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Hey goons, I'm stuck working from home and I need to connect a bunch of devices to the work VPN without affecting my home network. Something like this: I've never messed with more than my ISP's router, so what's the simplest solution? Can I connect two routers together, with only one getting VPN? Or use my PC as router? Or something else? Found an old Asus RT-N16 in storage, is it still worth using or should I get a brand new router?
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Oct 11, 2021 05:41
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You're going to need a point to point VPN appliance of some sort, which your work should provide you with if a setup like that is within their security policy to do.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:26
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Rexxed posted:It depends what you mean by support. If you have FIOS put your ONT (optical network terminal) into ethernet mode you can use pretty much any router. If you want your FIOS tv set top boxes to work you do need their modem/router combo somewhere on your LAN but it can be behind your router if it's only connecting to the internet and then sending the program information to the set top boxes. Usually that's done over the coax cables since they do MoCA. I was confused because the OP lists it as good for a small home network, but then there's a separate list for fiber connections, so I wasn't sure if it was like, incompatible
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Oct 11, 2021 18:02
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unknown posted:There's a bug in the gen1 cloud key that corrupts the nvram sometimes on a power outage when it's writing. Gen2 added a large power capacitor to give it the couple of seconds of backup to finish writing. Yeah it is this. Bonus note, the Gen2 cloudkey internal batteries seem to routinely fail around the 2-year mark, so I had to have mine replaced (just barely within warranty) because it was falling victim to the same corruption issue when my UPS would run down.
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Oct 11, 2021 18:21
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Cyks posted:Asus ZenWifi has a demo https://demoui.asus.com/index.asp to see what features it supports. What's the current thread recommendation for a router if I take Mesh out of the equation?
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Oct 11, 2021 20:01
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Kreeblah posted:You're going to need a point to point VPN appliance of some sort, which your work should provide you with if a setup like that is within their security policy to do. He'd still need something to keep his networks isolated. I'd think a vlan with some routing rules would work For those of you with big home racks/etc, what sort of considerations did you make for power needs? Just plug it in with the rest of your stuff, or did you have new circuits and outlets added for your equipment? I'm currently scheduling some unrelated electrical work and figure I might as well get a couple new outlets installed for an eventual rack purchase and am curious what other people have done (or perhaps wish you had done).
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Oct 11, 2021 21:39
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I just added another outlet to one of the two existing basement circuits for mine. You don’t need 20A unless you are getting stupid with equipment.
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Oct 11, 2021 22:35
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I got an EAP610 for in the indoor AP of my new Omada-based setup and one thing I was not prepared for is the physical footprint; it's like four times the size of the the AC AP Pro. Not a deal breaker, but something to be aware of.
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Oct 12, 2021 16:35
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devmd01 posted:I just added another outlet to one of the two existing basement circuits for mine. You don’t need 20A unless you are getting stupid with equipment. I'm currently just tapped in to an existing 20a circuit for the basement, but when I finish off the unfinished space I'll drop a dedicated 15-20a outlet just for the equipment rack. Not because it needs the power, but then tripping a breaker or shutting power off elsewhere doesn't take all the network and NAS gear offline. Right now it shares a circuit with some of the utility equipment, the water heater, air exchanger and water softener if I recall correctly.
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Oct 12, 2021 16:41
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Hey guys. Due to the shape of my house and where I have to place my modem/router combo, I get poo poo WiFi at the other corner of the house. Basically, my modem is all the way at one front corner and I don’t get WiFi at the back corner of the house. I don’t mind getting in my attic to run Cat6 to install a WAP or something similar. I’ve got a few questions but first: Current hardware/use case: Internet provider: Xfinity Speed: 1.2 gigabit/sec Modem/router combo: Arris SURFboard SBG8300 (had to get something compatible with Xfinity so I wouldn’t be stuck with a poo poo modem I’d pay $10/month forever for) Use case: a ~2,000sqft house that’s considerably longer than it is wide, prob 2:1 ratio Concurrent users: up to ten Devices connected: Two TVs streaming 4K a fair amount of the day 10+ mobile devices/tablets simultaneously connecting at times 3 desktop gaming computers (1 connected wired, two w/ 802.11 ax) Questions: 1. Can you recommend any heat mapping software (Windows 10) or apps (iOS)? 2. If a WAP is appropriate, what would meet needs given my current hardware/usecases? Let’s say the budget is… $300. 3. What is the length of CAT6 cable you can run before you have signal degradation? I seem to remember it being like… 150 ft or something around there? Appreciate any help guys, networking is basically black magic for me but I’m happy to put the work in to do what I need to — not sure where to start though. I’m open to any advice, thank you!!
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Oct 13, 2021 13:25
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Deployed a TP-Link EAP610 and EAP225 outdoor for the detached garage (via Ethernet) and it's running like a top. The Omada config software (which I am running locally only) looks a lot like earlier versions of Unifi's manager but is cleaner and a bit easier to use. Simple WAP configuration and security settings and I'm off and running. The EAP225 gets a bit warm near the top but not so much that I'm worried about it; the EAP610 is running cooler to the touch than my AC AP Pro is.
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Oct 13, 2021 17:29
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tehinternet posted:Hey guys. Due to the shape of my house and where I have to place my modem/router combo, I get poo poo WiFi at the other corner of the house. Basically, my modem is all the way at one front corner and I don’t get WiFi at the back corner of the house. 1. Heat mapping as in temperature or network signal strength stuff? Assuming the latter, I've used inSSIDer in the past for such activities. 2. A second WAP would probably work fine; as noted above, this morning I deployed an EAP610 and it's working well and isn't overly difficult to configure (though some basic networking knowledge is helpful). Two of those (one near your existing router where you turn off the WiFi on it) and another at the end of your Cat6a cable that goes through the attic to the other side of the house should take care of it. I got mine for $99 on Amazon so you're well within your budget. 3. Generally the max length is 100m, or roughly 300ft. You'd be fine with a run of that length, especially when it isn't terminated a bunch of times in between. If you plan to put the AP in the attic, be aware of operating temperature concerns based on where you live. The EAP225 outdoor from TP-Link has a wider range of supported operating temperatures than the EAP610 does. If you can run the Ethernet cable through the wall and have the AP in the climate controlled area of your house, then the EAP610 will do just fine.
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Oct 13, 2021 17:34
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Appreciate the advice — I want to check signal to see where the ideal placement of the WAP would be. I was planning on ceiling mounting it somewhere since I’m relatively handy and it’s not super difficult to do. 100m is far more than I’d need, so that’s great!
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Oct 15, 2021 01:21
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Today I went into my house and smelled a strong acrid smell. Traced it down to my UAP-nanoHD. See above. What are the youths doing these days as a replacement as a standalone UniFi AP? We have 0 problems with our wifi just need as a minimum 2.4ghz g for some lovely baby monitors. We do have modern wifi6 capable cell phones. U6-Lite-US? H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Oct 15, 2021 |
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Oct 15, 2021 17:38
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well poop 2 of my 3 aps are nanoHDs and the coverage sucks i hope they don't blow up tho
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Oct 15, 2021 23:38
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H110Hawk posted:Today I went into my house and smelled a strong acrid smell. Traced it down to my UAP-nanoHD. See above. What are the youths doing these days as a replacement as a standalone UniFi AP? We have 0 problems with our wifi just need as a minimum 2.4ghz g for some lovely baby monitors. We do have modern wifi6 capable cell phones. I just got two of them and they're good. Basically the same as my older Lites. You've got to buy the POE injectors separately if you need them though.
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Oct 16, 2021 03:02
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Ubiquiti APs tend to run hot, don't they? I guess having a bunch of ex-Apple engineers who left the Airport Base Station group after they were dissolved taught them not to give a poo poo about thermal management.. My U6-LR does put out enough heat that I think that if I got one of those FLIR cameras it'd probably show up as the brightest object in the room.. It was actually running hotter a few weeks back until I realized that the thin weather shield they packed it up in was removable.. I don't plan on Dremel-ing any holes in my U6 but I actually did that for my last gen AirPort Extreme 802.11ac and I think that's the only reason it still works, knock on wood. When I opened up mine, I discovered that Apple actually put a fan in this, their very last model, but it's kinda useless as all it does is move around air in a still-sealed chamber and it doesn't seem to turn on until internal temps hit cremation levels of heat. I cut some slots into the top of my AEBS, left off the dumb rubber bottom that effectively seals up the unit, and that seems to have extended its life. That and I only use it as an IoT hub now, and have turned off the 5 GHz radio.
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Oct 16, 2021 14:31
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Wondering if I should cut a few speed holes in my other nanohd then, thankfully it gets much better ventilation in general thanks to being on the ceiling. The dead one was crammed into a small cubby with a er-x, roku ultra, and tivo. The back was open but the front is sealed off to prevent baby antics.
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Oct 16, 2021 15:37
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I would have to say that if your nano isn't in an area exposed to the elements then sure why not drill some holes just to give the components some relief. I am sure someone is going to show up and say 'what a foolish idea, the manufacturers seal up the APs for a reason' though, but I'm gonna keep the speed holes on my AEBS just because I know a lot of people who didn't and who have promptly hurled their Time Capsules/AEBSes into the dumpster. I remember sitting in the auditorium seats at the Soho Apple store minding my own business and being within earshot of a salesperson trying to convince some lady that she should buy an AEBS, and he was telling her that the holes provided by the Ethernet jacks were good enough to allow internal ventilation, which kinda made me raise my head, turn towards the conversation, and wonder what the gently caress he was smoking. MY U6-LR even comes with a formed rubber condom to protect the ports for outside conditions, the Ubiquiti engineers seem to be dead serious about keeping the unit sealed at the potential cost of shortened life due to overheated components.. But mine is nailed up to a support column about eight feet off the ground in an indoor setup so maybe I will eventually get brave enough to charge up my Dremel and invest a buck or two on some fresh cutting wheels.. especially if UB cranks out something affordable for Wifi 6 Enhanced. But if you look at nearly every EdgeRouter and switch UB sells, they all have serrated speed holes on at least two sides, even including the vaunted ER-X. They even take the pains to point out that the EdgeRouter 4 is 'disruptively priced' and FANLESS for a 1 GHz quad-core CPU... but, it also does have speed holes.. Think I'll change the LEDs from blue to yellow tonight on my U6, just for kicks. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Oct 16, 2021 |
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Oct 16, 2021 16:29
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Binary Badger posted:
Hence the extremely short warranty period.
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Oct 16, 2021 16:39
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H110Hawk posted:Wondering if I should cut a few speed holes in my other nanohd then, thankfully it gets much better ventilation in general thanks to being on the ceiling. The dead one was crammed into a small cubby with a er-x, roku ultra, and tivo. The back was open but the front is sealed off to prevent baby antics. Hopefully because they were all crammed in there you did not also commit the cardinal sin of stacking devices (for those who don't get the reference, several Ubiquiti devices have specific warnings against doing so), but it does indeed sound like that cubby did not have enough airflow. I wouldn't add speed holes, personally, but you might consider rigging up some kind of fan to better-circulate the air in the cubby (if you haven't already). It might need even more frequent dusting with a fan in there, though. H110Hawk posted:Hence the extremely short warranty period. This is where credit card extended warranties shine (or third-party protection plans, but those tend to cost more than a free/included benefit).
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Oct 16, 2021 20:33
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astral posted:Hopefully because they were all crammed in there you did not also commit the cardinal sin of stacking devices  Surely not! And how dare you infer it!astral posted:but it does indeed sound like that cubby did not have enough airflow. I wouldn't add speed holes, personally, but you might consider rigging up some kind of fan to better-circulate the air in the cubby (if you haven't already). It might need even more frequent dusting with a fan in there, though. Oh certainly it doesn't have enough airflow. I've command stripped it to the top of the cubby now so it's not stacked, might command strip the ER-X and roku to opposing sides which would mean nothing is stacked. I bought a random USB fan off amazon and it was too loud, literally anything will do though. I plugged it into the usb port on the roku. Any suggestions? It just needs to turn to actually cause convection to work, doesn't need to be fast or high CFM. Speeeeeed holes are comin. astral posted:This is where credit card extended warranties shine (or third-party protection plans, but those tend to cost more than a free/included benefit). Wouldn't have saved me on this one, bought on the Amazon card (not the visa.) The new ones I just bought on a regular CC (Citi Double Cash) but I think they discontinued all of their useful features. I've claimed hundreds of dollars out of Citi's accidental damage and price matching programs prior to them realizing maybe they don't need to offer features that cost money.
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Oct 16, 2021 20:58
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My crawl space must be getting AMAZING wifi now.
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Oct 16, 2021 21:05
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H110Hawk posted:Wouldn't have saved me on this one, bought on the Amazon card (not the visa.) The new ones I just bought on a regular CC (Citi Double Cash) but I think they discontinued all of their useful features. I've claimed hundreds of dollars out of Citi's accidental damage and price matching programs prior to them realizing maybe they don't need to offer features that cost money. Yeah, it was a sad day when they killed the benefits on the Double Cash. There's a good credit card rewards/benefits thread in BFC if you're interested in finding a better 2%+ card or in extracting good signup bonuses from banks.
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Oct 17, 2021 01:49
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If anyone wants to go through the trouble at this point, the Asus RT-AC68U flashed to T-Mobile Cellspot TM-AC1900 are being sold open box by a guy on ebay for $30. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2843370820...258c79c70910INT There's instructions to flash it over to ASUS firmware on slickdeals in a post from 2019: https://slickdeals.net/f/12685621-t...c37&attr_track= I did this in 2016 or something to one of these and have been running it on DD-WRT for ages with little trouble (although I don't ask much of it on a second internet connection). It can be used with ASUS AiMesh as well which is a mesh networking thing for their consumer routers. The flashing process is time consuming and these are at least 5 year old routers so it's not an amazing deal at this point but I figured I'd post it if someone needed one and/or didn't mind the annoying reflashing process. This may be the last time they're easy to find since T-Mobile seems to have stopped giving them out.
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Oct 19, 2021 08:51
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I got two of these and meshed them with an RT-AC3100. Worked pretty well even with wireless backhaul.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:41
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Ah I missed it, I want another Asus to use as an access point.
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Oct 19, 2021 19:22
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Charles posted:Ah I missed it, I want another Asus to use as an access point. I guess they found more since there's still some up and it says the listing was updated: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284337082024?hash=item4233cf8ea8:g:C4MAAOSwVI5haZlR
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Oct 20, 2021 07:53
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Azhais posted:He'd still need something to keep his networks isolated. I'd think a vlan with some routing rules would work
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Oct 20, 2021 10:41
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So I moved and I kept my existing Comcast service, 400 down/25up, and today they bumped me up to 600. Not bad for $75/month. They must have noticed that my new address is eligible for service from RCN, with whom I can get 400 symmetrical for $45/month, 800 symmetrical for $50/month, and 940 symmetrical for $60/month. I don't really need the fast upload, but I'm curious as to whether my existing modem could make use of it? It's an SB8200 that for DOCSIS 3.0 has 32 channels down and 8 up, and for DOCSIS 3.1 has 2 down and 2 up. If this modem won't make use of those speeds from RCN, can one be recommended? My sister could use that upload speed, she's a video editor. EDIT: approvedmodems.com seems to indicate the SB8200 will keep up with the max speed offered. TITTIEKISSER69 fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 02:02
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Pretty sure the symmetrical speeds mean you live in a ftth neighborhood and should switch asap. Call and ask, but docsis can’t do that yet.
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Oct 23, 2021 02:11
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If you'd be getting symmetrical, that's probably not going to be cable internet that would use a cable modem. e:f;b
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Oct 23, 2021 02:11
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Yeah I don't know why I thought it was symmetrical, but now I can't find anything saying it is. Can't remember how I got that idea. Still, I'll switch to save a chunk of money each month.
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Oct 23, 2021 02:26
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I’m getting an edgerouter 4 because my orbi can’t get its poo poo together routing wise (every firmware so far has had a different fuckup), feels kind of good to be going back to the router/ap model after years. Also the orbi is a great mesh ap system but a lousy fuckin router. I can plug google fiber straight into the edgerouter right? Assuming they ever light up the fiber at our curb.
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Oct 23, 2021 02:48
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Dogen posted:I’m getting an edgerouter 4 because my orbi can’t get its poo poo together routing wise (every firmware so far has had a different fuckup), feels kind of good to be going back to the router/ap model after years. Also the orbi is a great mesh ap system but a lousy fuckin router. The setup you’re describing is exactly what I have. Works great and has for years now. Sadly I cannot speak to your GFiber question.
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Oct 23, 2021 05:46
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:So I moved and I kept my existing Comcast service, 400 down/25up, and today they bumped me up to 600. Not bad for $75/month. #firstworldproblems, but I had the privilege of paying $120/month for 1.2gigabit down, some fraction of that upload. And then another $50 a month for unlimited data! Thanks Comcast/Xfinity, you’re the only option I have that’s not satellite!  Basically gently caress Comcast and go to anyone near their speeds because they’re awful.
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Oct 23, 2021 15:19
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tehinternet posted:#firstworldproblems, but I had the privilege of paying $120/month for 1.2gigabit down, some fraction of that upload. And then another $50 a month for unlimited data! Thanks Comcast/Xfinity, you’re the only option I have that’s not satellite! The fun thing is we have 10 homes on our 4 mile long street that have been praying collectively just to get Comcast to lay cable from its current terminal point to our road. Our choices are cellular or satellite. Even motherfucking Dialup doesn’t work. 56k won’t stream YouTube, but our 1920s-era copper wires will not even push 28.8K reliably! And many of us have horror stories about the practices of 1st/2nd gen satellite providers. I downloaded an Ubuntu ISO and our house was throttled to unusable bandwidth for 13 days. For just under $100/month. And it was 2down/0.5up with a minimum latency under perfect conditions of 1000ms. Many, many really fun games with multiplayer , and later no-physical media downloads were straight up impossible. My GoG library is full now of games like Mass Effect-supposed to be fun, but I never had access to what many well regarded games from 2005-2018 because of data caps. Skyrim was great because it was a DVD with no DRM, and later on the (smaller-sized) mods kept it fresh. WoW was ok for PvE, but it took 10-12 months for me to learn how to stealth and backstab in PvP because you had to psychically predict the placement of your moving foe 1.5 seconds in the future! Always on DRM for single player PC games (Splinter Cell: Conviction was the worst!) made games unplayable for months until they patched it out due to sales and returns.
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Oct 23, 2021 17:42
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DerekSmartymans posted:The fun thing is we have 10 homes on our 4 mile long street that have been praying collectively just to get Comcast to lay cable from its current terminal point to our road. Our choices are cellular or satellite. Even motherfucking Dialup doesn’t work. 56k won’t stream YouTube, but our 1920s-era copper wires will not even push 28.8K reliably! And many of us have horror stories about the practices of 1st/2nd gen satellite providers. I downloaded an Ubuntu ISO and our house was throttled to unusable bandwidth for 13 days. For just under $100/month. And it was 2down/0.5up with a minimum latency under perfect conditions of 1000ms. Many, many really fun games with multiplayer , and later no-physical media downloads were straight up impossible. My GoG library is full now of games like Mass Effect-supposed to be fun, but I never had access to what many well regarded games from 2005-2018 because of data caps. Skyrim was great because it was a DVD with no DRM, and later on the (smaller-sized) mods kept it fresh. WoW was ok for PvE, but it took 10-12 months for me to learn how to stealth and backstab in PvP because you had to psychically predict the placement of your moving foe 1.5 seconds in the future! Always on DRM for single player PC games (Splinter Cell: Conviction was the worst!) made games unplayable for months until they patched it out due to sales and returns. Friend of mine runs an excavation company and he has put in lines well over a mile to get peeps cable. Can get pretty pricey depending on length and how many other utilities that may need to be crossed. I would assume most places wouldn't have an issue with that, but I'd run it by a Comcast tech first.
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Oct 23, 2021 18:40
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DerekSmartymans posted:The fun thing is we have 10 homes on our 4 mile long street that have been praying collectively just to get Comcast to lay cable from its current terminal point to our road. Our choices are cellular or satellite. Even motherfucking Dialup doesn’t work. 56k won’t stream YouTube, but our 1920s-era copper wires will not even push 28.8K reliably! And many of us have horror stories about the practices of 1st/2nd gen satellite providers. I downloaded an Ubuntu ISO and our house was throttled to unusable bandwidth for 13 days. For just under $100/month. And it was 2down/0.5up with a minimum latency under perfect conditions of 1000ms. Many, many really fun games with multiplayer , and later no-physical media downloads were straight up impossible. My GoG library is full now of games like Mass Effect-supposed to be fun, but I never had access to what many well regarded games from 2005-2018 because of data caps. Skyrim was great because it was a DVD with no DRM, and later on the (smaller-sized) mods kept it fresh. WoW was ok for PvE, but it took 10-12 months for me to learn how to stealth and backstab in PvP because you had to psychically predict the placement of your moving foe 1.5 seconds in the future! Always on DRM for single player PC games (Splinter Cell: Conviction was the worst!) made games unplayable for months until they patched it out due to sales and returns. Have you looked in to Starlink? Seems to be a great option if available to your area.
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Oct 23, 2021 18:54
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Hughmoris posted:Have you looked in to Starlink? Seems to be a great option if available to your area. I haven’t had to yet. The cellular 4G LTE signal is plenty which all 3 adults for a couple of months used direct tethering to AT&T service on our iPhones. Now, I have 22down/10up through an unlimited plan with T-Mobile and the 5G tower is less than a mile from my house, basically a coin flip between us and our nearest neighbors. I don’t have a 5G phone, but will buy one when they turn it on full time in a few months. It will be nice! My dad is willing to pay for Comcast IF they offer, and he knows I want whatever they might bring wired into my room. I set up a mesh network we use now, and am able to keep it secure-ish-ly managed much better than him. If Starlink gets as good as promised we would look into it, but three years of satellite internet (with admittedly older tech) have us very cautious!
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Oct 23, 2021 19:45
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