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biracial bear for uncut posted:
It's a weird and stupid design, but it doesn't seem to matter much in practice. You can find a ton of videos with people testing the hotend with and without the screws, and the bottom line seems to be that they might make a tiny difference in heat transfer, but only if you completely disable the fan. edit- "REMOVE THESE SCREWS!!" tends to be one of those clickbaity things you see in Ender 3 videos that just really doesn't do anything at all Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 18:02
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Paradoxish posted:It's a weird and stupid design, but it doesn't seem to matter much in practice. You can find a ton of videos with people testing the hotend with and without the screws, and the bottom line seems to be that they might make a tiny difference in heat transfer, but only if you completely disable the fan. I mean, I'd have said "Cut off the excess threads" (assuming they're what clamp the heater cartridge and/or the temp sensor in place) but then somebody would completely decapitate the hotend. I'm still not liking that there is such a thick bit of metal at the bottom of the heatsink. I'd bet that area is where the jam/clog problems start if there is anything at all in that area that the filament can stick to while it's softened up for extrusion.
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Oct 21, 2021 18:44
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The ender 3 is a cheap printer, but once its dialed in it prints pretty nice. You just have to be prepared to McGyver things when they go south, and forums are rife with the same post after post about basic issues around leveling. I've only been at it a couple weeks and Im already sick of tying up the same level steps for people that want push button quality and ease of use but say 'look how cheap i can 3d print now!'. But I can see the frustration you can have with the ender, trying to figure out what is a wear item and what is an inherent design flaw. At least i am only about $50 into various updates and fixes on top of the cost, but I'm totally comfortable with rewiring and rebuilding it over and over. In fact my next printer would either be a larger more expensive printer, or a hacked together larger ender made from old parts and stepper motors
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Oct 21, 2021 19:13
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You should tackle a Voron 2.4 build, honestly. It's what I'm going to do once I "have enough time and money" to do it. So 25-30 years from now when it'll be an antique build project.
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Oct 21, 2021 19:25
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Mr. Mercury posted:ender 3v2. It's just a loving mess of bad design and worse manufacturing 
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Oct 21, 2021 19:57
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You should tackle a Voron 2.4 build, honestly. I started reading about this and im hooked. I think i found my future project drat you
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Oct 21, 2021 20:02
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I received an Ender 3 V2 yesterday and after spending roughly 4 hours assembling it I decided to print a benchy to get an idea of how solidly I set it up. I've never touched a slicer or 3d printed anything before but for completely not knowing what I'm doing yet I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. Any suggestions or critiques?
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Oct 21, 2021 20:02
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Roundboy posted:I started reading about this and im hooked. I think i found my future project BLV MGN Cube is another good corexy project.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:09
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That looks pretty spot on. Main thing would be to calibrate your e-steps for your extruder and then print an XYZ calibration cube(s) to calibrate the x/y/z e-steps. Just be sure your calibrate the extruder first. Then, once your dimensional accuracy is in check, play around with enabling retraction in your slicer software. That can help with those strings/stringing.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:10
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Roundboy posted:I started reading about this and im hooked. I think i found my future project You want to really get psyched about doing it? Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E0dM0ZdpRE The auto-tramming at around 6 minutes or so in the video on the Z-axis is super loving cool to me. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 20:13
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Hamburlgar posted:That looks pretty spot on. Should I be printing a cube for my prusa mk3s? I was going to but their documentation said not to bother
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Oct 21, 2021 20:16
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The screws in that hotend don’t seem meaningfully different from the screws that connect the cage in a Mosquito to the heat block, so not exactly sure why anyone would think that it’s a design problem given how well regarded that design is.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:21
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You want to really get psyched about doing it? I actually watched that video before i posted and gasped when i saw that. This type of thing really hits my buttons but moreso i need to get my work bench built now that wood isn't $absurd. Totally not going to even try until i understand this current printer fully and troubleshoot all issues
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Oct 21, 2021 20:24
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I got my filament and I'm watching my toothbrush holder print via octoprint.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:26
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Roundboy posted:I actually watched that video before i posted and gasped when i saw that. This type of thing really hits my buttons but moreso i need to get my work bench built now that wood isn't $absurd. Check out his follow-up project video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O9E9rcH6Us
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Oct 21, 2021 20:26
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Jadius posted:I received an Ender 3 V2 yesterday and after spending roughly 4 hours assembling it I decided to print a benchy to get an idea of how solidly I set it up. I've never touched a slicer or 3d printed anything before but for completely not knowing what I'm doing yet I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. Any suggestions or critiques? You have some stringing but that's probably just the filament, looks like a great first print
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Oct 21, 2021 20:36
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Hamburlgar posted:That looks pretty spot on. I printed a calibration cube right after that and it came out like this. I probably shouldn't have used black for these, but it's what I have. I measured it using my digital calipers, which are the cheapest plastic calipers you can get from Aliexpress, but it measured out 19.9mm on all sides so I'm guessing it's pretty accurate? I'll play around with retraction and see if I can get less stringing but this cube didn't have any of it outside of one long string from the top of the cube to the nozzle after it finished.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:39
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Important about the whole voron circlejerk. The things that make a voron good, you can do on almost any other printer. For instance, the good bed leveling? Order some cast aluminum off of ebay, trim it to size, and viola, you get that lovely smooth bed that makes Voron's easy to deal with. You want a good print head? You can steal voron's. Or just take some time to sort out what makes a good print head. You want the fancy software? You can do that too. An ender 3 V2 with the voron treatment is both a rocket ship, and puts out good parts. And it's not expensive or hard. Roundboy posted:Totally not going to even try until i understand this current printer fully and troubleshoot all issues I have to keep repeating this, becuase it keeps happening. Searching the internet for answers. Following most of youtube for answers. Folliowing facebook for answers. Will lead you to doing circles like you have been. It's torture, it's assinine. And... I don't want to see you doing it. Leveling your bed should be "when you swap nozzles" or "when you accidently stepped on the bed" Not a thing you do on the regular. Bowden style printers work fine, and CAN print TPU just fine. Creality sells fine motion systems. But the "everything else" is built to a price. Don't make a cable chain. And... we're here to help.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:40
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Javid posted:have you had any success with that filament before? is the basement damp or dusty? Wibla posted:Both my Prusas print PLA at 210-215 with the default PLA profiles, so I don't know Cheaper PLA tends to melt and extrude at a lower temperature than the nicer stuff. Prusa's Prusament prints beautifully at 210-215 with no stringing, but generic Amazon stuff is usually better at 200 or so. You don't have to test temperatures for each spool, but it's a good idea to experiment a bit with each new brand you try.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:40
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Nerobro posted:An ender 3 V2 with the voron treatment is both a rocket ship, and puts out good parts. And it's not expensive or hard. No, it's not. It's better, sure, but you're still acceleration limited on the bed.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:43
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Gotta love when people push bed slingers faster than they're designed to go and then go all "Why am I getting random layer shifts when printing large objects or with settings where the printer is likely to make a long rapid position change on the Y-axis between layers?"
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Oct 21, 2021 20:54
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ImplicitAssembler posted:No, it's not. It's better, sure, but you're still acceleration limited on the bed. You are. But so is at least 2/3 of the printer market. With the stock board I can print at 150mm/s on my ender 3.... I recall seeing some samples from UberNero doing 250mm/s with just klipper and input shaping. It'll get you there. and it'll get you there without the 12-20 hour assembly process. (While we're at it, how do you spend 4 hours assembling an ender?) biracial bear for uncut posted:Gotta love when people push bed slingers faster than they're designed to go and then go all "Why am I getting random layer shifts when printing large objects or with settings where the printer is likely to make a long rapid position change on the Y-axis between layers?" I've only run into maybe two incidents where people were legitimately losing steps due to trying to drive the printer to fast. And the third I can think of was me intentionally trying to see when the printer would fail. Reasons for lost steps, in order of those I've run into: Bad slicer settings, usually printing to cold, and the print interfereing with the head. I lost count on how much this was the issue. Bad assembly - Belts to loose. (I've seen this dozens of times.) Bad assembly - belt inside out. (I've seen this.. maybe two dozen times.) Bad assembly - pulley loose on motor. (I've seen this ten-ish times) Bad motor. (I've seen this half a dozen times) Bad tuning - My motor is to hot! (I've seen this four or five times) Bad tuning - My motor current is to low. (Three or four times) Bad tuning - My acceleration is to high. (twice? maybe..) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 21:02
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My problems are my own doing. I built everything initially without knowing the end result, and it was worth taking it apart to make sure my key areas were square. Everything past that was trying to eek out the last bits of quality, specifically stringing and retraction settings. Constantly playing with settings, printing a test, etc caused common issues with tube separation and plastic goops i just had to clean out. I;m finally done with the bulleye shroud on stock fans because i just broke it again with the smallest of screw tightening. My bed only gets leveled when i make a major change and move everything around. Recently I realized I didnt install the z screw properly and it ended up binding 30 some off hours of printing later. But that was a quick pull and inserting it properly and making sure my gantry was again square. The things that frustrate people about this printer make me like it, and i went into it knowing i was going to tweak, upgrade, break all kinds of things. Im still printing just fine (when i get the cooling fan back on) but I will not replace anything until it breaks or I hit a wall and need an upgrade. I have .5kg of TPU i cant wait to try but i want to make sure my extruder spring is right and retraction settings are dialed in enough just so im not wasting material, and I have plans for larger prints but some minor issues caused failures i need to fix first. Honestly the biggest problem is that i need more printers to print all the things I want while im waiting on stuff to finish
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Oct 21, 2021 21:30
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Nerobro posted:You are. But so is at least 2/3 of the printer market. With the stock board I can print at 150mm/s on my ender 3.... And how much of the time is it actually running 150mm/s?
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Oct 21, 2021 21:53
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Hamburlgar posted:That looks pretty spot on. I'm going to gently recommend that you leave xyz steps alone. There's several sources of error when you measure a print and when you just put it back into steps/mm your attributing it all to one source. It's pretty easy to get into a position where it lets you print perfect 20mm cubes while being worse at larger and smaller sizes. Dramatically worse? Probably not. If you need perfect dimensions on something I recommend you adjust the model, either by scaling to that feature or by more direct adjustments.
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Oct 21, 2021 21:55
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Nerobro posted:(While we're at it, how do you spend 4 hours assembling an ender?) I messed up my lower back/hip pretty bad a week ago so I'm kinda slow doing anything right now. I also didn't even open the instructions and instead went off of a YouTube video that wasn't exactly clear at all times so I kept putting it together only to find that something was in backwards or upside down so I'd have to take huge portions of it apart just to put them back together the right way. I also generally have no idea what I'm doing. All of that together = 4 hours to do something that should have taken less than an hour.
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Oct 21, 2021 22:11
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w00tmonger posted:Should I be printing a cube for my prusa mk3s? I was going to but their documentation said not to bother It's a CNC machine, of course you should. With the way people furiously auto-fellate over their Prusas, you'd think there was no chance anything could be wrong... ...but it's still a CNC machine. If your first one is good, then congratulations, and you've confirmed you'll be able to print parts later that fit together without a second thought. One more thing you can be sure about when diagnosing a problem.
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Oct 21, 2021 22:17
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Anyone now looking for Voron 2.4's: 1) don't get a kit 2) build the Trident instead 3) if you're in the US, get parts kits from DigMach, PrintedSolid, KB-3D, and DeepFriedHero 4) dont get a kit
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Oct 21, 2021 22:26
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Jadius posted:I messed up my lower back/hip pretty bad a week ago so I'm kinda slow doing anything right now. I also didn't even open the instructions and instead went off of a YouTube video that wasn't exactly clear at all times so I kept putting it together only to find that something was in backwards or upside down so I'd have to take huge portions of it apart just to put them back together the right way. I'm sorry you're hurt. That sucks. And now you're an example of why so many people have trouble. *sighs* The information you needed should have been available, and easy to digest. Not slogging through videos. ImplicitAssembler posted:And how much of the time is it actually running 150mm/s? That question misses the point entirely. It doesn't matter. I get my prints off the bed in half the time (usually..) and the quality is just as good as at 50. And I'm sure I could do better, if I spent some time at it. Yaknow, tape a kilo of filament to the bed, and test to see how fast the X stepper can go. (I might do that...) snail posted:It's a CNC machine, of course you should. When you find out two months later that every single one of your parts is .75% small in one dimension, 1.1% small in another, and .5% small in another dimension. And now every part you printed, is now directional... .......................Not that I ever did that.... insta posted:Anyone now looking for Voron 2.4's: I think I agree with this. The trident is what voron was meant to be.
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Oct 21, 2021 22:26
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Nerobro posted:That question misses the point entirely. It doesn't matter. I get my prints off the bed in half the time (usually..) and the quality is just as good as at 50. Lol, of course it matters. If your print speed isn't hitting 150mm/s, you aren't printing at that speed. The whole point is that you're acceleration limited on the bed flingers to a much higher extent than the corexy, hence it's the corexy's (and 1 extremely souped up delta) that are setting the speed records, not ender3s. This is a bit like looking at the speedo of a car and claiming that's it's max speed  .
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Oct 21, 2021 22:35
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insta posted:Anyone now looking for Voron 2.4's: I feel called out right now, what with the 2.4 kit that just showed up at my house this week.  It's not from aliexpress though, non of that formbot or fysetc gambling involved 
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Oct 21, 2021 23:11
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Nerobro posted:When you find out two months later that every single one of your parts is .75% small in one dimension, 1.1% small in another, and .5% small in another dimension. And now every part you printed, is now directional... High five... mills, lasers, 3d printers, I've managed to get all of these out of calibration in some minor way or another, to then run off a bunch of parts because I assumed things were fine only to then have a bin full of useless parts. Doesn't matter the list price of some of this kit was the price of an extremely nice car, if I'd just spent that 20 minutes up front to measure, I'd have saved dozens of hours after. Nerobro posted:I think I agree with this. The trident is what voron was meant to be. As a general purpose printer, for sure. I love my 2.4, but if I were to do it again, hecks yes, a Trident.
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Oct 21, 2021 23:16
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So my toothbrush holder just finished printing and it turned out well enough to use, but it seems like the bottom layer of filament is shifting slightly after it's laid down so it's becoming slightly misaligned and I had to scrape off a little bit. Is this a leveling issue (all the other layers seem totally fine)? Or should I change the plate temperature or something? I'm printing a second one right now and it actually looks like it may not be having the issue this time so I don't' know if I just need to preheat it longer or something? mystes fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 23:17
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I have the following questions trying to keep up with all these topics: 1) Voron / Trident: Im so far away from building this, but kits aside, isn't it all just plans you buy parts for? Aluminum rails of length gotten from anywhere, and a kit would just be them packaged together for ease of purchase, etc? The Trident is just a bed moving design vs x/y/z all steppers ? I look at my current ender and was 1/2 hearted shopping for longer rails ,etc just to build it bigger. Aside from longer parts and changes in firmware, thats all it needs. Seems like the Voron is that idea all around 2) Speed. I currently run @50mm/s Obviously i would like it higher but I need to make sure all my other ducks are in a row. What is the recommended test to print or are you just upping speed until... issues ? 3) Bed leveling. I have a level bed and i know how to check and set it. I recently added a BLtouch and check the bed before printing to adjust the mesh, but lately i wonder if i really need to do this EVERY print, especially if i am printing back to back. I am thinking of changing my gcode to just load the existing mesh, and print away, and if need be, i can manually set a new check every so often. My bed is not falling out of level to justify a 4x4 grid every print, how is everyone managing that ?
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Oct 21, 2021 23:19
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Oh gently caress the entire base of the new print just shifted
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Oct 21, 2021 23:25
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so this longer thing, not looking good huh
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Oct 21, 2021 23:26
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Roundboy posted:I am thinking of changing my gcode to just load the existing mesh, and print away, and if need be, i can manually set a new check every so often. My bed is not falling out of level to justify a 4x4 grid every print, how is everyone managing that ? It takes, what 30-40 seconds to run a grid? I have it set so that it runs in front of every print. (after the bed is heated up and while the hotend heats up)
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Oct 21, 2021 23:26
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all you voron people are riding high at the moment, but prusa's corexy with toolchanging is on the way and oh boy if you think i'm smug now, just waitNerobro posted:
lmao
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Oct 21, 2021 23:27
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Sagebrush posted:lmao 
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Oct 21, 2021 23:29
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Oh I think i might just need to enable z-hop?
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Oct 21, 2021 23:35
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