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Well I'm trying to go fast so I think I'm in the right place  oops
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Oct 20, 2021 01:29
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tildes posted:Are there worthwhile aftermarket security systems/car alarms? For a Mazda3 2019, if that matters. Or are most of them not really doing much beyond what already came w the car? Who do you think is going to steal this and what do you think you'll get out of having an alarm and/or tracking device if they do? And will you want it back after that happens? I see this as an insurance issue. I don't want a stolen car back. Just pay me out for it.
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Oct 20, 2021 02:38
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tildes posted:Are there worthwhile aftermarket security systems/car alarms? For a Mazda3 2019, if that matters. Or are most of them not really doing much beyond what already came w the car? Comprehensive insurance policy.
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Oct 20, 2021 05:12
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I have LoJack because I take a crate of my favorite Funkos with me everywhere I go and some of them are irreplaceable.
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Oct 20, 2021 05:22
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bird with big dick posted:I have LoJack because I take a crate of my favorite Funkos with me everywhere I go and some of them are irreplaceable. no wonder your Mach-E is so dingdang slow
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Oct 20, 2021 05:30
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totalnewbie posted:Are AM builds still dead? I've never properly run an AM/MoM/Agnostic build but AM got gutted bird with big dick posted:I have LoJack because I take a crate of my favorite Funkos with me everywhere I go and some of them are irreplaceable. I like these crossover posts
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Oct 20, 2021 05:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:no wonder your Mach-E is so dingdang slow It spends so much energy going 0-60 in 3.5 that afterwards it gets sleepy
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Oct 20, 2021 14:03
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A few months ago we bought a newish Buick encore. Car drives great, but we dealt with a persistent check engine light over the first two months, taking at least three trips to the dealership mechanic. After continued issues, we took the car to our long time mechanic. They discovered that the check engine light was on because of a bad turbo, which we had replaced. They also said the engine was covered in oil, like there was a huge leak. Unable to find the leak, they pressure washed the engine and told us to drive around and come back to find where the leak actually is. A month or so later we got another warning light, this time for traction control. Back to the local mechanic, he said the engine was still leaking, said it was originating from the valve cover gasket. Quoted $2k to repair. Since we've already spent $2k on a replacement turbo, and since I'm grumpy at this point, I'd like to avoid that. Do we have any recourse with the dealership mechanic? This has been an issue since we got the car, and they apparently ignored the leak and didn't pick up on the bad turbo.
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Oct 20, 2021 17:15
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Naylenas posted:A few months ago we bought a newish Buick encore. Car drives great, but we dealt with a persistent check engine light over the first two months, taking at least three trips to the dealership mechanic. After continued issues, we took the car to our long time mechanic. Why's a valve cover gasket $2k? It must be super complicated or something
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Oct 20, 2021 17:20
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Might be hard to access in this model? I didn't enquire at the time
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Oct 20, 2021 17:22
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Wondering if the head/block warped and they want to machine them for a $2k valve cover gasket bill. e: or replace one or the other. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Oct 20, 2021 |
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Oct 20, 2021 17:36
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Naylenas posted:A few months ago we bought a newish Buick encore. Car drives great, but we dealt with a persistent check engine light over the first two months, taking at least three trips to the dealership mechanic. After continued issues, we took the car to our long time mechanic. Does "newish" mean it's still under warranty? Buick's powertrain warranty is 5yr/60,000 mi.
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Oct 20, 2021 17:46
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I'm late to tach talk but, doesn't everything have a rev limiter in so you can't just explode the engine from going too high? (Excepting money shifting and general wear and tear from pushing it so hard.) Also, on the GTI:  What do the 2 red lines mean - is the thin one at 6k like a hey you should probably go ahead and shift, then the thicker one at ~7300 the actual "red line" where the limiter's about to kick in? (Tia  )
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Oct 20, 2021 18:23
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teh_Broseph posted:I'm late to tach talk but, doesn't everything have a rev limiter in so you can't just explode the engine from going too high? (Excepting money shifting and general wear and tear from pushing it so hard.) You nailed it. Thin red line is "think about shifting", thicker is "I'm done asking". Sometimes shows up as Orange -> Red, too. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Oct 20, 2021 |
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Oct 20, 2021 18:36
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Deteriorata posted:Does "newish" mean it's still under warranty? Buick's powertrain warranty is 5yr/60,000 mi.
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Oct 20, 2021 20:37
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If you had to replace an oil pan gasket, would you do it just before, just after, or somewhere in the middle of an oil change interval? because obviously I'm not going to re-use the oil that I drain in to a dirty rear end drain pan
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Oct 21, 2021 02:39
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wesleywillis posted:If you had to replace an oil pan gasket, would you do it just before, just after, or somewhere in the middle of an oil change interval? Just whenever is convenient but probably just before I replace the oil, like same job.
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Oct 21, 2021 02:47
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It doesn't really hurt to change the oil early, so just whenever is convenient and then your next oil change interval period starts again from then
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Oct 21, 2021 07:00
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Is there a way to tell if my new wheels have tire pressure sensors without breaking them down? Edit: 2014 Focus ST, Axis Sports w/ Eagle F1s. Got off marketplace, owner wasn't sure as he hadn't mounted them on his car.
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Oct 21, 2021 11:56
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Mambo No. 5 posted:Is there a way to tell if my new wheels have tire pressure sensors without breaking them down? Maybe someone else can answer if they need to be rotating to work, but I'd drive to a tire inflater and then let air out until it's around 15psi or something, turn the car on, see if the TPMS light comes on, fill it back up with air.
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Oct 21, 2021 12:21
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The valve stem might give you some idea, but a tire shop would probably be able to scan it with one of their tools to tell you definitively. I'd think Discount and the like would be willing to do that much without charging you either.
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Oct 21, 2021 15:00
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VelociBacon posted:Maybe someone else can answer if they need to be rotating to work, but I'd drive to a tire inflater and then let air out until it's around 15psi or something, turn the car on, see if the TPMS light comes on, fill it back up with air.
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Oct 21, 2021 16:00
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Crossposting from the fix-it-fast thread in DIY: My '03 Honda Civic's roof is leaking. The water's getting into the cabin via the rear view mirror mount. I notice it when the car is parked (with the front of the car facing downslope, if it matters) as well as when it's driving. I don't see any obvious rust spots on the roof, but it is an old car. There's plenty of worn bits of rubber and little crevices around the roof panel, no clue if they're relevant. I'd have photos but it's dark right now. The Fix It Fast folks said to take it to a windshield specialist to have it resealed. I did get the windshield replaced something like a decade ago, but the roof leaking wasn't noticeable until maybe a year ago, and we had hardly any rain so I just put up with it. I'm sure that leaving it un-investigated means that I now have rust issues somewhere in the roof, but this car is a beater anyway.
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Oct 22, 2021 04:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Crossposting from the fix-it-fast thread in DIY: I mean, if you’re that concerned about there being rust or leakage through the roof then take it to a body place for an inspection/diagnostic. They should be able to do glass replacement/resealing too. I assume you’d have mentioned it if there was one, but your car doesn’t have a moonroof, does it?
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Oct 22, 2021 04:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Crossposting from the fix-it-fast thread in DIY: Resealing the windshield will work if you're sure that's where the water is getting through. It's a waste of money if it isn't. So step one should be to diagnose what the actual source of the water is.
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Oct 22, 2021 04:25
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Deteriorata posted:Resealing the windshield will work if you're sure that's where the water is getting through. It's a waste of money if it isn't. So step one should be to diagnose what the actual source of the water is. This was my thinking. Any advice for techniques to use to figure out how the water's getting in? Ok Comboomer posted:I mean, if you’re that concerned about there being rust or leakage through the roof then take it to a body place for an inspection/diagnostic. They should be able to do glass replacement/resealing too. I'm not really concerned about rust, but I'd like the roof to not leak for the remaining year or so that I plan to own this vehicle. It's kind of a bad time to be car shopping right now, and I'm hoping to wait it out. And correct, the car does not have a moonroof. It's a standard 4-door sedan. It happens to be a hybrid, but I don't think that's relevant here.
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Oct 22, 2021 04:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This was my thinking. Any advice for techniques to use to figure out how the water's getting in? Have someone sit in the car while you run a hose over various places, like around the windshield or over rust spots that might have perforated.
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Oct 22, 2021 05:03
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This was my thinking. Any advice for techniques to use to figure out how the water's getting in? Google around to see the usual spots that it happens and then pull your headliner and hose it there and see what happens (or pour water there, etc). Also could try using gorilla tape or similar to cover areas you think it might be leaking and see if it stops (this works better for sunroof because it's just a flat surface to tape onto).
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Oct 22, 2021 05:14
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For the actual fixing, how bad an idea would it be to use silicone caulk?
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Oct 23, 2021 00:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For the actual fixing, how bad an idea would it be to use silicone caulk? I think it wouldn't last very well but yeah if you don't really want to spend money just a bunch of black caulk would be fine if you can get it to the right spot. I'd worry about trapping water in there personally unless you get a dry week or can put the car somewhere warm and dry for awhile before doing it.
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Oct 23, 2021 04:01
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Welp, found the leak, it's in the weather stripping above the driver's door. For now I've just covered it with some tape; there's rain coming today and tomorrow so I don't exactly have the right environment for a permanent fix.
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Oct 23, 2021 16:43
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Well, finally finished with the Buick's fuel lines. I'm now waiting on **one** brass connector I need which I had to order online. In the meantime, I've been driving a 2009 Santa Fe V6. It has a small issue. On hard breaking, I can feel the revs dropping below where they should be. If you hold the brake enough, the engine develops a misfire. My guess is that this is a vacuum leak in one of the vacuum brake lines? Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 17:14
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Nebakenezzer posted:Well, finally finished with the Buick's fuel lines. I'm now waiting on **one** brass connector I need which I had to order online. brake booster
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Oct 23, 2021 17:22
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VelociBacon posted:Because it's the intake mani and that car is normally aspirated you can always mist a little wd40 around where you think the leak is. If it affects the idle, you have a leak. Best to do this with the engine not hot. I’m not having any luck with this method. It’s hard to get the wd40 nozzle in a bunch of paces around the manifold and it doesn’t mist very well. I misted around the throttle body as well, no dice. All the places I can find where there may be a gasket in the system are so close together that isolating the sound is proving impossible. Is there another way to diagnose without taking things apart and looking at gaskets?
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Oct 23, 2021 22:07
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I’m not having any luck with this method. It’s hard to get the wd40 nozzle in a bunch of paces around the manifold and it doesn’t mist very well. I misted around the throttle body as well, no dice. All the places I can find where there may be a gasket in the system are so close together that isolating the sound is proving impossible. Is there another way to diagnose without taking things apart and looking at gaskets? Smoke machine. They're not cheap, but you can DIY build one out of a paint can and a glow plug or other heating source. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9C0bJZYgMc Not endorsing this particular video/method, but it's typical of the build. I have one that I built a while back and it's been super useful from time to time.
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Oct 23, 2021 22:16
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I’m not having any luck with this method. It’s hard to get the wd40 nozzle in a bunch of paces around the manifold and it doesn’t mist very well. I misted around the throttle body as well, no dice. All the places I can find where there may be a gasket in the system are so close together that isolating the sound is proving impossible. Is there another way to diagnose without taking things apart and looking at gaskets? Try brake cleaner instead of WD40. Some people use propane even.
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Oct 24, 2021 07:23
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Yeah an (UNLIT, but open) propane torch waved around any suspected vacuum leaks works quite well. The engine RPMs increase a bit when you get the tip of the torch near the leak.
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Oct 24, 2021 07:38
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Hm, I’ve never heard of that. I have a propane torch and brake cleaner. I like the smoke machine idea but I don’t have the stuff to build one.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:18
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Hm, I’ve never heard of that. I have a propane torch and brake cleaner. I like the smoke machine idea but I don’t have the stuff to build one. every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.
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Oct 24, 2021 16:43
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Hm, I’ve never heard of that. I have a propane torch and brake cleaner. I like the smoke machine idea but I don’t have the stuff to build one. They are on ebay for 50 bucks or so. Looks like a glorified bucket.
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Oct 24, 2021 17:27
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C-Bangin' it 