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Honestly I'm sure I'd be fine with onboard graphics. The only niggle is that my only standalone monitor is from 2011 and is DVI-D only. Actually or is it, maybe that's not true. I'll check that.
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Oct 4, 2021 14:38
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roomtwofifteen posted:Is there a good guide anywhere for doing a wipe/fresh Windows install after upgrading parts, beyond the obvious? I replaced almost everything in my machine a few months ago and things have been fine, but I can't escape the nagging feeling that I should just do a fresh install to make sure I'm taking full advantage of my new parts. Backup whatever you don't want to lose and do a fresh install? I think the only 'gotcha' left is that you should only have the drive you want it installed to plugged in while doing the install. From what I've heard doing a fresh install isn't necessary if things are working fine, but as long as you don't accidentally lose data it's not like it hurts anything either.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:Honestly I'm sure I'd be fine with onboard graphics. The only niggle is that my only standalone monitor is from 2011 and is DVI-D only. Actually or is it, maybe that's not true. I'll check that. if you're using onboard it connects to the motherboard and those tend to have weirdly amazing connectivity for some reason? or a converter or whatever.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:09
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Jaded Burnout posted:Honestly I'm sure I'd be fine with onboard graphics. The only niggle is that my only standalone monitor is from 2011 and is DVI-D only. Actually or is it, maybe that's not true. I'll check that.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:23
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So I have just now been emailed (unprompted) by the client asking where to send a laptop, so I guess this decision is postponed for another year!
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Oct 4, 2021 15:24
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roomtwofifteen posted:Is there a good guide anywhere for doing a wipe/fresh Windows install after upgrading parts, beyond the obvious? I replaced almost everything in my machine a few months ago and things have been fine, but I can't escape the nagging feeling that I should just do a fresh install to make sure I'm taking full advantage of my new parts. Download Microsoft's "media creation tool" and it will make a bootable & up-to-date Windows 10 installer. Maybe wait a few days and there will be an updated version to make Windows 11 media if it isn't already available.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:29
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Any recommendations for a not too pricey amd4 (3900x) motherboard with a usb-c header?
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Oct 4, 2021 16:42
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So I have an old machine - An i5-2500K 3.3GHz with ASUS P8P67 PRO which is a PCI 2.0 x16 card built in 2011 with a Radeon HD 6950 2 GB videocard. I've been doing some gaming on it - nothing top tier, but older games and indy games and it's worked pretty well but some 3D games (outer wilds) start to chug and I'm wondering if it is worth it to buy a new video card, and if so which one. The video card landscape being such a mess, and the computer being so old make this a problem. Is there an obvious better card I could buy that would be better (eg. considering the PCI 2.0 nature of the MB)? Or would it not be worth it until I upgraded the whole thing?
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Oct 4, 2021 16:56
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Bone Crimes posted:So I have an old machine - An i5-2500K 3.3GHz with ASUS P8P67 PRO which is a PCI 2.0 x16 card built in 2011 with a Radeon HD 6950 2 GB videocard. I've been doing some gaming on it - nothing top tier, but older games and indy games and it's worked pretty well but some 3D games (outer wilds) start to chug and I'm wondering if it is worth it to buy a new video card, and if so which one. Are you overclocking it? Basically every 2500K could hit 4.3GHz, and a lot could run 4.5 or 4.6GHz. If you can find any GPU at a reasonable price, it'd be worth upgrading. The current market is so hosed though "reasonable price" doesn't make any sense. For what it's worth, I'm still running a 2500K. It has had over the years a Radeon HD 5850, AMD R9-290, and then a side-grade to a GTX 1060 that I bought for $100 less than I sold the 290 for. My 2500K @ 4.4GHz with a GTX 1060 runs everything that I want it to extremely well, including recent gorgeous looking games like Doom Eternal. In a normal world, I'd recommend a GTX 1660 / Ti or whatever GPU exists around $200, but the cheapest GPU in the world is $500 right now so you don't have any good options.
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Oct 4, 2021 17:39
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Twerk from Home posted:Are you overclocking it? Basically every 2500K could hit 4.3GHz, and a lot could run 4.5 or 4.6GHz. If you can find any GPU at a reasonable price, it'd be worth upgrading. The current market is so hosed though "reasonable price" doesn't make any sense. No, I'm not overclocking, but I'll look into that - I've only restarted gaming on this machine since the pandemic, and didn't need to before, but that's good advice. Good to hear that a 10 year old processor is still up to the task, but you've confirmed my suspicion that while it's worth it to upgrade, there's no great way to do that without paying these prices. There's a GTX 1050 Ti 4GB at newegg for $279 perhaps that would be a decent compromise?
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Oct 4, 2021 17:50
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That's a low end card from 5 years ago being sold at twice it's launch MSRP. Honestly your best bet is either to find a prebuilt with a decent card, or just not get back into 3d pc gaming.
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Oct 4, 2021 17:59
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:That's a low end card from 5 years ago being sold at twice it's launch MSRP. lol, welp. Might be the latter then... Thx.
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Oct 4, 2021 18:32
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Speaking of, where are the prebuilts with the 5xxx APUs now that they are here? A prebuilt with a 5600G or even 5300G and fast memory should be a decent solution for now, and I'd expect them to be cheap as hell. Where are they?
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Oct 4, 2021 19:26
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they exist, it's just in a weird product space. the GPU is only marginally better than the previous gen if at all, and it's GPU that is ultimately in demand. the 5600G makes sense if your intent is to build and wait out the storm but that doesn't describe most prebuild purchases
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Oct 4, 2021 20:01
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Twerk from Home posted:Speaking of, where are the prebuilts with the 5xxx APUs now that they are here? A prebuilt with a 5600G or even 5300G and fast memory should be a decent solution for now, and I'd expect them to be cheap as hell. Where are they? https://www.hp.com/gb-en/shop/product.aspx?id=4F999EA&opt=ABU&sel=DTP
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Oct 4, 2021 22:35
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Pablo Bluth posted:HP will sell you one. with a GTX 1650 Before anyone buys! Lmao: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OZGmWZyhac
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Oct 4, 2021 22:37
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What are the rules on mixing RAM? I have I have a pair of these 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200MHz C16 sticks, which are PC4 25600 CL16 16-18-18-36 1.35V. I was recently given an older machine to salvage for parts which has a pair of XPG Adata DDR4 3000MHz which are PC4-24000 CL16-20-20 1.35V. Is it possible / safe to stick the Adatas in my empty slots, or am I going to cause trouble? I recall this being a Very Bad Idea in the past, but seem to recall it getting a little more lenient?
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Oct 5, 2021 03:31
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typically it's lowest common denominator - you get the performance of the worst stick but it should work fine. it can add instabilities but it probably won't.
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Oct 5, 2021 03:33
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So unless you have specific workloads that need 32GB of RAM you'd be better off sticking with 16GB running faster.
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Oct 5, 2021 07:55
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How absurd is 740€ for an RTX 360Ti? A store nearby has some stock and I've been looking for an update to my GTX 970 for a while.
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Oct 5, 2021 11:42
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Skiant posted:How absurd is 740€ for an RTX 360Ti? A store nearby has some stock and I've been looking for an update to my GTX 970 for a while. That's an awful price to my american eyes, but I don't know what the prices generally are in europe. It's higher than most scalped cards are going for on US ebay. If I'm paying that much, I'd want at least a 3070 Ti.
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Oct 5, 2021 11:55
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Here's the part where I come in and make a fool of myself. I'm building the Mini-ITX PC I posted earlier about in this thread (with minor modifications - CL 16 3600 RAM per Butterfly Valley, also my father in law insisted that he get a 2TB drive, which, lol ok it took you 9 years to fill up 250GB but it's your money). I was shooting the poo poo with my cousin and it came up that I'd be building the PC (something I've done a bunch of times before, including my own gaming rig last year) and at some point I mentioned that last time it was a pain in the rear end getting the cooler into the case (I have a Noctua NH-D15). He asked why I hadn't fitted the cooler to the motherboard and then put the motherboard into the case - I told him this is always how I'd built PCs: motherboard in case, CPU/cooler in motherboard, then memory, GPU/etc. He called me a stupid loving noob and said that the correct way to do it was to put everything in the motherboard first, bench-test to make sure the components all work, and then commit it all to the case. I've never had anything go wrong or whatever as I've been doing it but yeah, what he said makes sense. I'm now wondering if there's other poo poo I'm doing wrong, so is there a quick trustworthy guide (preferably not a video - lol at that Verge one) y'all would recommend to building a PC just so I can sorta "check-off" the stuff I'm used to doing in the correct order, see if there's any other obvious noobery I've been doing?
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Oct 5, 2021 13:28
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tbf you're half right, typically people combine the cpu, ram and cooler with the mobo before putting it in the case, but install the fans after it's in case.
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Oct 5, 2021 13:31
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CoolCab posted:sure, and it's first person here you go
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Oct 5, 2021 13:31
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CoolCab posted:tbf you're half right, typically people combine the cpu, ram and cooler with the mobo before putting it in the case, but install the fans after it's in case. Well, yeah, and that specifically was what I was complaining about with the Noctua and my motherboard as the fan header is right underneath the gargantuan heat sink with nice sharp aluminum fins to snag my fingers on!
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Oct 5, 2021 13:33
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CoolCab posted:tbf you're half right, typically people combine the cpu, ram and cooler with the mobo before putting it in the case, but install the fans after it's in case. Why would you install the fans after? I seriously can't think of a single benefit here.
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Oct 5, 2021 13:33
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Why would you install the fans after? I seriously can't think of a single benefit here. Cable management maybe, if you were going to integrate the cables into the case routing for some reason?
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Oct 5, 2021 13:35
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Why would you install the fans after? I seriously can't think of a single benefit here. i had to, cause otherwise fans impede access. fans had to be like, the last thing that went in on mine and even then it was tight.
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Oct 5, 2021 13:35
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CoolCab posted:i had to, cause otherwise fans impede access. fans had to be like, the last thing that went in on mine and even then it was tight. I don't think that is common. mITX is its own breed of special, and it frequently requires special build orders, but for most other PC builds I would recommend installing fans first (case fans and cooler fans).
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Oct 5, 2021 13:39
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sarcastx posted:Here's the part where I come in and make a fool of myself. One of the Youtubers did a step by step assembly of a NR200 with a big air cooler. I watched it before I built mine last month and it was extremely helpful. Edit - he sticks the air cooler in right at the end, sans fans.
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Oct 5, 2021 13:55
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I have put together 3 ITX builds in the same case now for both myself and friends, and keep making the same mistake: Be sure to install the CPU power connector before you slot the MOBO into the case. It's a pain in the rear end to try to wiggle the pins into the socket afterward, ime
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Oct 5, 2021 13:58
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I don't think there's an absolutely sacrosanct build order and a lot of it depends on your individual case, components and whether you're going to test poo poo or not beforehand. That said, installing the RAM, NVMe and CPU in the motherboard before it's in the case seems a no brainer. Whether you install the CPU cooler before or after the motherboard is in the case depends mostly on how beefy the cooler is. I can definitely understand not installing the NH-D15 until everything else is plugged in because it would make accessing a lot of the motherboard fiddly and difficult (and maybe impossible to screw down?). In my nr200 it would have been nigh impossible to connect everything else if I'd installed my Fuma 2 first. In OPs example they said they had trouble installing the cooler in the case but dropping in a motherboard with a huge cooler attached and maneuvering it into the right spot doesn't seem a whole lot easier.
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Oct 5, 2021 13:58
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Why would you install the fans after? I seriously can't think of a single benefit here. Flipping this around, what are the benefits of doing them first? As has been said, cable managing them was easier once I knew where the rest of the cables in the system were going to be.
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Oct 5, 2021 14:03
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Butterfly Valley posted:Flipping this around, what are the benefits of doing them first? In my last few builds the motherboard sits at lest partially in the way of the top exhaust fans for example. I've always done fans->mobo/cpu/cooler/ram->GPU->drives->PSU/cable management.
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Oct 5, 2021 14:04
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Goes back to what was said about individual cases then, in my last build the fans were on removable panels which kind of necessitated them being nearly the last components in as I needed the panels removed for access.
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Oct 5, 2021 14:10
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There is no one way. It’s mostly up to case/components/preference. It is certainly easier in a lot of cases to put that stuff on the board first, but it’s certainly not necessary.
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Oct 5, 2021 14:26
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Cross-posting from the Windows 11 thread: Odd situation here. A few months ago I gave my dad an old GPU of mine, a Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Boost. Even on my previous machine I was able to have Secure Boot enabled (Ivy Bridge era). I built him a new machine a few months ago, a Ryzen 5600x on an MSI B550-A Pro. I wasn't able to enable Secure Boot because it says the GPU doesn't support GOP. He uses 3 monitors but we had only one plugged in when trying to sort this out. I'm confused as to why we're having this problem. Should we try a different output port on the GPU?
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Oct 5, 2021 14:27
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I got a b550 asus rog strix wifi gaming mobo that has 3 chassis fan slots, currently using 1 slot for a fan and another fan in the psu, so 2 chassis slots available. Is it safe to use 2 splitter cables in the remaining slots to connect 2 fan each, bringing the total fans to 6? A friend told me he had a mobo that got fried by using splitter cables, but he also said he connected 7 fans.
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Oct 5, 2021 16:22
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Yes. Generally fan headers are rated for 1A and standard 12cm fans take ~0.14A.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:00
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Butterfly Valley posted:Yes. Generally fan headers are rated for 1A and standard 12cm fans take ~0.14A. The key item isn't normal operating load, but rather the inrush current. There are some fan models that easily blew past 0.5A on inrush.
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Oct 6, 2021 05:10
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