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GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?
I am a serial wheel buyer/seller. I’ll buy a wheel, use it for a while, want to try a different one, so I sell it on eBay, SA mart, or Craigslist, and get something else and start that whole cycle over again, sometimes going back to the same wheel or similar to what I had before. Through that time I’ve had 5 or 6 belt driven thrustmaster wheels, 2 g920s, one g27, one fanatec csr, and one fanatec 911 gt2 RS.

My first thrustmaster wheel (a thrustmaster TX) worked fine for a couple of hours but then it died. I RMA’d it and a couple weeks later got a replacement that worked fine for the duration of time that I kept it before selling it. My second thrustmaster tx died within 15 minutes. I took it back to micro center and got a replacement that worked until I sold it many months later. My third thrustmaster tx died within a week with maybe 10 hours of use, RMA’d it, and the replacement worked for over a year, when I sold it. With that last one The RMA procedure was not even a return, I just had to cut the USB cable off the wheel base and send them a picture to prove I did it. So after I took the picture I soldered the cable back on and replaced the power supply and it worked fine. I sold it to a goon on SA mart (disclosing its history of course) and I think it’s still working.

The other thrustmaster wheels I had all lasted for the duration of time that I owned them. I know it’s not a huge sample size, but 100% of the thrustmaster wheels that died on me died within the first week, which should fall into any decent store’s return window. For me, if it didn’t die within the first week (and for the most part in the first day) it wasn’t going to die.

GutBomb fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Sep 25, 2021

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Play
Apr 25, 2006

Strong stroll for a mangy stray
I'm not incredibly experienced with high-quality wheels, I've only owned a Logitech G29 and a CSL Elite wheel/base and pedals. What I do know is that I returned the Logitech after less than a week, the force feedback was a joke and it didn't correctly interface with several of my favorite games, pretty surprisingly.

The CSL Elite is not too pricy at all either, I think I paid around 500 total including wheel, base, and pedals then add a bit for shifter if you need that (although it does come with paddle shifters so you aren't totally out of luck before you get a shifter).

Confusingly though, I can't actually find the set I got on Fanatec, the CSL Elites seem to be sold out, by and large.

e: actually, pretty much everything seems to be sold out...

necrotic
Aug 2, 2005
I owe my brother big time for this!
Yeah fanatec has a huge backlog right now :( I’m hoping my order actually ships at the end of October like it’s supposed to.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


My t300 bases lasted something like 26-28 months.

Someone online has a guide to take em apart and use a laptop adapter but I could never be assed to do it.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

I think the CSL elite is out of production now. The CSL DD is replacing it.

Play
Apr 25, 2006

Strong stroll for a mangy stray

MrYenko posted:

I think the CSL elite is out of production now. The CSL DD is replacing it.

Yeah it seems that way. Looks like the price is not too dissimilar, so I guess that makes sense.

It was a nice budget wheelbase though, and I like the rev LCDs on it. I guess if you can afford the DD setup it's probably a better idea anyways.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Do not buy a first-gen fanatec product

They do eventually get them right but usually not on the first try

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Do not buy a first-gen fanatec product

They do eventually get them right but usually not on the first try

Counterpoint: the CSL DD is amazing and doesn't seem to have any glaring issues (other than not being able to get one without preordering right now)

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




It’s not even out yet……

Fellblade
Apr 28, 2009
It's got a massive backlog but several people in the discord have them already, granted it's mostly people who ordered them during the first few hours they were available but they all seem to love them.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I’m sure they’re fantastic and I have a fanatec wheel kicking around specifically because I’ll probably eventually get one to mount it to, but I want a couple thousand people to have them in their hands before me

Essobie
Jan 31, 2003

WHAT? THIS IS MY REGULAR SPEAKING VOICE.
Is this better?
Thrustmaster T300RS owner here since Dec 2017. Zero problems with overheating or dying or whatever. I've modded the wheel with this cool Acelith F1 style wheel plate which breathed new life into it (and made room for my keyboard to be under the wheel at my rig). I'll probably upgrade to a DD when this eventually dies, but it seems like as long as I don't plug it into a suspect power source, let the fan time out on its own after use, and generally don't mistreat it... it might be another 4+ years before I need a new wheel.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




2018 here. Love my t300rs. I know others have had issues but mine has been rock solid since day one.

That F1 kit is rad and if I didn’t already have the Thrustmaster F1 wheel I’d be clicking “Buy” instead of posting this.

peter gabriel
Nov 8, 2011

Hello Commandos
They didn't put enough ventilation on early t300's, I still have my later one and it's been good

Theris
Oct 9, 2007

I bought my TS-PC in December '17. It made it to May of '18 before it remembered that it is a Thrustmaster and the PSU went bad. RMA was relatively painless and it's been fine ever since.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Whenever the G29 comes up I'm always surprised to see that noone is mentioning what I found to be the biggest issue with it - there is a 30 degree or so area, 15 deg from top center on both sides, where there's basically no feedback or centering force. Once you're past that point it's completely serviceable and lots of people drive very well with 'cheap' wheels like that. I noticed the notching from the gears but honestly wasn't bothered by it overmuch. It was most noticeable in situations where you're holding a line through a long corner (carousel at road america) and making small adjustments.

I stepped up to a CSL Elite base and it's just a nicer experience in every way. It's smooth, doesn't have any dead spots like that, it's quiet, and it's strong enough (mostly) in it's feedback that I don't find myself wanting more. You also get access to all the fanatec wheels and there's some absolute bangers in there (formula v2). I know the DD stuff is 'smoother' as well as being stronger but I wonder how much nicer I'd find it.

Essobie
Jan 31, 2003

WHAT? THIS IS MY REGULAR SPEAKING VOICE.
Is this better?

VelociBacon posted:

I stepped up to a CSL Elite base and it's just a nicer experience in every way. It's smooth, doesn't have any dead spots like that, it's quiet, and it's strong enough (mostly) in it's feedback that I don't find myself wanting more. You also get access to all the fanatec wheels and there's some absolute bangers in there (formula v2). I know the DD stuff is 'smoother' as well as being stronger but I wonder how much nicer I'd find it.

Heh... the main reason I haven't upgraded to a DD wheel is that I'm fearful that it'll either be 1) not enough difference for me to justify the expense and trouble of mounting a different wheel base or 2) that the difference is so drastic that I'll kick myself for not doing it sooner. I don't think there's any winning this one.

I guess if I was putting multiple hours in the sim rig daily I'd just pull the trigger, but as it is now I probably sit in the rig maybe a couple of hours every other day or so, more on the weekends. I think I'll upgrade the bucket seat before I do the wheel... and the one I have my eye on is probably going to be more than a DD wheel base + wheel combo.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

Essobie posted:

Heh... the main reason I haven't upgraded to a DD wheel is that I'm fearful that it'll either be 1) not enough difference for me to justify the expense and trouble of mounting a different wheel base or 2) that the difference is so drastic that I'll kick myself for not doing it sooner. I don't think there's any winning this one.

There’s a local sim racing gear shop (somefucking how I don’t understand) that has rigs to try, and I have very specifically not gone done there because I know it ends up with me leaving with new pedals and a DD2.

:homebrew:

DaitoX
Mar 1, 2008

VelociBacon posted:

Whenever the G29 comes up I'm always surprised to see that noone is mentioning what I found to be the biggest issue with it - there is a 30 degree or so area, 15 deg from top center on both sides, where there's basically no feedback or centering force. Once you're past that point it's completely serviceable and lots of people drive very well with 'cheap' wheels like that. I noticed the notching from the gears but honestly wasn't bothered by it overmuch. It was most noticeable in situations where you're holding a line through a long corner (carousel at road america) and making small adjustments.

I stepped up to a CSL Elite base and it's just a nicer experience in every way. It's smooth, doesn't have any dead spots like that, it's quiet, and it's strong enough (mostly) in it's feedback that I don't find myself wanting more. You also get access to all the fanatec wheels and there's some absolute bangers in there (formula v2). I know the DD stuff is 'smoother' as well as being stronger but I wonder how much nicer I'd find it.

Yes I have this issue with my G27, there is a lot of play in the center position and it blows.

The FFB also is so weak which is a real hindrance in some games, especially ACC has practically no feedback whatsoever and also in iRacing I mainly react on what I can see and hear and not so much on what I can feel. But the hardest part is braking consistently. I think upgrading to a loadcell kit would do more than the wheelbase in regards to lap times, but a better wheelbase would probably make consistency easier (me getting better would probably be the biggest help to be fair). The notches are annoying, but not overly bothersome indeed.

As I love to play some Gran Turismo as well, I am hoping the PS DD will be up for order soon to finally upgrade. The G27 is old and did it's thing.

DaitoX fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Sep 26, 2021

Aardvark Barber
Sep 7, 2007

Delivery in less than two minutes or your money back!


i'm still playing with a driving force GT so I've been scouring marketplace and craigslist and not finding any spectacular deals

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Upgrade your pedals before your wheels, people. If you want to go faster, a load cell brake is the ticket, not belt drive or direct drive.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Sep 27, 2021

Fhqwhgads
Jul 18, 2003

I AM THE ONLY ONE IN THIS GAME WHO GETS LAID

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Upgrade your pedals before your wheels, people. If you want to go faster, a load cell brake is the ticket, not belt drive or direct drive.

Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that?

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


Fhqwhgads posted:

Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that?

People have made mod kits for adding a load cell to the Logitech pedals but I'm pretty sure you could use a standalone set of pedals like Fanatec CSL Elites with them just by unplugging the G29 pedals from the wheel.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Fhqwhgads posted:

Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that?

Yep you just use the wheel input for the steering and select the USB connected pedals for the braking/clutch/accelerator axis input. Your computer just sees a game controller with a number of axis', you could use the y or x axis on a gamepad thumbstick to control this stuff if you were so inclined.

e; If anyone reading this has the g29 pedals (maybe the g27 too) you can put a little strip of velcro on where the pedals top out (like when you come off the pedal) and it makes it 100% silent which is a huge upgrade from the loud metal-on-metal experience you get stock.

You can see it here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiesEdzZFM8

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Sep 27, 2021

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Yeah I used my thrust master pedals with a Logitech wheel I did need an adapter but that was it. I have a Frankenstein system and it works with every game I throw it at.

Thrust master pedals, fanatec base, thrust master shifter.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Fhqwhgads posted:

Is that possible to do with a G29? Without modding it myself, I mean. Is there a pedal set you can just buy that just connects to the G29/GHub software, or do I have to move away from the G29 altogether to do that?

Since this is the PC thread, I’ll assume you’re on a PC, so you can just run two separate devices. Personally I run a t300rs wheel with Fanatec CSL Elite load cell pedals.

Windows just sees two devices and that’s fine. Any modern game is smart enough to accept input from multiple devices. I have yet to run into a game that won’t do it

The only problem with separating your wheel and pedals is on consoles because they expect one device that does all of it, not two, but you can even get around that with a gimx device.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Sep 27, 2021

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I've been looking for the T-LCM pedal set for months, it's really hard to find right now.

edit: lol because i made this post before checking amazon and they're some how on there right now

ethanol fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Sep 27, 2021

GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?

ethanol posted:

I've been looking for the T-LCM pedal set for months, it's really hard to find right now.

edit: lol because i made this post before checking amazon and they're some how on there right now

I saw a set at my local Micro Center (Boston) last week

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



GutBomb posted:

I saw a set at my local Micro Center (Boston) last week

driving into boston is the worst thing ever and despite that microcenter being there i will never willing go anywhere but straight to logan international on a bus, also it's a 3 hour one way trip, but anyways I finally ordered that set on amazon. hopefully my t300 continues to work fine. I still need to get a cheap seat and 3 cheap monitors but I think after the pedals and some other dumb poo poo I bought, irl snow tires should probably be purchased first... probably

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I wish I was as fast as my cat.

https://i.imgur.com/ucpd16s.mp4

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


Cat's clearly using cheats with acceleration like that.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Tire softening mod

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Are the club sport v3 pedals a big enough upgrade over the CSL elite loadcell pedals to warrant the cost?

I’m thinking about the more consistent braking of the v3’s and I can probably also sell the CSL elite loadcell setup to a friend who’s still rocking the G920 stock pedals for a good upgrade

bUm
Jan 11, 2011
Pretty intrigued by the CSL DD aiming to bring direct drive to the masses--something to keep an eye on as hopefully it ushers in some solid improvements for well priced sim racing hardware in the next year or two.

Disappointed looking through Fanatec's steering wheels though since they don't have a cheap "general" solution--the budget options either lacking being round (McLaren) or buttons you can push easily while driving (WRC) and jumping $100 to more well-rounded (:imunfunny:) options.

Sashimi posted:

Looking to finally upgrade from my ancient Logitech Momo. G29s are on sale in my neck of the woods for $299 CAD, plus another $80 for the shifter. Is this still the wheel to get for a casual sim racer considering the G923 is going for $500?

shortspecialbus posted:

I'd recommend thrustmaster over Logitech solely because I like belt drive more than gear drive for inexpensive wheels. The Logitech ones are fine though - they're just a bit notchy, especially around the center. It annoys some people more than others. I used a G27 for about 5 years before my Thrustmaster TS-XW and then finally the simucube 2, so it's not like the Logitech is unusable.
Have nothing to compare it to, but have quite liked my Thrustmaster T-150 as a budget wheel and liked the idea of belt-driven (even if cheaply) over geared based on reviews when I got it.

Have had it since 2015, but only have used for under a year with a 5 year gap in between where I fell out of love with sim racing--in part due to getting the wheel, but not a cockpit, and having the significant setup/teardown time whenever I wanted to race and it being janky as hell connected to a desk with pedals sitting on carpeted floor. Getting a cockpit that can be moved has been a game changer--roll away desk chair, slide in cockpit, plug in power/USB, plop my butt down, and drive. :getin:

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Upgrade your pedals before your wheels, people. If you want to go faster, a load cell brake is the ticket, not belt drive or direct drive.
I've been feeling this getting deep into F1 2021 because the cool career stuff--all the videos about going faster on about the importance of trail braking in F1 cars and it's really hard to do right with the very minimal brake resistance of the T-150's base pedals.

Is there a general go to recommendation for budget pedals with load cell? Fanatec CSL pedals w/ load cell kit? Although looks like their website doesn't have the load cell kit anywhere I can see.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

bUm posted:

Pretty intrigued by the CSL DD aiming to bring direct drive to the masses--something to keep an eye on as hopefully it ushers in some solid improvements for well priced sim racing hardware in the next year or two.

Disappointed looking through Fanatec's steering wheels though since they don't have a cheap "general" solution--the budget options either lacking being round (McLaren) or buttons you can push easily while driving (WRC) and jumping $100 to more well-rounded (:imunfunny:) options.


I've been feeling this getting deep into F1 2021 because the cool career stuff--all the videos about going faster on about the importance of trail braking in F1 cars and it's really hard to do right with the very minimal brake resistance of the T-150's base pedals.

Is there a general go to recommendation for budget pedals with load cell? Fanatec CSL pedals w/ load cell kit? Although looks like their website doesn't have the load cell kit anywhere I can see.

I went from G29 to the Fanatec CSL Elite w/load cell and yes that's the budget option and honestly I don't feel any really push to get anything better - and I love wasting money on stupid poo poo.

For the wheel, in your situation you might just want to buy the CSL universal button pod and then get a round wheel from ebay. Otherwise the ClubSport Steering Wheel RS is available for preorder and probably is the next cheapest option.

I have the P1 wheel and the Formula V2 wheel, I swap the p1 on when I want to do some rallying and leave the V2 on for literally every car - I just change the steering rack ratio in iRacing for the trucks.

bUm
Jan 11, 2011

VelociBacon posted:

For the wheel, in your situation you might just want to buy the CSL universal button pod and then get a round wheel from ebay. Otherwise the ClubSport Steering Wheel RS is available for preorder and probably is the next cheapest option.
Oh, wow, hadn't even realized that's what that universal hub was for. That's pretty neat. Got distracted by the list of Fanatec compatible wheels in there before without realizing it's good for many 3rd party wheels. Maybe a little light on buttons for some games though.

Wasn't looking to replace my wheel too near term anyway, but that's good to know about for if/when I do since, yeah, there are plenty of options under $50 on eBay/Amazon.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about
Just be aware it's definitely the budget option, so you'll run into flexing issues if you go over 300mm wheel diameter (the hub can extend to reposition shifters/buttons but because it's plastic the extra length levers against the main body a bit).

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




bUm posted:

Pretty intrigued by the CSL DD aiming to bring direct drive to the masses--something to keep an eye on as hopefully it ushers in some solid improvements for well priced sim racing hardware in the next year or two.

Disappointed looking through Fanatec's steering wheels though since they don't have a cheap "general" solution--the budget options either lacking being round (McLaren) or buttons you can push easily while driving (WRC) and jumping $100 to more well-rounded (:imunfunny:) options.



Have nothing to compare it to, but have quite liked my Thrustmaster T-150 as a budget wheel and liked the idea of belt-driven (even if cheaply) over geared based on reviews when I got it.

Have had it since 2015, but only have used for under a year with a 5 year gap in between where I fell out of love with sim racing--in part due to getting the wheel, but not a cockpit, and having the significant setup/teardown time whenever I wanted to race and it being janky as hell connected to a desk with pedals sitting on carpeted floor. Getting a cockpit that can be moved has been a game changer--roll away desk chair, slide in cockpit, plug in power/USB, plop my butt down, and drive. :getin:

I've been feeling this getting deep into F1 2021 because the cool career stuff--all the videos about going faster on about the importance of trail braking in F1 cars and it's really hard to do right with the very minimal brake resistance of the T-150's base pedals.

Is there a general go to recommendation for budget pedals with load cell? Fanatec CSL pedals w/ load cell kit? Although looks like their website doesn't have the load cell kit anywhere I can see.

I see it only on the EU site, not the US site. :iiam:

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Are the club sport v3 pedals a big enough upgrade over the CSL elite loadcell pedals to warrant the cost?

I’m thinking about the more consistent braking of the v3’s and I can probably also sell the CSL elite loadcell setup to a friend who’s still rocking the G920 stock pedals for a good upgrade

I ended up ordering the V3's yesterday since The CSL elite's are discontinued and the new CSL pedals dont have an LC brake set.

After looking at a lot of videos to see if I should wait vs paying $120 more over used Elites I decided to pull the trigger.

Reviewers like them. "Worth it" over the Elite's seems subjective a lot of folks say Yes some folks say No (based on my YT watches).
the vibration motors aren't very useful from what most folks say.
The gas pedal and clutch are a good upgrade, the brakes are 100% subjective and a split from what folks are saying.. some say "I got more time out of them" some say "they're okay", They are easily adjustable and lots of folks recommend the Performance kit. I grabbed because even if I don't kneed it was 30bux. If I did need they wanted 12 to ship on it's own so I figured why not have just in case.

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Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Feel like I’m bumping into the issue on the CSL’s where you can get different braking forces based on where your foot is on the pedal due to how the load cell is mounted in the pedal. From that standpoint I’d imagine the V3’s are a solid upgrade because they just don’t have that issue.

Also, are you in the US? If so, what are they quoting you for shipping times? Has the pandemic hosed the V3’s or are they pretty good about shipping yet?

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