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Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Happiness Commando posted:

You can, but you can also defer it. TreasuryDirect link

Good link thank you.


Just to make sure I am reading right: so I can report it all at once when the bond matures in 30 years. Do I need to report it on each years tax, or basically I don’t report it until said final year?

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80k
Jul 3, 2004

careful!

Duckman2008 posted:

Good link thank you.


Just to make sure I am reading right: so I can report it all at once when the bond matures in 30 years. Do I need to report it on each years tax, or basically I don’t report it until said final year?

Yep that’s right. Or if you redeem early, you report that year.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004
There's no way to get TreasuryDirect to show up in Personal Capital or Mint, right?

Gazpacho
Jun 18, 2004

by Fluffdaddy
Slippery Tilde
If you annualize interest from savings bonds, it's a lifetime election for all current and future savings bonds that you own.

InvisiBill
Jan 14, 2004
_ _

Pillbug

Duckman2008 posted:

Just to make sure I am reading right: so I can report it all at once when the bond matures in 30 years. Do I need to report it on each years tax, or basically I don’t report it until said final year?

A small aside: My uncle had a many Savings Bonds, paper ones. Almost 100k worth, most purchased in the 1970s and 1980s. He paid taxes on the interest each and every year. He passed away in 2000, but the bonds were not found until 2015 or so, well after all had matured. His heirs/estate were able to show that he had paid tax each year, so they were able to avoid most of the taxes due in the year they were cashed out. So paying the taxes later may be a good idea if you project yourself to be in a lower tax bracket, but from an estate planning stand point, it might be better to pay the tax ever year.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

runawayturtles posted:

There's no way to get TreasuryDirect to show up in Personal Capital or Mint, right?

I just add it manually.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

esquilax posted:

I took a lump sum pension payout (but for less money - low 5 figures). My primary concern was keeping track of the account, and keeping all my information up to date, and hoping they don't make an administrative error over the next 40 years or whatever.

Also a nonzero chance that they do a pension buyout and transfer your pension to an annuity company of their choosing, and you lose PBGC protection anyway. Though some (all?) states have separate annuity guarantees as well, which I believe applies to both annuities you purchase yourself and pension buyout annuities.

If you want to see the difference, you can try getting a quote for a deferred annuity for the actual pension stream of payments.
I went ahead and scheduled the distribution. Hope I didn't gently caress it up!

It'll be a relief to know that that money isn't tied up in some black box calculation that seems like it can be changed arbitrarily. I never could get an equation out of them that I could use to calculate the payout at some future date. I had to use the projection function on the website but never knew what was going on under the hood.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
So I'm torn on something and need some outside input.

Here's the scenario, I just learned that someone I'm close to but is not me has had an investment account with a major bank for over a decade and the performance, particularly the last 3 years as the markets gone banana's, has been very poor, basically just above keeping up with inflation. Aside from the fees the bank is taking it appears to also be very conservatively invested. I suspect they've lost out on 6 figures of gains vs if the money had simply been invested in a low fee index fund and long term it may already be the difference between a very comfortable, even early, retirement, vs a borderline one.

Obviously the money shouldn't stay where it is but... I'm not sure what to do. I'd have to count myself among those who thought we were in for a market crash for years now and it keeps not happening, instead they just keep going up. I can admit I've been very wrong about a major market correction so far but I still can't get over the worry that one is due and I'd feel terrible if the money was moved into a more aggressive fund then got caught in a market crash after having sat out all the gains.

Any advice?

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Elem7 posted:

So I'm torn on something and need some outside input.

Here's the scenario, I just learned that someone I'm close to but is not me has had an investment account with a major bank for over a decade and the performance, particularly the last 3 years as the markets gone banana's, has been very poor, basically just above keeping up with inflation. Aside from the fees the bank is taking it appears to also be very conservatively invested. I suspect they've lost out on 6 figures of gains vs if the money had simply been invested in a low fee index fund and long term it may already be the difference between a very comfortable, even early, retirement, vs a borderline one.

Obviously the money shouldn't stay where it is but... I'm not sure what to do. I'd have to count myself among those who thought we were in for a market crash for years now and it keeps not happening, instead they just keep going up. I can admit I've been very wrong about a major market correction so far but I still can't get over the worry that one is due and I'd feel terrible if the money was moved into a more aggressive fund then got caught in a market crash after having sat out all the gains.

Any advice?

The best time to invest is yesterday. The second best time is today.

Unless “they” are retiring in the next like, 5 years, Move everything to said low fee index funds immediately. Even with a crash it’ll recover before you need it.


Anyone who would have gone “all in” in say, early 2007 or Feb 2020, would have made their losses back by now. Sometimes it may not be that quick, but eventually it would.


In other words.


Don’t time the market.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
if it's not you, i advise not giving a gently caress unless you're somehow gonna be on the hook if the person doesn't have a confortable retirement

if this is a weird "someone who is not me!!!" device, that's weird dude don't post like that and put your poo poo in broad index funds with a reasonable fixed income allocation proportionate to your risk tolerance

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost
If you had a lump sum and where retiring somewhere between the next 5 years and now, what are the best options? Vanguard or Fidelity target 2020 or 2025?

drainpipe
May 17, 2004

AAHHHHHHH!!!!
For Elem7, If you are super concerned with an imminent crash, you can tell the person to dollar cost average into the market over a year or so. It's historically suboptimal, but if it allows them to pull the trigger, it's still worth it.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

if it's not you, i advise not giving a gently caress unless you're somehow gonna be on the hook if the person doesn't have a confortable retirement

This is good advice.

That most people won't follow.

Yes including me.

drainpipe
May 17, 2004

AAHHHHHHH!!!!

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

If you had a lump sum and where retiring somewhere between the next 5 years and now, what are the best options? Vanguard or Fidelity target 2020 or 2025?

Personally, I wouldn't use a target date fund whose date has already passed. It's already far too conservative for my taste and will get even more conservative over the next decade. I'd choose something like a Vanguard LifeStrategy, probably Moderate Growth if I'm on the more conservative side.

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost
OK thanks, I'm checking out the LifeStrategy funds. I guess it's just managing risk tolerance. The target 2020 is at about 45/45/10 stocks/bonds/TIPS now. Are you saying that's way too conservative for you, even in retirement? The target funds look great for getting to retirement, maybe not afterward.

dexter6
Sep 22, 2003
Nine times out of ten, lump sum investing ends up better. However, for many people Dollar Cost Averaging into something can make them feel better.

So as others have said, move everything over to more aggressive low cost index funds now.

And if not now, DCA:

1. Decide how many months you want to take to move it over (n months)
2. Move over 1/nth of it on the X day of every month (regardless of what the market is doing)
3. After n months you’re all in

Some months you’ll have bought high and other months you’ll have bought the dip.

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

OK thanks, I'm checking out the LifeStrategy funds. I guess it's just managing risk tolerance. The target 2020 is at about 45/45/10 stocks/bonds/TIPS now. Are you saying that's way too conservative for you, even in retirement? The target funds look great for getting to retirement, maybe not afterward.

I’m kicking my job to the curb in 2-3years and am in 2025/2035 (younger wife).

I need to look at the lifestrategy funds..

drainpipe
May 17, 2004

AAHHHHHHH!!!!

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

OK thanks, I'm checking out the LifeStrategy funds. I guess it's just managing risk tolerance. The target 2020 is at about 45/45/10 stocks/bonds/TIPS now. Are you saying that's way too conservative for you, even in retirement? The target funds look great for getting to retirement, maybe not afterward.

Yes, most of the research on asset allocation for retirement say that 50-75% equities is the sweet spot for safe withdrawal rates. I think erring on the higher equity side is appropriate given today's low bond yield environment.

This also depends on how much money you have. If you have a boatload of money, you can afford to be more conservative.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

dexter6 posted:

Nine times out of ten, lump sum investing ends up better. However, for many people Dollar Cost Averaging into something can make them feel better.

I think it's more like 2 out of 3.

https://static.twentyoverten.com/5980d16bbfb1c93238ad9c24/rJpQmY8o7/Dollar-Cost-Averaging-Just-Means-Taking-Risk-Later-Vanguard.pdf

Also, that's with an insensitive schedule. What if you instead allow for some sensitivity. For example moving a buy date up if price falls below 95% of starting price, thereby increasing your chances of "buying the dip". Maybe you're not going to tip the scale to performing better than lump sum, but seems the cost for feeling better is pretty low. Of course I'm probably just justifying my choices

Mad Wack
Mar 27, 2008

"The faster you use your cooldowns, the faster you can use them again"
Happy Limit Raise Day

irs newswire posted:

IRS announces 401(k) limit increases to $20,500

WASHINGTON — The Internal Revenue Service announced today that the amount individuals can contribute to their 401(k) plans in 2022 has increased to $20,500, up from $19,500 for 2021 and 2020. The IRS today also issued technical guidance regarding all of the
cost of living adjustments affecting dollar limitations for pension plans and other retirement-related items for tax year 2022 in Notice 2021-61, posted today on IRS.gov.

Highlights of changes for 2022

The contribution limit for employees who participate in 401(k), 403(b), most 457 plans, and the federal government's Thrift Savings Plan is increased to $20,500, up from $19,500.

The income ranges for determining eligibility to make deductible contributions to traditional Individual Retirement Arrangements (IRAs), to contribute to Roth IRAs, and to claim the Saver’s Credit all increased for 2022.

Taxpayers can deduct contributions to a traditional IRA if they meet certain conditions. If during the year either the taxpayer or the taxpayer’s spouse was covered by a retirement plan at work, the deduction may be reduced, or phased out, until it is eliminated, depending on filing status and income. (If neither the taxpayer nor the spouse is covered by a retirement plan at work, the phase-outs of the deduction do not apply.) Here are the phase-out ranges for 2022:

For single taxpayers covered by a workplace retirement plan, the phase-out range is increased to $68,000 to $78,000, up from $66,000 to $76,000.
For married couples filing jointly, if the spouse making the IRA contribution is covered by a workplace retirement plan, the phase-out range is increased to $109,000 to $129,000, up from $105,000 to $125,000.
For an IRA contributor who is not covered by a workplace retirement plan and is married to someone who is covered, the phase-out range is increased to $204,000 to $214,000, up from $198,000 to $208,000.
For a married individual filing a separate return who is covered by a workplace retirement plan, the phase-out range is not subject to an annual cost-of-living adjustment and remains $0 to $10,000.
The income phase-out range for taxpayers making contributions to a Roth IRA is increased to $129,000 to $144,000 for singles and heads of household, up from $125,000 to $140,000. For married couples filing jointly, the income phase-out range is increased to $204,000 to $214,000, up from $198,000 to $208,000. The phase-out range for a married individual filing a separate return who makes contributions to a Roth IRA is not subject to an annual cost-of-living adjustment and remains $0 to $10,000.

The income limit for the Saver’s Credit (also known as the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit) for low- and moderate-income workers is $68,000 for married couples filing jointly, up from $66,000; $51,000 for heads of household, up from $49,500; and $34,000 for singles and married individuals filing separately, up from $33,000.

The amount individuals can contribute to their SIMPLE retirement accounts is increased to $14,000, up from $13,500.

Key employee contribution limits that remain unchanged

The limit on annual contributions to an IRA remains unchanged at $6,000. The IRA catch-up contribution limit for individuals aged 50 and over is not subject to an annual cost-of-living adjustment and remains $1,000.

The catch-up contribution limit for employees aged 50 and over who participate in 401(k), 403(b), most 457 plans, and the federal government’s Thrift Savings Plan remains unchanged at $6,500. Therefore, participants in 401(k), 403(b), most 457 plans, and the federal government's Thrift Savings Plan who are 50 and older can contribute up to $27,000, starting in 2022. The catch-up contribution limit for employees aged 50 and over who participate in SIMPLE plans remains unchanged at $3,000.

Details on these and other retirement-related cost-of-living adjustments for 2022 are in Notice 2021-61, available on IRS.gov.

It's a shame they didn't touch the IRA limit or the catch up limits.

Mad Wack fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 4, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Mad Wack posted:

It's a shame they didn't touch the IRA limit or the catch up limits.

Yeah, that's bullshit, especially for people not covered by a workplace plan. They need to be tripled (at least) for people who aren't covered by a workplace plan. Tax advantaged retirement tied to your employer is poo poo policy.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Hey smack me if this is dum dum posting, but I'm looking for a little advice, I have a tech job that pays enough I can't have an ira and my wife is a homemaker.

I'm maxing my 401k, but not doing any real investing beyond that. My risk tolerance is relatively low right now (doomer brain) and I just want to make sure I'm not leaving anything on the table wrt smart safe investments.

Right now my list of action items to do before the end of the year is:

Open a Treasury Direct account for myself and my wife, and buy 10k each of iBonds.
Open a spousal IRA for my wife and contribute the max to that.

Is there anything else I should be making sure I do before EoY? I'm going to try to start contributing to a mega-backdoor Roth through work next year if I can, but house repairs etc have impeded doing that this year.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

GEMorris posted:

Hey smack me if this is dum dum posting, but I'm looking for a little advice, I have a tech job that pays enough I can't have an ira and my wife is a homemaker.

I'm maxing my 401k, but not doing any real investing beyond that. My risk tolerance is relatively low right now (doomer brain) and I just want to make sure I'm not leaving anything on the table wrt smart safe investments.

Right now my list of action items to do before the end of the year is:

Open a Treasury Direct account for myself and my wife, and buy 10k each of iBonds.
Open a spousal IRA for my wife and contribute the max to that.

Is there anything else I should be making sure I do before EoY? I'm going to try to start contributing to a mega-backdoor Roth through work next year if I can, but house repairs etc have impeded doing that this year.

I'm assuming you earn above the Roth IRA income limit.

To contribute to your wife's IRA, you need to be married filing jointly. If you're over the income limit for MFJ ($208,000) then you can't contribute to a Roth IRA for yourself or for your wife. There are almost no scenarios where you Can contribute to a spouse's IRA but can't contribute to your own.

You can do a Backdoor Roth (for now) though. https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/investing/backdoor-roth-ira


What are you actually investing in within your 401k?

Where is all your money going if you earn more than $208k but only save the 401k max each year?

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

I'm assuming you earn above the Roth IRA income limit.

To contribute to your wife's IRA, you need to be married filing jointly. If you're over the income limit for MFJ ($208,000) then you can't contribute to a Roth IRA for yourself or for your wife. There are almost no scenarios where you Can contribute to a spouse's IRA but can't contribute to your own.

You can do a Backdoor Roth (for now) though. https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/investing/backdoor-roth-ira


What are you actually investing in within your 401k?

Where is all your money going if you earn more than $208k but only save the 401k max each year?

Good catch, I didn't realize the income limits also applied to the spousal IRA until after I posted and started googling.

I earn a bit above the limit but not much.

My 401k oscillates between a mix of index funds and bonds, and sitting in cash if I'm panicking about the market (again doomer brain). I should just be like 40 s&p500, 40 Russel 1000, and 20 Bond funds. I know this.

Where does all of my money go? Well mostly paying down debt and buying a house (and repairing that house). My current income levels are a relatively recent accomplishment. When I got my current job I was finally where I could get out of CC debt and max my 401k, after a couple of years I was where I could pay off student loans. Now I'm just at the point where I know I should be saving more but I'm not sure where to start.

Jose Valasquez
Apr 8, 2005

GEMorris posted:

Good catch, I didn't realize the income limits also applied to the spousal IRA until after I posted and started googling.

I earn a bit above the limit but not much.

My 401k oscillates between a mix of index funds and bonds, and sitting in cash if I'm panicking about the market (again doomer brain). I should just be like 40 s&p500, 40 Russel 1000, and 20 Bond funds. I know this.

Where does all of my money go? Well mostly paying down debt and buying a house (and repairing that house). My current income levels are a relatively recent accomplishment. When I got my current job I was finally where I could get out of CC debt and max my 401k, after a couple of years I was where I could pay off student loans. Now I'm just at the point where I know I should be saving more but I'm not sure where to start.

Stop trying to time the market. Just stick it in a target retirement fund and stop fiddling with it, Vanguard is better at planning your retirement than you are

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Jose Valasquez posted:

Stop trying to time the market. Just stick it in a target retirement fund and stop fiddling with it, Vanguard is better at planning your retirement than you are

You are making a rational point against something that is entirely irrational. I *know* this is the right thing but fear/panic is a strong motivator.

Despite my poor decision making wrt sticking with investments, I'm wondering what other mattresses, aside from i bonds, I should be shoving cash into. Sounds like iBonds and the backdoor Roth (while it's still available) are the main answers I need.

fosborb
Dec 15, 2006



Chronic Good Poster
.

surc
Aug 17, 2004

GEMorris posted:

You are making a rational point against something that is entirely irrational. I *know* this is the right thing but fear/panic is a strong motivator.

Assuming the fear/panic is that you'd be investing right before a crash, this is worth a read:
https://awealthofcommonsense.com/2014/02/worlds-worst-market-timer/

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

Mad Wack posted:

Happy Limit Raise Day
Didn't see HSAs in there but they went up $50/yr for individuals and $100/yr for families to $3,650 and $7,300 respectively.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

GEMorris posted:

You are making a rational point against something that is entirely irrational. I *know* this is the right thing but fear/panic is a strong motivator.

Despite my poor decision making wrt sticking with investments, I'm wondering what other mattresses, aside from i bonds, I should be shoving cash into. Sounds like iBonds and the backdoor Roth (while it's still available) are the main answers I need.

A IRA, Roth or traditional, isn't an investment product. It's a class of investment account with a particular legal status and tax advantages. You still have to determine what you're holding in that account, otherwise your contribution is just going to sit in a money market fund making -(inflation)%.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Kylaer posted:

A IRA, Roth or traditional, isn't an investment product. It's a class of investment account with a particular legal status and tax advantages. You still have to determine what you're holding in that account, otherwise your contribution is just going to sit in a money market fund making -(inflation)%.

Yes, but this is a different question from "this mattress I know about is full, what other mattresses should I be prioritizing?"

surc posted:

Assuming the fear/panic is that you'd be investing right before a crash, this is worth a read:
https://awealthofcommonsense.com/2014/02/worlds-worst-market-timer/

yeah, really just need to fully internalize this.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
you are allowed to contribute to an IRA, fyi, your contributions just aren't tax deductible for a trad IRA. but then there's backdoor roth IRA which you should be doing while you still can.

edit: please for the love of christ stop loving with your 401(k) investment allocation

MeatRocket8
Aug 3, 2011

I'm new to the game. What's the favored broad mutual fund now?

I've got 2/3rd my money in VTI and VOO.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

edit: please for the love of christ stop loving with your 401(k) investment allocation

This.

ChocNitty posted:

I'm new to the game. What's the favored broad mutual fund now?

I've got 2/3rd my money in VTI and VOO.

You doing good.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004

GEMorris posted:

Yes, but this is a different question from "this mattress I know about is full, what other mattresses should I be prioritizing?"

yeah, really just need to fully internalize this.

I would look at it from the other direction. After your typical spending, and saving an emergency fund if you don't have one, how much do you have left over to invest? Maybe that number roughly aligns with maxing out two backdoor Roths (and the I Bonds, which could be considered part of your emergency fund or not, up to you). But maybe it's more, in which case further investing would be the next step. If you don't have kids for whom to open a 529 nor an HSA, then a taxable account would typically be next.

Take it from me, if you have a bunch of leftover cash after maxing your tax advantaged accounts, it's not the greatest idea to let it sit around and get eaten by inflation and interest taxes.

edit: And, obviously, this:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

edit: please for the love of christ stop loving with your 401(k) investment allocation

runawayturtles fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Nov 5, 2021

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
like if you are true doom and gloom, your portfolio should consist of MREs, fertilizer, seeds, and hand tools plus 5.56 / 9x19 / .22LR, potable water, fuel, and cigarettes

if you are "doom and gloom" such that you cope by switching between classes of investments / cash your idea of doom and gloom is like for infants or toddlers and you just like to think you're smart

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

GEMorris posted:

Yes, but this is a different question from "this mattress I know about is full, what other mattresses should I be prioritizing?"

yeah, really just need to fully internalize this.

Don't time the market. If you insist on timing the market, the market is not for you. Is there any other debt you have? Car loan, student loans, mortgage? Shove money there until you can learn to not time the market. Unsubscribe from any news sources that talk about the economy at all.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

GEMorris posted:

Yes, but this is a different question from "this mattress I know about is full, what other mattresses should I be prioritizing?"

If you’re retirement is on track, spend the extra. Take the trip, buy the watch or car or boat, fly first class, or whatever. Enjoy life while you have your health and mobility. Honestly retirement doesn’t seem to be all it’s cracked up to be and it doesn’t matter how many mattresses you have filled up if your body isn’t up to it or god forbid you don’t even make it to retirement.

I’m watching family a generation before me retire and honestly it’s not all it’s cracked up to be.

Find a nice balance if you haven’t already.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
I'm not sure what doom brain means exactly, but maybe philanthropy is another avenue that could help you feel like your money isn't just going on the roulette wheel

Epitope fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Nov 5, 2021

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Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Epitope posted:

I'm not sure what doom brain means exactly, but maybe philanthropy is another avenue that could help you feel like your money isn't just going on the roulette wheel

Doom brain is basically the thought of “between global warming, covid, the country going to poo poo, etc, there is no way that I can save for retirement, and even if I could, the planet will be destroyed in 30 years anyway.

Smaller versions of that are like when people predict the economy or stock market will crash when xx person becomes president or whatever.


Find a balance between saving money for later, and also enjoying the present (like travel or whatever), that fits your risk preference is the best I guess I can politely say it.


And don’t time the market !!!!

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