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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I would think the weight of a battery would make using a die grinder on small stuff really annoying for longer periods. Do you have a big compressor/is pneumatic an option? My thinking as well. Yup, whatcha thinking
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Sep 29, 2021 17:46
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Apparently Bosch has two different and incompatible 18v systems. Nice discovery. At least I can return this useless and expensive battery that I bought
Sous Videodrome fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Sep 30, 2021 |
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Sep 30, 2021 23:09
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Sous Videodrome posted:Apparently Bosch has two different and incompatible 18v systems. Nice discovery. At least I can return this useless and expensive battery that I bought Bosch? Overly complicated??? 
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Sep 30, 2021 23:15
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Even better: All batteries EXCEPT for the one that I bought are compatible with both lines. The one I bought, the big one, is only compatible with the line of tools that I don't own.
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Sep 30, 2021 23:18
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I've a question for the thread, and this seemed like the best place to ask it. My main home office chair had an M5 hex-head screw break inside the socket holding one of the arms on. There's ~2/3 of an inch left in there. I know there are screw extractors, but 1) I'm worried about damaging the threads, and 2) every screw extractor kit I know of seems to imply there needs to be more of the screw left than 2/3", and the broken part of said screw is a little over an inch inside the socket. I thought about going in there with a drill bit and trying to cut a column just wide enough to get a flat head screwdriver in there, but there's not a lot of room to work with. Does anyone have any tips and tricks? I should also mention I've got an order for a replacement chair out, so my attempts here are merely to try and salvage this current left-arm-less chair for someone else's use. Here's a picture of an undamaged screw and the broken one to give an example of what's stuck inside the socket: 
BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Sep 30, 2021 23:58
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What's always worked best for me is to drill right down the center of the screw with the largest bit I can get in there without hurting anything and then jam the tightest allen wrench I can fit in my drilled hole. For some reason, I really don't know why, this has worked for me like a million times.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:10
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I think the main issue with a screw extractor bit is that the bits in my experience aren't typically all that long. It looks like you need a bit that's at least 2.5" long just to get from the drill to the broken-off shaft of the bolt, and then you still need some material left to dig into the bolt so you can extract it. You could maybe glue the extractor bit to a bit of steel rod to get some extra length...if you can weld, that'd be a superior option, because I doubt that glue would handle the torque very well.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:11
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Literally A Person posted:What's always worked best for me is to drill right down the center of the screw with the largest bit I can get in there without hurting anything and then jam the tightest allen wrench I can fit in my drilled hole. For some reason, I really don't know why, this has worked for me like a million times. I'll give this a shot as I unfortunately would have to take it someplace to weld. I'll have to get a punch, though - thankfully the shear line is pretty flat and I already have an extensive set of imperial and metric allen wrenches. Now I just have to find better screws to replace the stock ones with. And yeah, I'm aware "harder and stronger" can mean "more brittle and prone to breakage" over the long run.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:47
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M12 Die Grinder is amazing.
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Oct 1, 2021 05:12
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Habitat Restore haul of the century:
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Oct 1, 2021 18:03
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NomNomNom posted:Habitat Restore haul of the century: Okay Big Shot, tell us how cheap so we can all congratulate you.
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Oct 2, 2021 01:15
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So provided I can get the screw out without damaging it, I'm doing research into augmenting what I'd assume are cut-rate Chinese steel screws with quality ones. I've found a website that'll sell single piece 12.9 Class steel screws for ~$3.50 apiece. Might sound like overkill, but when it comes to not having to worry about something, ~$15 over multiple years doesn't sound like a bad bargain.
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Oct 2, 2021 01:18
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Literally A Ghost posted:Okay Big Shot, tell us how cheap so we can all congratulate you. Crap, thought I added that. $45 for the chest and $25 for the bandsaw.
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Oct 2, 2021 01:37
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BIG HEADLINE posted:So provided I can get the screw out without damaging it, I'm doing research into augmenting what I'd assume are cut-rate Chinese steel screws with quality ones. I've found a website that'll sell single piece 12.9 Class steel screws for ~$3.50 apiece. Might sound like overkill, but when it comes to not having to worry about something, ~$15 over multiple years doesn't sound like a bad bargain.
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Oct 2, 2021 01:48
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NomNomNom posted:Crap, thought I added that. $45 for the chest and $25 for the bandsaw. I hate you.
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Oct 2, 2021 01:49
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So much right now
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Oct 2, 2021 02:17
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wesleywillis posted:Go to any hardware store and get screws the proper length and thread. Grade 5 should be sufficient. If you really want to go crazy, get grade 8. They'll probably cost less than 5 bucks to replace all of them. This. The poo poo included with any furniture like that is below-cheese-grade, even the absolute cheapest hardware at the nearest Ace will be stronger.
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Oct 2, 2021 05:01
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Cheap old tools always make me smile. Got these a couple days ago. $75USD total Craftsman Pro 10in 15A compound miter saw + accessory kit.  Craftsman 8.25in Radial Arm Saw.  And then these are some oddities that I got from family. First is a band saw built by my Granddads brother, my great uncle. It works. Free  Then Granddads compressor. Has a bit of a leak from one of the fittings I'll have to fix but no big deal. Works fine. Free  And maybe the most interesting thing, Great Granddads (in this case my Dads Dads Dad) table saw. Not planning on using it since I have several others, though it also works. I think the cart is handmade and is pretty cool. I don't think it was even electric to begin with and Grandpa added the electric motor. Good portions of my grandparents and parents houses were built with this. Free 
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Oct 2, 2021 20:12
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What's the best way to secure a smaller two piece rolling tool chest to the wall to prevent tipping over? If one of my kids got into the garage and pulled it over on them, it'd be very bad news. e: basically a base cabinet identical to the one nomnomnom posted above with a heavy bench top tool chest stacked on top to continue the theme of the above post, both tool chests came fully loaded with grandpa's tools, including a drawer of automotive specialty mystery tools brugroffil fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 20:29
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I'd bolt, screw, or rivet an anti tip bracket to it. Maybe someone else knows of a tool chest specific one. https://www.google.com/search?q=anti+tip+bracket
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Oct 2, 2021 20:35
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brugroffil posted:What's the best way to secure a smaller two piece rolling tool chest to the wall to prevent tipping over? If one of my kids got into the garage and pulled it over on them, it'd be very bad news. If you want to move it on occasion, a couple eye bolts in to studs at the right level and a cheap ratchet strap secured around the box right near the top where there are no drawers to obscure/impede the opening of.
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Oct 3, 2021 02:12
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Sedgr posted:
It looks so small and tiny, who knew it's made of compressed neutron star?
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Oct 3, 2021 15:08
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It is impressively dense. Lots of cast iron and steel. Whether thats a benefit of older stuff or not is a bit of a debate but it sure feels solid. Not a huge fan of the plastic handle but I may make something different and replace it.
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Oct 3, 2021 18:24
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If I want to cut specific angles in a length of wood, there's really no good way outside of getting a power miter saw, right? Heck, I'm not even really great at doing straight cuts in 2x4s with my circular saw and a speed square. I'm not ready for the DWS780, or even the DWS779. I know the difference between single-bevel and dual-bevel, and I'm fine with single-bevel. Beyond that I'm not really sure what to look out for or what to avoid. For example, any big advantages or disadvantages to these options? They all look fairly similar to me, 10" single-bevel miter, 15 amp, 5000 RPM. Metabo HPT® 15-Amp 10" Corded Single-Bevel Compound Miter Saw Delta ShopMaster® 15-Amp 10" Corded Single-Bevel Compound Miter Saw with Laser RYOBI 10 in. Compound Miter Saw with LED Comedy Harbor Freight option: CHICAGO ELECTRIC 10 In. Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw I recognize "Delta" but that brand has been sold so much I have no idea what it's like these days. I've seen good things about Metabo (formerly Hitachi) here, I'm happy with my Ryobi cordless tool so they seem like a safe bet for a basic meter saw. And then comedy Harbor Freight. Anything gonna disintegrate after 1 cut, or accidentally explode and embed saw blade debris in my chest as I use it?
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Oct 4, 2021 18:12
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FISHMANPET posted:If I want to cut specific angles in a length of wood, there's really no good way outside of getting a power miter saw, right? Heck, I'm not even really great at doing straight cuts in 2x4s with my circular saw and a speed square. I have that metabo (from like 8-10 years ago when they were hitachi) and it's been a warhorse for many many years. It's not the best saw but it cuts wood and does it well. I don't know about the delta or Ryobi quality Dont go with the Harborfreight one it's sloppy and poo poo, my FIL tried to build a deck with it and I went home and got my hitachi becuase it was that poorly made.
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Oct 4, 2021 19:01
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I have the big 12” Delta “slider” (it’s got the arms like a Bosch glide) and god drat if that miter saw doesn’t fuckin rule
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Oct 4, 2021 21:08
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I have a 12" Hitachi Double bevel and the only thing I regret is that it doesn't slide. I don't have a table saw so it's my go-to for projects. It's super useful. I've done decking, built a trellis, framed walls, etc. The most complicated thing I've handled with it was upper trim in a bathroom with an angled roof. Somehow the math on that is very complicated to get right.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:12
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Sockser posted:I have the big 12” Delta “slider” (it’s got the arms like a Bosch glide) and god drat if that miter saw doesn’t fuckin rule Is this the Cruzer? I've really been wanting to see one in person. Also for it to be in stock somewhere. My local HD has the Bosch on display and it really is a thing of beauty, but it sure is a big SOB. And pricey!
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Oct 4, 2021 21:18
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 Y'all got me considering bidding on this clamp auction and I have 0 projects in the near future that require more clamps!
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Oct 4, 2021 21:35
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My theory on harbor freight is not to trust anything that rotates or moves at extremely high speeds, needs extremely high pressures, or needs absolute precision ... Or anything your life depends on. The simpler device the better. Other than that harbor freight is okay for what it is. Great for tool storage and hand tools. Plus those one off things you need for a project and nothing else. I'm fortunate to have a tool library down the street now so hopefully less of that in the future.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:38
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Rufio posted:Is this the Cruzer? I've really been wanting to see one in person. Also for it to be in stock somewhere. Yup yup that’s the guy I wanted to capacity of a slider but without all the loving required space in the back and AFAIK the only saws that don’t do that are Bosch, Delta, and Festool Paid $500 for the cruzer from menard’s last summer plus an 11% rebate that I never cashed in because it was actually just a menard’s gift card and I don’t live near a menards
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Oct 4, 2021 21:38
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Sockser posted:Yup yup that’s the guy Metabo HPT has one now, and Ridgid is selling a rebranded copy of the Delta now.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:42
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I have the Hercules (from harbor freight) 12" slider and its been fine. Goes on sale for $300 regularly. Cut straight out of the box, makes accurate miters. Shadow line feature is nice. I'd trade it in a heartbeat for one the articulating saws though, it takes a ton of room.
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Oct 4, 2021 23:08
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more falafel please posted:Metabo HPT has one now, and Ridgid is selling a rebranded copy of the Delta now. Makita as well for several years, I think only Dewalt and Milwaukee of the big names do not. The Makita uses a traditional sliding mechanism but with the rods to the front, like the Kapex, which I think longer term may be more accurate than the articulated arm style miters. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 23:20
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The problem with powered miter saws is that the dust collection is abysmal on all of them.
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Oct 5, 2021 02:41
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GEMorris posted:The problem with powered miter saws is that the dust collection is abysmal on all of them. This is true but it really is the nature of the beast until you start buying cray expensive stuff. Like nearly only stupid people cray expensive.
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Oct 5, 2021 02:47
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yet another problem a leaf blower fixes
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Oct 5, 2021 03:02
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more falafel please posted:Metabo HPT has one now, and Ridgid is selling a rebranded copy of the Delta now. I have the Metabo HPT one, and it's pretty nice. Dust collection isn't terrible, but I'm going to put a secondary fence on it to be safe. Ridgid is selling a bunch of Delta rebrands now. The 36-725T2 is being sold at HD in fetching orange now. When I saw one in the store I literally went into reverse gear and took a step backwards to make sure it was what I thought I was looking at. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Oct 5, 2021 |
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Oct 5, 2021 03:17
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Verman posted:My theory on harbor freight is not to trust anything that rotates or moves at extremely high speeds, needs extremely high pressures, or needs absolute precision ... Or anything your life depends on. The simpler device the better. Not a cheerleader for Harbor o' Fright, but I bought their tile saw for like a quarter of what a name brand saw would run and that sumbitch cuts top of the line. It was in fact, a single project of granite tile for my kitchen and drat well paid for itself. It's precise as hell, runs a 12" diamond blade at extremely high speed.
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Oct 5, 2021 03:22
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Literally A Ghost posted:This is true but it really is the nature of the beast until you start buying cray expensive stuff. Like nearly only stupid people cray expensive. The problem is its just a function of the how the tool works, even the Kapex's dust collection isn't fantastic. Fwiw I use a manual langdon falls miter box for small stuff and an mft-like+tracksaw for big stuff / bevels.
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Oct 5, 2021 03:28
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