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Ah, I see. It might be worth checking out the A2000 that comes out later this month, a 70-watt SFF card that's just a cut down 3060: https://www.theverge.com/2021/8/10/22618030/nvidia-rtx-a2000-gpu-workstation-specs-features-price It's actually in stock to preorder close to MSRP too
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Oct 8, 2021 16:05
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That loving Sned posted:Waiting for the next generation would mean getting better performance for the same cost, or potentially much lower if the supply problems are sorted out by then. I also don't know if Zen 4 will use the AM4 socket because that would mean a motherboard bought now would be useless for upgrades. Your first point is by no means a given and if anything I think the prices of the 4000 series will be raised across the board as Nvidia see what people have been willing to pay. £600 for a 3060ti isn't terrible. Zen 4 will use a new socket yeah.
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Oct 8, 2021 16:07
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change my name posted:Ah, I see. It might be worth checking out the A2000 that comes out later this month, a 70-watt SFF card that's just a cut down 3060: https://www.theverge.com/2021/8/10/22618030/nvidia-rtx-a2000-gpu-workstation-specs-features-price That looks great. I used to have a case that only supported SFF GPUs and the best I could get at the time was a GTX 1650. I wish I had this available at the time. Butterfly Valley posted:Your first point is by no means a given and if anything I think the prices of the 4000 series will be raised across the board as Nvidia see what people have been willing to pay. £600 for a 3060ti isn't terrible. Thanks for the confirmation about Zen 4. Unless Nvidia raises RRP by a ridiculous amount, I can't imagine the 4060 Ti being more expensive than the 3060 Ti is now.
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Oct 8, 2021 16:26
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I have a very bizarre issue - bought a new nvme ssd and did a fresh install of Windows on it. But the bios can't see it and won't boot to Windows, unless I have my old formatted completely wiped sata ssd plugged in. I don't even know why. Anyone heard of this kind of thing happening before? Its on an Asus z170 gaming pro, with a new WD blue nvme on it. I know it works, I play games from it and it passes ssd benchmarks with the right read/write being reported. The other ssd that's plugged in is literally a deleted blank slate with no data on it. But if that's unplugged, the system refuses to load up windows from the nvme. Zedsdeadbaby fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 17:46
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Zedsdeadbaby posted:I have a very bizarre issue - bought a new nvme ssd and did a fresh install of Windows on it. But the bios can't see it and won't boot to Windows, unless I have my old formatted completely wiped sata ssd plugged in. I don't even know why. Anyone heard of this kind of thing happening before? Oh, yeah I know what happened here. Basically Windows hosed you here. Because you had an ssd installed when you installed the os, it put the bootloader or some such nonsense on the ssd. It didn't even ask, it just did that for you. Isn't that helpful? I had it do that, except it put the loader on spinning rust that I was just testing for fitment. As far as I know, you can repair the install but it'll most likely still leave some residual issues. You might as well just reinstall the os to fix it, that's the only way to do so properly i'm aware of. You'll want to physically disconnect any other drives than the one you're installing the os to. Windows
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Oct 8, 2021 17:50
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Balls. I'll give that a try when I get back tonight. That's definitely very plausible. This time I will unplug the old ssd again and do another reformat and reinstall from USB with just the nvme present.
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Oct 8, 2021 18:13
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Yeah and also if you want to dual boot Windows and Linux you always have to install Windows first because if you try to install Windows next to the Linux install then Windows will helpfully nuke the Linux booter.
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Oct 8, 2021 19:27
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Shear Modulus posted:Windows will helpfully nuke the Linux booter.  helpfully is right. Same on stripping out all other SSDs/HDDs except for your single drive you want the OS mounted on. Last year I forgot my 2TB backup USB was plugged in when I upgraded my laptop to Pro. It was nice enough to format the backup drive as it loaded the upgrade. I still don’t know why, and it’s never done that before or since to a USB or external drive. I was extremely lucky I had backed up important stuff to Google drive the previous day. Win10 is almost magical.
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Oct 8, 2021 23:13
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Broken Machine posted:Oh, yeah I know what happened here. Basically Windows hosed you here. Because you had an ssd installed when you installed the os, it put the bootloader or some such nonsense on the ssd. It didn't even ask, it just did that for you. Isn't that helpful? I had it do that, except it put the loader on spinning rust that I was just testing for fitment. I'm pleased to tell you this did exactly the trick  thank you very much!Such a strange thing of Windows to do in the first place, would have thought it would put the loader where the OS is, or give you the choice
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Oct 8, 2021 23:20
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So I have finished my first ever build! Everything seems to be running good. Is there anything I need to check or keep an eye on? I know I should be watching temps. What program is goon recommended for temps?
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Oct 9, 2021 04:10
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nice! afterburner is my weapon of choice, that's a GPU focused tool but it can so CPU temp and stuff. have you: - turned on XMP or DOCP in your bios to get your listed ram speed - if you've bought a high refresh rate monitor, told windows to actually use it (it won't by default) - made sure you are plugged into the GPU and not still running off the iGPU? v. common pitfalls for first time builders
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Oct 9, 2021 04:18
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UmOk posted:So I have finished my first ever build! Everything seems to be running good. Is there anything I need to check or keep an eye on? I know I should be watching temps. What program is goon recommended for temps? HWiNFO is a favorite of mine edit: and this is also an opportunity for me to shill for FanControl for your fan-controlling needs
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Oct 9, 2021 04:35
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UmOk posted:So I have finished my first ever build! Everything seems to be running good. Is there anything I need to check or keep an eye on? I know I should be watching temps. What program is goon recommended for temps? Seconding HWinfo. You can double click on any measurement and it'll give you a pop out graph that charts the values over time so you can be running a game and alt tab back to it to see what's going on. I just use the BIOS to control and set fan curves but there's more specialised programs available like have been linked to you. If you have an nvidia card the nvidia experience can be a useful overlay in games with fps and additional info available in the corner. MSI afterburner is best for granular control of your GPU and undervolting. I think you had a Ryzen 5600x, in which case you should also look at undervolting that too, which counterintuitively actually increases the all core performance of the CPU. Ryzen Master is a good way to measure that.
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Oct 9, 2021 08:30
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Windows 11 health check says my CPU sucks and doesn't meet requirements. I'm also noticing lots of software lag like if I have a game open or multiple tabs. How can I improve my PC by replacing certain parts, or should I just get a new PC from scratch? Specs: CPU: Intel Core i5 7500 Quad Core LGA 1151 3.4 GHz RAM: Kingston 16GB(2 x8GB)HX424C15FW2K2/16 Hyper X DDR4 2400Mhz HDD: Samsung 960 EVO 500 M.2 SSD Graphics: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Super Phoenix 6G OC Mobo: Asus ROG Strix B250I Gaming LGA 1151 Mini-ITX Power: Something crappy, I think around 800W and my whole computer shocks me when I touch the case + my keyboard shocks me too when connected by wire lol I mostly play games, and work with lots of browser tabs open.
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Oct 9, 2021 11:16
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Maybe focus on getting that system grounded first  The only upgrade you can do CPU-wise is to a 7700K unless you replace the board too. Unfortunately the 7700K isn't officially supported by W11 either, but there are simple workarounds for it. Both 7500 and 7700 should actually handle W11 just fine, MS is just being overzealous with hardware requirements, that's all. The rest of the specs really aren't that bad. Getting on a bit sure, but they aren't slow. They are perfect for 1080p gaming and you really should'nt be seeing any sluggish performance at all, even with a 7500. Perhaps there is some software bloat or belts & braces really slowing your system down.
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Oct 9, 2021 11:21
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uh, well from a component standpoint the CPU and GPU aren't anything amazing but should be more than OK. a ton of tabs could be running out of ram or it could just be that a quad core like that kind of isn't as good at multitasking as a chip with more cores. i have a 3300x which is a ryzen 4 core/8 thread similar to yours and i have to close firefox when i want as much performance as possible, for instance. i'm much, much more concerned about it shocking you. power supplies are just utterly insane in what is allowed to be sold and the terrible cheap ones are absolutely a significant fire hazard and, uh, very possibly electrocution hazard?
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Oct 9, 2021 11:26
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Lascivious Sloth posted:Windows 11 health check says my CPU sucks and doesn't meet requirements. I'm also noticing lots of software lag like if I have a game open or multiple tabs. I would consider doing a clean reinstall of Windows 10 to see if it helps with some of the general system lag you're noticing before replacing any parts. If you do want to upgrade, you're gonna have to upgrade both the cpu and motherboard at minimum, and your RAM is slower than what is common now so upgrading that too could help. With that in mind, I would wait to see what Intel has cooking for their upcoming 12000 series of CPUs coming out next month. It's looking to be a decent upgrade over what's currently available, and you'll be on the ground floor of a new socket type, meaning there's a decent chance you'll be able to upgrade to future CPU generations down the line without having to replace a bunch of parts. And please sort out that electricity issue. It could damage your components, or worse, start a fire.
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Oct 9, 2021 11:29
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Zedsdeadbaby posted:Maybe focus on getting that system grounded first Ah thats interesting to note. I don't mind replacing the board if I can get a significant performance increase. Basically I run firefox and if I open too many tabs the loading into pages becomes a slow load just to change tabs, everything starts to slow down really bad. I basically have to restart the computer to get my performance back even after closing Firefox. I get pretty bad lag on games too, and I can't tell if it's lack of RAM, CPU, or what. I run two screens off that graphics card too, one through HMDI and the other through a normal connection-HDMI converter because there is only one HMDI input. Would running two screens be impacting anything? I usually play games on my main screen with a movie or youtube running on my second. For example right now I have 60+% of my RAM being used, but I only have Firefox and Steam open, no games and only around 10 tabs on firefox. CoolCab posted:uh, well from a component standpoint the CPU and GPU aren't anything amazing but should be more than OK. a ton of tabs could be running out of ram or it could just be that a quad core like that kind of isn't as good at multitasking as a chip with more cores. i have a 3300x which is a ryzen 4 core/8 thread similar to yours and i have to close firefox when i want as much performance as possible, for instance. Yeah I've tried to ground it. The POS PSU doesn't screw on to my case, so it's sitting loose on the case floor. It's probably a trash item, it's the only thing i bought in this third world country, the rest of the PC I brought in myself. Does PSU really impact much? (A part from the electrical hazard) I've had it for years now and it hasn't been an issue, just strong static/electrical shock when touching the case near it, and the shocks run through the USB ports I attach, like my keyboard. I do notice on th eTask Manager that it often says "Power Usage" High on Games for example when running them. Would a low Wattage be impacting anything in performance? Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I would consider doing a clean reinstall of Windows 10 to see if it helps with some of the general system lag you're noticing before replacing any parts. If you do want to upgrade, you're gonna have to upgrade both the cpu and motherboard at minimum, and your RAM is slower than what is common now so upgrading that too could help. With that in mind, I would wait to see what Intel has cooking for their upcoming 12000 series of CPUs coming out next month. It's looking to be a decent upgrade over what's currently available, and you'll be on the ground floor of a new socket type, meaning there's a decent chance you'll be able to upgrade to future CPU generations down the line without having to replace a bunch of parts. Thanks for the heads up on the new CPU coming out. Well noted on every response saying sort out the PSU  I'll try a windows reinstall but god thats a pain, having all my software downloaded and installed perfectly over the years etc. --- Quick question, probably dumb because I think I already know the answer: my games are on another HDD (non-SSD), so I'm guessing that slows performance a lot that the computer is accessing a third HDD to play the game?? My SSD is too small to host all the games I have. If this is a problem, whats a good larger size SSD now-days for quick gaming an software use? Lascivious Sloth fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Oct 9, 2021 |
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Oct 9, 2021 11:38
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800 W should be ridiculous overkill but super cheap PSUs tend to overpromise there. a PSU can easily fry components, your house or even yourself if it’s really incompetently put together. your power draw will be very low i tend to fall on the cheaper side of PSUs, mine is only an 80 plus white. but it’s from a reputable brand, reviewed very well by enthusiast press and has a five year warranty (an indicator that they trust their product). some itt would say I live dangerously for doing so. even I wouldn’t touch a no name Amazon special. there’s a reason they’re nicknamed “time bombs”.
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Oct 9, 2021 11:58
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nah not really, you’re good. so long as the OS is on a fast SSD drive and not the HDD ;which it seems like) you’re not hurting overall performance in most titles, just load times. if you keep your current mobo another SATA SSD, assuming you have a spare port, will work fine. I like the wd digital blue, there are a few. If you upgrade your mobo you could get an even faster drive but that’s new pc territory honestly.
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Oct 9, 2021 12:09
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i'm looking for a low-end prebuilt. since newegg seems to be the way to go nowadays, is there anything glaringly wrong with ipason?
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Oct 9, 2021 15:16
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Being on a hard disk means the games will load slower, but that's it. If a game is loading things constantly it could result in overall slow performance, but that's not a common scenario. +Nthing replacing that PSU. It's a shock hazard, a fire hazard, and a risk to the rest of the computer.
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Oct 9, 2021 16:12
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Thanks for the suggestions. I do have one other issue that may be relevant to the thread. The past few nights I've been leaving the PC on to download stuff(on DSL) but at some point the PC freezes, screen still up but not able to do anything. Have to hard reset. It looks to be around 1 to 2 hours after I stop using. I have tried changing the power options to performance but that didn't work. I think it must be some setting that kicks in after going idle for too long but I just can't nail it down. Any ideas?
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Oct 9, 2021 16:33
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Hey thread, looking to replace my nearly 4-year old, mid-range gaming laptop (Nitro 5) with a desktop. GPUs seem as hard to find as ever and while I'm perfectly comfortable building my own rig, getting the parts seems like it may actually be more expensive than a prebuilt right now. I'm lucky enough to live near a Microcenter and they have what looks like a decent set up for $1199 and I'm wondering if this is worth biting the bullet on: https://www.microcenter.com/product/635448/powerspec-g509-gaming-pc Quick specs are: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7GHz Processor NVIDIA RTX 3060 12GB GDDR6 16GB DDR4-2666 RAM 500GB SSD My gaming goals are not high, I mostly play strategy games. However I do want to be able to run Total Warhammer 3 at decent speeds when it comes out and a friend wants to try out Baldur's Gate 3, neither of which my laptop can or will be able to handle. I've got a budget of about $1500, so if I did get this rig, other than maybe another SSD, anything else to upgrade? Also need a monitor but coming from a laptop, anything over 20" will feel good so I think I can save money there.
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Oct 9, 2021 17:30
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ADudeWhoAbides posted:Hey thread, looking to replace my nearly 4-year old, mid-range gaming laptop (Nitro 5) with a desktop. GPUs seem as hard to find as ever and while I'm perfectly comfortable building my own rig, getting the parts seems like it may actually be more expensive than a prebuilt right now. I'm lucky enough to live near a Microcenter and they have what looks like a decent set up for $1199 and I'm wondering if this is worth biting the bullet on: You can max BG3 on a potato (I tested it at max settings on a GTX 970 at 1440p and it hit 60+ FPS) but that seems like a great deal? Just switch to a faster 3200 MHz RAM kit for like $70
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Oct 9, 2021 17:51
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Lascivious Sloth posted:Yeah I've tried to ground it. The POS PSU doesn't screw on to my case, so it's sitting loose on the case floor. It's probably a trash item, it's the only thing i bought in this third world country, the rest of the PC I brought in myself. Does PSU really impact much? (A part from the electrical hazard) I've had it for years now and it hasn't been an issue, just strong static/electrical shock when touching the case near it, and the shocks run through the USB ports I attach, like my keyboard. I do notice on th eTask Manager that it often says "Power Usage" High on Games for example when running them. Would a low Wattage be impacting anything in performance? No. Do not let this just sit. You’re taking an unacceptable risk here. The risk is a fire that could burn down your house. Or actually kill/seriously injure you. This is not a risk you take. That machine should be off and unplugged unless you are actively, and very carefully, trying to solve the issue. How does the PSU not screw into the case? That shouldn’t be a thing. The PSU should also be grounding into the outlet. It could also easily not be the PSU, and something else could be grounding out incorrectly by touching the case. You should be seriously concerned that the issue is bad enough that it’s traveling out into your keyboard, and that you’re able to describe it as a “strong electrical shock”. This is not something you gently caress around with.
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Oct 9, 2021 19:22
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:No. Do not let this just sit. Okay, thanks, well recieved. I'll sort it out tomorrow and get a new PSU, and make sure it's grounded. Thank you
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Oct 9, 2021 20:02
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gimme the GOD drat candy posted:i'm looking for a low-end prebuilt. since newegg seems to be the way to go nowadays, is there anything glaringly wrong with ipason? need to be a bit more specific on the model, bud. ipason makes everything from low end iGPU machines with no graphics cards all the way up to relatively high end 5600X + 3060 boxes. i can say i've not heard amazing things about newegg, they were caught in the exploding gigabyte power supply debacle a few months back. but that wasn't strictly their fault.
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Oct 9, 2021 22:35
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Lascivious Sloth posted:Okay, thanks, well recieved. I'll sort it out tomorrow and get a new PSU, and make sure it's grounded. Thank you Absolutely, sure you've lost some dollars now replacing the PSU, but that's better than losing your house or even your life. You're making the right decision replacing the PSU as a priority. Faulty electronics are no joke
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Oct 9, 2021 22:42
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Lascivious Sloth posted:Okay, thanks, well recieved. I'll sort it out tomorrow and get a new PSU, and make sure it's grounded. Thank you You should probably take a pic of the case and PSU and post it here. Not being able to screw it in sounds like either the case or PSU is some weird form factor.
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Oct 9, 2021 23:04
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well i think they said they bought it in a different region than the other components, there might be a different standard at play? anyway yeah sorry that we're all kind of so alerted on this one, it's just - one of the innovations that enables home and enthusiast PC repair is that they put more or less all the parts* that can kill you in a sealed metal box that you don't touch. i think it's capacitors which are the primary danger but there are a few - because the PSU keeps all that dangerous poo poo away from the user you can happily upgrade your ram or GPU or whatever without needing to worry about your parts or a fire. if the sealed metal box is not doing the job of keeping the lightning in we all go  unfortunately and again imo kind of insanely there is an entire industry of power supplies that are just dangerous. pc enthusiasts and the associated press tend to over recommend on their PSUs just to be absolutely sure you don't get one of those super super cheap ones which are a total roll of the dice; almost everyone has a story of one blowing and taking out a bunch of parts. *technically you can do it anywhere there's power flowing so like as in a recent example a terrible riser cable can spark, but that's the strong exception rather than the rule.
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Oct 9, 2021 23:15
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Yeah, and also good power supplies aren't exactly expensive either. A good EVGA one with a decade+ warranty is what, like $120?
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Oct 9, 2021 23:37
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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ADudeWhoAbides posted:Hey thread, looking to replace my nearly 4-year old, mid-range gaming laptop (Nitro 5) with a desktop. GPUs seem as hard to find as ever and while I'm perfectly comfortable building my own rig, getting the parts seems like it may actually be more expensive than a prebuilt right now. I'm lucky enough to live near a Microcenter and they have what looks like a decent set up for $1199 and I'm wondering if this is worth biting the bullet on: That seems like a pretty decent prebuilt for the price. They're cheaping out on the memory, but it's hard to say how much performance you're really losing as a result since the 3060 is likely to be the main bottleneck anyway. The CPU they're using is considered to be the best midrange CPU on the market currently. The 3060 is a perfectly fine video card--it can handle basically everything out right now at 1080p, no problem. At 1440p it will struggle a little in more demanding games. Still it should do fine at Total Warhammer 3. The price is pretty good for a prebuilt, all things considered. Other 3060 prebuilts commonly go on newegg for $100 more and have a worse CPU. I would recommend replacing the CPU cooler there. Toss something like the Scythe Fuma 2 in there and it will likely improve noise levels a fair bit (and CPU performance too). I am a little concerned about the overall airflow in that case, particularly due to the mATX design combined with the solid bottom panel--that could choke your GPU for air. But the 3060 isn't very demanding when it comes to cooling needs, so it might be fine anyway. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 01:08
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:No. Do not let this just sit. I'd suppose the other question, would be if the outlets in poster's dwelling might possibly be the issue as well. Perhaps a longer shot, to be sure. How possible would it be for dirty power current (or possibly an ungrounded wall socket) to be a potential shock hazard in this particular case? Absolutely not an electrician by any measure of the imagination - I might be completely off about this particular theory.
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Oct 10, 2021 09:32
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The PSU is definitely the place I'd start to diagnose things based on what OP said but yeah I'd also check for any loose wires, sparkling outlets, that I wasn't standing in a big puddle of water etc
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Oct 10, 2021 10:10
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Saukkis posted:You should probably take a pic of the case and PSU and post it here. Not being able to screw it in sounds like either the case or PSU is some weird form factor. Oh god, I took off the side case and it's so dusty. Anyway I can't identify it from these pics, but yeah you can see how it isn't connected properly, sitting on the base of the case, and the holes in the back of the case don't match the available holes in the PSU (I tried many times screwing it in, jerry-rigging it etc.)   It looks like it could be this one: https://www.gamemaxpc.com/productkkk/246-en.html maybe it's not so bad afterall? Lascivious Sloth fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 12:17
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Okay, I think I found the upgrade you should buy first: https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airro...930&s=pc&sr=1-1
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Oct 10, 2021 12:22
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haha I knew that was going to be the first response. yes, I haven't cleaned back there in years. SMHDr. Video Games 0031 posted:I mean that genuinely by the way. This isn't just an aesthetics of cleanliness concern. Dust buildup can make your components run hotter and can negatively affect their performance. A thorough cleaning may actually help your computer be less laggy if it's running too hot currently. oh, I see. Okay. Lascivious Sloth fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 12:25
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I mean that genuinely by the way. This isn't just an aesthetics of cleanliness concern. Dust buildup can make your components run hotter and can negatively affect their performance. A thorough cleaning may actually help your computer be less laggy if it's running too hot currently.
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Oct 10, 2021 12:29
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yeah but tbf you don't need to buy a machine a can of compressed air will do fine. is it still shocking you? it is a higher quality PSU than i anticipated (i was thinking some total fly by night) but i've never heard of them.
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Oct 10, 2021 12:31
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