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meatpimp posted:I started cutting the wood I have down, and made panels for 4+ salt cellars. Nice. Funny you posted this right as I finished mine. Looks like we're making the same style. I went with walnut and birds eye maple. I just cut the box joints by hand, so they didn't end up great and had to fill a bunch of spots with slivers from offcuts, but overall I like it and just wanted to make it so I could start using it. I maybe should have taken the time to make a router table box joint jig but I figured it would take me forever to get it dialed in right since I don't have a table saw/planer.   Also, the next thing I want to make is a magnetic knife strip. I have a couple nice knives now I want to hang up and wouldn't want to put them in a knife block, and I don't have drawer storage space. I've seen a couple different ways to do it. The one I like the best is a channel for the magnets, and use that same channel to fit over a mounting strip that you screw to the wall and then use a couple set screws from underneath to secure it. The problem is I don't really want to screw into my backsplash since it's not repairable. So that leaves gorilla or 3M adhesive tape or several Command mounting strips. They all apparently work but I'm hesitant about it. Also I have a herringbone tile pattern so don't have large sections of tile for adhesive that aren't broken up by a grout strip. There's no other good place in the kitchen to mount one, so I'd like to see if I could make it work. I know this isn't exactly a woodworking question but would welcome any advice. (I know my cutting board needs oil) 
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Nov 3, 2021 01:10
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The Slack Lagoon posted:If you have plaster basement ceilings it's from the ceiling My main concern is that the table has cracks between the wood where it's going to be difficult to clean, but I'll give it my best shot. Stay tuned for the latest on the Stendig chairs.
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Nov 3, 2021 01:26
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:It's a barn from the 1890s so just wood throughout. To add to all of the above, try not to flood the table with water. It shouldn’t really hurt a good finish in decent condition, but a damp/wet rag with water/vinegar/Murphy’s/ whatever is a good bit safer. An old toothbrush or a paintbrush with the bristles cut short to make them stiffer and q-tips will help in the little grooves. A dark wax will also get down in there and hide whatever crap is hiding in them.
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Nov 3, 2021 02:48
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Thanks for these really helpful suggestions, everyone!
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Nov 3, 2021 03:46
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nosleep posted:Nice. Funny you posted this right as I finished mine. Looks like we're making the same style. I went with walnut and birds eye maple. I just cut the box joints by hand, so they didn't end up great and had to fill a bunch of spots with slivers from offcuts, but overall I like it and just wanted to make it so I could start using it. I maybe should have taken the time to make a router table box joint jig but I figured it would take me forever to get it dialed in right since I don't have a table saw/planer. Definitely similar projects. I've been watching your top fitment discussion. How did you do your hinge? I'll be making a router table jig soon, I'll take some pics to document success / failure. quote:Also, the next thing I want to make is a magnetic knife strip. I have a couple nice knives now I want to hang up and wouldn't want to put them in a knife block, and I don't have drawer storage space. I've seen a couple different ways to do it. The one I like the best is a channel for the magnets, and use that same channel to fit over a mounting strip that you screw to the wall and then use a couple set screws from underneath to secure it. The problem is I don't really want to screw into my backsplash since it's not repairable. So that leaves gorilla or 3M adhesive tape or several Command mounting strips. They all apparently work but I'm hesitant about it. Also I have a herringbone tile pattern so don't have large sections of tile for adhesive that aren't broken up by a grout strip. There's no other good place in the kitchen to mount one, so I'd like to see if I could make it work. I know this isn't exactly a woodworking question but would welcome any advice. (I know my cutting board needs oil) Yeah, that's a tough one. I don't know that I'd trust adhesive strips in a kitchen environment. What about some thing gauge wire secured to the molding above, allowing the magnetic knife block to hang against the wall? (Edit: Now that I type that, I realize that the vertical lines may look bad against the herringbone pattern)
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Nov 3, 2021 12:34
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EVERYWHERE 
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3m VHB tape with a foam backing will holding a few knives up and is drat near permanent. Clean the tile with rubbing alcohol and maybe hit it with a hair dryer to warm in up a touch. Make sure the wood has zero wax on the back side.
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Nov 3, 2021 13:23
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meatpimp posted:Definitely similar projects. I've been watching your top fitment discussion. How did you do your hinge? I did a 1/8 inch brass pin through the sides and rounded over both sides of the back of the lid and inside of the back wall. Then I sanded out a groove along the upper edge of the back wall for the lid to clear. You can see the diagram that was made up for me by shame on an IGA a few pages back. NomNomNom posted:3m VHB tape with a foam backing will holding a few knives up and is drat near permanent. Clean the tile with rubbing alcohol and maybe hit it with a hair dryer to warm in up a touch. Make sure the wood has zero wax on the back side. I've read about the VHB tape which seems like it would be most secure but the "drat near permanent" part is what worries me. They show themselves using an oscillating tool to cut under it to remove it. I think they say adhesive remover would work but would be hard to get it back there. Removing it might damage my tile worse than a couple anchors would. Would it be possible to remove if it had to be? If I wanted to use small anchors could I drill into the grout line and fill it later if it had to be moved?
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Nov 3, 2021 14:58
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Did a glue-up the other day and went back to surface/smooth it out only to find it had cupped like crazy. I got really upset because it seemed like I'd be lucky to get away with 5/8" after flattening when I was hoping to keep it 3/4". At some point I flipped the board over to look at the other side. Next day I went back to find it had cupped the other way. Finally realized I had left the board on my bench without stickering. Left it on slats for a day and now it's almost totally flat. Wood is loving annoying.
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Nov 3, 2021 15:28
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z0331 posted:Did a glue-up the other day and went back to surface/smooth it out only to find it had cupped like crazy. I got really upset because it seemed like I'd be lucky to get away with 5/8" after flattening when I was hoping to keep it 3/4". At some point I flipped the board over to look at the other side. It sure is. I got 8/4 maple to resaw, wanting each final board to be 3/4 and it's going to be close. Each time I resaw it, the two halves go sproing, usually while I'm still sawing.
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Nov 3, 2021 16:07
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The veritas #7 jointer plane from lee valley's seconds sale finally arrived. Near as I can tell the only defect on it is some pitting on the frog, which is just covered up by the blade and cap iron anyway. Is this as sale they do yearly at a set time or is it kinda random based on supply?
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Nov 3, 2021 18:57
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Fortaleza posted:The veritas #7 jointer plane from lee valley's seconds sale finally arrived. Near as I can tell the only defect on it is some pitting on the frog, which is just covered up by the blade and cap iron anyway. I think its yearly. So far I'm up 1 low angle rabbet jack plane (plus fence), one #5 1/4w, and the closed mouth router. Safe to say I love this sale.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:06
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Fortaleza posted:The veritas #7 jointer plane from lee valley's seconds sale finally arrived. Near as I can tell the only defect on it is some pitting on the frog, which is just covered up by the blade and cap iron anyway. I got my bevel up jointer and there's a small Sharpie circle on the bottom that seems to be indicating pitting? I can't even tell. It seems perfect.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:20
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I got my little router plane and all that's wrong with it is a bit of a chip on the enamel/japanning/whatever it's called I also got all of my leg pieces and stretchers rough cut for my bench. The next steps are to rip them to final width, fine cut them to length and then prep the vise hardware.
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Nov 3, 2021 21:42
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A couple (old) Stanley 5 and one 35 planes just popped up at a property auction near me. Is there a good guide of what to look for? I'm okay with refurbishing, and there is some rust, but I'm looking for a top-down view of what to look for...
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Nov 3, 2021 23:52
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meatpimp posted:A couple (old) Stanley 5 and one 35 planes just popped up at a property auction near me. Is there a good guide of what to look for? I'm okay with refurbishing, and there is some rust, but I'm looking for a top-down view of what to look for... This site has an absurd amount of detail on every Stanley plane ever made http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
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Nov 4, 2021 00:16
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Stultus Maximus posted:This site has an absurd amount of detail on every Stanley plane ever made http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html Perfect. Thank you.
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Nov 4, 2021 00:25
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Stultus Maximus posted:This site has an absurd amount of detail on every Stanley plane ever made http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html I remember stumbling on this site like a decade ago and saying 'yep, don't really care about collecting Stanley planes, but this is the insane site on the internet I need if I ever do' and apparently forgot to bookmark it! Thanks for sharing so I can bookmark it now.
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Nov 4, 2021 01:05
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Late to the seconds party, scored a large shoulder plane and an edge trimming plane. The defects were laughably small.
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Nov 4, 2021 04:45
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Supertool is one of the three insane hand plane sites I refer back to regularly. Here are the other two: https://www.timetestedtools.net/2017/02/05/dating-hand-planes-start-page/ This is a click-through hand plane dating guide https://woodandshop.com/woodworking-hand-tool-buying-guide-handplanes/#buyblockplane This is an old hand plane buying guide. At first glance it might look superficial, but: keep scrolling past each interstitial advertisement, because oh, gosh, this is super long actually!
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Nov 4, 2021 07:38
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nosleep posted:I did a 1/8 inch brass pin through the sides and rounded over both sides of the back of the lid and inside of the back wall. Then I sanded out a groove along the upper edge of the back wall for the lid to clear. You can see the diagram that was made up for me by shame on an IGA a few pages back. I think you could dribble goo gone behind the mounted item to release the adhesive. Drilling through the grout line is a great idea too if the fasteners are a small enough diameter. You must be new to home ownership though if you think you're ever moving it once it is on the wall.
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Nov 4, 2021 11:52
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Leperflesh posted:Supertool is one of the three insane hand plane sites I refer back to regularly. Here are the other two: You should, honourable mod, edit these into the OP.
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Nov 4, 2021 14:19
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I am but a humble Trad Games mod: I don't have buttons in HC&H.
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Nov 4, 2021 17:40
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I have bought entirely too much tool and applies it to entirely too cheap lumber (leftovers from the house remodeling) and it turns out that the jankiest fir crapwood that's been hanging around my shop for months, after jointing and planing and a bunch of stain and lacquer actually looks kinda nice?  (It isn't actually that shiny, it's a satin finish, my shop lights are bright) For a first capital-F, capital-W Fine Woodworking thing, I'm very happy with it. Anything that isn't upholstered in the new house is coming out of the shop, so--long way to go. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 17:44
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It looks fantastic! The main concern with softwoods like fir isn't really the look, it's the durability: but with a good finish, softwood will hold up just fine, and the occasional ding and dent just adds character.
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Nov 4, 2021 17:50
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Thanks! The look comment was more that this was all beat to poo poo; warped, etc etc. When you order material by the shitload, the fine folks at the blue-flavored home center do not get picky on your behalf. I wasn't going to make the table at all at first, I was just running material through the jointer and planer to figure out how it worked, and kinda went "hey this isn't bad...". I'm not super worried about it getting beat up. (Learning project, after all--and there's literally eleven dollars of wood in that thing.) More worried about it beating up my shins, as any good coffee table shall do. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 17:56
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tracecomplete posted:Thanks! The look comment was more that this was all beat to poo poo; warped, etc etc. When you order material by the shitload, the fine folks at the blue-flavored home center do not get picky on your behalf. I wasn't going to make the table at all at first, I was just running material through the jointer and planer to figure out how it worked, and kinda went "hey this isn't bad...". That looks super. I made a bench/plant stand a few years ago out of some fir and it's held up great. I really enjoy the look of it with nice rings and patterning they can really make stand out pieces. And being cheap enough it's great to screw around with too.
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Nov 4, 2021 18:29
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I'm putting the finish on my cherry tabletop. I'm doing 4 coats of Satin Arm R Seal, and I talked to an employee at woodcraft and he recommended putting Osmo Polyx-Oil over the armor seal, and applying it with a 0000 pad on an orbital sander. I tried to find something online about doing a finish that way but so far I haven't been able to find anything. Would that work? I was going to try it on the bottom before I did it on the top. How long after the last coat of Arm R Seal should I wait to apply it?
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Nov 4, 2021 20:14
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I'm putting the finish on my cherry tabletop. I'm doing 4 coats of Satin Arm R Seal, and I talked to an employee at woodcraft and he recommended putting Osmo Polyx-Oil over the armor seal, and applying it with a 0000 pad on an orbital sander. I tried to find something online about doing a finish that way but so far I haven't been able to find anything. Would that work? I was going to try it on the bottom before I did it on the top. How long after the last coat of Arm R Seal should I wait to apply it? Long story short, I think you could achieve the same look just by rubbing out the finish and waxing with a paste wax. Rubbing out finish is the magic next to last step that makes everything look a whole lot better. I would do it by hand, with the grain, not on an orbital sander.
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Nov 4, 2021 20:35
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You also don't need 4 coats of Satin, do 3 coats of Gloss and then top with Satin if desired. Satin has bits of cloudy stuff in it, which are potentially desirable on the top but would look cloudy in multiple thick layers. You could also just use Gloss and rub with 0000 or an equivalent white Scotch Brite (7445) pad to get the satin top finish. 3M lists the brown pad (7745, 000 steel wool equivalent) as their recommendation for rubbing out finishes. Note that if you top coat it with wax, it'll cloud up if you put a cold glass on it without a coaster, where plain Arm R Seal finishes will shrug off anything short of acetone.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:32
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Ripped and squared the ends of my legs and stretchers today. Making sawdust is fun! Next step is to measure and cut the legs and stretchers to final length, and then I need to read all of hte benchcraft instructions.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:36
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Thanks, just put the third coat of satin on so I'll rub it out and leave it like that.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:36
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CommonShore posted:You should, honourable mod, edit these into the OP. I added them-good suggestion. If anyone wants to, we can reboot this thread with a new, expanded, updated, collaborative? OP anytime. This current thread would be linked from the new one and sent to The Goodmine and be forever accessible without archives without breaking any links or anything. We did it with the Horticulture thread a while ago and found some new posters and putting together some informative first couple posts was a fun little project and it wasn't a big scary 400 page thread anymore. But this thread is fine too!
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Nov 5, 2021 00:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I added them-good suggestion. If anyone wants to, we can reboot this thread with a new, expanded, updated, collaborative? OP anytime. This current thread would be linked from the new one and sent to The Goodmine and be forever accessible without archives without breaking any links or anything. We did it with the Horticulture thread a while ago and found some new posters and putting together some informative first couple posts was a fun little project and it wasn't a big scary 400 page thread anymore. The biggest benefits of doing this are that the weblinks can be updated and people will stop getting intimidated by the huge page count, which from what I've seen does discourage some posters
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Nov 5, 2021 00:33
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OP last posted in the thread in 2016 so I think that's a good indicator that the OP is unmaintained and I think having a maintained OP would be nice, yup.
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Nov 5, 2021 00:41
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I posted a few days ago about trying to rehome a large-ish walnut trunk from a dead tree I'm having cut down, and wanted to check back in and report success! My boss's son has a friend into woodworking and not only will he take it off my hands but will also pay me $100. However during the bidding process for the tree removal I've discovered my 50' living walnut tree has contracted Thousand Canker disease and is not long for this world  Which really loving sucks, it's close to 100 years old and provides all the shade to the house. I love that tree. I think I will keep a section of trunk and maybe carve it into an outdoor bench or something when it does have to come down. The wood shouldn't be transported (recommended disposal is "burn on site if possible") so I will not be able to rehome any of it. I guess at least it will provide a fuckton of firewood 
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Nov 5, 2021 00:50
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SubponticatePoster posted:I posted a few days ago about trying to rehome a large-ish walnut trunk from a dead tree I'm having cut down, and wanted to check back in and report success! My boss's son has a friend into woodworking and not only will he take it off my hands but will also pay me $100. Maybe get a 2nd opinion? I'm reading where that can be effectively heat (kiln, I'd imagine) treated: Their results showed that heating black walnut logs to a minimum outer sapwood temperature of 56°C (132.8°F, measured at least 1 cm below cambium) for 40 minutes is an effective treatment for eliminating the thousand cankers disease vector and pathogen A hundred year old tree, you can get some valuable lumber from, lots of projects for you or someone. Just sayin. Errybody itt loves black walnut, friend. It is a king of woods.
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Nov 5, 2021 02:56
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NomNomNom posted:I think you could dribble goo gone behind the mounted item to release the adhesive. Lol. You're right. I would never move it once it's up, wherever I decide to put it. The to do list is always never ending and I'd never think about it again. I have never done anything related to tile, so I'm just being a chicken poo poo. I'm probably gonna put it on the side of the cabinet on the other side of the kitchen anyway.
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Nov 5, 2021 06:21
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Mr. Mambold posted:A hundred year old tree, you can get some valuable lumber from, lots of projects for you or someone. Just sayin. Yuuuup. It's really one of the prettiest natural lookers.
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Nov 5, 2021 07:59
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As a dissenting opinion, I'd just burn it on site. Black walnut's a very pretty wood but not pretty enough that I'd gently caress around with possibly spreading a fungal tree disease. If I had a kiln on site to heat treat it there, I'd try it. But transporting it around to other places for treatment or selling it to some guy who promises that he has a kiln and he's definitely going to heat treat it properly? Eh. I'd rather just burn it and be safe.
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Nov 5, 2021 10:10
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somebody whispers, "urban walnut slabs" and matt cremona wakes up in a cold sweat in other news, I'm a bit more than halfway through making a moravian workbench, and Will Myers has a link of an article he did on the build a while ago: https://eclecticmechanicals.com/2018/08/01/moravian-workbench-plans-free/
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Nov 5, 2021 15:42
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