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moths posted:Warlord just announced Epic Waterloo, and it looks pretty loving great except that you only get one side in either starter and it's a weird scale.
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Nov 3, 2021 16:35
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90s Cringe Rock posted:I can't see anywhere where it says what "epic battle scale" actually is, but I'm assuming it's like 9mm or 13mm. No mentioning in the news afaik, but if it's the same as the ACW "epic scale" they call it 13.5mm but it's also matching some older 12mm scales (like Kallistra) well.
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Nov 3, 2021 16:40
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Class Warcraft posted:A $200-300 resin printer can put out models with quality as least as good as most professional mini companies these days. The bigger challenge, at least for historicals, is a lack of models. This is slowly improving, but many historical periods don't have much available for them at the moment. Conversion parts for tank kits. Is printing a whole tank out of the question?
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Nov 3, 2021 16:52
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Ensign Expendable posted:Conversion parts for tank kits. Is printing a whole tank out of the question? It's not out of the question, especially if it's broken down into small parts, but it can be a pain in the rear end. Conversion parts are totally doable though.
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Nov 3, 2021 16:53
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moths posted:Warlord just announced Epic Waterloo, and it looks pretty loving great except that you only get one side in either starter and it's a weird scale. I was thinking that this box was going to be my entry into historicals, but the full buy-in being $280 is WAY too much for someone who just wants to play kitchen games with their partner.
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Nov 3, 2021 17:16
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The ACW box looks like a way better entry point there, if you just want to get into the abstract of "historicals". TBH you're probably best off finding a period that interests you and then picking a scale to do it in. A lot of terrain will work at any scale and for any period, but a lot just plain won't.
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Nov 3, 2021 17:53
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I'd add that Napoleonic is the deep end, and why not get started with something like Raven Feast Vikings?
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Nov 3, 2021 17:55
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Ensign Expendable posted:Conversion parts for tank kits. Is printing a whole tank out of the question? You can absolutely print tanks. I printed up two of them in a weekend for a tournament a little while back.
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Nov 3, 2021 17:56
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Ensign Expendable posted:A number of you use 3D printers, right? I was thinking of getting a small one, how good is modern 3D printing for models? I would mostly be working in 1:35 scale. Admittedly I haven't looked much at scale model stuff for 3D printing (mostly wargaming stuff that's pretty much a one piece or "easy to build" sort of print), but based on things I've seen during various searches on Thingiverse, Cults3D, etc., there are certainly 3D printable scale model kits out there. And as others have already said, there's plenty of conversion parts for existing scale model kits as well. And always remember you can scale things up or down in regards to 3D printing, too. There are pros and cons associated with changing a model's scale, of course; but if you find, say, a 28mm figure you like the look of, you can always do the math to figure out the percentage needed to scale it up to 1/35 scale.
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Nov 3, 2021 18:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:Conversion parts for tank kits. Is printing a whole tank out of the question? Absolutely not. My 40k imperial guard army has 6 printed tanks, about 1/56 Tiger sized. A full sized tank at that scale is 2-3 prints on a average resin printer and will run you like 10$ worth of resin. Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 3, 2021 |
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Nov 3, 2021 18:55
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Every historical players should start with Saga.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:04
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I play countertop CoC with my partner, it's her first foray into tiny toy mans and it's a lot of fun. She already was a painter and is already better than me at painting the models. I'm not jealous at all. NOPE.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:22
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Printing a whole tank as one piece sucks, printing a tank in a few smaller pieces also sucks, but far less. If you can find files that let you print it in "chunks", I highly recommend it. Note that I had worked with 28mm models, so stuff like 15mm or smaller might be a totally different experience.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:22
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Every historical players should start with Saga. I don't think I can agree with this at all. There are like 20 game terms you have to learn just to understand what your battle board even does, and then lots of situations come up mid-game about when you can use certain abilities and how they interact with each other. I end usually end up confused at least once a game, and I've played SAGA at least ten times. If I were introducing someone to historical wargaming I'd probably start with like, a skirmish-level cowboy game or one of the Osprey blue book series.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:41
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Class Warcraft posted:If I were introducing someone to historical wargaming I'd probably start with like, a skirmish-level cowboy game or one of the Osprey blue book series. Admittedly, the battle board stuff can be a bit much but otherwise the game isn't too complex. I think something like Vikings has a pretty broad appeal so I suspect it would be an easier thing to get Historical Curious people to try than 6mm Napoleonics. Caring about a time period is a pretty huge part of historicals, way more so than a particular system.
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Nov 3, 2021 20:05
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Printing a whole tank as one piece sucks, printing a tank in a few smaller pieces also sucks, but far less. If you can find files that let you print it in "chunks", I highly recommend it. Note that I had worked with 28mm models, so stuff like 15mm or smaller might be a totally different experience. Oh for sure, I should clarify that my "one piece" tanks were 15mm or 1/100 scale ones. I absolutely wouldn't try to print a 1/56 scale or larger tank as one piece.
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Nov 3, 2021 20:06
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Every historical players should start with Saga. i tried this with some friends many years ago who were warham players and they bounced off it, said it didn't "feel" like historicals lol. we ended up playing lasalle with a couple brigades and an artillery battery each instead
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Nov 3, 2021 20:23
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Class Warcraft posted:I don't think I can agree with this at all. There are like 20 game terms you have to learn just to understand what your battle board even does, and then lots of situations come up mid-game about when you can use certain abilities and how they interact with each other. I end usually end up confused at least once a game, and I've played SAGA at least ten times. I think Lion Rampant and their relatives are a good starting point if you want something that looks a bit like armies but is much more straight forward to wrap your head around as a complete beginner. As for napoleonics, sharp practice is what drew me in to 28mm. But if you want big army stuff, 6mm is not a bad idea. hot cocoa on the couch posted:i tried this with some friends many years ago who were warham players and they bounced off it, said it didn't "feel" like historicals lol. we ended up playing lasalle with a couple brigades and an artillery battery each instead I get that. Saga pretty much splits our mostly historical local community in half, with some liking it a lot and other really not liking it specifically because it feels more like a historically skinned board game than a traditional historical wargame. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Nov 3, 2021 |
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Nov 3, 2021 20:57
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The thing about SAGA is that the abilities that let you react during your opponents turn can be hard for people coming from IGOUGO systems to wrap their heads around. If you don't understand how both your battleboard and your opponent's work then you're at a huge disadvantage. I've been tabled at least once by my brother while hardly scratching his force because he understood how to use his board to counter/cancel my moves while I didn't. I think SAGA is pretty cool, but I feel like it has a definite learning curve to it. I like Lion Rampant, Pikeman's Lament, The Men Who Would Be Kings, or Rebels & Patriots as a decent starting ruleset (they're all very similar mechanically). The actions you can take are pretty straightforward (move, shoot, melee, rally) and there aren't a ton of modifiers so you don't need to check the rulebook constantly.  I recently ran a 500+ model Isandlwana game using The Men Who Would Be Kings with 6 players. Only took 4.5 hours to play despite me being the only person who had ever used the rules before and I think we only had to reference the rulebook like 2-3 times. Class Warcraft fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Nov 3, 2021 |
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Nov 3, 2021 22:06
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Class Warcraft posted:
That's the good stuff, hell yes. Who won?
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Nov 3, 2021 22:25
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Cessna posted:That's the good stuff, hell yes. It was pretty close, but the British "won" when a handful of British survivors successfully fended off a final Zulu push on the camp itself in the last turn. This, combined with a successful repulse of the Zulu right horn, gave them enough VPs to claim victory. The British still lost about 80% of their men in the battle and the largely-intact Zulu left horn would have overrun them in the next couple turns had they not been too busy assegaing all of Col. Durnford's troops to get within reach of the VPs at the end.
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Nov 3, 2021 22:56
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Every historical players should start with Saga. Alternatively: What a Tanker!
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Nov 3, 2021 23:04
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Endman posted:Alternatively: What a Tanker! I actually have a copy of that I got as a gift last year, I really should get around to playing it.
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Nov 4, 2021 00:07
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I have the Epic Battles ACW box and it is really nice. I am working on clipping everything so I can prime & paint this winter. I will say the book that came with it is extremely small. I ordered the hardcover and Glory Hallelujah! and I am glad I did, they are much nicer.
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Nov 4, 2021 01:33
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Endman posted:Alternatively: What a Tanker! I was going to mention this one, it's simple/fun enough that my non-nerd spouse and seven year old could play effectively (kid even won with some lucky rolling). Even my four year old was sufficiently engaged by rolling dice and moving stuff around to get a kill ring.
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Nov 4, 2021 02:26
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picked this up: https://www.hexterraintoolkit.com/ for making some scratch built hex terrain for use with bolt action and maybe battletech/alpha strike. anyone have any experience with it? dude has loads of good tutorial videos on how to use it and plenty of convincing examples of what it can make.
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Nov 4, 2021 18:32
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quote:Your finished hexes will be 100mm (about 4") from corner to opposite corner. Looks cool though. Hoping you post some results.
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Nov 4, 2021 19:00
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90s Cringe Rock posted:measuring the hexes wrong. is this a reference to something? corner to corner is the conventional measurement of a hex's width both because it is the widest dimension, and because it is exactly double the length of one side of the hex. measuring a hex using the apothem/short diagonal makes the math all wacky
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Nov 4, 2021 19:08
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I'm not sure it's possible to measure hexes wrong as long as you state the particular dimension you've chosen. 100mm in any dimension is way bigger than BattleTech uses though, so be aware of that.
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Nov 4, 2021 19:31
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i probably won't play actual old school battletech, just the modern/streamlined alpha strike version. i do have a plan for easy subdivision of the hexes, because the major diagonal and side length are nice round numbers, they subdivide into 50 mm and 25 mm hexes relatively easily. i don't want to put a lot of work into that though, because my goal is modular terrain, not an actual hex-grid map. i played battletech once and while it was neat, it's a lot better when a computer is handling all the work. alpha strike is more my cup of tea when it comes to putting minis down on the table
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Nov 4, 2021 19:40
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Yeah you definitely don't need hexes at all for that so, and it works out at roughly what the scale is for that so that's kind of cool. Just try not start using them to plan ranges I guess?
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Nov 4, 2021 20:05
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:is this a reference to something? corner to corner is the conventional measurement of a hex's width both because it is the widest dimension, and because it is exactly double the length of one side of the hex. measuring a hex using the apothem/short diagonal makes the math all wacky
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Nov 4, 2021 20:07
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90s Cringe Rock posted:Face to face is the measurement I've seen used. Corner to corner means measuring centre to centre is weird! that's true, i didn't consider that since there is no practical way to measure to the center of a hex (without a post as a datum or something, at least). i've never used hexes in wargaming, just thinking of how to construct them with my engineer/math brain, so those considerations are noted!
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Nov 4, 2021 20:17
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There's even less way to do it with circular bases but some games still try. Just accept that measurements are fuzzy and you probably don't actually care if you're playing on hexes.
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Nov 4, 2021 20:28
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Lenoon’s big ECW day So I’m phone posting this and if the pictures come out absolutely enormous please let me know and I’ll take them out and fix it. The historical group all decided on collecting English civil war stuff right before lockdown so instead of having lots of games leading up to this one we all just dived in with no clue how the game worked.  So here's my lot, the Derbyshire Trained Band, described as the "most slovenly troops under parliament", and close to my heart as a Derbyshire lad myself. Functionally they broke down into two pike, two shot, some commanded shot and a tiny little dragoon unit. Over half of this was painted in 24 hours. They're absolutely on the wrong spacing and size of bases, but ive since fixed that. The battle started with light and mounted troops arriving first - any light cav or commanded shot. In most cases though this basically meant disordered troops loitering around doing nothing on the edges of the board. From turn 2 HUGE amounts of royalist cavalry was sprinting around the board knocking the living poo poo out of us parliamentarians.  Tbh I think by turn three we were mainly just chatting about the rules and drinking pints, helped by the very civilised pre game sherry we'd had  you can see at the top of the board the royalist cavalry sweeping all before them while our pike blocks started to suffer under cannon.  when we did come to push of pike, the scottish contingent (paid mercenaries of course) were poised to hand the royalists a kicking, but the game halted for a spirited discussion of what kind of rules we were using because at this point we'd been playing for quite a while and the beers were starting to kick in At that point we just kind of ended, and looked at each other's toys for a while.  Then chatted about lessons learned and next games etc. The important thing with these big games is the socialising and sheer spectacle, so the fact that my slovenly pikemen only managed to get to grips in the final turn was no worries. My lessons for next time were: Bring a cannon Bring non dragoon cavalry Storming parties are great
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Nov 4, 2021 21:22
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lenoon posted:So here's my lot, the Derbyshire Trained Band, described as the "most slovenly troops under parliament", lenoon posted:They're absolutely on the wrong spacing and size of bases, but ive since fixed that.
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Nov 4, 2021 21:33
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:that's true, i didn't consider that since there is no practical way to measure to the center of a hex (without a post as a datum or something, at least). i've never used hexes in wargaming, just thinking of how to construct them with my engineer/math brain, so those considerations are noted! Some people just uses the hexes for terrain and a ruler for distances, too. I may be coming at it from a "this is how I think d&d should do hex maps, therefore" angle.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:01
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Arquinsiel posted:Checks out. Yep, I wanted them to be looser than others but went way, way too far with it. They’re now 20mm spaced instead of 30(!) and look much better for it.
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Nov 4, 2021 23:33
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Alternatively you could have just spread the figures across more bases and gotten more bang for your painting buck! 
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Nov 4, 2021 23:50
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One man per base. Obviously.
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Nov 4, 2021 23:53
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