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FISHMANPET posted:I've been thinking of getting a subscription to Fine Woodworking, because I like the idea of project ideas and other tips being delivered to me in an analog form that I can sit outside and read or whatever. Is this a horrible idea, and/or is there a better magazine for woodworking? I'm also being tempted by Fine Homebuilding for basically the same reason. Not that I'm looking for tips on anything specific, but just generally building up my knowledge for when things come up in the future. I like Fine Woodworking a lot and would definitely recommend their Unlimited membership, which also includes their online archives and digital copies of pretty much all Tauntun books. I agree with someone else that woodworking magazines get stale after a couple years. But I keep my subscriptions because eh, they're cheap, and reading them sometimes gets me in the mood to do woodworking. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I personally prefer Popular Woodworking. It's usually quite a bit cheaper. I've gotten plenty of good ideas from FWW as well though and the 'reader tips' section has some great stuff in it. Popular Woodworking is probably a bit more hand-tool focused and FWW is a bit more power tool focused, but both are pretty mixed in that regard now. Bob Flexner has a regular column in PW that's great, and I like that they have a regular column on design in general too. They both get kind of stale after a few years because there's really only so many articles you can write about table saw sleds. You could probably alternate a yr of one and then a year of the other and not miss much. I find each individual issue of FWW a little underwhelming, but FWW as a whole is pretty impressive and I keep meaning to get their archives. Stultus Maximus posted:Yeah, between Bob Flexner and Chris Schwarz, Popular Woodworking would be my preference. Schwarz doesn't write for PWW anymore, he actually writes for FWW now, every couple of issues. I think PWW has dropped Flexner and Walker, too, since the magazine's parent company went through bankruptcy in 2019. At least I haven't noticed their articles in the past couple of issues. PWW is clearly going through some transition period and I honestly wouldn't recommend it right now. Tons of ads and the paperstock makes kleenex look sturdy. Though, I stay subscribed in the hopes that they turn it around. z0331 posted:I have a subscription and like FWW but it's more or less the home of precision-driven studio furniture. I happen to really like (usually) their aesthetic and like Mike Pekovich and Chris Gochnour, who do a lot of hand tool work. Pekovich is one of my icons, his work is great. I agree that FWW is more focused at professional quality work, including access to professional tools, but I think you can adapt most of their techniques and designs for the tools you have. I think of the magazines as more inspiration and general interest, than education. I'll also throw a shoutout to Mortise and Tenon "magazine", which is a twice-yearly periodical with longer articles more focused around woodworking and craft history and philosophy than practice.
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Oct 25, 2021 22:43
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Serenade posted:Is a wood threading tool as useful as I think it is? bolts exist so no they're a big hassle to make properly and drat near every used wood-screw clamp/vise I've ever seen has huge chunks of threading missing, because they innately involve putting all the force on some little cross-grain threads that want nothing more than to just strip off. They stick if the wood swells, or if you put anything on the wood to stop it from swelling. As joinery they'd be impossible to remove and serve all the same mechanical and aesthetic function as a dowel for 20x the labor. They look neat on antique workbenches but there's a dozen better ways to do whatever you're doing unless you're mass-producing knockoff antique workbenches. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 22:49
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:bolts exist so no That's the sort of answer I needed. It's fun to imagine being able to make all those things with your own tools, but not if the end result.... sucks. As you say, bolts exist and so do threaded rods. Not even counting the labor or cost of failures, would probably take dozens of clamps for the cost of raw threaded rods to outpace wood threading tools.
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Oct 25, 2021 23:26
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I've almost finished my box and just having some trouble with the lid. The lid pivots on brass dowels and fits nicely, and looks good when closed, but there's not enough clearance for the back of the lid and the inside edge of the back of the box. It opens and closes fine now since it's not glued and it pushes the top box joints back, but once glued up that's obviously not gonna work. The back of the lid has an 1/8" roundover on both sides and the inside edge of the box also has a roundover. I thought this would be enough, but it's not. The video I watched on making these, they used a 30 degree chamfer on the inside edge instead of a roundover, but I think the intention of that was to allow the lid to open more than 90 degrees. The lid as it is now goes a little beyond 90 and I like where it is, and would rather just leave that aspect as is, but if I need to do that to get the clearance I will. I only have a 45 degree chamfer bit so I'm waiting on another one to come in. Any ideas on how to get enough material out of the way with what I have now to get the lid to clear? Please ignore any atrocious joints you can see. I have a lot of gap filling to do.  
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Oct 25, 2021 23:32
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Serenade posted:That's the sort of answer I needed. It's fun to imagine being able to make all those things with your own tools, but not if the end result.... sucks. yeah they're cool and I'm a little salty about it myself cause I had the same thought but looking into it there's a reason functional wood screws are hundreds of bucks and threaded rod is like $.12/ft
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Oct 26, 2021 00:34
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give us the thickness of the back wall, thickness of the lid, and coordinates of the pin relative to the top left corner. The maximum amount of material you can have on it for a full range of motion will be a radius centered on the pin and equal to the shortest distance from the pin axis to the back wall.
shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 00:39
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alternative solution: measure the longest distance from the corner of the lid to the pin axis and carve a relief groove into the back wall
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Oct 26, 2021 00:50
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shame on an IGA posted:give us the thickness of the back wall, thickness of the lid, and coordinates of the pin relative to the top left corner. The maximum amount of material you can have on it for a full range of motion will be a radius centered on the pin and equal to the shortest distance from the pin axis to the back wall. Thickness of both the back wall and lid is 3/8". The pin is located 5/8" from the back wall and 3/16" from the top. shame on an IGA posted:alternative solution: measure the longest distance from the corner of the lid to the pin axis and carve a relief groove into the back wall For this I may have to ask about more details. Sounds like you can help me figure out how much material needs to be removed, just have to figure out the best way to do it. Thanks!
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Oct 26, 2021 01:00
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Serenade posted:That's the sort of answer I needed. It's fun to imagine being able to make all those things with your own tools, but not if the end result.... sucks. There's a local relic that made extensive use of wooden bolts, nuts, threaded rod, etc. Literally the whole structure is wood. It's been closed for decades and is still standing despite not being maintained, but we'll never build another one.
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Oct 26, 2021 01:19
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Olothreutes posted:There's a local relic that made extensive use of wooden bolts, nuts, threaded rod, etc. Literally the whole structure is wood. It's been closed for decades and is still standing despite not being maintained, but we'll never build another one. Lol, good Lord. 6.5 million board feet. Those fuckres.
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Oct 26, 2021 02:18
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You can make a wood tap and die pair yourself fairly cheaply as a weekend project if you really want to try it out. With coarse enough threads and a large enough dowel, and stable enough wood, it works well enough. As everyone else has said, metal rod is mechanically superior in almost every way and cheaper than the wood you would use in your dowel.Olothreutes posted:There's a local relic that made extensive use of wooden bolts, nuts, threaded rod, etc. Literally the whole structure is wood. It's been closed for decades and is still standing despite not being maintained, but we'll never build another one. Yeah, these are cool as hell but they weren't built out of wood because it's great construction material. You couldn't have any metal in the structure or it would ruin the EMP and Radar measurements. Dry wood is close to RF transparent which is part of why those are also specifically built in the desert. They don't use them anymore because now they have anechoic chambers large enough to hang aircraft in.
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Oct 26, 2021 02:20
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nosleep posted:Thickness of both the back wall and lid is 3/8". The pin is located 5/8" from the back wall and 3/16" from the top.  2 ways to go: Shaving the lid: All the wood on the lid corners outside the smaller full circle has to go. It'll look weird. Shaving the wall: All the wood on the wall piece that is inside the larger circle has to go. 5/16 radius but only 1/64" deep, this is the way. You can probably sand that off with your finger if you're patient.
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Oct 26, 2021 02:36
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shame on an IGA posted:
Well this is incredibly helpful. Thanks for doing that. I'll mark it off tomorrow and see if I can sand it down.
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Oct 26, 2021 04:49
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I bought a hand mitre saw which is the type with metal guide rods top and bottom. I can't get it to cut straight, the saw blade seems to want to drift from vertical. In the end the results I gave up and used a hole I had drilled through a 2x3 as a jig and used a hacksaw to trim the end flat. https://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Scie-a-onglet-550-mm/900538/article.html Am I just on a hiding to nothing with a 20 buck mitre saw? It feels like it would be better to use a mitre box and tenon saw. I don't really want to buy a power mitre saw or table saw at this point.
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Oct 26, 2021 11:05
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knox_harrington posted:I bought a hand mitre saw which is the type with metal guide rods top and bottom. I can't get it to cut straight, the saw blade seems to want to drift from vertical. In the end the results I gave up and used a hole I had drilled through a 2x3 as a jig and used a hacksaw to trim the end flat. Shooting board and hand plane
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Oct 26, 2021 11:45
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Awesome ! Thanks, I will get on that. I was unable to get anything I recognize as a normal plane in the hardware store here so will need to do some research. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KKeGnfHuhvU "it mit're been better" lol
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Oct 26, 2021 12:17
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knox_harrington posted:Awesome ! Thanks, I will get on that. I was unable to get anything I recognize as a normal plane in the hardware store here so will need to do some research. You can use a wooden plane just as well as a metal one for everything you need to do, those will be a lot easier to find in CH or DE. Metal planes are more common in the anglosphere, but there are some Czech and German manufacturers of medium-value metal planes still.
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Oct 26, 2021 12:59
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Got a line on a $500 Powermatic 54A in rough shape. Looks like a pretty good deal and I'm equipped to refurb it. Am I on the right track?
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Oct 26, 2021 13:03
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Yooper posted:Got a line on a $500 Powermatic 54A in rough shape. Looks like a pretty good deal and I'm equipped to refurb it. Am I on the right track? Thats a good price but it looks kind of beat up. Take account of every single minor flaw in the thing in front of whoever is selling it and offer them $300
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Oct 26, 2021 13:45
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Yooper posted:Got a line on a $500 Powermatic 54A in rough shape. Looks like a pretty good deal and I'm equipped to refurb it. Am I on the right track? E: definitely looks like it's missing some knobs and parts and stuff where you adjust the height. I would assume the tables are completely out of whack and plan on spending a day getting them/new knives set back up, in addition to all the rust removal. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 14:20
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meatpimp posted:My trip to the lumber yard is going to have to wait. I found a guy selling 8/4 spalted maple in 7" and 11" widths, 12' long. Getting 3 sticks for $200. Looks a bit high at ~3.50/bdft, but right in line with current pricing and I really like spalted maple. Took me about a month, but I finally got to the logging company. What a cool place, with so much awesome material. This welcomes you:  And I wanted to get a bunch of hard maple for a bench top, but they didn't have any dried. Instead of waiting, I grabbed two big 13" slabs of red oak. That should do it. I also got a couple sticks of 8/4 x 8 x 7' walnut and some walnut off cuts. My splurge was an 8/4x 8x6' stick of purple heart. That's going to be amazing. Total: $300. I thought that was absolutely fair, was I wrong? 
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Oct 26, 2021 16:27
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EVERYWHERE 
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Yooper posted:Got a line on a $500 Powermatic 54A in rough shape. Looks like a pretty good deal and I'm equipped to refurb it. Am I on the right track? Bring a long straight-edge to check for twist in the beds, like Kaiser mentioned. If you're okay with that and it fires up, it looks like a good deal.
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Oct 26, 2021 17:41
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I was looking at SawStop saws because maybe the motor on my Unisaw is fried or about to be fried so I'm window shopping and dreaming of new saws, and I notice they have different brake cartridges for using a dado stack vs. regular blade. Youtube made swapping between the two seem about as as quick and simple as removing a riving knife-is that actually the case? Will the saw still run if you do swap to a dado but don't swap to the dado cartridge?
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Oct 26, 2021 18:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I was looking at SawStop saws because maybe the motor on my Unisaw is fried or about to be fried so I'm window shopping and dreaming of new saws, and I notice they have different brake cartridges for using a dado stack vs. regular blade. Youtube made swapping between the two seem about as as quick and simple as removing a riving knife-is that actually the case? Will the saw still run if you do swap to a dado but don't swap to the dado cartridge? I'd have to assume that the increase mass requires a stronger stopping force. Even if you could I bet you'd be looking at a shredded hand if you set off a regular saw blade cartridge with a dado stack. edit: First question under blades from https://www.sawstop.com/support/faqs/: Can I make dado cuts? Yes. SawStop saws support 8” dado stacks. The optional dado brake cartridge must be used for dado cuts. It has a larger brake pawl designed to stop the multiple blades in a dado set. In addition, you will also need to purchase a zero-clearance insert for your dado stack. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 18:52
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I was looking at SawStop saws because maybe the motor on my Unisaw is fried or about to be fried so I'm window shopping and dreaming of new saws, and I notice they have different brake cartridges for using a dado stack vs. regular blade. Youtube made swapping between the two seem about as as quick and simple as removing a riving knife-is that actually the case? Will the saw still run if you do swap to a dado but don't swap to the dado cartridge? Short answer is no, it won't turn on if you have an undersized blade in with the regular cartridge. It has some kind of hall effect sensor that detects the blade tips, which has to be a certain distance from the cartridge. The saw comes with a calibration tool for check that distance.
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Oct 26, 2021 19:15
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I have a sawstop. You definitely need the dado cartridge to run a dado blade. Changing the cartridge is as quick as it looks and i'll gnaw off my own arm before I go back to the absolute waste of time it was the make any sort of changes on the contractor saws I used to have.
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Oct 26, 2021 20:10
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meatpimp posted:Took me about a month, but I finally got to the logging company. What a cool place, with so much awesome material. You did pretty drat good; in my neck of the woods, I'd be paying that much just for the walnut. Even hard maple is going for $7.50/bf here, which has kind of had a chilling effect on my own bench plans. Gotta admit, I'm a little jealous.
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Oct 26, 2021 21:15
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Hell yeah $300 for that is a steal in my neck of the woods. Jelly as gently caress right now
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Oct 26, 2021 21:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I was looking at SawStop saws because maybe the motor on my Unisaw is fried or about to be fried so I'm window shopping and dreaming of new saws, and I notice they have different brake cartridges for using a dado stack vs. regular blade. Youtube made swapping between the two seem about as as quick and simple as removing a riving knife-is that actually the case? Will the saw still run if you do swap to a dado but don't swap to the dado cartridge? yeah the brake's held in by a little latch and some pins it slides in on, it's all like half a foot deeper into the guts of the saw so it takes a little fiddling but once you've got the hang of it it's very simple. The saw won't start if the gap between blade and brake isn't roughly the right size, you can temporarily disable the sensors if you really need to (for cutting aluminum and stuff) but honestly it's about as much of a hassle as just changing the brake
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Oct 26, 2021 21:59
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Rufio posted:Hell yeah $300 for that is a steal in my neck of the woods. Jelly as gently caress right now Nice place in the middle of nowhere, Midwest, USA. I guess it has some perks. I'm going to be making some salt cellars for holiday sales. If that goes well, I'll be buying in larger quantities. Red oak workbench top is going to be one of the next projects. I want to get the design down, but I can design the bench while I prep and work the top. Lots of work to do. 
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Oct 26, 2021 22:05
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If you're in the market for a new table saw, also take a look at Marius Hornberger's recent video reviewing his sliding table saw 6 years down the road. (Conclusion: "It's great, but wish I could have gotten the larger model.")
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Oct 26, 2021 22:08
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nielsm posted:If you're in the market for a new table saw, also take a look at Marius Hornberger's recent video reviewing his sliding table saw 6 years down the road. (Conclusion: "It's great, but wish I could have gotten the larger model.")
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Oct 26, 2021 23:52
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My email tells me the veritas seconds sale is up at Lee valley at noon edt tomorrow. God help my wallet.
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Oct 27, 2021 03:51
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First hand plane arrived today. New Stanley No. 5 (yes, I know). Current plan: 1. Sharpen blade 2. Check flatness of sole on friend's surface plate - what's a good way to check this? I was going to do it like with machine tools (blue up surface plate, place component on blue, remove, stamp onto paper to check for high spots) What else?
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Oct 27, 2021 07:00
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks, I hadn't seen him before but it's great to see one all apart. I'd loooooooove to have a slider and if I built cabinets all day I could probably justify the space and money, but I think for the time being I'm stuck with the Unisaw. Still awaiting diagnosis from the motor shop but I found a guy with some spare motors for $300 if it comes to that. I am always amazed at the expensive motor market you guys seem to have. 300 for a new motor, sure ok but it sounds like you're talking 2nd hand? I've picked working induction motors from 0.25 to 4kw for the average price of 25 euros a pop over the years. When I see one I often buy it, just in case.
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Oct 27, 2021 11:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks, I hadn't seen him before but it's great to see one all apart. I'd loooooooove to have a slider and if I built cabinets all day I could probably justify the space and money, but I think for the time being I'm stuck with the Unisaw. Still awaiting diagnosis from the motor shop but I found a guy with some spare motors for $300 if it comes to that. If you’re near Maine, I’ll give you one for free, as long as you take them all.
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Oct 27, 2021 12:03
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HolHorsejob posted:First hand plane arrived today. New Stanley No. 5 (yes, I know). Current plan: Usual way to check flatness of the sole is to scribble across it with a Sharpie and then run it on sandpaper until the lines erase evenly.
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Oct 27, 2021 12:11
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HolHorsejob posted:First hand plane arrived today. New Stanley No. 5 (yes, I know). Current plan: Wouldn't hurt to check for square sides.
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Oct 27, 2021 12:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:I am always amazed at the expensive motor market you guys seem to have. 300 for a new motor, sure ok but it sounds like you're talking 2nd hand? I've picked working induction motors from 0.25 to 4kw for the average price of 25 euros a pop over the years. When I see one I often buy it, just in case. New/used normal motors still aren't exactly cheap here, but this is a discontinued funky motor with funky mounts that was only made for this saw. LightRailTycoon posted:If you’re near Maine, I’ll give you one for free, as long as you take them all.
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Oct 27, 2021 13:41
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SimonSays posted:You can use a wooden plane just as well as a metal one for everything you need to do, those will be a lot easier to find in CH or DE. Metal planes are more common in the anglosphere, but there are some Czech and German manufacturers of medium-value metal planes still. OK ! Got a wooden one from the brico for 20 francs  The blade looks kinda lovely. I need to check out some guides to setting it up. 
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Oct 27, 2021 14:38
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