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insta posted:-48mm sounds grossly wrong, that's 20% of the bed away from the nozzle yes? That was a direct measurement of the tip of the probe to the nozzle. And even verified with marking with tape, and moving the x gantry 1 step at a time and noting the diff. Anything in the 40-50 range is appropriate for the various fan shrouds out there. The BL Touch docs, for a stock install using the included bracket shows -40
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Nov 4, 2021 15:12
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Yeah my cooling fan is what 40mm half that is 20, plus shroud is 30 and then the bracket has additional offset, 45mm seems totally reasonable
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Nov 4, 2021 15:47
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cephalopods posted:Zyltech is my usual go-to for budget pla. Their silks are temperamental but I think that's true of all silks? The basic PLA is consistent and matte black has been pretty dependable for me, too. I was reading somewhere people hated matterhacker pla because of issues, especially for the price they paid. I ended up with various brands of Silk PLA because i like the color choices from Amazon, and I have been mostly disappointed in prints involving fine detail, it just doesnt hold up. I was about to give up on some prints until i found i bought a box of hatchbox plain black PLA and its been amazing. Im probably going through the whole roll soon for needed printer parts, klipper testing, RPi cases, etc. And I would love to get a bunch more, but the colors are a bit 'meh' Then again I do have yet to find a Silk metallic PLA that lived up to its hype and amazon description. The glow in the dark stuff i have is listed as PLA+, and it glows and prints awesome, it charges almost instantly but it doesnt last long
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Nov 4, 2021 16:16
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y'all and your silk PLAs and your metallics and your whatevers i just want bulk plastic that isnt garbage, all the stuff i make gets filled, sanded, and printed anyway.  like this five foot ganondorf sword i made Edit: Am I confused, or is this a _really_ good deal on nitrile gloves for resin printing? I had my buddy who's a doctor keeping an eye out for me. https://glovenation.com/collections/nitrile-gloves/products/chemo-rated-blue-genx-exam-gloves Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 16:42
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Deviant posted:Edit: Am I confused, or is this a _really_ good deal on nitrile gloves for resin printing? I had my buddy who's a doctor keeping an eye out for me. That's a very nice sword print! Seems like that's a good deal for nitrile gloves. On amazon in Canada they are carrying kirkland brand nitrile gloves now for 0.16 each which seems to be the cheapest I can find.
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Nov 4, 2021 17:30
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Roundboy posted:I was reading somewhere people hated matterhacker pla because of issues, especially for the price they paid. Sainsmart Silk is REALLY good if you want to print silk. It holds details really well. And yeah, Matterhackers Build PLA is great. It's what I usually order.
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Nov 4, 2021 19:08
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Chainclaw posted:0.15 mm, it's been pretty good for warhammer terrain so far. That's crazy! I can barely see any of the deposition lines.
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Nov 4, 2021 20:08
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Prusa mini review: having a light kit on my mk3s has spoiled me. luckily the same guy made this https://www.etsy.com/listing/883553120/led-light-bar-prusa-mini-please-read Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 22:25
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Deviant posted:Prusa mini review: I have this too, it is great.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:38
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So Klipper is kinda cool. So far on my stock ender 3 v2 hotend i can up my acceleration to 5000 and I am printing at 150mm/s with a benchy https://imgur.com/a/F3AWosX The only other change was to lower my retraction to something like .75. I am trying to print faster and faster to see the max of the stock hardware but this is already dropping my time on benchy from 1.5h to 58 min. trying calibration cubes at 200 but i think i wont really see real speed improvements on small parts
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Nov 5, 2021 00:21
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Proud to report that I am printing my first 3D printed part that I created from scratch using Fusion 360, a harp tuning key: It costs around 80 cents to print and is replacing a part which retails for 40 bucks. I'm going to play around with designs and materials, but if this works it's going to be VERY helpful for a niche group of folks.
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Nov 5, 2021 00:58
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Talorat posted:Proud to report that I am printing my first 3D printed part that I created from scratch using Fusion 360, a harp tuning key: Stuff like this is basically the coolest part of 3D printing. 99.9% of the printing I do is not custom-designed parts to fit some tiny niche need, but every time I crank something out for that 0.01% it makes me unimaginably happy.
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Nov 5, 2021 01:38
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Ya for real, had an issue at work and the solution was a bespoke over-engineered machine that could be replaced by a servo and weirdly-shaped blocks on rails. So I just designed the blocks and saved us fifty thousand loving dollars
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Nov 5, 2021 01:40
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The absolute most useful thing I’ve printed for myself in five years was a little PETG mesh to sit in my dishwasher’s silverware tray so I could toss chopsticks in it. Previously the chopsticks would just fall through the tray’s holes so I’d have to hand wash them. It makes a positive difference in my life at least once a day. Two minutes to design (in OpenSCAD  ) and it was surely less than ten cents worth of plastic.e: probably the objectively most useful thing I’ve ever printed were face masks for a local volunteer group at the beginning of the pandemic. Probably cranked out three hundred of them over the course of a few weeks and I know they made a difference in people’s lives…still, that dishwasher tray owns so hard csammis fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Nov 5, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 04:15
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My 4 year old was pretty thrilled that I printed a replacement battery cover for his RC car this morning, so it no longer self-eviscerates the 4 AAs whenever it bumps something. It was babby's first ground-up design in CAD.
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Nov 5, 2021 04:30
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canyoneer posted:My 4 year old was pretty thrilled that I printed a replacement battery cover for his RC car this morning, so it no longer self-eviscerates the 4 AAs whenever it bumps something. It was babby's first ground-up design in CAD. Nice! My printer is basically a custom Brio Train piece machine for my kids at this point, I'm lucky to get in anything for myself 
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Nov 5, 2021 11:31
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Mr. Mercury posted:Ya for real, had an issue at work and the solution was a bespoke over-engineered machine that could be replaced by a servo and weirdly-shaped blocks on rails. Let me know if you ever see a penny of that savings reflected in your salary. 
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Nov 5, 2021 12:43
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Mr. Mercury posted:Ya for real, had an issue at work and the solution was a bespoke over-engineered machine that could be replaced by a servo and weirdly-shaped blocks on rails. So you just gained yourself a $5k bonus?
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Nov 5, 2021 13:48
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Ender arrived and set up. Squared everything off and leveled the bed (the default Z end stop position is for a standard bed thickness, not glass. So that was a challenge for a few minutes). As expected, the plastic extruders are still garbage, so I grabbed the metal one off of the disassembled CR-10S and had it running in a minute. The nozzle was clogged out of the box, but a little acupuncture and it started flowing. Also: holy gently caress it's quiet. The fans are the loudest parts (I might upgrade those) of the whole operation. The steppers and drivers are almost silent. First print with no tweaks came out nice. It's amazing to me how much better the camera on my phone picks up layers than my eyes. 
AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Nov 5, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 13:55
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I replaced the only makerbot clone with a e3v2 and yeah, holy crap it’s so much quieter. Having a few issues with the first layer sticking, but I’ve only gotten 30-45minutes to play with it so far.
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Nov 5, 2021 14:48
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Let me know if you ever see a penny of that savings reflected in your salary. I will, just not all of it I used the money and then some to make another entry level hire, so while it's not going into my pocket- some really talented and cool kid can do something they studied for instead of IT helpdesk (and also get better bennies) First order of business? A photogrammetry station 
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Nov 5, 2021 14:54
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I like the petsfang bullseye on my ender, but i printed a herome to use new fans but could not install because i didnt have an m3 bolt long enough for the base (I need x24 and i had max of 20) so i stuck with the bulleye. I need to tweak some retractions in cura for my klipper use, as I think i was see saw'ing back and forth so much that i broke the fillament in the PTFE tube just after the extruder exit. I can't push / pull it out so I need to remove the whole tube and god drat it is annoying to have to take off almost the whole fan assembly to access the pressure fit nozzle on top. Are there any good replacement shrouds that let you access the nozzle / tube without a full disassembly ? Im getting on a flight tomorrow so I guess im just done printing for a couple weeks
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Nov 5, 2021 15:13
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Really dumb question that I feel like I should have asked a year ago - should you let the hotend and nozzle cool fully before removing a nozzle? I somehow managed to crossthread a nozzle *while removing it* while still hot and I'm not sure if it was just a combination of my normal cackhandedness and cheap soft metal hotend or if I was doing something stupid by touching it while it was hot. Related - I ordered a replacement and it came with a preinstalled Bowden tube but I decided to just leave the existing one (and heater and thermocouple) in place and swap them into the new one to avoid the pain of unpicking the loom, and I noticed that on the new one the tube stopped just inside the heatsink but on the old one it went all the way down to the top of the nozzle. The latter seems like a much more sensible way of doing things, but I'm second-guessing myself now especially as I was having occasional feed issues - specifically occasional over-extrusion - with the old one. (It's a clone of an Anet ET4 which I *think* is itself a derivative of an Ender 3 - at least hot ends for the Ender 3 slot straight in - if that makes a difference)
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Nov 5, 2021 15:55
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Tom's latest video is super interesting, you can repurpose old android phones as octoprint hosts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38
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Nov 5, 2021 16:44
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Mr. Mercury posted:Ya for real, had an issue at work and the solution was a bespoke over-engineered machine that could be replaced by a servo and weirdly-shaped blocks on rails. My father in law works for a giant defense contractor making missiles or something. He was telling me that a few years ago they were using 3D printers exclusively for rapid prototyping sort of stuff, then sending the parts to be CNC milled out of aluminum or titanium or something. Now they're just straight up using 3D printed parts straight off the print bed directly in assemblies and parts.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:02
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Ha! that's cool as hell, are they printing metals? Man that'd be awesome to play with  I wish my work was anywhere near as technical as that, I'm basically trying to invent ways to test extremely esoteric and... well... near-useless things. But because the market for testing said things is just so thin the prices are certifiably insane. There was zero risk of ownership buying that expensive machine in my other post, but it's good to have a stand-in that costs 1/100th the price (1/50th if you count the Prusa) Mr. Mercury fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Nov 5, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 17:10
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Really dumb question that I feel like I should have asked a year ago - should you let the hotend and nozzle cool fully before removing a nozzle? I somehow managed to crossthread a nozzle *while removing it* while still hot and I'm not sure if it was just a combination of my normal cackhandedness and cheap soft metal hotend or if I was doing something stupid by touching it while it was hot. Normally you cannot remove the nozzle unless the hotend is heated up. When it's cold, plastic inside the heater block fuses everything together. Printing temperature is not going to cause any significant softening in the metal components either. I'm going to go with cackhandedness. I don't really understand how you could cross-thread a nozzle by removing it, though. It's already in the threads. Maybe it was cross-threaded when it went in and you just didn't notice?
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Nov 5, 2021 17:12
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Sagebrush posted:Normally you cannot remove the nozzle unless the hotend is heated up. When it's cold, plastic inside the heater block fuses everything together. Printing temperature is not going to cause any significant softening in the metal components either. I'm going to go with cackhandedness. Yeah, the residual filament thing is why I was doing it warm. As to cross-threading it while taking it out - I was distracted and rushing while I did it and was using a socket wrench, and I think I stupidly put too much pressure on the long end when turning it. It definitely wasn't crossed when it was on, I'm generally pretty meticulous about putting them in right after trashing another hot-end by over-tightening. I am an absolute *wizard* at loving things up.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:41
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mewse posted:Tom's latest video is super interesting, you can repurpose old android phones as octoprint hosts Just because you can, doesn't mean you should, etc.? Looking forward to somebody making their old Android phone explode like he warned about not doing if you want to do this.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:43
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This is just a friendly PSA to filter and reuse your loving IPA if you aren't already. Don't listen to idiots on the internet that say it's hard, or time-consuming, or that you'll only get one or two reuses from it. This is my tiny little pre-wash rinse container that I just filled with IPA from my filtered jar: That came from a batch of IPA that I've reused easily 9-10 times at this point, and it's so crystal clear that I wasn't sure if it'd be obvious in the picture that there was any actual liquid in there. My entire process involves two mason jars, a pack of 200 coffee filters I bought for $2 that will last me until resin exposure kills me, and a big rear end funnel I got from a dollar store. Oh, and some rubber bands to make the filters stay on the funnel. If you get a big enough funnel, you can just dump half a gallon of IPA directly into the funnel and walk away, instead of standing around like an idiot waiting for it to all filter through. The whole process requires maybe 2 minutes of active effort every few weeks. The key is to let your dirty IPA sit for a really long time. Two weeks on a window sill will get a 64oz mason jar filled with extremely dirty IPA to the point where it's crystal clear. Everything is so separated out at this point that you can very carefully pour all but the bottom ounce or so directly into a washing bin without a filter and not have a single flake of resin in sight. So yeah, don't create more waste than necessary with resin printing. Unless you're an extreme volume printer/seller, you should be able to buy a gallon of the stuff and reuse it almost indefinitely.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:50
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goddamnedtwisto posted:As to cross-threading it while taking it out - I was distracted and rushing while I did it and was using a socket wrench, and I I use the smallest crescent wrench I have (about 4 inches long) whenever I'm working on a nozzle so yeah I would suggest not using a socket wrench in the future. (Did you know? Adjustable wrenches are actually the proper tool to use on brass fittings, because you can tighten them right up against the flats every time and minimize the chance of rounding off the corners. Regular wrenches or sockets have some amount of intentional looseness to account for variability in the fastener head, and it's just enough to gently caress everything up if you start putting a lot of torque on a soft metal nut or bolt)
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Nov 5, 2021 17:51
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Something like this would probably also work well for most of us. https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-Change-Tool-MK10/dp/B07FD5DKFN
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Nov 5, 2021 17:57
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In my latest run of parts I picked up a socket and hand turner for exactly the ease of removing and tightening hot nozzles Titan 12090 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VM7WWE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share CRAFTSMAN Shallow Socket, SAE,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKGJBZX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I really hate using that crescent wrench and I always seem to misplace it when I need it
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Nov 5, 2021 18:12
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Thin stamped-metal wrench makes for less of a heat sink when you put it on a hot nozzle.
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Nov 5, 2021 19:44
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Mr. Mercury posted:Ha! that's cool as hell, are they printing metals? Man that'd be awesome to play with You can come pretty close to printing metal with FDM at home now. Integza was using some filament that's mostly bronze with enough plastic to make it extrudable. You can then bake the plastic out and end up with some almost halfway decent parts. They're nowhere near serviceable for daily use (especially as rocket nozzles, which is his primary use lately), but it's a huge leap, for sure.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:03
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withak posted:Thin stamped-metal wrench makes for less of a heat sink when you put it on a hot nozzle. How long are you folks playing around with wrenches on a heater block/nozzle? I mean, I have arthritic fingers and neuropathy so it takes me a bit longer to change a nozzle than it used to but I've never had the wrench get hot enough to be a problem.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:28
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It's less about the wrench getting hot and more that the nozzle gets cold, which can be counterproductive when you're trying to tighten it down hot so it's sealed at normal printing temperatures, and if you cool it too much it will set off your printer's thermal runaway protection, too.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:31
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The problem is the machine detecting a runaway heating situation and turning off power to the hotend before the new nozzle gets seated.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:32
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I'm sorry your printer electronics are so weak that steel wrench (with a lower temperature conductivity than most aluminum heater blocks) causes you those kind of problems during something as simple as a nozzle change? I mean, I'm sure you could measure the temperature difference while the wrench is there but the amount of time that passes before the heater kicks back on should be low enough that it isn't a problem.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:42
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You don't need the heatsink to be at printing temp, it just needs to be heated up. Set temp, turn heating off, mount nozzle. Job done.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:50
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