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It now has two wheels. Kind of broke the rear screw hole for the right shock last night. Being a little tipsy and stubborn is not a good combo, but at least it's on 😬
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Oct 9, 2021 16:07
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Well, goodbye Revell kit. I learned a bit about chipping on you...    Also, adding the mud ruined the whole thing and I'm done now. gently caress that kit.
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Oct 9, 2021 18:12
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Small leftover from my previous project. I originally intended to recreate the full photo, but two of the figures turned out absolutely terrible, so I never put it all together. The guy cleaning the gun turned out quite well though, so I figured he should get a photo session all to himself.      
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Oct 9, 2021 22:30
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that looks fantastic. really great finish on that model.
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Oct 9, 2021 23:46
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Jonny Nox posted:Well, goodbye Revell kit.
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Oct 10, 2021 00:23
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cap that extra thin before it evaps away I’ve wasted so many bottles that way
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Oct 10, 2021 00:26
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id love to see that BTR (?) model in front of a white background honestly. i'm having trouble getting a good idea of it. It doesnt look bad I dont think?
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Oct 10, 2021 00:48
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Raskolnikov38 posted:cap that extra thin before it evaps away This sucks, but I'm so glad it's not just me.
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Oct 10, 2021 01:45
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Raskolnikov38 posted:cap that extra thin before it evaps away yep, as soon as I checked the pics on my computer I ran over and did that. Arquinsiel posted:Post the reference you were trying to live upto, because that looks real good to me dude.   Couldn't find anything in the pattern used in the instructions. If I was doing it again, I would keep the mud wetter, and more involved in the wheels and tracks. Outside of that use dust effect and dryer looking mud only on the body. punishedkissinger posted:id love to see that BTR (?) model in front of a white background honestly. i'm having trouble getting a good idea of it. It doesnt look bad I dont think? I'll try to get a decent photo tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback everyone!
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Oct 10, 2021 04:23
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Jonny Nox posted:yep, as soon as I checked the pics on my computer I ran over and did that.
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Oct 10, 2021 04:37
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Yeah I like it.
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Oct 10, 2021 04:44
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I honestly want to find a better model of the same subject and do a proper job on it. It's one of those vehicles where you can find lots of examples of them being run hard and put away wet. Syria, Ukraine, and Afganistan are all using/used them in their local conflicts so there's some real weathering and modding that can be done. Current project: Tamiya T-62A Much nicer. edit: Hey these Tamiya kits are pretty great! I should just build those. 
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 05:14
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Jonny Nox posted:I honestly want to find a better model of the same subject and do a proper job on it. Tamiya kits are pretty drat great. They don't always have the "best" detail but the fit is almost always excellent. I put together Tamiya's 1/35 Type 10 the other day to complete my JGSDF set and the thing just fell together. After wrestling with a 1/35 Trumpeter/Monochrome Type 73 light truck '96 where all the parts basically fitted together but not quite and no thanks to the dodgy instructions, it really was a joy to build. Painting-wise I'm actually still stuck on the Type 74. I pretty much finished the base color but ended up stripping it down because I got some extra detail parts and I wasn't quite happy with the color anyway. Tamiya's XF-73 "Dark Green" is ostensibly an official copy of the actual JGSDF Dark Green but it feels somewhat too bright and vibrant. I even checked some blogs and apparently it's an almost perfect scale effect match for the original paint color but the problem is the real paint fades quite fast so most active tanks are a very dull dark green on reference photos. One blog suggested mixing XF-73 and XF-13 1:1 for a realistic middle ground and Tamiya themselves used to suggest XF-65 "Field Grey" before they introduced XF-73 so I tried both on my test palette and wouldn't you know it, almost exactly the same color, so I just went with Field Grey for convenience and repeatability. XF-13 "JA Green" actually gives a very nice color for the fully faded paint, but it doesn't match at all with the brown so you'd have to find a new shade for that as well. Another project for another day perhaps. I am very close to finishing the painting stages on my FineMolds 1/35 Type 73 light truck though so hopefully I can get a few pictures of that up soon. Thing is cute as heck.
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Oct 10, 2021 10:02
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I'm usually an aircraft man but this year I've been dabbling in ship modelling and I'm definitely into it now - it's nice having all that detail work on show rather than being hidden away like when you close up the fuselage of an aircraft. My latest build is Tamiya/PitRoad's 1/700 USS Bogue CVE-9, painted with Sovereign Hobbies' Colourcoats enamels and Mr Color lacquers, and using the Tom's Modelworks photoetch set. I've sat it on a Coastal Kits 2D display base and it fits pretty nicely!         
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Oct 10, 2021 16:29
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Awesome stuff!
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Oct 10, 2021 17:09
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tidal wave emulator posted:I'm usually an aircraft man but this year I've been dabbling in ship modelling and I'm definitely into it now - it's nice having all that detail work on show rather than being hidden away like when you close up the fuselage of an aircraft. Very nice! I can't even imagine working in 1/700 anymore.
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Oct 10, 2021 18:15
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tidal wave emulator posted:I'm usually an aircraft man but this year I've been dabbling in ship modelling and I'm definitely into it now - it's nice having all that detail work on show rather than being hidden away like when you close up the fuselage of an aircraft. That looks great and having it staged like that adds another dimension. Roughly how long is a ship at that scale? From Scalemates it looks like a foot or so?
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Oct 11, 2021 12:34
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upsidedown posted:That looks great and having it staged like that adds another dimension. Probably about a foot, yeah. I have a 1:700 Yamato to build that has a hull 14" long
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Oct 11, 2021 12:46
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upsidedown posted:That looks great and having it staged like that adds another dimension. Just under 20cm - I've put a couple of objects next to it for scale.  Escort carriers were much smaller than their big cousins like the Lexington and Essex-class carriers as they were mostly hastily converted merchant ships with a carrier deck bunged onto the top. What I always do with ships to see their relative sizes is check out their dimensions on wikipedia then divide by 700 to get the scale size - it sounds obvious but it's really handy.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:14
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Cthulu Carl posted:Probably about a foot, yeah. I have a 1:700 Yamato to build that has a hull 14" long At 1:700 scale the Bogue (496' long in RL) should be ever so slightly more than 8.5" long. Edit: Post above wasn't showing up for me until I posted this.. strange.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:33
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painted the rest of the bits, sans fuel tank. saving that so I can get it extra perfect. have to unscrew the front forks though I failed to notice I had to put the instrument panel on before screwing it in. Thank god for screws.
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Oct 11, 2021 19:12
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tidal wave emulator posted:Just under 20cm - I've put a couple of objects next to it for scale. Thanks. I didn’t think of Wikipedia - was hoping Scalemates would show the size of the finished model. The level of detail in such a small size is amazing!
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Oct 11, 2021 23:00
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JuffoWup posted:Right, I was unsure if the type of plastic or the glossiness of it would affect it. And you can get some fine tipped pens due to the size of the models and thus the panel lines you are working. Anyway, was just asking/suggesting concerning the discussion earlier with panel lining an instrument cluster. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3wm9CH4Aaw&t=715s Speaking of which, using a pencil to highlight an instrument panel. timestamped to 11:55
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Oct 12, 2021 16:06
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A small update on the RC213V. A week after getting the shits at the kit decals I came back to it yesterday with a fresher mind. The decals still aren't great and the fluro orange bits aren't as smooth as I'd like but I'll live with it because I learnt a good lesson about zero paints in that I need to apply slightly thicker coats of paint to ensure that I end up with less thinners and more paint going onto the model with each coat. Pics are below: ' 
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Oct 13, 2021 10:10
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The Dragon 1/72 Sherman sure does need a lot of hand-fitting.
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Oct 13, 2021 15:09
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:A small update on the RC213V. A week after getting the shits at the kit decals I came back to it yesterday with a fresher mind. The decals still aren't great and the fluro orange bits aren't as smooth as I'd like but I'll live with it because I learnt a good lesson about zero paints in that I need to apply slightly thicker coats of paint to ensure that I end up with less thinners and more paint going onto the model with each coat. Pics are below: Can't wait to see it together! I did a little misc work today, hand painted a few tiny bits and man it really highlighted that I have almost no decent loving brushes. I have one W&N that I don't want to use for metallics and the rest are just garbo and split.
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Oct 13, 2021 15:45
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Can't wait to see it together! I did a little misc work today, hand painted a few tiny bits and man it really highlighted that I have almost no decent loving brushes. I have one W&N that I don't want to use for metallics and the rest are just garbo and split. Thanks man. The monkey bike is looking cool as well. I have a pair of series 7’s that are my workhorse brushes and have been since I was painting minis. I’ve painted a lot of metallics with them and not had issues with them putting metallic speaks in other paint colors but that might be having 2 jars for washing brushes. I did recently buy a pair of Tamiya flat brushes just for doing decals because I ended up with some junk under the decals on the last car I decaled up. They work pretty well but couldn’t overcome the decals on the bike.
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Oct 13, 2021 21:27
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For basic work on paint Winsor and Newton Cotman watercolour brushes have been my go-to. Mostly because Michaels sells them. Not very expensive either, but also I switch to my natural fibre brushes for faces and so forth.
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Oct 13, 2021 21:52
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Thanks man. The monkey bike is looking cool as well. I have a pair of series 7’s that are my workhorse brushes and have been since I was painting minis. I’ve painted a lot of metallics with them and not had issues with them putting metallic speaks in other paint colors but that might be having 2 jars for washing brushes. I just tend to ruin them even when trying not to and I'd rather not ruin another series 7, my size 1 doesn't keep a point any more. I'm sure it'd be fine really with separate water cups but drat do I have a clumsy heart and a heavy hand. Going to try and get the instrument panel & handlebars on tomorrow so I can start the wiring.
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Oct 14, 2021 00:12
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Brushes aren't supposed to last forever. Expect them to wear out and plan to replace them regularly. Even with good care the glue will eventually just give up and you are left with a stick.
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Oct 14, 2021 00:16
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my original series 7 brushes are still going strong 15 years after I picked them up. I managed to get another pair for cheap becuase my partner used to work in an art shop. The brushes that tend to die on me are the ones that are under 0 in size tbh.Sultan Tarquin posted:I just tend to ruin them even when trying not to and I'd rather not ruin another series 7, my size 1 doesn't keep a point any more. I'm sure it'd be fine really with separate water cups but drat do I have a clumsy heart and a heavy hand. Going to try and get the instrument panel & handlebars on tomorrow so I can start the wiring. While I have the main decals on the bike theres a fair few bits that I still need to carbon decal before I can look at clearcoating things. I might be able to do that over the weekend if it clears up.
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Oct 14, 2021 00:24
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I don't envy you on the carbon decals, I swear when watching other people do them they need to be put on with a crowbar.
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Oct 14, 2021 00:36
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I don't envy you on the carbon decals, I swear when watching other people do them they need to be put on with a crowbar. They're oddly easier than the decals that came in the kit tbh or at least the scale motorsports ones are. Nice and thin and they conform to surfaces easily
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Oct 14, 2021 00:38
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:my original series 7 brushes are still going strong 15 years after I picked them up. I managed to get another pair for cheap becuase my partner used to work in an art shop. The brushes that tend to die on me are the ones that are under 0 in size tbh.
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Oct 14, 2021 01:36
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Haven't heard from our resident boat builders in a while, any updates?
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Oct 14, 2021 04:19
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Grumio posted:Haven't heard from our resident boat builders in a while, any updates? Life happened? I am all set up to start my huge boat build, have jointed all the big chunks of wood so they are ready for milling to size, and have all the tools I need to get started, but work and other things have just kept me busy plus I have been in a gaming mood for a while. Not sure when I'll actually start on it, but it's in the workshop taunting me.
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Oct 14, 2021 07:13
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Not one of the boat guys, but I can relate. I go through phases where I dive into one of my other hobbies for a while. Lately I've been teaching myself to play the banjo and have found myself immersed in another run through of RDR2 (though I'm not sure which led to which). But, bottom line is that I always come back to modeling eventually.
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Oct 14, 2021 17:41
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 These loving wiring runs 
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Oct 14, 2021 18:21
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I found myself going over and over the instructions to get them right for the Yamaha. Then I found out I clipped a stub or two so couldn’t use some. Anyway, that’s looking nice. I like the frame’s color. Got a Tamiya Suzuki Katana to build when I’m ready for another bike. 934 is well under way now, but I really don’t like painting the rubber bits on the car’s body. Some of it went well with the paint marker, some didn’t. I’ve been able to scrape most of the splotches thankfully. Will do more and try smoothing things out with a mini brush. 
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Oct 14, 2021 19:07
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I do only car models and mainly I've painted the bodies with Tamiya Spray cans, which are lacquer paints. I've recently got into airbrushing and I've started experimenting with Tamiya lacquers paints that come in the jars. I've used Tamiya acrylic jars for a long time but not for the body but mostly other things like suspension and interior bits. My question is, do the acrylics work well through an airbrush for painting the body? Is there any noticeable difference between them and the lacquer paints? I don't have very good ventilation in my apartment so I'd prefer to use the acrylics if I can as the lacquers are getting me high as a kite. I know Tamiya acrylics aren't "true" acrylics since they are solvent based and not water based but they still seem to have way less fumes.
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Oct 14, 2021 21:21
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