Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Pretty excited about how this captain turned out.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges





Finished a second deathmaiden.



And the gang so far

Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Oct 13, 2021

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015
Those Eschers are really cool!

Just finished my Novamarines bike squad:



I haven't done much weathering on space marines before, pretty pleased with the results. The heat shimmer thing on the meltagun worked out pretty well, the multimelta not so much. But I'm pretty sure I know what went wrong. Do you think the banner needs some streaks of dirt or something? It looks a bit too clean now that I'm looking at the picture.

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

Decorus posted:

Those Eschers are really cool!

Just finished my Novamarines bike squad:



I haven't done much weathering on space marines before, pretty pleased with the results. The heat shimmer thing on the meltagun worked out pretty well, the multimelta not so much. But I'm pretty sure I know what went wrong. Do you think the banner needs some streaks of dirt or something? It looks a bit too clean now that I'm looking at the picture.

These look great! I like the weathering a lot, adds some really nice extra dimensionality to them.


Finished my Drukhari combat patrol box by painting up the Archon and Ravager! Wound up gluing the side gun pods on the Ravager in place as swiveling them around on the spindly arms made it fell like it was going to break. Don't really miss it though, as I doubt I would have spun them around much. Also, please ignore my cat-hair-covered apron I took these photos on.






Also had so many spare parts left over that I tried my hand at kitbashing an Archon. First time even attempting it and I think it's gonna turn out ok!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Chip McFuck posted:

Also, please ignore my cat-hair-covered apron I took these photos on.

Well now you gotta take a picture of the army with your catte, I don't make the rules

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Okay, bozo oil wash question, but I've seen a few videos on them and they've all given a different answer; How important is it to varnish the model before doing an oil wash? Some videos have said its vital, some have said it helps the wash go into recesses but is optional, and some have said it doesnt matter at all as long as your acrylics are properly dry.

Been going through a bit of a hobby slump and am easing my way back out of it by doing some Gaslands cars because they're about as low pressure as it gets (they're toy cars, so theres almost no sunk cost, and its supposed to be mad max-y, so neatness isnt a concern either). Taking the opportunity to go overboard with weathering/rust and figured I might as well try an oil wash and see how that works out for me. But kind of cant be bothered varnishing them if I dont have to, more for the varnish drying time than anything else.

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

Eej posted:

Well now you gotta take a picture of the army with your catte, I don't make the rules

Well... I don't want to be a rulebreaker....


Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

SiKboy posted:

Okay, bozo oil wash question, but I've seen a few videos on them and they've all given a different answer; How important is it to varnish the model before doing an oil wash? Some videos have said its vital, some have said it helps the wash go into recesses but is optional, and some have said it doesnt matter at all as long as your acrylics are properly dry.

Been going through a bit of a hobby slump and am easing my way back out of it by doing some Gaslands cars because they're about as low pressure as it gets (they're toy cars, so theres almost no sunk cost, and its supposed to be mad max-y, so neatness isnt a concern either). Taking the opportunity to go overboard with weathering/rust and figured I might as well try an oil wash and see how that works out for me. But kind of cant be bothered varnishing them if I dont have to, more for the varnish drying time than anything else.

The guy on the right here had all the panel lines done with a pointy brush and a very fluid oil wash on top of Primer + Sprayed Acrylic Ink with no varnish. I don't think it's necessary at all unless the recesses are very, very shallow (in which case you'll have to wipe off the excess anyway).

Eej posted:

Doing some colour scheme tests. Tried out a white space marine colour scheme and the blue base coat gave me more of a very light blue I think. Not sure which one I like more although I might have to brighten up the eyes on the white scheme.



Chip McFuck posted:

Well... I don't want to be a rulebreaker....




Yesss, some drat fine cattes in this picture. Bonus points for getting both of them to actually look at the camera at the same time.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



SiKboy posted:

Okay, bozo oil wash question, but I've seen a few videos on them and they've all given a different answer; How important is it to varnish the model before doing an oil wash? Some videos have said its vital, some have said it helps the wash go into recesses but is optional, and some have said it doesnt matter at all as long as your acrylics are properly dry.

Been going through a bit of a hobby slump and am easing my way back out of it by doing some Gaslands cars because they're about as low pressure as it gets (they're toy cars, so theres almost no sunk cost, and its supposed to be mad max-y, so neatness isnt a concern either). Taking the opportunity to go overboard with weathering/rust and figured I might as well try an oil wash and see how that works out for me. But kind of cant be bothered varnishing them if I dont have to, more for the varnish drying time than anything else.

Oil washes don’t need gloss varnish. Varnish in general can assist with certain effects using oils due to the inherent roughness of the varnish. For instance gloss is great if you want to preserve the tone of what you’re washing since oil paint will easily rub off a glossy surface, especially with mineral spirits. You can use this method to try to focus your wash in the recesses more than the surfaces. Matte varnish on the other hand has the opposite effect, where its roughness catches more oil paint and thus tints the surface of the model more.

Ultimately you don’t need varnish on oil models. I’ve used oil on dozens of models and have never seen any issue, and the two paints (as well as mineral spirits) don’t interact with each other.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Eej posted:

The guy on the right here had all the panel lines done with a pointy brush and a very fluid oil wash on top of Primer + Sprayed Acrylic Ink with no varnish. I don't think it's necessary at all unless the recesses are very, very shallow (in which case you'll have to wipe off the excess anyway).

Verisimilidude posted:

Oil washes don’t need gloss varnish. Varnish in general can assist with certain effects using oils due to the inherent roughness of the varnish. For instance gloss is great if you want to preserve the tone of what you’re washing since oil paint will easily rub off a glossy surface, especially with mineral spirits. You can use this method to try to focus your wash in the recesses more than the surfaces. Matte varnish on the other hand has the opposite effect, where its roughness catches more oil paint and thus tints the surface of the model more.

Ultimately you don’t need varnish on oil models. I’ve used oil on dozens of models and have never seen any issue, and the two paints (as well as mineral spirits) don’t interact with each other.

Cheers guys, appreciate it!

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Finished another (and I'm pretty sure my last) Deathwatch Primaris Lieutenant.

This time he's a Rainbow Warrior!





There's no sign of the morning coming
You've been left on your own
Like a rainbow in the dark!

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


thats an awesome paint job but what if that was a giant foam finger instead

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Wrr posted:

thats an awesome paint job but what if that was a giant foam finger instead

Holy poo poo :roflolmao:

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


AndyElusive posted:

Finished another (and I'm pretty sure my last) Deathwatch Primaris Lieutenant.

This time he's a Rainbow Warrior!





There's no sign of the morning coming
You've been left on your own
Like a rainbow in the dark!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP5V6ESqsZE

Doctor Goon
Nov 15, 2013




Jesus gently caress robes are hard. The front robes are my second attempt and I think I'm ready to move on, but the backside is giving me a hell of a time, probably because it's much flatter than the front? I've already started over twice, I'll see tomorrow if I can salvage this or if I'll have to try a third time :smith:

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
You can use some light glazing to make the blend look smoother. Go brighter on the highlight and then darker in the shadow. Then instead of getting all fancy you can take the mid tone and glaze from the middle to the highlight, and then from the middle to the shadow. Then repeat doing less and less. Or practice layering a little bit more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=am7cZw2jKIQ

Pinwiz11
Jan 26, 2009

I'm becom-, I'm becom-,
I'm becoming
Tana in, Tana in my mind.



I'm painting my first miniatures in over a decade this weekend: Some initial tests for my Necrons Kill Team. :woop:

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
Pretty much finished with this guy. I may add a few highlights here and there, but overall I think I'm satisfied with how he came out. I've never painted something like this before, and the eye was a real challenge. I tried really pushing a bunch of techniques as well, so if nothing else I learned a lot putting him together and then painting him up!

Any tips or improvements I could make in the future are always welcome.



Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

PotatoManJack posted:

Pretty much finished with this guy. I may add a few highlights here and there, but overall I think I'm satisfied with how he came out. I've never painted something like this before, and the eye was a real challenge. I tried really pushing a bunch of techniques as well, so if nothing else I learned a lot putting him together and then painting him up!

Any tips or improvements I could make in the future are always welcome.





Looks good! A small suggestion could be hitting the eye/eyes with some gloss varnish to give it that moist eyeball feel

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges







I picked up the Underhive box yesterday for a weekend project and finished painting the terrain in just over 2.5 hours. I spent about 30 minutes on the barricades and the walls in about 2 hours, using a similar process but different colors.

They were entirely painted with the airbrush and makeup sponges.

Barricades
1. Primed black
2. Airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air Black Brown
3. Airbrushed from above with Vallejo Metal Color Magnesium
4. Airbrushed from straight above with Vallejo Metal Color Pale Burnt Metal
5. Airbrushed the bottom with Vallejo Model Air Burnt Umber and in certain spots
6. Airbrushed certain spots with Vallejo Model Wash Light Rust
7. Airbrushed the entire thing with AK Interactive Winter Streaking Grime
8. Wiped the grime with downward motions using a makeup sponge and mineral spirits

Walls
1. Primed black
2. Airbrushed entirely with Daler Rowny Burnt Umber ink
3. Airbrushed from above with Vallejo Model Air Grey
4. Airbrushed from straight above (only top half) with Vallejo Model Air Pale Blue Grey
5. Airbrushed the bottom with Vallejo Model Air Burnt Umber
6. Airbrushed the entire thing with AK Interactive Winter Streaking Grime
7. Wiped the grime with downward motions using a makeup sponge and mineral spirits
8. Airbrushed the computer screen with Golden High Flow Fluorescent Green
9. Airbrushed the lights with Golden High Flow Fluorescent Yellow

Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 16, 2021

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Retributor Armor with a wash of Guilliman Flesh is such a satisfying and warm paint combo. Maybe my favorite?.



It's a good thing I like it because after Dante is done I have the Sanguinor and a ton of Sanguinary Guard

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009

Winklebottom posted:

Looks good! A small suggestion could be hitting the eye/eyes with some gloss varnish to give it that moist eyeball feel

That's a good idea - I'll give it a go!

Thanks

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

He did it. He finally did it.

He made a video about transferring Citidel paints into dropper bottles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4woDV2bTc6U

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
after a hiatus i came back and finished these 10mm men(and women!)-at-arms




PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009

Winklebottom posted:

Looks good! A small suggestion could be hitting the eye/eyes with some gloss varnish to give it that moist eyeball feel

Hey, this made a big difference, I also did it in his mouth to give it a wet look, and I think it came out well!




Also, my little ones (4 - red one & 7 pink/purple one) really wanted to paint minis having watched me do it for a while now. We went through basecoat, wash, drybrush, and details, and they did a pretty reasonable job all things considered with their very own blink dogs :)

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

PotatoManJack posted:

Hey, this made a big difference, I also did it in his mouth to give it a wet look, and I think it came out well!




Real nice, gives it an extra bit of verisimilitude

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Finished up my eBay rescue Swarmlord today.





It’s not massively apparent in the photos but I did take some folks advice onboard about drybrushing the Stirland Mud, and it’s definitely helped.

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.

Is there any good guides or breakdowns of what the hell each of the Vallejo Varnishes are?

Normal
Mecha
Auxillairy
Premium

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I suspect that they're all pretty much the same.
I have been told that Mecha is more resilient and intended for models with moving parts, but I have not way of verifying that, I used it for a long time because their Mecha Matt was really really matt, but after two bad bottles I've moved to AK interactive ultra-matt.

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


Lord Ludikrous posted:

Finished up my eBay rescue Swarmlord today.





It’s not massively apparent in the photos but I did take some folks advice onboard about drybrushing the Stirland Mud, and it’s definitely helped.

Looks great, and you can tell that the ground has texture, which is what you’re going for with the drybrushing, so I’d call that a success!

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Is there a general consensus on a UK equivalent to safe for resin paint strippers that are generally advocated online? Simple green has a UK distributor now and I’ve had zero issues leaving resin in it for a few days, however while it cuts through airbrush paint it seems a bit weak on rattlecan stuff.

I see purple power and totally awesome talked about a lot but as far as I know you can’t get it here. Every other locally available product I know of is dodgy as heck on resin, isopropyl alcohol, biostrip 20 etc turn resin to rubber. There must be degreasers with the same general formula that don’t react poorly.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Calling Dante done. This was a lot of fun to paint.

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

Mr Teatime posted:

Is there a general consensus on a UK equivalent to safe for resin paint strippers that are generally advocated online? Simple green has a UK distributor now and I’ve had zero issues leaving resin in it for a few days, however while it cuts through airbrush paint it seems a bit weak on rattlecan stuff.

I see purple power and totally awesome talked about a lot but as far as I know you can’t get it here. Every other locally available product I know of is dodgy as heck on resin, isopropyl alcohol, biostrip 20 etc turn resin to rubber. There must be degreasers with the same general formula that don’t react poorly.

Tesco own brand general cleaner has worked for me on resin, but it’s not something I would leave a chunk in for say overnight. You seem to be able to leave plastic in it semi permanently but testing with anvil industries resin it starts to lose definition a bit at about 12 hours or so. Ymmv though so test it with some sprue gates or something. Upside if it doesn’t work is that it’s literally a quid.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
https://twitter.com/gonders/status/1450464925944532998?s=21

Goddamn

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Iyanden Yellow makes it stupidly easy to paint yellow. Hell yeah.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I've been using it for my Orks' clothes and on larger surfaces -- like all Contrasts, I suppose -- it's not great but for helmets it is crisp as hell. Those look nice.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
i designed some bases for 10mm skirmish:


they were fun to paint



if you want ridiculous tiny bases, you can get them here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5014713

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

I just unsubscribed to Buzzfeed Eons of Battle.

I couldn't take it anymore. Thanks for those handy early tips though, dude with the most punchable face in the hobby!


Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges





Painted the objective markers from the Necromunda starter set.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Mr Teatime posted:

Stynylrez woes.
Looks like they know somethings up with it.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply