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the biggest problem i have getting my 4x5 in a bag is the giant metal rail which usually needs to stick out of a gap in tthe zippers
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Sep 28, 2021 17:23
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Google Butt posted:Another gear question, anyone using a real hiking/backpacking pack with an ICU for your 4x5 gear? Please post pics if so, looking for ideas Not a real hiking backpack, but here’s my setup in an f-stop bag:  That’s a loupe on the top left, but on the rare occasion that I’m carrying a 2nd lens, it’d go there. Film holders on the left. Dark cloth above the ICU, meter & filters in the front pocket.
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Sep 28, 2021 17:54
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nadav posted:That’s a loupe on the top left, but on the rare occasion that I’m carrying a 2nd lens, it’d go there. Film holders on the left. Dark cloth above the ICU, meter & filters in the front pocket. Hi Macromax buddy!
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Sep 28, 2021 17:56
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Yond Cassius posted:Hi Macromax buddy! Great loupe, just wish I had the lanyard.
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Sep 28, 2021 19:37
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Twenties Superstar posted:the biggest problem i have getting my 4x5 in a bag is the giant metal rail which usually needs to stick out of a gap in tthe zippers condolences
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Sep 29, 2021 02:14
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Most of the images I took today were crap (not being careful enough with light leaks in the darkbox). Uh, here's a picture of the car-based setup instead: I also tried to get a pic of the radar telescope near me but as soon as I pulled up it started rotating so... maybe next time. Twenties Superstar posted:the biggest problem i have getting my 4x5 in a bag is the giant metal rail which usually needs to stick out of a gap in tthe zippers Yeah, I bought my Toyo monorail because I thought "it's wet plate, it's not like I'm gonna be walking far with it anyways" but it's still ungainly as hell and annoying to pack. I've got my eye out for a cheap field camera or a Speed Graphic or something as the Toyo's movements and build quality are overkill for most of my uses.
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Sep 29, 2021 11:38
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For those using Instax wide, what ND filter would you suggest I use if I want to most closely match how I'd meter for portra 400?
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Oct 2, 2021 22:36
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Google Butt posted:For those using Instax wide, what ND filter would you suggest I use if I want to most closely match how I'd meter for portra 400? not really sure if this is what you mean, but instax is 800 iso so i guess a one stop nd filter?
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Oct 3, 2021 02:59
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eggsovereasy posted:not really sure if this is what you mean, but instax is 800 iso so i guess a one stop nd filter? Yeah that's what I meant. I was curious if anyone had any personal experience with it, I've seen some mixed info on the actual speed of Instax. I'll order a set and play around with it though, thanks
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Oct 3, 2021 03:39
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Oct 3, 2021 23:33
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Oct 7, 2021 04:23
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Hand held shots with the RZ67.  I am much happier with a tripod.   
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Oct 9, 2021 23:09
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theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Oct 24, 2021 |
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Oct 24, 2021 00:02
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Experiment with long exposure in the (very heavy) rain. I had more planned but was worried about getting the gear too wet. Epsonscan couldn't deal with the negative conversion at all. Despite the preview looking ok, the green channel came in completely shifted. Ended up using Negative Lab Pro.
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Nov 16, 2021 05:21
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Experiment with long exposure in the (very heavy) rain. I had more planned but was worried about getting the gear too wet. Epsonscan 'can' handle pretty much anything that your scanner can provide, in terms of data. If you make sure you're capturing the entire histogram and don't let it do any kind of image enhancements or grading (do that after in PS) I think the other software is just more or less convenient. The same results should be possible with anything since it's just the raw info you're getting from the scanner. You could scan it as a positive and just flip it in PS for example. If I'm wrong about this I'm prepared to happily find new scanning software but it seems that most often when people run into issues with Epsonscan it's because they aren't using PS to correct the color channels (black point, highlights etc) after.
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Nov 16, 2021 05:45
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I got a semi-usable image by resetting everything to default, but it still needed a lot of work to get anywhere near what A) I could get in the Epson Scan preview and B) What I got out of inverting it in NPL. I've been happy with Epson Scan so far and it's always given me stuff that was 'good enough' as a starting point, but here, it was really funky. I've done a couple of night time shots before, all on Ektar 100 and they've been ok?. None of them as dark as this, though.
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Nov 16, 2021 05:58
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   Potsdam kino. Lots of defects. Beware.  Same.  
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Nov 21, 2021 00:05
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Hi goons, I have a Polaroid 600SE. Amazingly, I found it at a thrift store back in 2016 with the original box and everything for $30. Unfortunately it requires peel apart film which is not being produced anymore, and I'm down to my last few shots of my critically endangered fuji film. Based on my research this was the best camera Polaroid ever produced. It's also called the GOOSE (600SE = GOOSE). I really want to keep this camera alive by putting a film back on it that takes readily available film. I bought a Mamiya M converter a few years ago which I think should allow me to slap some sort of Mamiya film back on the goose, but I honestly lost track of this project and what film back I intended to buy. And I have very little knowledge of film photography outside of this camera, but am eager to learn. Honestly, I'm not even 100% sure whether this camera is even classified as medium format. But, I have a renewed will to buy the correct back for this camera. Anyone have any knowledge of these systems? I can post more specs of what I have if that helps. 
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Nov 21, 2021 01:25
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kreeningsons posted:I bought a Mamiya M converter a few years ago which I think should allow me to slap some sort of Mamiya film back on the goose, but I honestly lost track of this project and what film back I intended to buy. You need the back from a Mamiya Universal Press. The 6x9 back will most closely duplicate the shooting experience. There's a G adapter that lets you use RB67 backs, too. Also I know a source with a little bit of the Fujiroid to spare; drop me a PM if you really want and I may be able to hook you up with some at (vaguely) reasonable prices. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 21, 2021 |
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Nov 21, 2021 01:40
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What is the half-circular thing in the bottom right of this image: It's a GW690 and I see the indentation in the back of my body, but I am curious what purpose it serves. Edit: Not my image. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 21, 2021 |
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Nov 21, 2021 21:54
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Cassius Belli posted:You need the back from a Mamiya Universal Press. The 6x9 back will most closely duplicate the shooting experience. There's a G adapter that lets you use RB67 backs, too. Thank you!
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Nov 21, 2021 21:59
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theHUNGERian posted:What is the half-circular thing in the bottom right of this image: It’s how the film gate is shaped. I don’t think it serves a purpose besides maybe allowing you to identify negatives from that model of camera.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:13
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It can be useful for identifying orientation when setting up your negs in an enlarger or when scanning.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:55
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Cool, thanks!
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Nov 21, 2021 22:56
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Just got the shipping for my Lomograflock finally
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Nov 23, 2021 00:37
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Megabound posted:It can be useful for identifying orientation when setting up your negs in an enlarger or when scanning. Also people used to cut extra notches into cameras with removable backs so that way if you found am issue on a roll you knew which light trap to replace. This might have just been with hassie backs tbh but it was pretty common in those.
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Nov 23, 2021 05:00
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ok it's time to get serious, I have a really nice crown graphic top-RF that the rangefinder no longer deflects as you move the bed, I think it might be due to a popped bracket holding down the "feeler" cable, so hopefully something simple, but I'd like to send it to an actual repair shop that specialized in LF and not just my local shadetree mechanic. Does anyone have any recommendations there?
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Nov 24, 2021 09:46
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Paul MaudDib posted:ok it's time to get serious, I have a really nice crown graphic top-RF that the rangefinder no longer deflects as you move the bed, I think it might be due to a popped bracket holding down the "feeler" cable, so hopefully something simple, but I'd like to send it to an actual repair shop that specialized in LF and not just my local shadetree mechanic. Does anyone have any recommendations there? I have only bought stuff from them, so I cannot say how competent they are repairing, but: https://www.catlabs.info
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Nov 24, 2021 16:00
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Google Butt posted:Just got the shipping for my Lomograflock finally pro tip you gotta be careful where the tip goes! Gotta pull it out of the danger zone or else it might bind on the graflok sliders! 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Nov 29, 2021 |
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Nov 28, 2021 00:09
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Paul MaudDib posted:pro tip you gotta be careful where the tip goes! Gotta pull it out of the danger zone or else it might bind on the graflok sliders! I'm using a Chamonix which has decent clearance. I did place an order to have this printed though: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/85070-4x5-ground-glass-frame-for-use-with-a-lomography-i Playing around with this indoors has made me kind of want to get a flash/strobe to play around with, what would be the cheapest strobe worth buying to add a stop or two of light? Currently using the Nikon NIKKOR-W 135mm f/5.6 on my 4x5
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Nov 28, 2021 23:10
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Dec 14, 2021 02:49
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Maybe my monitor's off but those seem really magenta tinted to me
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Dec 14, 2021 04:38
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cerious posted:Maybe my monitor's off but those seem really magenta tinted to me All of them? There was a struggle with the second picture and I was going to revisit it with fresh eyes tomorrow, but perhaps I need to revisit them all.
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Dec 14, 2021 05:27
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Yeah all of them, #5 in particular too. I know it's ektar doing its thing too though.
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Dec 14, 2021 06:09
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Yeah they're all really magenta tinted to me too, like expired or wrongly exposed film. The most normal is the 4th shot. The rest are pretty bad.
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Dec 14, 2021 07:26
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Well, I made myself a promise to spend more time with dealing with color during my holiday break, so thanks for the feedback.
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Dec 14, 2021 15:49
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I was going to post this in the post a day thread, but the thread appears to be more dead than this one, and we are supposed to limit ourselves to 3 pictures per day, so I will continue here. Apologies if it appears I am loving up the thread, it is not my intention. Yeah, "yellow tanks" and "blue door" were sloppy. I did a minor tweaks on "blue tanks" and "foliage" because they didn't seem that off to me. Here are my edits along with screenshots of the histograms: Blue tank   Yellow tanks   Foliage   Blue door   Tear them apart.
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Dec 14, 2021 17:17
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still magenta. if you have an iphone check them on there
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Dec 14, 2021 17:21
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I don't but I do have a color calibrated monitor, and I was hoping the histogram would take away the ambiguity of color calibration different goons have. Edit: Alternatively, could it be an issue with saving the files as png? I had noticed that pngs did occasionally look slightly off in terms of color (more so than a jpg), but at least png were always free of compression artifacts in soft gradients. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 17:31
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theHUNGERian posted:I was going to post this in the post a day thread, but the thread appears to be more dead than this one, and we are supposed to limit ourselves to 3 pictures per day, so I will continue here. Apologies if it appears I am loving up the thread, it is not my intention.   Included the temp/tint adjustments I made so you can do the same on your end and see if it looks like the photo I posted. Do you have a couple different screens so you can drag it over (or halfway between) and see if there's a color difference? Do you have any software running that adjusts your monitor blue light or tint for nighttime eye health?
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Dec 14, 2021 21:43
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