|
Forgive me ahead of time if I'm not using the right terminology here... Recently when surfing the web I'll have issues with webpages not loading on the first try. The error I get is usually DNS related. If I refresh the page then it'll load no problem. The issue occurs on multiple browsers, and seemingly multiple computers. On my Netgear R6400 router I have my DNS manually set to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 . I've also tried setting it to the CloudFlare DNS and the problem persisted. It seemingly affects other applications. I almost had to reschedule an online-proctored certification because of a DNS issue in the application. Any ideas on how I can narrow down what could be going on?
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2021 20:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 02:03 |
|
|
When you ping a website (such as ping https://www.yahoo.com) in cmon prompt, does it resolve right away? Do you have multiple nics on your computer? I had an issue years ago at work where a workstation had a connection to our enterprise network but also a connection to an xray imaging machine and DNS requests would alternate between the two. They had to refresh every time to get the page to load, exactly like you are describing. Don’t recall what exactly caused it (I think they had two gateways configured). Edit- just caught the part of multiple computers, so that sounds unlikely. Cyks fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Sep 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2021 23:34
|
|
|
Hughmoris posted:Forgive me ahead of time if I'm not using the right terminology here... If you’re comfortable doing a wireshark package dump, that would help a lot…
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 14:28
|
|
|
Cyks posted:When you ping a website (such as ping https://www.yahoo.com) in cmon prompt, does it resolve right away? bolind posted:If you’re comfortable doing a wireshark package dump, that would help a lot… Thanks for the ideas. This morning I tried the /flushdns again, and I set my DNS on my desktop instead of it deferring to the router. That might have fixed the problem, haven't seen the usual issues since then.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 14:35
|
|
|
If setting your computer to directly go outside your network for DNS fixes things, sounds like your router's DNS forwarder is flaky at best.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 22:34
|
|
|
Hi thread, I'd like a second opinion on my network plan. I've moved to a larger property and my wifi doesn't really reach outside the house. Right now it is an Archer c5 v2 from 2016. I'm interested in TPlink's Omada line since it looks like I can add to it if needed and it's more available than Unifi. I'm planning to have two EAP225 outdoors for the front and back yards. I'd mount them on the house so I'm hoping they'd cover the interior, too. I'll get a third WAP inside the house if I find these lacking. I'll get the OC200 controller and I'd like to have mesh. I saw the talk about how old equipment may be a security risk and the last firmware for my router is from 2016 so I'm open to getting a new router. I don't have PoE at home so I'd need to power these components so I'm interested in a poe switch. It looks like a Mikrotik hex poe can route and generate poe for these devices but it depends on the power supply. Does that mean the brick going to the barrel connector or the poe in port? The included power adapter is 60W, each WAP is 10.5W, and controller is 5W (60-2*10.5-5=34W left) so it looks like I have capacity to add the indoor WAP without having to add another component.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 00:10
|
|
|
Sounds fine but if you are running power over Ethernet to your APs, you aren’t/shouldn’t be running a wireless mesh network. Mikrotik can be pretty confusing to set up and you can get a dumb PoE switch and an Omasa router for around the same price, and I’d probably do that. Rant time: I personally think controllers are a waste for home networks. If you have a server running windows and you want to throw the software version on there for free, sure, but I would never buy the Omada or Unifi standalone controller. Home devices don’t typically move around much in home with the exception of wireless calling (which I leave off anyways) and it isn’t much of a hassle to manage a few APS. Mesh will still work even if the controller is offline just no failover if an AP goes down, but most aren’t designing their mesh with multiple paths in mind (and you aren’t with only two APs).
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 02:07
|
|
|
I don't know much about this stuff but really need some advice, so bear with me. I picked up a Netgear Nighthawk combination modem/router about a year ago. This one https://www.netgear.com/home/wifi/modem-routers/c7000/ with a Comcast 250mbps plan. For the most part it has been great, aside from some huge issues I had with my Playstation, that were fixed when a goon more knowledgeable than me walked me through some port forwarding that made everything run great. After 11 months of no issues, all of a sudden I just started getting massive ping spikes so frequently is practically makes online games unplayable. it's awful but I don't even know where to start. Just looking for some general tips on how to troubleshoot it. And no, I can't just plug the Playstation 5 in via ethernet unless, I call Comcast and get them to activate the cable hookups in the room with the PS, since they aren't activated for some reason. I wish that were an option though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 07:09
|
|
|
Is it just the PlayStation having issues? You could look into moca adapters to wire in the PlayStation. As I recall the wireless cards on the PS4 aren’t great.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 00:35
|
|
|
veni veni veni posted:And no, I can't just plug the Playstation 5 in via ethernet unless, I call Comcast and get them to activate the cable hookups in the room with the PS, since they aren't activated for some reason. I wish that were an option though. Seconding the previous comment recommending a Moca adapter, gaming on a wired connection is definitely preferred over a wireless one. However, if you can't move your modem/router into the room with the PS (since you mentioned the cable hookups in there are not activated) then you will likely have some trouble with a Moca adapter as well, since they require your coax cable to be hooked up. What sort of place are you in? To hook all mine up I just connected everything to the 8 way splitter in the telco box on the side of the house. Or are the cable hookups in the room with the PS actually ethernet hookups? Not clear to me from your post.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 07:29
|
|
|
The cable company is coming to trench in a coax run from my house to detached shop. The contractor has agreed to drop ethernet alongside if I provide a spool. Is this what I want to buy? “Cat6 Gel Filled Direct Burial Unshielded” I’ve terminated plenty of ethernet, but is there anything special to dealing with gel-filled? The shop has its own service ground separate from the house. Do I need to be worried about that and connecting equipment in different buildings?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 19:25
|
|
|
Moved into our new house this weekend, and got a chance to sort out the network situation. The previous owners had Ethernet drops put in everywhere (yay!) and I picked up a 24 port PoE switch to cover the whole house. Backstory: the previous owners fancied themselves DIYers and did some questionable and straight-up unsafe stuff. I’ve had to undo a lot of their work leading up to this point. After matching up network drops and organizing things on the switch, I have 6 drops negotiating at 100 Mb, 1 that negotiated at 100 but has since negotiated at gigabit reliably (probably a bad contact in there somewhere, it’ll likely go bad soon), and 2 that were completely dead out of 19 drops (boo!). Looks like I’m re-terminating a ton of drops! Hopefully it’s just the terminations at the keystone jacks and not bad wiring, from what I can see the guy did a crap job punching everything down.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 20:38
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:The cable company is coming to trench in a coax run from my house to detached shop. The contractor has agreed to drop ethernet alongside if I provide a spool. I haven't worked with it but this site makes it sound like you just clean as much as you can off the ends you're terminating with 90% isopropyl alcohol before you terminate it, and it will be messy, but not thicker than normal cable once cleaned up: https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/direct-burial-ethernet-cable-gel-filled-vs-waterproof-tape They also have recommendations for soap to get it off of your hands after since it's sticky.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 23:54
|
|
|
Cyks posted:Sounds fine but if you are running power over Ethernet to your APs, you aren’t/shouldn’t be running a wireless mesh network. Mikrotik can be pretty confusing to set up and you can get a dumb PoE switch and an Omasa router for around the same price, and I’d probably do that. Ok thanks for the info. I changed to a omada router and simple Poe switch. I'll try running the controller software on my nas.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 00:14
|
|
|
I've setup a second hand HP Thin client PC as a pfsense box and it's been working well, but I'd like to move over to Opnsense. Are there any good how to guides for the standard setup ? IE an IoT/Guest vLan and RW VPN access.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 02:05
|
|
|
I started getting creeped out by how old the firmware on my v1 TP-Link Archer C8 was (2016), and after beating my head against a wall comparison shopping I finally pulled the trigger on an Archer C4000 to replace it. Spec-wise it should be a decent step up, and they are on sale at Costco for $99. I strongly considered going AX instead of AC, but I have no AX devices and the throughput on the C4000 seems pretty drat impressive. And at that price I won't feel terrible if I have to upgrade it in a couple years. I might try flashing DD-WRT on the C8 once I'm not relying on it as my primary router. It served me really well, and I don't really have any issues with it, but it's 5 years old and the firmware is so very old. I'm hoping the C4000 might have a little bit less latency than the C8, but we'll see. After all my shopping I got more interested in tri-band than AX, and the C4000 has that. On an only tangentially related matter, I was seeing really high uncorrectables on my new CM700 modem, so took out the attenuator between it and the wall coax, and it seemed to take care of it. It was causing the connection to drop sometimes, and my Internet in general was a bit unstable. Now the uncorrectables are fixed, and the connection is way more stable, but I find my speedtests are a little slower. Before I was consistently testing over my rated 400mbps, now it is only occasionally that I beat it. I might gently caress with it further, but I might also wait and see if Comcast adjusts things in my neighborhood to where it goes back up again. CaptainSarcastic fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Sep 24, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 09:50
|
|
|
If being out of date is a concern I’d suggest going with a manufacturer that has a record of keeping their old products patched. The only consumer router I’m aware of that does this well, outside of some ISP specific routers, is eero. There are probably others (Google?) but TP-Link isn’t one of them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 15:02
|
|
|
My Asus (Ac68u?) from 2012 or 2013 still gets patches. Is that abnormal?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 18:55
|
|
|
That’s surprising, and good because they had some bugs that allowed anyone to perform almost any action on their routers up until mid 2020, including changing the admin password to whatever they wanted.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
Asus has allowed people to create mesh networks using several of their old models, thus the current firmware updates. I myself have a mesh of two AC68u routers as nodes and an AC-3100 as the primary.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 20:28
|
|
|
Evis posted:If being out of date is a concern I’d suggest going with a manufacturer that has a record of keeping their old products patched. The only consumer router I’m aware of that does this well, outside of some ISP specific routers, is eero. There are probably others (Google?) but TP-Link isn’t one of them. Yeah, I'm aware of that, and may treat the C4000 as a temporary. At least it is more current than the C8 as well as being tri-band. Having a decent working router also makes me feel like I can try installing DD-WRT or something on the C8 to address the firmware issue. Right now the only backup I have is a couple wireless N routers which would be very awkward stopgaps if I had to fall back on them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 20:40
|
|
|
Got tired of random dead spots in my house with my orbi router/satellite despite being in the next room to either and finally swapped them out for a single router; so far works a million times better, but it has 4 antenna on it. Does orientation really make any difference or can I just point them all up and call it a day?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2021 04:10
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:Got tired of random dead spots in my house with my orbi router/satellite despite being in the next room to either and finally swapped them out for a single router; so far works a million times better, but it has 4 antenna on it. Does orientation really make any difference or can I just point them all up and call it a day? just point them all up
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2021 06:09
|
|
|
Are the Motorola/Arris models in the OP still basically my best bet? My ancient SB6121 just died after like 11 years. Unfortunately it happened at the worst time possible and I had to rent a modem from Cox since I had to cancel my debit card a few days earlier due to some fraudulent charges. I had to throw a $50 deposit down and it's running me nearly $16/mo just to use the drat thing. That's pretty much the cost of a new Docsis 3.0 device already. I don't see myself needing a 3.1 device yet, just need something with a bit more bandwidth capacity.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 04:36
|
|
|
I would get a Surfboard 6183, should be able to pick one up used pretty cheap Avoid the 6190.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 05:05
|
|
|
dog nougat posted:Are the Motorola/Arris models in the OP still basically my best bet? My ancient SB6121 just died after like 11 years. Unfortunately it happened at the worst time possible and I had to rent a modem from Cox since I had to cancel my debit card a few days earlier due to some fraudulent charges. I had to throw a $50 deposit down and it's running me nearly $16/mo just to use the drat thing. That's pretty much the cost of a new Docsis 3.0 device already. I don't see myself needing a 3.1 device yet, just need something with a bit more bandwidth capacity. i have a 6141 you can have for shipping.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 06:05
|
|
|
My last couple modems have been Netgears that seem fine, but I haven't done a lot of research into them and the last one I bought more out of habit and impatience than anything else. I got the C4000 router today and hooked it up, and I think it has improved my connection significantly. It's confounded by the fact I also changed the piece of poo poo coax that was connecting my modem to the wall, because when I went to move the modem to hook up the new router the drat thing just fell off. When I hooked it back up the modem connection was spotty, but with a new cable it's solid. My speedtests are coming in an average of 50mbps faster with lower latency than my old C8 could manage, and IPV6 seems to be working a lot better on the new router than the old. Not that I'm sure how much IPV6 matters, but it's kind of cool to see it working in a more than half-assed way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 08:29
|
|
|
I've got symmetrical gig fiber to the house and am currently using 1st gen Google Wifi for my networking. I've cabled in the 2nd wifi point, so no wireless backhaul, but with the config I see consistent 300mbp/s up and down service over wireless. Which is plenty. But I want more. And I'm tempted by Unifi having 6 Lites back in stock. If I replace my setup with a pair of 6 Lites can I expect any additional performance on the wireless side of things?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 16:59
|
|
|
FunOne posted:I've got symmetrical gig fiber to the house and am currently using 1st gen Google Wifi for my networking. I've cabled in the 2nd wifi point, so no wireless backhaul, but with the config I see consistent 300mbp/s up and down service over wireless. Which is plenty. Depends on the device and environment, but yeah, most likely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 17:14
|
|
|
Trip report: After having the conduit laid and pulling 2x Cat6a cables from the house to the new garage, it was finally time to terminate to keystone jacks and mount them in wall boxes with faceplates and whatnot. I terminated both ends in the keystone jacks, wired things up at both ends and....it worked. It worked the first time, which is staggering to me. I am staggered.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 17:58
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:I would get a Surfboard 6183, should be able to pick one up used pretty cheap otter posted:i have a 6141 you can have for shipping. Thanks y'all! Appreciate the offer, but I want something a lil beefier than 8x4. Was held back by my old 4x4 and looking for a mid-level upgrade for not too much and hopefully I can get a slightly faster service tier for not too much. Looks like I can get a refurb 6183 on ebay for $30. Just need to make sure it is compatible with my ISP.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 20:01
|
|
|
FunOne posted:I've got symmetrical gig fiber to the house and am currently using 1st gen Google Wifi for my networking. I've cabled in the 2nd wifi point, so no wireless backhaul, but with the config I see consistent 300mbp/s up and down service over wireless. Which is plenty. Both the 1st gen Google Wifi and U6 Lites support the same data rates on 2.4 and Wifi 5 5GHZ (300 and 866.7, respectively ) so unless you are rocking some Wifi 6 devices, you may very well not. Of course real world results can vary and the build quality and implementation can make a difference but if you are seeing those results already I wouldn't expect much of an improvement.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2021 22:22
|
|
|
Shamelessly crossposting from the monitor thread:bolind posted:We're having a small annoyance with some Dell U2720Q monitors. We pair them with MacBook Airs, via USB-C, and then we plug in a USB to RJ45 ethernet dongle in the monitor, so network is wired.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2021 07:54
|
|
|
bolind posted:Shamelessly crossposting from the monitor thread: A quick search turned up this which seems relevant: https://www.dell.com/community/Monitors/U2721DE-network-speed/td-p/7768580
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2021 08:15
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:A quick search turned up this which seems relevant: Thanks! This looks like good stuff, even if the monitor is not quite the same model (built in Ethernet.) Edit: That worked! And screen signal is still good (4k, 60Hz). bolind fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Sep 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2021 08:59
|
|
|
Cyks posted:Both the 1st gen Google Wifi and U6 Lites support the same data rates on 2.4 and Wifi 5 5GHZ (300 and 866.7, respectively ) so unless you are rocking some Wifi 6 devices, you may very well not. Of course real world results can vary and the build quality and implementation can make a difference but if you are seeing those results already I wouldn't expect much of an improvement. Yeah, that is what I found as well. But I also found plenty of people saying they could push 500mbs through their Google Wifis and I just can't seem to make that happen. Pulled the trigger on the Lites, mostly because I miss all my dashboard statistics and whatnot. I'll give them a decent test and see if anything improves, else I can always send them back.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2021 17:08
|
|
|
What do the Core Networking rules in Windows Firewall even do? I tried to get IPv6 ping from external addresses to work, but enabling all the "Core Networking - ICMP Echo Request (ICMPv6-In)" rules did gently caress all. Even changing their own settings to allow edge traversal did nothing. I had to specify a custom one for it to work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2021 17:09
|
|
|
FunOne posted:Yeah, that is what I found as well. But I also found plenty of people saying they could push 500mbs through their Google Wifis and I just can't seem to make that happen. Pulled the trigger on the Lites, mostly because I miss all my dashboard statistics and whatnot. I'll give them a decent test and see if anything improves, else I can always send them back. Replying to myself just to maintain a thread. Still awaiting the Lite 6s and will update with test results once I have them. I loaded up the WiFi analyzer this morning and was surprised by what I saw. I'm assuming most of my neighbors have Google Wifi pucks as it is the default with the internet service. All 5ghz networks I can see, including my own, are on a pair of channel sets. Plenty of open frequency next to those, but whatever scanning/allocation algorithm Google ends up lumping everyone onto one of those two sets of channels. Additionally, both of my APs, despite using a wired backhaul are on the same 5ghz frequency as well. I'm assuming this allows it to fall back to wireless backhaul, but it also means that any chatter on those frequencies from my devices OR my neighbors is affecting that performance. So, I've now got a bit of hope that being able to use that clear and free frequency out there will improve my speeds noticeably.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2021 16:59
|
|
|
I have a Unifi stack, UDM Pro and an older 24 port gen 1. I'm looking to add a couple of PoE G4 dome cameras and my 24 port is mostly full. So I'm thinking, do I need 10G? Switch Pro 24 PoE is $699, it has 10G Switch 24 PoE is $379, but no 10G Any thoughts on if I should spend the extra $320 on the pro? I'm going to have three APs and at least two cameras. Maybe more in the future (1-3 years at a new house). Also, is there any place that has discounted Unifi gear or should I buy direct from Ubiquiti?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2021 20:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 02:03 |
|
|
Boner Wad posted:I have a Unifi stack, UDM Pro and an older 24 port gen 1. I'm looking to add a couple of PoE G4 dome cameras and my 24 port is mostly full. So I'm thinking, do I need 10G? I would only go 10G if you have a NAS, or multi-gigabit fiber connection. With spinning HDDs on my ZFS I'm able to transfer at about 500 MB/s over 10G. Is that worth the cost of the NICs and switch for it? Probably not, depending on what the NAS is used for. Not sure about a vendor with bulk discounts. The Ubiquiti store has like a 5% price break for some of their multi-packs. The Unifi Protect gear has been out of stock for ages it seems like. I think the dome cameras are easier to get than the bullets. I got a G4 Pro to try out protect and I'm liking it so far, despite my hesitation to give Ubiquiti any more of my money. I've been on the in stock notifications for some of the cheaper models for awhile and no luck yet. Thinking about replacing my Ring doorbell with theirs as well, to keep everything consolidated. It's a bummer there's no easy way to do off site backups of the recorded video.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2021 21:01
|
|