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iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗
Are you using a paper pattern?

If so, use some masking tape you can see through and wax the tape. Holy poo poo does that make it go quicker

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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Yes, I'll try that next time thanks. My main mistake was getting all excited and cutting the pattern out first, meant I had to constantly check the pattern hadn't shifted on the leather while punching.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
How do you skive straps evenly along their length? I'm making leather suspenders out of some relatively soft 8-10 oz latigo, but the flesh side is a bit fluffy for skin contact, and it's a bit thick for my rivets. I've been using a Tandy super skiver


I'll be damned if I can do it evenly to save my life. Short of buying a $300 tool from weaver, what are my options?

HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Oct 9, 2021

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
This might be an obvious suggestion, but did you replace the blade before starting? Gotta make sure it's fresh!
But if it's soft and squishy, some stretching might occur no matter what you do.
Maybe you have a maker space nearby that has a big motorized bell skiver? Those might be better for squishy stuff in my experience due to the rotating blade.

Also, after a cursory Google, it looks like you can find some cheaper table-mounted splitters than the weaver one. They may not be high quality but it's an option. Would definitely cause some stretching though.

cloudy fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Oct 9, 2021

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

cloudy posted:

This might be an obvious suggestion, but did you replace the blade before starting? Gotta make sure it's fresh!
But if it's soft and squishy, some stretching might occur no matter what you do.
Maybe you have a maker space nearby that has a big motorized bell skiver? Those might be better for squishy stuff in my experience due to the rotating blade.

Also, after a cursory Google, it looks like you can find some cheaper table-mounted splitters than the weaver one. They may not be high quality but it's an option. Would definitely cause some stretching though.

Thanks. I'll shout around and see if I can find anyone with a splitter. I need to rein in my spending on hobbies.

Stretching idk what to think about it. It's pretty much inevitable with something like suspenders isn't it?

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
True! Didn't know if it was a worry for hardware sizing or anything, but you're probably right!

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Some haphazard thoughts because I just woke up from a nap and I don't know what drat day it is:

Stretching might be reduced if the straps are lined (with a different leather or material altogether), kinda how some regular belts are. But that would require stitching a looong distance, and I wouldn't want to do that by hand.

If the flesh side of the leather is too fuzzy, I heartily recommend this approach to get it way, way smoother:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDIBTDKtyFY

If your rivets are too short, you might want to try using Chicago screws (with a dab of thread lock) since those are available in longer sizes.

But all of that basically requires starting anew or buying stuff. Skiving a long strap by hand is something I just haven't done, I'm afraid -- at that point it's basically splitting.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Aren't belts stitched mainly to prevent stretching? So the same should apply to suspenders right?

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗
Belts and suspenders are the one time I don't judge people for machine stitching. I mean it's the same overall as, say, a bag but it feels so much worse.

Edit: I'm about halfway through a new bag, and also stitched up another couple keychains last night. First one I somehow hosed up and it looks like the world's goofiest lucha mask, and the second (so 3rd I've made total) I magically figured out what I'd been doing wrong on all of them but then it was too late to finish.

My shoulders are protesting. I've punched probably 1k stitching holes in the past 3 days and regret everything.

iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Oct 10, 2021

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Trabant posted:

Some haphazard thoughts because I just woke up from a nap and I don't know what drat day it is:

Stretching might be reduced if the straps are lined (with a different leather or material altogether), kinda how some regular belts are. But that would require stitching a looong distance, and I wouldn't want to do that by hand.

If the flesh side of the leather is too fuzzy, I heartily recommend this approach to get it way, way smoother:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDIBTDKtyFY

If your rivets are too short, you might want to try using Chicago screws (with a dab of thread lock) since those are available in longer sizes.

But all of that basically requires starting anew or buying stuff. Skiving a long strap by hand is something I just haven't done, I'm afraid -- at that point it's basically splitting.

Yeah the options I can think of, I'm not enthralled about. Lining it with a stiff veg-tan is certainly the smart way to do it, one I'll consider if I'm feeling less lazy.

I've tried burnishing with gum trag to deal with a fuzzy flesh side in the past. Would it work well with something that's expected to be in contact with skin? With bracelets, I've found that, over time, sweat has a tendency to dry and crispify the fuzz and make it abrasive and uncomfortable.

I've got chicago screws, but just a handful of the spike & pyramid style. They do have nice long posts, though I can't say I'm thrilled about the cost of such an approach.

As far as stretching goes, stitching/lining is incredibly painful but might end up being the ticket. It does handle both the stretching and the skin contact issue. It's a lot more work than I wanted to put into this but it may end up being the best option in the end.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

HolHorsejob posted:

I've tried burnishing with gum trag to deal with a fuzzy flesh side in the past. Would it work well with something that's expected to be in contact with skin? With bracelets, I've found that, over time, sweat has a tendency to dry and crispify the fuzz and make it abrasive and uncomfortable.

Hm, that's a good point. The flesh side in my projects was only for interiors of pouches and such. I haven't tried it with gum trag, but for what it's worth the tokonole-burnished surface ends up downright glassy. Still, I don't know how it would hold up to getting moisture on it. One would hope the moisture + friction would actually keep burnishing the piece, but that's purely a guess/hope for dumb luck.

iwentdoodie posted:

I've punched probably 1k stitching holes in the past 3 days and regret everything.

Goondolences and/or lmao.

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗

Trabant posted:

Hm, that's a good point. The flesh side in my projects was only for interiors of pouches and such. I haven't tried it with gum trag, but for what it's worth the tokonole-burnished surface ends up downright glassy. Still, I don't know how it would hold up to getting moisture on it. One would hope the moisture + friction would actually keep burnishing the piece, but that's purely a guess/hope for dumb luck.

Goondolences and/or lmao.

Tokonole and atom wax combo is somewhat moisture resistant, as is resolene I think. But no idea how they'd hold up to sweat.

And yeah, it sucked. Almost done punching all of it. Naturally it's all done one by one with a 1mm punch.

theflyingexecutive
Apr 22, 2007

Bumping to say how much I enjoy (envy) all of your projects and am looking forward to doing some more of my own as the weather cools off.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Just ordered a couple of small panels from RMLS -- about to start on some Christmas presents. It'll be my first leatherwork in... 14 months? :negative:

poo poo, I sure hope I still remember how to stitch.

Caedus
Sep 11, 2007

It's good to have a sense of scale.



I recently picked up leatherworking because I needed a hobby that wasn't video games, and while I get the general gist of it, I'm having trouble with some particulars.

I wanted to do some simple pet collars to start so I just tried making a cat collar and the issues I was having was mostly with burnishing the back and edges - my strip of leather was about 5/8" by 13" and I found it too.. noodlely? to burnish the flesh side and edges. I just couldn't hold it taught enough to generate enough friction to burnish. I tried an edge slicker and one of those round mandrill ones and just couldn't seem to do it effectively. I also only used water as I do want to make one for my kitty and I'm not sure about the pet safety of the other products you can use.

Otherwise I quite enjoyed it. My first one was terrible of course so I feel like the rest will come with skill, but it feels like I'm doing something wrong with the burnishing. The guys in the youtube videos just seem to do it, and it works right away. I would tell you more about what the leather is b/c it came out of a bag of scraps I got for free so I have no idea other than it doesn't look like the veg-tan from the video a couple posts down. Should I be burnishing the area on hide that I want to use before I cut the strips?

tk
Dec 10, 2003

Nap Ghost

Caedus posted:

I recently picked up leatherworking because I needed a hobby that wasn't video games, and while I get the general gist of it, I'm having trouble with some particulars.

I wanted to do some simple pet collars to start so I just tried making a cat collar and the issues I was having was mostly with burnishing the back and edges - my strip of leather was about 5/8" by 13" and I found it too.. noodlely? to burnish the flesh side and edges. I just couldn't hold it taught enough to generate enough friction to burnish. I tried an edge slicker and one of those round mandrill ones and just couldn't seem to do it effectively. I also only used water as I do want to make one for my kitty and I'm not sure about the pet safety of the other products you can use.

Otherwise I quite enjoyed it. My first one was terrible of course so I feel like the rest will come with skill, but it feels like I'm doing something wrong with the burnishing. The guys in the youtube videos just seem to do it, and it works right away. I would tell you more about what the leather is b/c it came out of a bag of scraps I got for free so I have no idea other than it doesn't look like the veg-tan from the video a couple posts down. Should I be burnishing the area on hide that I want to use before I cut the strips?
If it’s chrome tanned it won’t burnish well. Tokonole might work reasonably. Or edge painting.

But if you don’t want to use stuff then you should probably find some veg tan.

tinned owl
Oct 5, 2021
I'm making a wrist phone sleeve, think crappy pipboy. Flesh or grain side to skin and how would you finish it? It'll be multiple layers (veg tan) so I can make it end up either.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Aw yiss, new stuff is here, gonna start on it as early as tonight:



tinned owl posted:

I'm making a wrist phone sleeve, think crappy pipboy. Flesh or grain side to skin and how would you finish it? It'll be multiple layers (veg tan) so I can make it end up either.

Don't know if there's a strict rule, but most traditional watch bands would have a grain side to skin, so I don't think you can really go wrong with that. Not really sure what would be a good finish though.

On the other hand, many NATO or single-pass straps are made with flesh side to skin (example, and what I'll be doing as part of this project) so that's definitely a thing too. I plan on using a Tokonole + vigorous burnish to smooth it out. I posted about the technique which works for me here:

Trabant posted:

If the flesh side of the leather is too fuzzy, I heartily recommend this approach to get it way, way smoother:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDIBTDKtyFY

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
I was going to post my upcoming projects all at once, but life's being a bitch at the moment so I'll just post them as I finish them.

We're doing a Secret Santa thing in the watches thread, so I'm making a few things for my Santee. I don't think he's itt, but even if he is he doesn't know I'm his Santa so... Here's one of the things he's getting: a simple watch strap, modeled here using a watch I got from my own Secret Santa:





Conceria Walpier Buttero, flesh side finished using the approach I linked in my previous post, edges beveled and burnished with Tokonole, stainless steel buckle.

I discovered I don't really like working with black leather, or at least not when my cutting mat is also black :v:

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Alright, more watch-related nonsense, a different type of strap and this time not exactly successful. You might call it a learning experience, but definitely not something I'll be gifting:



The good news is that I think I have a decent edge painting technique, and applying a lining for the first time (pigskin) was reasonably successful. My stitching is also fairly consistent and the thread casting makes it look good in the back as well.

The bad? Let me count the ways:

1) Made the strap too thick at the lugs (where it connects to the watch itself), so it's extremely difficult to install and rubs against the watch, scratching up the leather
2) Cut the strap to the right width, but then applied 4 coats of edge paint + a burnish, making it too wide to fit through the buckle
3) Made the whole thing too short for the recipient's wrist
4) Punched at an angle, making the front of the band OK but the stitch line on the back back drifts towards the edges
5) ... I don't know, probably something else

Enough moaning! This didn't work out, and I'm inclined to try again but some other time. In the meantime, I'll supplement the NATO-style strap from my previous post with something else I'll try.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
How do you go about sharpening/honing a french skiver?



I got one recently from Tandy (stainless blade unfortunately) and it cuts... so-so. The geometry of the cutting edge looks like you would need a purpose-built tool to sharpen it. The bottom face is a polished radius so you can line the bevel at an angle of your choice to choose the depth of cut.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

HolHorsejob posted:

How do you go about sharpening/honing a french skiver?



I got one recently from Tandy (stainless blade unfortunately) and it cuts... so-so. The geometry of the cutting edge looks like you would need a purpose-built tool to sharpen it. The bottom face is a polished radius so you can line the bevel at an angle of your choice to choose the depth of cut.

You should return it IMO because you'll never get a good sharpen on it.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
You might be able to use something like this:



to improve it. There are a number of shapes built into the base, and one of those might work. I use this to keep lino carving tools sharp.

Or you can put together a DIY solution: shape a piece of wood (or really dense foam) to fit the profile and put some superfine sandpaper over it.

None of these are truly sharpening solutions, though. It's more like polishing or stropping.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Trabant posted:

You might be able to use something like this:



to improve it. There are a number of shapes built into the base, and one of those might work. I use this to keep lino carving tools sharp.

Or you can put together a DIY solution: shape a piece of wood (or really dense foam) to fit the profile and put some superfine sandpaper over it.

None of these are truly sharpening solutions, though. It's more like polishing or stropping.

Ugh I figured it'd be something like this. I'll see what I can make happen after work today, thanks.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Explorations in toolmaking. Found a scrap of what I'm guessing is 316 stainless rod at work and took a little time to shape it into an edge honing guide on the bench grinder. I took it within a few thou of the slot's dimension, next up I'm going to grind the sides square & to dimension, then lap it flat. Strap some lapping sandpaper onto it and get a nice razor edge on this cheap skiver.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
That's a slick solution, and way better than my "shape some wood" suggestion!


Not as slick, but seems to be working -- babby's first wet moulding (a pen case):



It came together reasonably easily, which makes me think I probably screwed it up and won't find out until I disassemble it all :negative:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Trabant posted:

That's a slick solution, and way better than my "shape some wood" suggestion!


Not as slick, but seems to be working -- babby's first wet moulding (a pen case):



It came together reasonably easily, which makes me think I probably screwed it up and won't find out until I disassemble it all :negative:

This photo made me giggle a bit, that's a lot of clamping force for wet leather! It's definitely not going anywhere.

The biggest mistake most people make (I think?) when it comes to wet forming a case for something is making some part of it at the opening smaller than a part further down, which doesn't work because the big diameter section of whatever has to pass through the top to get to the bottom in the first place. I've made this mistake a few times because I'm still a beginner.

That black will be great as a pen case, please keep posting the work!

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

VelociBacon posted:

It's definitely not going anywhere.

Literally what I said to myself after clamping it all together :v:

Progress made! Unclamped the thing and it's holding shape. I needed a place for the pen clip so I had to very awkwardly cut the space for an insert and punch holes. I cut it with a combination of a lovely arc punch and knife. The finishing of the edge of the cutout isn't great, but it's the best I could do. I then lightly marked the positions of stitching holes with a chisel and pierced through with an awl (with a wine cork underneath). Glued in a contrasting piece and now waiting for it to dry before I take the awl to it again:



I'm really doing this, slightly oversized. Of course, the guy happened to omit how he did this, the worst part, so I had to make things up.

For those interested, he created the form with just a stack of foam (harvested from foamcore boards, I think) and it works remarkably well -- it's easy to shape and resilient enough to stand up to my, uh, overzealous clamping.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Alright, I just want to add that this "stitching bent leather" thing is complete bullshit and shouldn't be part of any project. As small as it was, I'm glad to see the end of it:



This was the reason I stabbed myself with a needle and drew blood for the first time. Not even gonna clean it off my stitching pony, it needs to bear witness:

PirateDentist
Mar 28, 2006

Sailing The Seven Seas Searching For Scurvy

Finally busted out the leather tools to make my dad a gift. He got a new job that has him handing out a lot of business cards, and recently complained he can't find a good case that holds more than like five. A ha!

So after two failed attempts, one for a technique that was far too advanced for my skill level. And another where the pattern somehow got all hosed up, so it was wonky as hell. Third time's the charm. A one piece, no stitch design. Lightly wet molded to help it form around the stack of cards. Modified it slightly to make the pocket about 4mm deeper. Then I grooved and stitched for decoration.







30 cards sitting inside in the photo. Undyed so it can get a nice natural patina, and so it won't rub any dye off on the cards. I'm very happy with how it (finally) turned out.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
A trifecta of thoughtful, practical, and handmade. You make me sick.

jk, of course -- you should be proud, it came out great!

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Declaring this one done. It's a bit rough in spots and a learning experience (e.g. forgot to install the keeper while stitching the main body together, had to do it after :shepicide:), but it's passable:





Wet-formed upper, pigskin-lined backing, a different kind of veg tan for the clip insert, painted edges.

One more project over the next couple of days, and that will probably be it as far as leatherwork this year. Every time I break out the tools I'm reminded I live in a place too small for these shenanigans :negative:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Trabant posted:

Declaring this one done. It's a bit rough in spots and a learning experience (e.g. forgot to install the keeper while stitching the main body together, had to do it after :shepicide:), but it's passable:





Wet-formed upper, pigskin-lined backing, a different kind of veg tan for the clip insert, painted edges.

One more project over the next couple of days, and that will probably be it as far as leatherwork this year. Every time I break out the tools I'm reminded I live in a place too small for these shenanigans :negative:

Looks fantastic! Love the contrast.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Thank you :) I'm also a fan of the contrast, the combo seemed to work well.

Ideally, I would've used the same leather for both the lining and the pen clip inset, but I didn't have the right weights of leather to pull it off without making it waaaay bulkier than it should be.

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗
Mostly finished krampus mask. Somehow forgot to get another buckle, and all I have are 1.5" belt buckles, so unfinished it sits for a bit. Not like I'm going to wear it, but still annoying.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

iwentdoodie posted:

Not like I'm going to wear it

And why the hell not? It's amazing! Go scare some children around the neighbourhood.

WIP:

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗

Trabant posted:

And why the hell not? It's amazing! Go scare some children around the neighbourhood.

WIP:



I live in FL, that gets me shot lol

And very nice. I've still yet to make anything with a gusset

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
You know.... living in TX myself, I absolutely should have thought of that :negative:

This is my first time doing gussets! They're a pain to align, even without the added pressure of glue working time, but the pouch is taking shape:



By the way, for anyone stitching by hand -- get yourself one of these at the retailer of your choice:



I know it looks like a sex toy (and could probably function as one?) but it's a lifesaver when it comes to saddle stitching. Makes it so much easier to grip and push/pull needles. I'd pay way more than the $15 it costs, it's so freaking good.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Aaaand finished! Both my Secret Santa gifts and my leatherwork for the near future -- my tiny office area looked like a tornado hit a Tandy Leather store. Here are some horribly blown out photos the watch pouch:





(you're supposed to put the watch around the blue insert like this)



Yes, it's silly, but it's a Watch Thing. Hoping my Santee likes it.

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HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Does anyone have a good resource for learning to sew garment leather? I have a jacket I'd like to make some alterations to (add extended cuffs because I am long). I don't have much experience sewing, and I'd be sewing by hand.

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