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Colostomy Bag posted:They are on ebay for 50 bucks or so. Looks like a glorified bucket.
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Oct 24, 2021 19:35
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FogHelmut posted:I should take this out, right? It's not leaking and I don't know how long its been in there. I took it out and there was no puncture. The metal thing was like 1/8" long and not through the tread.
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Oct 24, 2021 21:45
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FogHelmut posted:I took it out and there was no puncture. The metal thing was like 1/8" long and not through the tread. My opinion for future you and other readers is if it's not leaking, leave it. And if it is leaking, leave it and go to a tire shop if you are in town.
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Oct 25, 2021 09:00
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Are BMW still using mechanical/clutch fans in their cars? I'd imagine not with the priority to squeeze every last MPG out of an engine you can, but I always appreciated that they were the last holdouts outside of trucks/suv/heavy duty vehicles.
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Oct 25, 2021 20:13
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2016 Honda Civic LX, I'm going to be getting winter tires in a week or so and I have a couple small questions. Highs are going to be in the mid-50's for around a week or two after I get them before hopefully going down into the 40's into November. Driving, say, 75 miles a day, won't affect the tread too badly right? I know you're not supposed to drive them in hot weather but 50's can't be that bad, right? I'm getting them now because of a Michelin $70 mail-in rebate. My other question is, with a front-wheel drive car, do I particularly need a 4-wheel alignment when I get new tires or is a front-wheel alignment fine?
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Oct 25, 2021 22:01
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mentholmoose posted:2016 Honda Civic LX, I'm going to be getting winter tires in a week or so and I have a couple small questions. A few days in the 50s is no problem. A front wheel alignment is probably fine. Rears rarely get out of alignment on a FWD car unless you hit a curb pretty hard or something like that.
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Oct 25, 2021 22:17
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I've never heard of anyone actually only doing a two-wheel alignment. If poo poo's sufficiently jacked at the rear, setting the front to "zero" might still result in the car pulling to one side. If they truly don't even check against the rear then you're only really getting camber, toe, and maybe caster set, without any ability to truly center the steering. And yeah, modern winter tires will survive a lot of heat and abuse before they have problems.
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Oct 25, 2021 22:42
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Yeah the place I'm planning on getting the tires from provides a free two-wheel alignment and will do all four for an extra $64. I haven't had any issues with pulling and the like yet, but I'll probably go with the four wheel alignment just to be safe. Thank you both for the help!
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Oct 25, 2021 23:19
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mentholmoose posted:Yeah the place I'm planning on getting the tires from provides a free two-wheel alignment and will do all four for an extra $64. I haven't had any issues with pulling and the like yet, but I'll probably go with the four wheel alignment just to be safe. Thank you both for the help! So, the free 2 wheel alignment is to sell a proper alignment, and $64 aint' so bad. Just have them do it.
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Oct 25, 2021 23:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've never heard of anyone actually only doing a two-wheel alignment. My van has zero adjustments in the rear. If it's tweaked enough to matter, you need to replace the rear axle beam.
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Oct 26, 2021 00:53
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I know selling a car in CA that doesn't pass smog is illegal but are there exceptions? I inherited a 2000 Toyota I'm trying to sell that I'm pretty sure won't pass smog. Once that's confirmed, can I register it as non-operational and sell it to someone who understands the smog condition it's in?
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Oct 26, 2021 02:27
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I have an Audi A4, right now it is wearing Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 tires. I purchased them in 2019 and I think put ~18000 miles on them. Unfortunately, they seem to have worn quite quickly. I think one of them is already at 3/32nds of an inch, and they are all within 1 or 2 32nds. The 'S' in DWS has already worn off as a wear indicator. Looks like they have a tread warranty for 50000 miles (http://continentaltire.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/789/~/mileage-warranty). But I did not purchase from them directly, I was at a mechanic. Do tire warranties cover you if you got it through a mechanic or whatever instead of the tire company itself? The only places listed in their 'find a store' dealio are dealers which are like one hundred fun bucks over Tire Rack's prices per tire, so hopefully I did not have to go to their official places.
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Oct 26, 2021 03:29
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I've used a tyre mileage warranty before The mechanic talked to the manufacturer/supplier then gave me a pro-rata credit (e.g. tyre cost $250 new for 50,000mi. Needed replacing at 40,000. Got $50 to use on any make/type of tyre.
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Oct 26, 2021 03:42
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Powershift posted:every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.
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Oct 26, 2021 03:59
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simplefish posted:I've used a tyre mileage warranty before Sadly this mechanic is currently out of business lol. They were acquired by a larger chain of mechanic shops. I will call who acquired them and see if they can help out, but I am almost sure they won't. Worth a shot.
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Oct 26, 2021 04:47
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I dunno about that. If I understand it correctly, the tire manufacturer coughs up some cash, and you spent it towards more tires, almost certainly at that same shop. Seems like a really easy way to sell some tires!
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Oct 26, 2021 05:38
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drat they probably require 2/32nds on all 4 tires before replacing and that sounds scary as hell in wet Midwest weather at highway speeds. Thats dumb.
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Oct 26, 2021 06:15
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Inner Light posted:I have an Audi A4, right now it is wearing Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 tires. I purchased them in 2019 and I think put ~18000 miles on them. That's about how long mine ever lasted and never expected them to reach 50k. Tires lasting 50k is foreign to me. Anyway, I would not ride on those in the snow. My last set was sliding all over and nearly ended up in a ditch in a light dusting when they got that low. They're great when the S is still visible, but not at all once it's worn past that level.
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Oct 26, 2021 13:32
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Thanks. I'm considering going back to ContiProContact for the next set. I know the DWS06 are great, but for some reason I feel better with OEM tires, it's what the car was tested with for road noise and all that. Maybe I'm being dumb though.
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Oct 26, 2021 16:36
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Inner Light posted:Thanks. I'm considering going back to ContiProContact for the next set. I know the DWS06 are great, but for some reason I feel better with OEM tires, it's what the car was tested with for road noise and all that. Maybe I'm being dumb though. Imo this is like finding out what gas brand was used in the mpg marketing calculations and only using that. You get the benefits of sound deadening regardless of what tires you're on, and you can look up reviews of tires to see how loud they are.
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Oct 26, 2021 16:37
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In my experience, OEM tires are usually near the top of the list based on price and middle of the pack based on traction ratings. Unless you drive a supercar, I'd almost never look at OEM as a deciding factor.
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Oct 26, 2021 16:59
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After 5 years or so you probably won't be able to get the exact OEM tire anyway. Tire manufacturers change up their products like any other industry.
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Oct 26, 2021 17:02
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What do you all like for rust converters / inhibitors / psuedo-primers? I've got some surface rust on both body and frame that I'd like to cease. POR seems to be the big name and I'm not against going with them, but I wouldn't argue with an alternate cheaper option. The body part would be going down pre-sound deadening if it makes a difference.
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Oct 26, 2021 17:56
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WTFBEES posted:POR seems to be the big name and I'm not against going with them, but I wouldn't argue with an alternate cheaper option. Chassis Saver seems to work just as well and is (was?) cheaper.
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Oct 26, 2021 17:59
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Inner Light posted:I feel better with OEM tires, it's what the car was tested with for road noise and all that. Critically, it's what the cars are tested on for mpg ratings. I would not assume OEM tires would be quietest. Tire choice affects many factors, but fuel efficiency is the only one that gets printed on the window sticker in giant numbers. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 18:43
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If you want quiet tires check out the Bridgestone Turanza Quiettrack. I like them a lot.
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Oct 26, 2021 23:36
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I know that the aftermarket security systems people would put on their '80s-'90s cars frequently end up causing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery faster than usual. Is the same true of dealer-installed ones? My battery on my project car is dying after a week or two and I'm not sure if it's the cold having killed it or a parasitic drain somewhere. I guess I could take it to the auto parts store and have them check the battery when I get the chance. If it is parasitic draw and dealer-installed systems can do the same thing that gives me a starting point to pull before testing anything else since I can't really afford an Optima like you tend to need here to have the battery last more than a couple years.
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Oct 26, 2021 23:48
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Entirely possible, I wouldn't trust a dealer installed system any more - literally, any, at all - than one installed by an idiot PO. They're bad. The same trash electronics often installed at least as bad if not worse, because at least the idiot PO could take their time, whereas the dealer tech installing it has to "get them all in before you go to lunch, Brad!"
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Oct 27, 2021 00:21
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Okay. I wasn't sure if it was going to be a matter of garbage-tier cheap aftermarket systems going bad vs official Subaru dealer option equipment. I think I see which cable is going to the security system, although I may be wrong. If that's the case is it as simple as pulling the power? It doesn't seem to be advanced enough to be an immobilizer or anything, just honks really loud if you open it up and don't start it within 15-20 seconds. Maybe I should look for some documentation on it somewhere, I've got the FSM. Maybe it's in there, although it seems weird for dealer equipment to be in there.
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Oct 27, 2021 02:36
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Dealer-installed equipment is just the same poo poo as any other aftermarket, just with a higher price tag. And while I fully advocate eliminating lovely noisemaker alarms, you should also do some actual testing with a multimeter to see if there actually is a parasitic draw, and where it's coming from because there's plenty of non-alarm ways for that to happen.
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Oct 27, 2021 03:18
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I've had factory alarms but I believe they were port installed. Or the e90 was dealer installed but it was designed for it. And I think the Subaru shock sensor just plugged into the stock harness. But it's still a bit of a gamble what they actually put in there.
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Oct 27, 2021 05:42
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Yeah, good point on making sure that's the problem. I just need to get batteries for the new multimeter my dad gave me after my free HF one bit the dust. It is 100% possible that the cold weather has killed an already marginal battery too. I'm probably going to need a new battery for my DD this winter, once I have money to spend on my money pit again I'll pick up an Optima or something for it. I don't know the science but the extreme cold kills lead-acid batteries a lot faster than sealed AGM batteries. I've got the flyer for what they installed so maybe that will give me some clues. Fake edit: This isn't a flyer, it's the installation instructions. Everything I need to know about how it's (supposed to be) hooked up. Thank you old man original owner for keeping all of your records. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 05:46
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2008 Ford Escape AWD V6 3.0, bucking under specific situations (infrequently and for at most 3-5 seconds) - travelling at around 100kph in flats - going uphill at around 50kph - other situations (it is possible I am simply mixing the bucking feel with the lovely road around here on occasion) If the throttle is increased when this happened, it almost immediately stops. check engine is for upstream sensor on one bank (replaced), but reports both a stuck lean (P2197) as well as a high voltage code(P0152) (if I am understanding correctly, high voltage means rich). Doesnt smell like it is spewing excess fuel, fuel economy is for sure reduced. No overheating, however it is currently at or below 0 most of the time around here. Clearing the codes has returned P0152 but not P2196 (at least yet) Current suspicions are: bad wiring harness for sensor or vacuum leak, although if Im wrong about the codes, possibly a bad fuel injector on the corresponding bank?
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Oct 27, 2021 18:57
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Any EV Understanders here? I have a 2014 Nissan Leaf that has gotten, let's say, limited use during the pandemic (we mostly work from home now and drive my wife's car for errands). Unsurprisingly, the 12v battery drained completely after about a year of sitting around not getting used, and subsequently would not hold much of a charge at all (this is unsurprising, the thing was probably on its way out even before a year of neglect). Now, a few months ago I was able to start the thing with one of those portable jumpers, drive it around for awhile, and generally make sure it was still functional. It was, and the big battery still had a reasonable amount of charge! "Jump" forward to today. We are moving and I need this car to be functional again. I purchased a brand new 12v battery and followed the instructions on replacing the old, dead battery. Essentially just used a 10 mm wrench to loosen the two fasteners to the positive and negative terminals as well as the fasteners that held the battery in place. Popped that sucker out, then popped in the fresh one from Costco and fastened everything back up in the recommended order. Then I go to start the car. Car will no longer start at all. If the big battery were the issue, the instruments would at least turn on. I am not getting so much as a click or a single light. I tried the alternative start method per the manual instructions in case the stupid "intelligent key" fobs are drained; still nothing. My next step is replacing the batteries in the stupid keys and trying both the regular start and alternative starts again. Any other thoughts on potential solutions?
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Oct 27, 2021 23:48
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2020 Prius Prime Went over a really tall speed bump that had a drop off on the other end (at a landfill, designed for trucks) and heard/felt a thud through the rear of the car when I was over it. Was that my rear suspension bottoming out? I didn't hear any scraping noises but certainly felt the thud. I thought I took it pretty slow but I wasn't aware it had a steep drop off on the other side. I've peeked under and can't see anything that looks off but that's just looking from ground level. Is it something to worry about and/or should I just take it to a mechanic to take a look under for peace of mind? paberu fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 23:51
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paberu posted:2020 Prius Prime In Boston we call that Wednesday Maybe it hosed with your alignment but if it didnt burst your tires or gently caress with the air retention in your rims (are your back tires deflating very slowly over time, like a couple days or hours?) then youre probably fine. To quote a goon when I had a similar question years ago- modern cars are built to take highway potholes at 90mph, its probably fine. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 00:21
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Vox Nihili posted:Any EV Understanders here? First things first always: Make sure red is on + and black on -, and everything is tightened down properly :P I wonder if you might have corroded / dirty leads. It's been a reoccurring problem in this thread, it seems like. I don't think I've ever seen it but I've heard of batteries being duds too, but I wouldn't jump to that conclusion first. Maybe somebody here can find the post that shows how to check for dirty connections. Do you still have that portable jumper?
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Oct 28, 2021 02:53
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Charles posted:First things first always: It's definitely + to + and - to -. I do have the jumper, and I tried jumping the new battery after installing it with no luck. If the connectors are dirty can they just be cleaned more or less conventionally?
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Oct 28, 2021 04:45
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Vox Nihili posted:It's definitely + to + and - to -. Oh boy do I get to say it again? StormDrain posted:Pick up an iron maiden fleshlight (battery terminal wire brush) so you can clean up the connectors inside and out while you're at it.
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Oct 28, 2021 05:32
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Asking because I've seen this one in person: you took the terminal protectors off of the new battery, right?
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Oct 28, 2021 06:55
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