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I am a serial wheel buyer/seller. I’ll buy a wheel, use it for a while, want to try a different one, so I sell it on eBay, SA mart, or Craigslist, and get something else and start that whole cycle over again, sometimes going back to the same wheel or similar to what I had before. Through that time I’ve had 5 or 6 belt driven thrustmaster wheels, 2 g920s, one g27, one fanatec csr, and one fanatec 911 gt2 RS. My first thrustmaster wheel (a thrustmaster TX) worked fine for a couple of hours but then it died. I RMA’d it and a couple weeks later got a replacement that worked fine for the duration of time that I kept it before selling it. My second thrustmaster tx died within 15 minutes. I took it back to micro center and got a replacement that worked until I sold it many months later. My third thrustmaster tx died within a week with maybe 10 hours of use, RMA’d it, and the replacement worked for over a year, when I sold it. With that last one The RMA procedure was not even a return, I just had to cut the USB cable off the wheel base and send them a picture to prove I did it. So after I took the picture I soldered the cable back on and replaced the power supply and it worked fine. I sold it to a goon on SA mart (disclosing its history of course) and I think it’s still working. The other thrustmaster wheels I had all lasted for the duration of time that I owned them. I know it’s not a huge sample size, but 100% of the thrustmaster wheels that died on me died within the first week, which should fall into any decent store’s return window. For me, if it didn’t die within the first week (and for the most part in the first day) it wasn’t going to die. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Sep 25, 2021 |
# ? Sep 25, 2021 20:06 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 05:46 |
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I'm not incredibly experienced with high-quality wheels, I've only owned a Logitech G29 and a CSL Elite wheel/base and pedals. What I do know is that I returned the Logitech after less than a week, the force feedback was a joke and it didn't correctly interface with several of my favorite games, pretty surprisingly. The CSL Elite is not too pricy at all either, I think I paid around 500 total including wheel, base, and pedals then add a bit for shifter if you need that (although it does come with paddle shifters so you aren't totally out of luck before you get a shifter). Confusingly though, I can't actually find the set I got on Fanatec, the CSL Elites seem to be sold out, by and large. e: actually, pretty much everything seems to be sold out...
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 20:17 |
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Yeah fanatec has a huge backlog right now I’m hoping my order actually ships at the end of October like it’s supposed to.
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 20:35 |
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My t300 bases lasted something like 26-28 months. Someone online has a guide to take em apart and use a laptop adapter but I could never be assed to do it.
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 20:45 |
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I think the CSL elite is out of production now. The CSL DD is replacing it.
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 20:54 |
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MrYenko posted:I think the CSL elite is out of production now. The CSL DD is replacing it. Yeah it seems that way. Looks like the price is not too dissimilar, so I guess that makes sense. It was a nice budget wheelbase though, and I like the rev LCDs on it. I guess if you can afford the DD setup it's probably a better idea anyways.
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 21:28 |
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Do not buy a first-gen fanatec product They do eventually get them right but usually not on the first try
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 21:36 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Do not buy a first-gen fanatec product Counterpoint: the CSL DD is amazing and doesn't seem to have any glaring issues (other than not being able to get one without preordering right now)
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 21:54 |
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It’s not even out yet……
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 21:56 |
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It's got a massive backlog but several people in the discord have them already, granted it's mostly people who ordered them during the first few hours they were available but they all seem to love them.
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 22:15 |
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I’m sure they’re fantastic and I have a fanatec wheel kicking around specifically because I’ll probably eventually get one to mount it to, but I want a couple thousand people to have them in their hands before me
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 22:36 |
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Thrustmaster T300RS owner here since Dec 2017. Zero problems with overheating or dying or whatever. I've modded the wheel with this cool Acelith F1 style wheel plate which breathed new life into it (and made room for my keyboard to be under the wheel at my rig). I'll probably upgrade to a DD when this eventually dies, but it seems like as long as I don't plug it into a suspect power source, let the fan time out on its own after use, and generally don't mistreat it... it might be another 4+ years before I need a new wheel.
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# ? Sep 25, 2021 22:52 |
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2018 here. Love my t300rs. I know others have had issues but mine has been rock solid since day one. That F1 kit is rad and if I didn’t already have the Thrustmaster F1 wheel I’d be clicking “Buy” instead of posting this.
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 00:14 |
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They didn't put enough ventilation on early t300's, I still have my later one and it's been good
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 01:37 |
I bought my TS-PC in December '17. It made it to May of '18 before it remembered that it is a Thrustmaster and the PSU went bad. RMA was relatively painless and it's been fine ever since.
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 02:04 |
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Whenever the G29 comes up I'm always surprised to see that noone is mentioning what I found to be the biggest issue with it - there is a 30 degree or so area, 15 deg from top center on both sides, where there's basically no feedback or centering force. Once you're past that point it's completely serviceable and lots of people drive very well with 'cheap' wheels like that. I noticed the notching from the gears but honestly wasn't bothered by it overmuch. It was most noticeable in situations where you're holding a line through a long corner (carousel at road america) and making small adjustments. I stepped up to a CSL Elite base and it's just a nicer experience in every way. It's smooth, doesn't have any dead spots like that, it's quiet, and it's strong enough (mostly) in it's feedback that I don't find myself wanting more. You also get access to all the fanatec wheels and there's some absolute bangers in there (formula v2). I know the DD stuff is 'smoother' as well as being stronger but I wonder how much nicer I'd find it.
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 05:11 |
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VelociBacon posted:I stepped up to a CSL Elite base and it's just a nicer experience in every way. It's smooth, doesn't have any dead spots like that, it's quiet, and it's strong enough (mostly) in it's feedback that I don't find myself wanting more. You also get access to all the fanatec wheels and there's some absolute bangers in there (formula v2). I know the DD stuff is 'smoother' as well as being stronger but I wonder how much nicer I'd find it. Heh... the main reason I haven't upgraded to a DD wheel is that I'm fearful that it'll either be 1) not enough difference for me to justify the expense and trouble of mounting a different wheel base or 2) that the difference is so drastic that I'll kick myself for not doing it sooner. I don't think there's any winning this one. I guess if I was putting multiple hours in the sim rig daily I'd just pull the trigger, but as it is now I probably sit in the rig maybe a couple of hours every other day or so, more on the weekends. I think I'll upgrade the bucket seat before I do the wheel... and the one I have my eye on is probably going to be more than a DD wheel base + wheel combo.
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 13:08 |
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Essobie posted:Heh... the main reason I haven't upgraded to a DD wheel is that I'm fearful that it'll either be 1) not enough difference for me to justify the expense and trouble of mounting a different wheel base or 2) that the difference is so drastic that I'll kick myself for not doing it sooner. I don't think there's any winning this one. There’s a local sim racing gear shop (somefucking how I don’t understand) that has rigs to try, and I have very specifically not gone done there because I know it ends up with me leaving with new pedals and a DD2.
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# ? Sep 26, 2021 20:23 |
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VelociBacon posted:Whenever the G29 comes up I'm always surprised to see that noone is mentioning what I found to be the biggest issue with it - there is a 30 degree or so area, 15 deg from top center on both sides, where there's basically no feedback or centering force. Once you're past that point it's completely serviceable and lots of people drive very well with 'cheap' wheels like that. I noticed the notching from the gears but honestly wasn't bothered by it overmuch. It was most noticeable in situations where you're holding a line through a long corner (carousel at road america) and making small adjustments. Yes I have this issue with my G27, there is a lot of play in the center position and it blows. The FFB also is so weak which is a real hindrance in some games, especially ACC has practically no feedback whatsoever and also in iRacing I mainly react on what I can see and hear and not so much on what I can feel. But the hardest part is braking consistently. I think upgrading to a loadcell kit would do more than the wheelbase in regards to lap times, but a better wheelbase would probably make consistency easier (me getting better would probably be the biggest help to be fair). The notches are annoying, but not overly bothersome indeed. As I love to play some Gran Turismo as well, I am hoping the PS DD will be up for order soon to finally upgrade. The G27 is old and did it's thing. DaitoX fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Sep 26, 2021 |
# ? Sep 26, 2021 20:38 |
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i'm still playing with a driving force GT so I've been scouring marketplace and craigslist and not finding any spectacular deals
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 02:14 |
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Upgrade your pedals before your wheels, people. If you want to go faster, a load cell brake is the ticket, not belt drive or direct drive.
Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Sep 27, 2021 |
# ? Sep 27, 2021 02:25 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Upgrade your pedals before your wheels, people. If you want to go faster, a load cell brake is the ticket, not belt drive or direct drive. Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that?
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 02:52 |
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Fhqwhgads posted:Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that? People have made mod kits for adding a load cell to the Logitech pedals but I'm pretty sure you could use a standalone set of pedals like Fanatec CSL Elites with them just by unplugging the G29 pedals from the wheel.
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 03:47 |
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Fhqwhgads posted:Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that? Yep you just use the wheel input for the steering and select the USB connected pedals for the braking/clutch/accelerator axis input. Your computer just sees a game controller with a number of axis', you could use the y or x axis on a gamepad thumbstick to control this stuff if you were so inclined. e; If anyone reading this has the g29 pedals (maybe the g27 too) you can put a little strip of velcro on where the pedals top out (like when you come off the pedal) and it makes it 100% silent which is a huge upgrade from the loud metal-on-metal experience you get stock. You can see it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiesEdzZFM8 VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Sep 27, 2021 |
# ? Sep 27, 2021 05:27 |
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Yeah I used my thrust master pedals with a Logitech wheel I did need an adapter but that was it. I have a Frankenstein system and it works with every game I throw it at. Thrust master pedals, fanatec base, thrust master shifter.
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 13:02 |
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Fhqwhgads posted:Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that? Since this is the PC thread, I’ll assume you’re on a PC, so you can just run two separate devices. Personally I run a t300rs wheel with Fanatec CSL Elite load cell pedals. Windows just sees two devices and that’s fine. Any modern game is smart enough to accept input from multiple devices. I have yet to run into a game that won’t do it The only problem with separating your wheel and pedals is on consoles because they expect one device that does all of it, not two, but you can even get around that with a gimx device. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Sep 27, 2021 |
# ? Sep 27, 2021 13:26 |
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I've been looking for the T-LCM pedal set for months, it's really hard to find right now. edit: lol because i made this post before checking amazon and they're some how on there right now ethanol fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Sep 27, 2021 |
# ? Sep 27, 2021 13:56 |
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ethanol posted:I've been looking for the T-LCM pedal set for months, it's really hard to find right now. I saw a set at my local Micro Center (Boston) last week
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 15:57 |
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GutBomb posted:I saw a set at my local Micro Center (Boston) last week driving into boston is the worst thing ever and despite that microcenter being there i will never willing go anywhere but straight to logan international on a bus, also it's a 3 hour one way trip, but anyways I finally ordered that set on amazon. hopefully my t300 continues to work fine. I still need to get a cheap seat and 3 cheap monitors but I think after the pedals and some other dumb poo poo I bought, irl snow tires should probably be purchased first... probably
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# ? Sep 27, 2021 16:50 |
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I wish I was as fast as my cat. https://i.imgur.com/ucpd16s.mp4
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 19:57 |
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Cat's clearly using cheats with acceleration like that.
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 20:06 |
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Tire softening mod
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 20:12 |
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Are the club sport v3 pedals a big enough upgrade over the CSL elite loadcell pedals to warrant the cost? I’m thinking about the more consistent braking of the v3’s and I can probably also sell the CSL elite loadcell setup to a friend who’s still rocking the G920 stock pedals for a good upgrade
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# ? Oct 2, 2021 20:18 |
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Pretty intrigued by the CSL DD aiming to bring direct drive to the masses--something to keep an eye on as hopefully it ushers in some solid improvements for well priced sim racing hardware in the next year or two. Disappointed looking through Fanatec's steering wheels though since they don't have a cheap "general" solution--the budget options either lacking being round (McLaren) or buttons you can push easily while driving (WRC) and jumping $100 to more well-rounded () options. Sashimi posted:Looking to finally upgrade from my ancient Logitech Momo. G29s are on sale in my neck of the woods for $299 CAD, plus another $80 for the shifter. Is this still the wheel to get for a casual sim racer considering the G923 is going for $500? shortspecialbus posted:I'd recommend thrustmaster over Logitech solely because I like belt drive more than gear drive for inexpensive wheels. The Logitech ones are fine though - they're just a bit notchy, especially around the center. It annoys some people more than others. I used a G27 for about 5 years before my Thrustmaster TS-XW and then finally the simucube 2, so it's not like the Logitech is unusable. Have had it since 2015, but only have used for under a year with a 5 year gap in between where I fell out of love with sim racing--in part due to getting the wheel, but not a cockpit, and having the significant setup/teardown time whenever I wanted to race and it being janky as hell connected to a desk with pedals sitting on carpeted floor. Getting a cockpit that can be moved has been a game changer--roll away desk chair, slide in cockpit, plug in power/USB, plop my butt down, and drive. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Upgrade your pedals before your wheels, people. If you want to go faster, a load cell brake is the ticket, not belt drive or direct drive. Is there a general go to recommendation for budget pedals with load cell? Fanatec CSL pedals w/ load cell kit? Although looks like their website doesn't have the load cell kit anywhere I can see.
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# ? Oct 3, 2021 22:58 |
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bUm posted:Pretty intrigued by the CSL DD aiming to bring direct drive to the masses--something to keep an eye on as hopefully it ushers in some solid improvements for well priced sim racing hardware in the next year or two. I went from G29 to the Fanatec CSL Elite w/load cell and yes that's the budget option and honestly I don't feel any really push to get anything better - and I love wasting money on stupid poo poo. For the wheel, in your situation you might just want to buy the CSL universal button pod and then get a round wheel from ebay. Otherwise the ClubSport Steering Wheel RS is available for preorder and probably is the next cheapest option. I have the P1 wheel and the Formula V2 wheel, I swap the p1 on when I want to do some rallying and leave the V2 on for literally every car - I just change the steering rack ratio in iRacing for the trucks.
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# ? Oct 3, 2021 23:04 |
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VelociBacon posted:For the wheel, in your situation you might just want to buy the CSL universal button pod and then get a round wheel from ebay. Otherwise the ClubSport Steering Wheel RS is available for preorder and probably is the next cheapest option. Wasn't looking to replace my wheel too near term anyway, but that's good to know about for if/when I do since, yeah, there are plenty of options under $50 on eBay/Amazon.
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# ? Oct 4, 2021 00:13 |
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Just be aware it's definitely the budget option, so you'll run into flexing issues if you go over 300mm wheel diameter (the hub can extend to reposition shifters/buttons but because it's plastic the extra length levers against the main body a bit).
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# ? Oct 4, 2021 00:25 |
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bUm posted:Pretty intrigued by the CSL DD aiming to bring direct drive to the masses--something to keep an eye on as hopefully it ushers in some solid improvements for well priced sim racing hardware in the next year or two. I see it only on the EU site, not the US site.
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# ? Oct 4, 2021 00:49 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Are the club sport v3 pedals a big enough upgrade over the CSL elite loadcell pedals to warrant the cost? I ended up ordering the V3's yesterday since The CSL elite's are discontinued and the new CSL pedals dont have an LC brake set. After looking at a lot of videos to see if I should wait vs paying $120 more over used Elites I decided to pull the trigger. Reviewers like them. "Worth it" over the Elite's seems subjective a lot of folks say Yes some folks say No (based on my YT watches). the vibration motors aren't very useful from what most folks say. The gas pedal and clutch are a good upgrade, the brakes are 100% subjective and a split from what folks are saying.. some say "I got more time out of them" some say "they're okay", They are easily adjustable and lots of folks recommend the Performance kit. I grabbed because even if I don't kneed it was 30bux. If I did need they wanted 12 to ship on it's own so I figured why not have just in case.
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# ? Oct 4, 2021 13:29 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 05:46 |
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Feel like I’m bumping into the issue on the CSL’s where you can get different braking forces based on where your foot is on the pedal due to how the load cell is mounted in the pedal. From that standpoint I’d imagine the V3’s are a solid upgrade because they just don’t have that issue. Also, are you in the US? If so, what are they quoting you for shipping times? Has the pandemic hosed the V3’s or are they pretty good about shipping yet?
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# ? Oct 4, 2021 14:53 |