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fresh_cheese posted:Which tpms tool do you need to jiggle the sensors correctly when the car is in learn mode for a ‘21 wrx? I have an ATEQ Quickset. Copy the codes from the summers from the car's ECU, brought to to Subaru with the winters mounted, programmed them to the ECU, then copied it to the quickset. Pays for itself after 2 years IIRC. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Sep 30, 2021 |
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Sep 30, 2021 14:13
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I don't know much about anything but my 2020 Impreza uses 433 mhz sensors FYI.
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Sep 30, 2021 18:40
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Thanks to both
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Oct 1, 2021 01:11
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large hands posted:Yeah I just got an access port for my '20 and put the Cobb 91 octane tune on it (I use Canadian 94 octane) and the throttle and boost remap have made it an absolute joy to drive compared to the OEM firmware. I can actually use first gear in parking lots now and don't jerk off the line from a stop and then have to instantly shift up to second. It's bizarre. I'm currently in stage 3 of a 5-stage system where I throw my hands up and buy an AccessPort. That power slump around 4500 RPM is a real bummer. Around town drivability is just fine to me, since I'm rarely in boost and never above 4500 RPM, but if I ever want to goose it, it feels like a different car with different sensibilities. I probably would've bought one with the car if I hadn't had a bad experience with this kind of stuff (specifically, Cobb) in the past. They made an AccessPort for the 6th generation Civic Si, which I bought into specifically to eliminate rev hang. It worked, but their solution was some sort of aggressive fuel cut on each liftoff that starved the injectors and left me on the side of the road one day. I then switched to Hondata and self-tuned; that ran perfectly well for the next 10 years (albeit surely a little dirty!) I'm pretty sure they stopped making/selling AccessPorts for Hondas shortly after that. No clue if it was related to my issue, but maybe? I was lucky and didn't do any lasting damage. I'm certainly not boycotting the brand, as I know they are much deeper rooted into Subaru than they are into Honda, but still hesitant. Getting stranded today would suck a lot more than it did 10 years ago. Lesson learned! If you get into tuning, check all of the numbers!
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Oct 1, 2021 14:01
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I’m looking at an 08 WRX that was supposedly upgraded to a vf52. Is there a way to visually confirm this easily without any disassembly? Want thing as a project car and will mostly sit in garage / see no critical use and the seller seems very straight up so I’m just making sure it’s accurate.
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Oct 2, 2021 00:07
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A VF52 should say IHI Turbo on the compressor housing. You could also be able to snap a pic of the ID plate on the compressor housing that will tell you.
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Oct 2, 2021 00:22
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um excuse me posted:A VF52 should say IHI Turbo on the compressor housing. You could also be able to snap a pic of the ID plate on the compressor housing that will tell you. Thank you- perfect
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Oct 2, 2021 00:27
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One more question as I'm cross-shopping a 2009 WRX with it; which I know has some issues with engine failures (in fact, I had a 2009 with a failure in 2009) Is there a known VIN range for the defective engines? Cant seem to find it
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Oct 3, 2021 01:50
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I really need to get my spark plugs and wires done, I'm starting to get misfires that I'm pretty sure are because my spark plugs should have been done 10k miles ago. While I'm at it I want to do my valve cover gaskets as well because they're leaking. Are there any brands to look for or avoid as far as rubber seals for these cars? Same question with the wires, I got NGK plugs already so I might as well go with NGK wires too I guess? Also, I have a FSM but does anyone have tips or tricks for this job on a first generation Impreza?
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Oct 6, 2021 01:05
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Oct 6, 2021 03:02
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I've been noticing a slight smell of what I thought was coolant from my BRZ for a while now, but the coolant level seemed consistent so I've just been giving it a quick check about once a week. Yesterday while driving I noticed the smell was worse, and after I got home the overflow tank was pretty much empty. It was already dark out so I couldn't check much, but I could see there was some shiny liquid pooling on the undertray. I was able to get under the car today and check, and I think I found the culprit: As far as I can tell that's just a cap, and it appears to be splitting at the hose clamp. I'm hoping I can just quickly swap the cap out without draining the whole system, but I may preemptively do that just in case. The issue I'm having is I can't figure out what that port is for, or find it on a parts diagram to order a replacement for the cap. This seems to be the most relevant one as it matches the other hoses in the picture  https://parts.raffertysubaru.com/a/Subaru_2013_BRZ-20D-6MT-Limited/_54102_6030745/WATER-PUMP/Z10-035-01.html But I don't anything about a second port or a cap for it. Update: I posted this in a Facebook group as well and someone pointed out this is an auto engine. My engine was replaced at a dealership with a used engine, so I guess this is a generic cap to block off a transmission cooler line. Now I need to figure out where and what size to get a replacement one, hopefully of higher quality than whatever they used. DrChu fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 20:24
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Updates in LSD install in my LGT: Got old tranny out and found the stripped third gear.  Took new tranny apart and inspected. Looks p dece.  Installed Quaife QDH3Y, set gear mesh, set bearing preload, put back in car. I found that the passenger side axle does not go all the way in. Drivers side:  Passenger side:  Much hammering of the axle did not make it go in any further. Eventually I took the axle back out. I spoke with Quaife about it for a while, and eventually they sent me a drawing of the diff that shows the snap ring groove is actually 4mm closer to the bearing shoulder on the passenger side than the driver side when the diff is used on a 5MT (it’s 1mm closer when used in a 6MT). They had me verify that the diff meets the drawing (it does), then said that nobody else has reported this problem (  ), and offered a refund or replacement.I guess I’ll send it and hope the axle seal doesn’t leak. I think very few people have run this differential in a 5MT, and most of them are putting it in an 818 and none of those things get finished anyway.
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Oct 14, 2021 15:50
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Hey how easy is it to work on those transmissions? The one in my manual 15 WRX is starting to make some weird noises so it probably needs a rebuild. I just don't want to undo the last bolt and discover a swiss watch on the inside. Does everything more or less stay in the case half when you split it? Are special tools required for either teardown or rebuild? Are there a ton of special clearances you need to measure/shim?
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Oct 14, 2021 16:49
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um excuse me posted:Hey how easy is it to work on those transmissions? The one in my manual 15 WRX is starting to make some weird noises so it probably needs a rebuild. I just don't want to undo the last bolt and discover a swiss watch on the inside. Does everything more or less stay in the case half when you split it? Are special tools required for either teardown or rebuild? Are there a ton of special clearances you need to measure/shim? I think the VA non-STI is similar to the 5MT with another gear on it. But I’m not sure. I had the high mileage blown gearbox to practice tearing down, and I’m glad I did. Nothing in there is super complex but there are a few gotchas that are nice to practice on. Provided you split the case halves with the transmission on its left side, everything stays in place. Setting the pinion depth requires some shims, and checking backlash requires a dial indicator. Luckily I wasn’t changing the pinion location so I didn’t need the shims. There are a bunch of special tools in the service manual but I didn’t need any of them. I used a harbor freight engine stand instead of the Subaru cradle, sockets to press in seals, and I 3D printed a few other things to press bearings onto the new diff. I also used a pipe wrench to turn the sundials for setting ring position and bearing preload instead of the Subaru tool (Company 23 makes one too). If you add up the cost of sealants (15 bucks), a master gasket kit (100 bucks), fresh diff carrier bearings (160 bucks), a couple tools, plus whatever else you might need (syncros, more bearings) to replace you could get to the cost of a good used transmission instead, but I don’t know what they cost for a VA. Overall it hasn’t been too hard, but with the hassle that the Quaife has been I really would have just paid the extra money and done a 6 speed swap. And it’s not driving yet so hopefully I haven’t hosed anything up. Edit: this video has been very helpful and is worth a watch to get a feel for what’s going on: https://youtu.be/fmj1HHSxXnY i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Oct 14, 2021 |
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Oct 14, 2021 18:16
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So what you're saying is I should do an STI swap. I figure I can probably do that with DCCD controller for about $6k. Also yes, I have heard the WRX 6 speed is the previous gen trans with a 6th gear slapped on my a Subaru service tech so I'm willing to believe it. I was thinking of keeping the factory trans as a backup to the STI trans, or selling it (I'm not enough of a shithead to sell it when it needs a rebuild) But once I have the STI trans hooooo boy, it's time to get rowdy with the IAG stage 2. I want laugh at the RS, Type R and STI.
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Oct 14, 2021 18:43
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I think it depends on your goals for the car. If I wasn’t tracking my car I wouldn’t care about the LSD and just a decent used 5 speed would have been a lot easier. At 300whp the 5 speed should hold up if driven with some sympathy. I have about 2400 into the trans and diff when you factor in all the little poo poo. If I were to get a center and then rear non-viscous LSD those would each cost about 1000-1200 apiece which gets me to close to the cost of a 6 speed swap which comes with a center and rear DCCD/LSD and has the side benefit of being unbreakable. If you want to launch or track the car hard the 6 speed starts to make a lot more sense.
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Oct 14, 2021 19:15
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It used to an STH autocross car. It technically gets bumped out of that class because of emissions "defeating" equipment. The new engine has a TGV and EGR delete which makes like 3 horsepower. So basically that stuffs me into A modified if I'm reading the rules right which makes it impossible to compete. I think I can route my way into D street modified, but I'm not sure. I stopped autocross until I install an accusump to mitigate the oil starvation issue that killed the first engine. Then the trans started acting up. I'm like a solid 8k behind on repairs and insurance mods.
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Oct 15, 2021 00:38
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I've got a rebuilt 6 speed from a 08 spec.b leggy if you're near Tampa.
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Oct 15, 2021 21:26
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Spotted an Aventador SVJ parked today here in Chicago. It was a real treat to see one IRL. 900 total for the world, definitely one of the rarest cars I've seen in person so far. The only others as close would be McLarens.   I now have an unhealthy obsession with it! Doesn't help that this one has an extremely sick spec that is basically perfect. e: Even the god drat wheel weights are attached beautifully without any glue or residue, wtf. e2: Wait, I just apple+f'd 'chat' and found this thread, but it is actually Subaru. Is there an October chat thread? Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Oct 17, 2021 |
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Oct 17, 2021 03:45
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It's AWD and probably sees a fair amount of vaping so it's OK!
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Oct 17, 2021 03:58
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Toe Rag posted:It's AWD and probably sees a fair amount of vaping so it's OK!  The very rare Aventador
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Oct 17, 2021 07:01
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Interrupting Lamborghini chat, I finally did something with my project car! The two studs at the bottom of the motor where it mounts to the bellhousing were tenacious. Fought with them for way too long and kept doubting myself if I forgot a bolt or something. In the end, I won. 
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Oct 18, 2021 02:44
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Inner Light posted:Spotted an Aventador SVJ parked today here in Chicago. It was a real treat to see one IRL. 900 total for the world, definitely one of the rarest cars I've seen in person so far. The only others as close would be McLarens. You're welcome to come drool over my '93 Legacy wagon and its failing clearcoat, if you want to be on topic.
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Oct 18, 2021 04:57
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Pssshhh, well my outback is spotless! ... Aside from the dings, yellowed headlights, dented liftgate and cracked trim.
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Oct 18, 2021 06:49
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Got the LGT fully back together yesterday, took it for a spin, and enjoyed the new diff. As expected, the Quaife resulted in a leak. My Quaife made me leak I’m going to machine out the sundial and press in a larger seal in the right location.
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Oct 18, 2021 15:07
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Hit 1000 miles in my new work ascent. The radio promptly poo poo itself and now sounds like there's a short when I listen to satellite, BT, or Android auto audio. Giving my personal FCA vehicle a run for the money for soonest time for warranty repair.
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Oct 18, 2021 20:30
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Evil SpongeBob posted:Hit 1000 miles in my new work ascent. Does it sound like this? https://www.reddit.com/r/subaruimpreza/comments/pnoyo8/anyone_else_encounter_this_problem_with_their Dunno what the solution is
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Oct 18, 2021 21:02
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Yeah, but it does it with the internal Sirius too so I'm unsure it's a Bluetooth thing. Thanks for the link, I'm going to try a factory reset and re-pair so I don't have to take it to a dealer. Probably needs a software update, but I did the OTAR update when I first got it. E:. Got quiet at work, so did some googling. It's more like this. Will try the resets before I head home. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2019-radio-has-garble-static-over-audio-except-fm-video.801689/ E2:. Yup. Apparently "turning it off and back on again" solved it. I should have Googled first, but really sounded like a short. Thanks! Evil SpongeBob fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Oct 19, 2021 |
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Oct 18, 2021 21:10
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I'm having a dumb issue with the remote start on my wife's 17 Impreza and I'm having a terrible time googling it. It's got the separate remote start fobs, which seem to have stopped working since the car got a Starlink update. But now I can remote start it via the lock button on the normal keyfob. I tried fresh batteries with no luck. I assume the fob and the car just aren't talking, so is there any way I can get them to recognize each other again?
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Oct 20, 2021 20:55
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2005 subaru outback 3.0 5EAT Has started jerking when gearchanging up Is this a "change the ATF" thing? I had it changed about a year and a half ago (doubt it was fully flushed)
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Oct 30, 2021 04:36
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Caravana just offered me 37,050 for my 2019 Forester Sport. I paid like 29,500 for it brand new. drat.
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Nov 3, 2021 15:16
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Rolo posted:Caravana just offered me 37,050 for my 2019 Forester Sport. I paid like 29,500 for it brand new. Uh, can you take that deal and just buy a CR-V from 2014 or something? I hope this pricing isn't the new norm, it makes no sense. Used vehicles used to give me the hope that I could afford cool cars if they were a little older and shittier, but that is basically no longer, and it makes more sense to buy new than ever before.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:13
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Inner Light posted:Uh, can you take that deal and just buy a CR-V from 2014 or something? I hope this pricing isn't the new norm, it makes no sense. Used vehicles used to give me the hope that I could afford cool cars if they were a little older and shittier, but that is basically no longer, and it makes more sense to buy new than ever before. If you can find a new vehicle on a lot. And then if you can find one on a lot that doesn't have $10k tacked on to the price because gently caress you thats why.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:16
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Hmm, I have a 2020 Impreza with 3,000 miles.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:18
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Inner Light posted:Used vehicles used to give me the hope that I could afford cool cars if they were a little older and shittier. See also: houses… And in a little while here, food.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:31
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Swapped the ice-xes onto the outback today. Caught that they were directional on the first tire instead of after it was done, so I got that going for me. Which is nice.
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Nov 3, 2021 23:47
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Inner Light posted:Uh, can you take that deal and just buy a CR-V from 2014 or something? I hope this pricing isn't the new norm, it makes no sense. Used vehicles used to give me the hope that I could afford cool cars if they were a little older and shittier, but that is basically no longer, and it makes more sense to buy new than ever before. unless OP’s buying a Tesla or scamming a little old lady with no awareness of the market out of her used car, or he just wants money and doesn’t mind moving to a much older and cheaper car—or no car at all, literally every new and used car that could replace the Forester is gonna render the financial gains of that sale relatively moot every traditional dealership and reseller is going to want to get their piece OP: if you’re getting ~$10k over what you paid for the Forester maybe you could replace it with a Model 3. Or you could wait a year with no car and try to get a Type R (lmao those things are gonna be like $60k until 2024). Those are your only two options. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 01:20
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Yeah my current plan is to get an old E46 bimmer, wagon if possible, and split driving that with my motorcycle, which can get me anywhere in a pinch. I just love those cars. As it stands I drive for work 0-4 times a month so it’s not that bad to have a beater for awhile.
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Nov 4, 2021 01:43
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The dealer where my wife works sells every new car as MSRP. Buyers don't seem to mind.
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Nov 4, 2021 02:04
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daslog posted:The dealer where my wife works sells every new car as MSRP. Buyers don't seem to mind. well bless them, but that’s hardly the norm in my area
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Nov 4, 2021 02:41
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