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Arsenic Lupin posted:When the good Stanley planes were new, would the buyer have had to carefully even out the sole plate and sharpen the blade, or would they have arrived ready to go? Apocryphally among the old timers I've met (I've never found direct evidence to back it up), metal Stanley plane bodies came ready to use; accessibility was the company priority, and your average consumer didn't necessarily have ready access to the equipment needed to make adjustments to a big hunk of metal like that. The blades came mostly ready, but still required final sharpening, since the effort to get the final edge was/is time-consuming, and the shipping process was likely to ruin it anyway. While there's probably a fair amount of truth to that, and QA was definitely tight (I've been shown one that had a manufacturer stamped "imperfect" on the side, though I couldn't see any critical flaws; as an aside, they apparently had a manufacturer seconds market), it's also likely that the crap ones just didn't last for 100+ years, and got ditched along the way. Pollyanna posted:I'm interested in making my own coffee table with a butcher block like this. The top is pretty easy, but I'm unsure of how to attach legs to it. Is it as simple as just buying four of these, or is there something else I'd need as well? Edit: and if I need something, should I trust something I get off of Amazon or do I need to go to a specialty store or something? There's a ton of ways to add legs, though those legs are probably the most newbie-friendly (don't use hairpin legs). Leperflesh covered the most important mechanical aspects, I'll just add that you'll need threaded inserts in the underside of your tabletop for those particular legs to screw into. Fortunately, they're as easy to place as drilling a hole and screwing them in with a hex key, maybe with some epoxy or thick CA glue as insurance. Amazon is mostly fine for bits and bobs, just pay attention to the reviews like you would for everything else you'd buy on there.
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Oct 29, 2021 20:05
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Yeah, I'm definitely not equipped for actually doing any cutting or sawing.  Ideally, something that's doable with just a drill and some screws since the butcher block is literally just a slab of wood and there's no complicated bits and bobs on it.I was originally looking at a more easily installable set like this, but I hoped I could get the same effect by paying less for only a bit more work.  It looks like either metal plates or mounting blocks would work, are they compatible with butcher blocks?Also, apparently you need to wipe these blocks down with oil or something. Is any random finishing oil at Home Depot good enough?
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Oct 29, 2021 20:09
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If you look up steel pipe legs you can do something similar. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pipe-De...GLEGS/307761164 That kind of thing but piecemeal off the shelf might be cheaper, and you can likely buy most everything you need off the shelf and put it together in the living room floor with no tools. I don't know what 1 foot pieces of black steel pipe go for, but it'll probably be cheaper than what you linked off Amazon, plus if you see something crazy you love on Google, it's not more complicated, just more expensive. For oil, it depends on if you want serious waterproofish protection or just a little color and a food-safe kind of finish. If you want the former, I'd go with a semi gloss poly if just the latter a $2 bottle of drugstore mineral oil.
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Oct 29, 2021 20:19
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Pollyanna posted:Yeah, I'm definitely not equipped for actually doing any cutting or sawing. If I wanted to do this as easy as possible with as few tools as possible, I'd use those replacement sofa/furniture legs that home depot sells - they come with both parts of the hardware, so you just drill out a hole, hammer the threaded insert in, and then screw in the leg. I can vouch that they're strong enough, and looking on home depot's site for "furniture leg" gives tons of options. As a bonus, many of the wooden ones are unfinished, and there are a ton of metal screw-on ones that come in all sorts of colours.
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Oct 29, 2021 20:25
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Well, ideally, this would stand the test of time. I have no problem installing metal plates or mounting blocks if they make it harder to break my table. Not looking to go fancy, though. So I’ll grab some legs and plates (and a new drill) along with the block!
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Oct 29, 2021 20:58
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How do people make doors that don't warp? This is partly a question about the craft in a theoretical sense, part I have a weird width door that I would like to replace some day. That post about racking in tables makes me think a lot of woodworking "problems" that I don't even know about are already solved. e: This is also probably the sort of thing covered in a book somewhere, but googling just brings up literal tutorials on door making which isn't exactly right. Serenade fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Oct 29, 2021 |
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Oct 29, 2021 21:10
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Serenade posted:How do people make doors that don't warp? Most solid-wood doors are frame-and-panel construction, which means you have a panel (or a bunch of panels, the door in the room I'm in right now has 5) of solid wood floating in dadoes in the frame pieces. The panel is free to expand and contract across the grain from seasonal changes, but it'll resist cupping/twisting. The panels are usually significantly thinner than the frame, so it reduces weight too. Doors meant to be painted can also be made partially or entirely out of sheet goods that don't expand/contract in any meaningful way. And then you have hollow-core doors which are basically a frame of low-grade lumber covered in a cheap laminate and infilled with corrugated cardboard.
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Oct 29, 2021 21:19
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For doors, frame and panel construction. Ideally using quartersawn wood for frame, or at least a fairly stable species.
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Oct 29, 2021 21:21
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Serenade posted:How do people make doors that don't warp?  This is much more stable than using a 5" wide x 1.75" thick board that might bow or warp along it's grain. If 5, 1"x 1.25" pieces of wood are glued together, the grain of each individual piece is kept straight by all the other pieces which probably all want to warp in slightly different directions. A 1/4" thick veneer on each face keeps things even flatter. Cheaper doors/interior doors might have the inner staves be made out of pine or some less expensive wood and only use oak or whatever on the veneer, but good quality exterior doors will have the inner stave core be the same material as the outer skin. Solid interior doors also use staves made of particleboard or some other engineered wood product that will stay very flat over time. The visible surface is then veneered with real wood for stained stuff or MDF/Masonite for painted. Old hand-made doors partially keep the wide stiles/rails flat by running tenons all the way through the vertical stiles.  Because the grain of the rail is at 90 degrees to the grain of the stile, they both help to keep each other from cupping across the width of each member, but they can still bow or twist along the length.
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Oct 29, 2021 21:46
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Could you just as well use 3 pieces laminated in that sort of M&T method on those doors to keep them from twising then? I have an odd sized entry door that will need replacing in the next couple years and it tends to get water on it when it rains (so all the time). The old door wasn't maintained well and is starting to decompose. Maybe I'll just end up refinishing it, but it might be nice to just redo the whole door so that I won't have to worry about water coming in anymore.
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Oct 29, 2021 22:05
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Jhet posted:Could you just as well use 3 pieces laminated in that sort of M&T method on those doors to keep them from twising then? I have an odd sized entry door that will need replacing in the next couple years and it tends to get water on it when it rains (so all the time). The old door wasn't maintained well and is starting to decompose. Maybe I'll just end up refinishing it, but it might be nice to just redo the whole door so that I won't have to worry about water coming in anymore.
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Oct 29, 2021 23:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Probably? Laminations are *usually* more stable than solid stuff, especially if you pay attention to alternating the growth rings and any warp. Three pieces edge-glued to make up the width is probably better than three flat stile/rail-wide pieces face glued to make up the thickness. I think another advantage of the laminated staves being covered with veneer is that it exposes fewer glue joints to the weather, but I dunno how much that really matters, especially if it’s well painted. I think a 4’ overhang is recommended above an exterior door? Yeah, I have about a 6" overhang on the door. It's not ideal, and there's not a good way to fix it either without redoing the roof on this hallway addition. I may try it anyway. I can seal it like it's going on a boat, but mostly I just need something that I can maintain. This one would need to be completely sanded down and that might not even help with the discoloration on the bottom 1/3 of it. It's an idea at least, and this way I can build something that can match the style of the original 100 year old door on the front of the house.
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Oct 29, 2021 23:25
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Pollyanna posted:Yeah, I'm definitely not equipped for actually doing any cutting or sawing. I'm in the process of finishing up a somewhat more involved folding table out of a chunk of butcher's block. You may want to check the individual butcher's block you're working with if possible. A lot of them have only one finished face, so they underside will be somewhat uneven with each little glued up bit somewhat misaligned from the rest. This is probably fine if you're screwing on some cheap legs mounted to a steel plate, but you'd want some way to flatten at least part of it if you're, say, gluing to the bottom face. For the finish, it depends. What do you want it to look like? How patient are you willing to be? How much resistance to daily life does it need to have? I made a coffee table last year with a hickory top. It was used more or less as the kitchen table at my last house and served admirably. All kinds of saucy/oily/colorful stuff spilled on it, and it cleaned up no problem. I gave it 3 coats of water-based polyurethane varnish, with about a month of curing time in my basement workshop. It definitely looks and feels like a thick polyurethane finish. This is probably the far end of the effort/time spectrum. e: Stumpy Nubs and Steve Ramsey have some good videos laying out the spectrum of options for finishing, a simple youtube search should kick up good options from them.
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Oct 30, 2021 00:21
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Those are some pretty cool and comprehensive answers, thanks. And it makes a lot of sense. Explains why a lot of doors have that distinct boxy look: the thicker stiles and rails to keep it a square and a thinner panel (or mdf) to make it an actual solid door. Hollow core as well, some bare minimum but structurally sound "door" with enough space to dress up and look good.
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Oct 30, 2021 01:06
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My lovely woodworking self is on month after month of putting off working on a project because I'm convinced I'm going to gently caress it up horribly. Very frustrating. I'm committing to spending all morning tomorrow doing it right and the thought gives me anxiety.
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Oct 30, 2021 03:45
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My lovely woodworking self is on month after month of putting off working on a project because I'm convinced I'm going to gently caress it up horribly. Relax. You'll gently caress it up horribly no matter how hard you try to do it right. There's no point in worrying about it. You'll gently caress it up, then you'll fix it and you'll be a better woodworker for it. In the end, no one will know the difference.
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Oct 30, 2021 03:49
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My lovely woodworking self is on month after month of putting off working on a project because I'm convinced I'm going to gently caress it up horribly. wood literally grows on trees, you can always fix it
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Oct 30, 2021 03:57
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My lovely woodworking self is on month after month of putting off working on a project because I'm convinced I'm going to gently caress it up horribly. Just do it and if you gently caress up than don't that again next time. You will never become confident in your skills if you don't practice. This is why I only work on wood I find in the trash. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust
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Oct 30, 2021 04:08
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I bought a raft of seconds 6 panel pine doors a few years back to upgrade in my home from hollow core slabs. Beautiful doors, $25 apiece, each one had some minor ding like a glue joint squeezout or something that was totally fixable. I discovered they were particle board core with veneer vacuumed on the stiles, rails, and panels. And pricey, unless damaged. As much as I hate particle board, I like these doors. 
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Oct 30, 2021 04:21
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Hand plane is here. I've taken it apart, given it a cursory cleaning, and given the blade its first hone (quick hone to 25/30 degrees @ 1200 grit, will give it some TLC later.) So far, the only thing that's obviously jacked is the threaded rod that's holding the knob is bent to poo poo (inconsequential?) Question for assessing flatness of sole: I haven't had a chance to head to my friend's place and check it on the surface plate. I gave it a quick check by attempting to rock it on a piece of dead flat float glass and I can't discern any rocking or anything. Does this put any useful bounds on how flat the sole is, or do you have to go a bit deeper to find out (sharpie/hone, check on a surface plate, etc.)? HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 06:55
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HolHorsejob posted:Hand plane is here. I've taken it apart, given it a cursory cleaning, and given the blade its first hone (quick hone to 25/30 degrees @ 1200 grit, will give it some TLC later.) So far, the only thing that's obviously jacked is the threaded rod that's holding the knob is bent to poo poo (inconsequential?) It's good that it doesn't rock, but I have restored about a half-dozen planes now, all of which needed work on the sole, and none of which would have rocked in that way. A surface plate is "machinist flat" and you do not need to get the sole of a woodworker's plane that flat. If you have a thing that is "pretty flat" to a non-machinist's standard, you can use it plus a sheet of sandpaper. "Pretty flat" includes things like a pane of glass or a cut stone tile or the machined surface of a table saw or bandsaw table. Things that are "not flat enough" include the tops of typical wooden furniture, thin plastic (too bendy), ceramic tile, or most other random surfaces in your home. Affix the sandpaper to your "pretty flat" surface. You can do this with peel-and-stick sandpaper, or with spray adhesive, or just clamp the corners down, etc. Double-sided sticky tape will work too, but you should treat areas just above pieces of tape as "not totally flat" although it's probably still pretty close to "pretty flat", because sticky tape is only generally between about 25 and 500 micrometers. If you have some on the thin side of that range it's probably thin enough. I've worked a bit with tape and found it to be OK, but I prefer to use rolls of sticky-backed sandpaper nowadays, and before I had any, I used a little spritz of spray adhesive and that worked well. Anyway do that setup. Then get a marker pen and scribble on the bottom of the plane. You don't need to totally coat the surface, just scribble a bit. Make sure the blade is withdrawn from the mouth, but leave the plane assembled otherwise. Run it back and forth across the sandpaper a few times. Then inspect the bottom. You'll see from the pattern sanded into the ink where the "high spots" were actually making contact, and where convex or low spots were raised too high above the surface to make contact. It is not necessary for 100% of the sole of the plane to make contact. However, if there's a significant hollow across the middle of the plane (very common with worn, old planes) that needs to be flattened. Think about how the plane travels over wood, both a wide plank and a narrow edge of a plank. You need the plane to present the same amount of blade no matter which way you run it across the wood. A bit of a low spot just behind the mouth is OK. A bit of a low spot near one edge is OK. A big low spot anywhere is less OK, and a low spot at the front or back or extensively along either side of the sole is bad and needs to be corrected. all of this is just an inadequate repetition of stuff like the first couple of minutes of this paul sellers video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQyjLV92224 (I would not suggest the second, "feathering" step he does here at about 4m in, it's kinda weird and I've never seen someone else do it; Mr. Sellers is a master, but I'd suggest working with your plane a bunch before doing this sort of modification.) Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 07:51
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Leperflesh posted:It's good that it doesn't rock, but I have restored about a half-dozen planes now, all of which needed work on the sole, and none of which would have rocked in that way. I need a surface I can work this thing against. The pane of glass is just barely large enough to sit the plane on lengthwise. I have a few options (cheap table saw table, granite countertop cutoff/breakoff) but I don't have a good way of assessing how flat they are. Maybe I can bring that granite slice to the surface plate with me....
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Oct 30, 2021 08:13
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I've never flattened the soles of any of my planes, new or vintage v v
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Oct 30, 2021 13:50
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My lovely woodworking self is on month after month of putting off working on a project because I'm convinced I'm going to gently caress it up horribly. If you gently caress it up then you'll learn how to do it better next time. There's also very little in woodworking that can't be fixed. You'll do great!
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Oct 30, 2021 14:03
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A granite counter offcut is more than flat enough
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Oct 30, 2021 15:13
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LightRailTycoon posted:A granite counter offcut is more than flat enough I've definitely seen them at least a few thou off, like 3 thou concavity in 2 feet or so
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Oct 30, 2021 15:36
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HolHorsejob posted:I'm in the process of finishing up a somewhat more involved folding table out of a chunk of butcher's block. You may want to check the individual butcher's block you're working with if possible. A lot of them have only one finished face, so they underside will be somewhat uneven with each little glued up bit somewhat misaligned from the rest. This is probably fine if you're screwing on some cheap legs mounted to a steel plate, but you'd want some way to flatten at least part of it if you're, say, gluing to the bottom face. Good to know, thanks! Makes me wonder if I should maybe get some slightly adjustable legs instead, in case it’s really uneven. I’ll see what kind of board I can get. quote:For the finish, it depends. What do you want it to look like? How patient are you willing to be? How much resistance to daily life does it need to have? I made a coffee table last year with a hickory top. It was used more or less as the kitchen table at my last house and served admirably. All kinds of saucy/oily/colorful stuff spilled on it, and it cleaned up no problem. I gave it 3 coats of water-based polyurethane varnish, with about a month of curing time in my basement workshop. It definitely looks and feels like a thick polyurethane finish. This is probably the far end of the effort/time spectrum. I’m not in this for looks as much as I am for a cost-longevity tradeoff, so I’m not concerned with scratching it or something - that will happen no matter what. This’ll be my coffee table for a while, I hope, so durable enough to handle bumps, coffee mugs, moves, possible scratches, and long-term medium-weight objects on top. Failing that, some way to layer it with a durable material. As long as it doesn’t get wet and start harboring bacteria (or worse, rot) then I’m happy. Could just slather it in mineral oil, could do a single coat of something stronger. But I’m looking at the low-mid range of the spectrum, I’m no woodworker. quote:Stumpy Nubs and Steve Ramsey have some good videos laying out the spectrum of options for finishing, a simple youtube search should kick up good options from them. Sweet, I’ll take a look
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Oct 30, 2021 16:36
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Pollyanna posted:
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Oct 30, 2021 16:39
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Kind of an odd question about filling gaps. My very imperfect hand cut box joints for my salt box obviously resulted in several gaps. I filled them from the outside with shavings from my offcuts and it's satisfactory enough for me, but there are plenty of visible gaps from the inside. This doesn't matter at all aesthetically, but I'd like to see if I can fill them with something so salt crystals don't get stuck in them or maybe even make their way outside of the box. Is there any kind of food safe silicone that I could squirt in there with a needle small syringe or applicator? I suppose I could just put wood glue in them, but I'd like to be able to find a way to get something right in there. I do have some needle syringes I have for oiling things. Any suggestions?
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Oct 30, 2021 17:22
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nosleep posted:Kind of an odd question about filling gaps. My very imperfect hand cut box joints for my salt box obviously resulted in several gaps. I filled them from the outside with shavings from my offcuts and it's satisfactory enough for me, but there are plenty of visible gaps from the inside. This doesn't matter at all aesthetically, but I'd like to see if I can fill them with something so salt crystals don't get stuck in them or maybe even make their way outside of the box. Epoxy is good for gap-filling. It dries clear and is almost invisible in most cases. It's also easy to sand and takes finish well.
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Oct 30, 2021 17:30
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Thanks for the feedback, gents. I did gently caress it up, doing something real stupid. I'll see about loading up some pics for illustration so you can laugh at me. So, I'm making a mortises for my table. The idea is to attach the apron via mortise and tenon to the legs. The legs dovetail onto the end aprons. The end apron dovetail slots into the tabletop. So far so good, here's my dry fit for the legs:  So, off I go and buy my first forstner bits. I got a full suite of 'em from Lowes and I go about setting up my first cuts.    So far so good! Now, how do I get rid of the middle bit? The width on the originals is 1 1/4" so I thought "well, let's leave a bit of wiggle room and use the 1"..." So I throw the 1" forstner bit on my hand drill like an idiot and obviously it fucks off on me.  So I left it settle on the bench for a week while I sulked and then came back and chopped it out with some chisels like I should have done in the first place. Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 18:29
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Deteriorata posted:Epoxy is good for gap-filling. It dries clear and is almost invisible in most cases. It's also easy to sand and takes finish well. I syringed a bunch of epoxy into all the little beetle holes and checking in an ambrosia maple slice I was turning into a cutting board last year. It worked pretty well, though I discovered pretty quickly that it was too thick to push through anything smaller than an 18 gauge catheter. I also discovered that the ambrosia streaks around those holes are super porous when the epoxy started sweating through them as I was pushing it. At least they're stabilized? It probably won't matter for filling gaps on the non-visible side box joints, but it took some pretty high polishing grits with some wet-to-dry paper to get that glassy look, which you can see on the bit on the outer edge I had to fill in/stabilize.  
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Oct 30, 2021 18:36
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I got some time today to put the passed down lathe together and get a proper look at it. I'd not seen it together before and it has been sat in a storage box for the last 15 years in a garage by the sea so I wasn't sure what I was getting. The good. It still runs, everything appears to be in good condition and it came with a bunch of tools that I don't need to buy. The bad. Its a Hobbymat Variant MD120, which were sold in the UK for a very brief period in the 1970's. This lathe is nearly 50 years old and still using its original motor as best I can tell. http://www.lathes.co.uk/hobbymat/page6.html This is bad because it was missing all of the attachments except the 4 jaw chuck, and the spindle size is a 30mm 1.5mm thread which is not common at all. I can only find one brand that make things that will fit onto it which is by Patriot and megabucks so I'm going to have to really think about if I want to spend that cash to get this working. I have managed to find one other adaptor which is this: https://www.charnwood.net/products/product/m30-x-3-5mm-exert-for-viper-nexus-chucks-viperin/category_pathway-174 However it specifies a 30mm x 3.5mm thread so I don't think I can use that. A real shame because then I'd get access to all the standard chucks/adaptor bits. If anyone has any ideas I'd very much welcome them as I'm having serious thoughts about just binning this off and buying a new one for not much more money that I'd spend on the Patriot chuck system and attachments to make this useable.
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Oct 30, 2021 19:08
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Price it out and see. If you can't fab replacement parts yourself or they aren't common, this sounds like an endless fetch quest that will serve only to keep you wasting time and money.
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Oct 30, 2021 20:46
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I made a firewood store under the eaves at the front of my house.  I did my best at setting up the wooden plane but can't really get it to work well. I think I'll probably get a metal one to be on safer ground.
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Oct 30, 2021 21:04
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serious gaylord posted:This is bad because it was missing all of the attachments except the 4 jaw chuck, and the spindle size is a 30mm 1.5mm thread which is not common at all. I can only find one brand that make things that will fit onto it which is by Patriot and megabucks so I'm going to have to really think about if I want to spend that cash to get this working. You're correct that 30mm x 3.5mm won't work at all on 1.5mm threads, or vise-versa, and re-threading to a standard size would be as much of an issue as getting an adapter. Unless you know someone with a metal lathe who could make a custom adapter (easily doable over a lunch hour with an offcut from the scrap bin, all you need are single point threading tools for internal and external threads that some hobbyists don't have) you may be in for a bunch of hunting unicorn parts. The other possibility is replacing the entire headstock spindle with one sporting a standard thread profile. That motor placement in particular is just begging to fill itself with shavings, though, so it may be a better long-term option to find something more available.
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Oct 30, 2021 22:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Danish oil is probably what you want. Mineral oil is terrible unless it's an actual cutting board. It never dries and will bleed up into anything you leave on the coffee table. No oil finish is going to provide any protection against scratches or scrapes, but they will help prevent stains from spilled liquids etc. Mineral oil isn't as bad as everyone says, I ended up with pre-oiled blocks as workbench tops and they're not like making my stuff oily and I've oiled/beeswaxed them a ton. It's not worth freaking out about if you come into a pre oiled block but definitely suboptimal though for like nice furniture because it means you're hosed for giving it another finish later.
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Oct 30, 2021 22:24
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I am considering trimming an oak cabinet to make a new fridge fit. I have a local guy who can make me new doors and color match at reasonable price. 1. Remove doors 2. Measure 3. Clamp a straight edge to the cabinet 4. Measure again 5. Remove/cut bottom rail 6. Cut Center Stile 6. Remove bottom/shelf (I see this potentially being a pita) 7. Raise (maybe replace) Bottom/shelf 8. Trim stiles 9. Figure out how of the original material I can reuse and cut replacement pieces 10. Put back together This is a reasonable thing to attempt right?
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Oct 31, 2021 04:23
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Unless it's something special, buying a new cabinet that can match is probably way easier and less of a pain. If it is special, this sounds fraught.
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Oct 31, 2021 05:23
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The threaded rod for the knob on my new stanley no 5 is bent to poo poo and needs to be replaced. Apparently it's some goofy specialty thread (12-20?). Would it be feasible to just drill out the threaded hole in the sole and retap it to a thread that isn't stupid so I can use standard hardware? HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Oct 31, 2021 |
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Oct 31, 2021 07:31
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