|
Nerobro posted:CHEP.... That reminds me, I use this guy's slicer settings as my baseline Doctor Zero posted:Oh that reminds me. Calibrate your extruder. Is calibrating the extruder the same thing as setting e-step?
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 20:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 22:19 |
|
|
Ah Ender 3 v 2 issues, huh? I have a minor one of my own if anyone can give me some advice. I ran three rolls of inland pla+ through it no problem, then swapped to sunlu pla+ and ran the calibration cube with the same temperature settings which came out great. Next print delaminated like 50 layers in, and I noticed it wasn’t feeding correctly. Hot pulled it, snipped off the end which looked like the picture, reinserted and tried at 3 degrees hotter, to the same outcome. Pulled, cut and printed 3 degrees colder than the original, same outcome.  Clearly it's the bulge at the bottom that's giving me the issue. Is this where the previously discussed ender 3 hotend fix comes in? If so, kind of bummed as it was running so smoothly before. Is this the best method for doing the fix these days? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 20:51
|
|
|
Ghostnuke posted:Is calibrating the extruder the same thing as setting e-step? Yes, sort of. You want to calibrate your e-steps for your extruder first, to make sure you’re actually extruding 100mm of filament when you tall your printer to do so. Then print an XYZ calibration cube to take measurements from to then calibrate your X, Y and Z e-steps.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 20:51
|
|
|
parabolic posted:Bowden tube bulging. Yep, the hotend fix will help with this, so long as you’re using a piece of Capricorn PTFE tubing to do the fix with and not the crappy white stock tubing. The Capricorn tubing can withstand hotter temps for longer before deforming. It’ll also help prevent the Bowden slipping away from your nozzle causing the ‘hot end gap’ that the above mentioned fix helps prevent. Do be sure to replace the piece of Bowden every now and then though. I’ve had filament wear through that piece of tubing fixed in the hotend after a couple months of 24/7 printing. I suspect it’s mainly from the extruder gear adding notches/serrations to one side of the filament as it feeds it through the hotend, causing wear over multiple KGs of filament.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 20:57
|
|
|
Hamburlgar posted:Yes, sort of. Ah! Yup, done all that then... I had the cube down within like within a hundredth according to my harbor freight caliper.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 20:57
|
|
|
Ghostnuke posted:That reminds me, I use this guy's slicer settings as my baseline Are you still using Prusa Slicer (I remember you asked for configs a while back)? If so, I get great results with Prusa Slicer's base Ender 3 v2 profile, with a few of my own tweaks tossed in to support the modifications I've made (JyersUI firmware, BL-Touch with Unified Bed Leveling, etc). If you haven't tried the base PS profile for the E3v2 yet, you might give that a shot. Talorat posted:So I’ve gotten a bit spooked by all the documentation saying to never leave your printer running unattended. Has anyone tried using those automatic fire suppression balls as a layer of protection near their printer? My printer is currently sitting in my very flammable and very wooden guest room. I suspect you're fine; a Prusa i3 MK3S+ is very different from an Anet A8. I have a smoke detector in the room and a fire extinguisher nearby just in case, but I leave my Prusa running all the time.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 23:16
|
|
|
My i3 mega s took ~30 minutes to assemble and level and it printed these owls np, first try
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 23:22
|
|
|
Yup, using PrusaSlicer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2021 23:23
|
|
|
Mr Newsman posted:Excellent! That seems pretty straightforward. Was wondering if I'd end up having to make a mold for everything first or not. For that effect, you might as well just print transparent PETG. You can make room for LED strip much more easily.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 01:33
|
|
|
So I've just got authorization to return my second Elegoo Saturn now. After 20 or so prints the machine started emitting a beep after each layer and all my prints warped but still completed. I'm surprised Amazon still lets me buy printers to be honest since I've returned probably 15 at this point. There seems to be some serious quality control issues in resin printers right now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 02:54
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:For that effect, you might as well just print transparent PETG. You can make room for LED strip much more easily. This was pretty much the original plan but the ELW is pretty interesting too.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 12:31
|
|
|
where do you all like to buy nitrile gloves for resin work in our post covid hellworld? and are the two layer, more expensive ones worth anything where resin is concerned?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 14:38
|
|
|
Deviant posted:where do you all like to buy nitrile gloves for resin work in our post covid hellworld? Amazon. The price is settling down now but still not where it was. I get Gloveworks brand and I’ve been happy with them. I get 5mil or higher. They almost never rip unless I do something dumb like catch it on an exacto.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 14:43
|
|
|
Deviant posted:where do you all like to buy nitrile gloves for resin work in our post covid hellworld? Grainger for me
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 14:44
|
|
|
I get them at Harbor Freight. I'm assuming nitrile gloves are nitrile gloves and that as long as they don't leak any brand is fine. If I'm wrong please let me know.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 16:19
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:I get them at Harbor Freight. Kinda. What matters is the thickness and the quality. With cheap thin gloves you will throw out 30% of them because they rip putting them on.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 18:38
|
|
|
Nitrile gloves are not chemical safe.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
please define "chemical"
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 19:34
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:please define "chemical" Dihydrogen monoxide.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 20:02
|
|
|
I love 3d printing so much. I just put this gem photography system together for someone and needed to add a glass plate, iris and gem holder to an old industrial microscope base. This would have been a huge pain by pretty much any other method. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 20:10
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Kinda. What matters is the thickness and the quality. With cheap thin gloves you will throw out 30% of them because they rip putting them on. Well the harbor Freight nitrile gloves are thick and I've never had one break when putting it on so I guess good to go,
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 20:30
|
|
|
my printer has been cranking continuously since last night and the only thing it's come close to loving up was this dude which, to be honest, is better than perfect. I think the ribs are a nice touch. I'm sure I could dial in the printer a little better if I wanted to make art, but my goals are much more mundane and I've been churning out stuff like lst clips and playing with clips to attach things to my tent poles   On thingiverse PETG is usually recommended for these things, but they hang on really tight w/ PLA+. Will they just loosen up over time? Or maybe not with 100% infill?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 20:42
|
|
|
poverty goat posted:On thingiverse PETG is usually recommended for these things, but they hang on really tight w/ PLA+. Will they just loosen up over time? Or maybe not with 100% infill? PLA is quite strong..until it has to flex.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 20:44
|
|
|
Scarodactyl posted:I love 3d printing so much. This is awesome!
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 20:56
|
|
|
poverty goat posted:
PLA will soften and die in direct sunlight, is the main issue there. PET can handle it fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 22:37
|
|
|
poverty goat posted:my printer has been cranking continuously since last night and the only thing it's come close to loving up was this dude PETG is a bit more ductile so it's often recommended for things that might flex a little bit. It can be a little harder to print until you get your settings down right (it prefers a slightly higher nozzle for the first layer, prints hotter and sticks to itself so it can pull itself off the bed sometimes). If you can make the PLA parts work I'd just use that, but if not, PETG is a fairly easy to print alternative with different mechanical properties. There's also ABS, ASA, TPU, Nylon, Polycarbonite, etc, but they tend to be expensive and harder to print the more specialized you get. If your part works in PLA or PETG I'd just use them.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2021 22:44
|
|
|
PLA will also creep over time under load pretty significantly so it might not stay tight if you're using it for clips
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 00:21
|
|
|
I've only ever used a 0.4mm nozzle. Would it be worth investing in a 0.3mm, 0.25mm, or even a 0.2mm nozzle?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 02:13
|
|
|
Smaller nozzles are for when you need to get very fine detail on the upper surfaces of your parts. Like teeny tiny engraved text. If you aren't having problems with that stuff specifically, no, there is no real reason to get a smaller nozzle. All you'll be doing is increasing your print time (because you can't print at thicker layer heights and your narrower traces will take more passes to build up the same amount of material). Larger nozzles are usually a good thing to have in your kit, though, because printing thicker layers obviously lets you get low-resolution parts cranked out quickly, and thicker layers make stronger parts. It's kind of wacky how tough and strong a part printed with 0.6 mm layers is.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 03:11
|
|
|
Smaller nozzles are also good for fine mechanical details like gear teeth etc. They're definitely good for more than just top layer decor. I use a 0.6 for everything and have a 0.6mm tungsten carbide on order to probably install and leave in place forever.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 04:20
|
|
|
I use 0.6mm whenever possible and I truly believe it should be the default pack-in nozzle size, especially for printers with large build areas. Going smaller than 0.4 seems like asking for jams and other problems, to me. If I needed a one-off part with a lot of intricate detail I'd probably order it from someone with a resin printer and if I needed a bunch I'd probably just take the plunge into resin myself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 05:33
|
|
|
Hmm, thanks for the input. I think I'll look into grabbing a 0.6mm nozzle myself in addition to the smaller ones for tinkerin'. Going larger with the nozzle didn't even occur to me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 06:48
|
|
|
poll plane variant posted:I use a 0.6 for everything and have a 0.6mm tungsten carbide on order to probably install and leave in place forever. Where on earth did you find that thing, and what other cool poo poo did you buy and where did you order it from; also how can I subscribe to your newsletter
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 12:43
|
|
|
poverty goat posted:my printer has been cranking continuously since last night and the only thing it's come close to loving up was this dude Awesome for getting things to print. First, the long leg pig? That needed supports. Also, there's a layer shift there, and it appears you've got something going on with your extrusion. You should stop, and tune up that printer, you'll have a much better time in the future, if you get things right ~now~. Print us a benchy, will you?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 14:23
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Awesome for getting things to print. Nah, let him have fun with the printer  Don't take the magic away just yet.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 15:49
|
|
|
The layer shift is probably related to all of the long unsupported bridges at that same z.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 15:53
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Where on earth did you find that thing, and what other cool poo poo did you buy and where did you order it from; also how can I subscribe to your newsletter Theoretically it would be a very hard material with similar thermals to brass, and recently a few companies have started making them. Dyze has one but it's similar to a ruby nozzle in that it's an insert but it's inserted in steel and so loses the thermals and is pointless. The two vendors the Prusa discord recommended were https://spool3d.ca/tungsten-carbide-reprap-m6-nozzle/ in Canada and https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/products/tungsten-carbide-3d-printer-nozzle in the US, though the US company has been out of stock for months, and shipping from Canada is expensive. They also said to get a copper heat block, because these things tend to eat the aluminum threads alive. I'm waiting on shipment from Canada right now. I'm probably not going to print anything really exotic, CF PETG, gimmick PLA, and CF nylon at worst, but it's ostensibly just a nozzle you never really have to worry about again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
insta posted:Nah, let him have fun with the printer I can see that things aren't quite perfect, but the printer itself is not what I bought the printer to tinker with, and it's doing just fine right now for that. I need to get some fans mounted to some poles, and settle on some SCROG supports and get those printed and mounted so I can put the tent together and plant some weed in it and then I might have time for lesser concerns like printing the perfect little boat today I learned to make things that clip onto my poles in fusion 360 
poverty goat fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Oct 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 20:12
|
|
|
The ambient temps in your grow tent while the lights are on will be enough to soften anything made of PLA, unless you’re running AC as well. I’d reprint those clips and anything else in PETG before a light or whatever drops and breaks a branch or worse.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 23:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 22:19 |
|
|
I'm having the nozzle ooze at the beginning of every print. This causes poor prints when the hanging bit cools down and gets dragged along the bed. Is there any way in Cura to print both a skirt/little priming strip and a brim for when I want a brim? I'm playing with temps at the moment to fix this but figured I'd make a post to see what y'all think in the meantime and I also just like reading y'all's posts in the thread. edit: just occurred to me that I could just include some small little object in my prints to be printed first to get rid of it, I guess which is not ideal. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Oct 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2021 23:40
|
|