and great for highlights. Then you also have copper for other stuff. I did those custodes I posted the other day (and the siegmeyer) in just those three grey VMC colors, then an edge highlight with chrome as it's the brightest one.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

jesus WEP posted:

if you’re buying one of gold and copper, buy both. they mix really nicely together and iirc a common “perfect” gold paint is 3:2 of gold:copper.

The color isn't exactly right, you have to add in a little bit more gold pigment to get it to work. I did a test of different mixes, even including yellow contrast paint, but couldn't get it to look right. I'm going to get some yellow ink and try again.

kzin602
May 14, 2007




Grimey Drawer

PoptartsNinja posted:

.


TLDR: I don't really recommend Black 2.0 or Black 3.0 for most miniatures. They're just too small for 'too black to make out any detail' to be truly effective. I feel you are probably better off investing in a good quality matte varnish unless you're trying for a really extreme lighting effect.

The makers of Black 2.0 also have an extremely matte varnish, but from their own website:


Lamp black acrylic ink cut with matte medium is already very black and seems like less of a hassle.

Revelation 2-13
May 13, 2010

Pillbug

lummawks posted:

So I take it from this thread that Vallejo Metal Color is the poo poo, I was gonna pick up the silver and steel, are there any other in that range that are good to have/must have? How is the Gold and Copper, worth picking up?

I’m not sure how dark steel is, pretty dark I think? Depending on how dark it is, I’d get a really dark one. It’s really useful for a lot of different things. I like magnesium, but I’ve heard jet exhaust is good dark option too. I absolutely love ‘dark aluminium’ as a mid, with nuln oil gloss on it, it’s probably my favourite in the range. I think you can go steel -> dark aluminium -> silver as base, mid and highlight respectively; so maybe steel is dark enough.

Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Sep 22, 2021

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Since we're talking metallic paints, I'm just so tired of GW Liberator Gold. It separates in 24 hours and I don't have a vortex mixer. What's a great alternative?

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
I swear by Scale 75's gold range. Decayed metal - Dwarven Gold is my go to, with a wash of agrax earthshade as needed to add some age and picked back out with Dwarven for highlights.

The crozius here was painted in that method.



If you want a very vibrant gold, their elven gold is really good too.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
For an old school method, scale75 Necro gold, agrax, elven gold is a nice gold method I've been using on my space wolves.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Vallejo Metal Color Gold gives you a very nice candy red if you mix it with or spray on red ink. I think it's worth having both Gold and Copper if you want to experiment with that kind of thing.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



AndyElusive posted:

Since we're talking metallic paints, I'm just so tired of GW Liberator Gold. It separates in 24 hours and I don't have a vortex mixer. What's a great alternative?

Scale75 golds seem to work very well. You can also mix Vallejo Metal Color Gold + Copper to get a nice, bright, neutral gold.

lummawks
Apr 28, 2010

jesus WEP posted:

if you’re buying one of gold and copper, buy both. they mix really nicely together and iirc a common “perfect” gold paint is 3:2 of gold:copper.

Spanish Manlove posted:

Gold is kinda greenish, and copper is a little too bright. But you can make really cool brass colors by mixing them together.

If you can, there's a 4pack of them that's exhaust manifold, gunmetal, duraluminum, and copper. That's the best general starter pack imo. Generally it's cheaper than all of them separate and they're all very useful colors.

Exhaust manifold has some black brown notes but works well as a base color, then gunmetal is a very solid middle of the road grey metal. Duraluminum is pretty bright and great for highlights. Then you also have copper for other stuff. I did those custodes I posted the other day (and the siegmeyer) in just those three grey VMC colors, then an edge highlight with chrome as it's the brightest one.



Revelation 2-13 posted:

I’m not sure how dark steel is, pretty dark I think? Depending on how dark it is, I’d get a really dark one. It’s really useful for a lot of different things. I like magnesium, but I’ve heard jet exhaust is good dark option too. I absolutely love ‘dark aluminium’ as a mid, with nuln oil gloss on it, it’s probably my favourite in the range. I think you can go steel -> dark aluminium -> silver as base, mid and highlight respectively; so maybe steel is dark enough.

Thanks for the tips, I ordered Gunmetal, Steel, Dark Aluminium, Silver, Gold and Copper. Gonna have to pick up som GSW metal pigments to try out Vince V's metal recipe.

In exchange, have some Mandalorians I painted up for SW: Legion (god I wish they would include decals for some of the more intricate designs, lots of annoying free-hand on these trying to get the patterns)

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Found a nice rock while out on a walk. Threw a goblin on it.



I really need to practice check patterns

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Rip. Wet palette finally warped enough from being a cheap piece of poo poo that it'll probably start causing problems with water pooling or running away from raised parts. Time to go back to a plate, I guess, if I can somehow find space on my ridiculously crowded desk.



Winklebottom posted:

Found a nice rock while out on a walk. Threw a goblin on it.



I really need to practice check patterns

This is beautiful and your checks look great.

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015

Raiders at dusk
(I played around with some image editing sliders on my phone, I think the result was pretty cool.)

The last couple of months have been a pretty productive time for miniature painting. Here are some highlights, most of these pictures were taken at night and aren't very good. I couldn't figure out how to add links to the albums. :(

Serberys Raiders


I pretty much bought and painted these guys only due to the sergeants pose holding the sabre. :) Though I do like the models otherwise too. I have a pretty decently sized painted AdMech army now, so I'm taking more time on these new units.


Pteraxii


These dudes were a pain to paint. It took forever, since I decided to do them in sub-assemblies. I'm happy with the result, but I will absolutely never paint another one again. The bases were fun, I got to test some weathering pencils and foliage painting.
The color shifting paint on the wings is pretty hard to photograph, it looks pretty good irl.

Black Consuls Devastators



A few weeks ago I came across a squad of primed devastators from forever ago, and decided to give them a go. My first army (in 2nd ed) was Ultramarines, but I stopped painting marines when the Cadian box was released. I still have an entire army of unpainted marines in various states of assembly boxed up.

The plan now is to paint combat squads worth of 2nd founding UM successor chapters. These Black Consuls are the first, on account of having an all black color scheme. :) Freehanding chapter symbols etc. was a fun and also a bit of a pain, not too bad with only five marines. I think I'm going to paint a squad of jump pack assault marines as Doom Eagles next.

I also finally finished my Ultramaines 3rd company captain (base and transfers). I like how he turned out, I was very new to converting back then.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Winklebottom posted:

Found a nice rock while out on a walk. Threw a goblin on it.



I really need to practice check patterns

This is amazing, but you missed the opportunity to make a little scarecrow for your scarecrow to hold in the same outfit

superh
Oct 10, 2007

Touching every treasure

Decorus posted:

Serberys Raiders


I pretty much bought and painted these guys only due to the sergeants pose holding the sabre. :) Though I do like the models otherwise too. I have a pretty decently sized painted AdMech army now, so I'm taking more time on these new units.

Holy cow! These look incredible - I'm painting some right now. Mine will not be as good as these, haha.

They have so much more detail than the standard Necron that I've painted so far. Lots of learning to do.

Thanks for the inspirational post!!

Parkingtigers
Feb 23, 2008
TARGET CONSUMER
LOVES EVERY FUCKING GAME EVER MADE. EVER.

w00tmonger posted:

This is amazing, but you missed the opportunity to make a little scarecrow for your scarecrow to hold in the same outfit

galaxy brain: dress as a goblin and hold up the figure

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
I entered in the Reddit mini painting competition so that I had a bit of motivation to go the extra yard. So I got this goofy metal guy. Haven't used shades yet and was trying to really get a handle on wet blending and glazing. Still a WIP but getting there.


What do all you guys think? Any critiques are really appreciated.

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011
Saw a video on Youtube where the airbrush user had a masking product that appeared to be a roll of stickers. Anyone know what this is? Link below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcBTmrPc-z0&t=660s

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
It's probably just some low-tack removable labels from Staples or something.

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011
That's it. Self-adhesive removable labels.

Thank you!

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



MasterBuilder posted:

I entered in the Reddit mini painting competition so that I had a bit of motivation to go the extra yard. So I got this goofy metal guy. Haven't used shades yet and was trying to really get a handle on wet blending and glazing. Still a WIP but getting there.


What do all you guys think? Any critiques are really appreciated.

I think it looks pretty great!

I'd personally add a small white dot in each eye and base it in dark materials.

For future ghosts, you might want to consider gradual changes in the spooky flame in the same way fire gets more red as you get away from the heat. Maybe go from a white-blue to a midnight blue? I wouldn't fuss with this guy though, he seriously looks great.

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

SkyeAuroline posted:

This is beautiful and your checks look great.

w00tmonger posted:

This is amazing, but you missed the opportunity to make a little scarecrow for your scarecrow to hold in the same outfit

Thanks! If I had any skill at green stuff I'd do scarecrow-ception in a heartbeat

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015

superh posted:

Holy cow! These look incredible - I'm painting some right now. Mine will not be as good as these, haha.

They have so much more detail than the standard Necron that I've painted so far. Lots of learning to do.

Thanks for the inspirational post!!

Thanks!

I didn't do anything special with these, apart from trying to be as neat as possible and making sure my paint consistencies were exactly right. I was trying out a wet palette for the first time, big recommendation for one of them. It's really great for both maintaining paint consistency over several models and having different colors immediately available if I need to fix some small mistake.

If I were to do it again I wouldn't glue the riders onto the dogs before painting. That gave me some trouble with detailing, even though it did speed up other parts of the process.

Don't worry about painting all the details, I left a lot of stuff just basic metal colored. Just pick out the interesting stuff.

Please post pictures of your dogriders once they're done!

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Parkingtigers posted:

galaxy brain: dress as a goblin and hold up the figure

While standing on a rock. Do it. Post pics, gobbo

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges






Started painting scatter terrain for an eventual home Infinity board. Loving it so far, I get to print weird-rear end pieces and it takes only about 20 minutes to finish something.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

lovin that dust

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

Finished painting up my first ten minis. Made some mistakes but I think they turned out ok.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


I think they look really great

Doctor Goon
Nov 15, 2013
Inks question: I've never used these before, and I'll be going to the arts store this afternoon to get some black ink, since I'd like to try recess shading and it looks like mixing black ink with black paint is a good way to do so. Are there any other useful colors I should get while I'm there? Maybe a white and a brown?

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
White ink is super useful, yellow ink is great if you want to paint yellow stuff. I've also got peynes grey and burnt umber, they come in handy for tinting/shading, and making washes.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Toebone posted:

White ink is super useful, yellow ink is great if you want to paint yellow stuff. I've also got peynes grey and burnt umber, they come in handy for tinting/shading, and making washes.

If you're using an airbrush I'd grab a pink ink along with the yellow. You can airbrush something pink, then zenithal white from the top (so it's just pink lowlights) then airbrush everything yellow. The yellow and pink inks layer into a yellowy orange (pink + yellow = dark yellow tinted orange) for the lowlights and recesses and it is the best looking easy yellow you can do.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Yes! I use Vallejo squid pink for that, but if you're doing a lot of yellow pink ink would be a good pickup.

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Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



So far I just can't figure out airbrushing inks. It's either spattering all over if I try using it right out of the bottle or a watery mess if I use thinner. Any recommendations?

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