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Motronic posted:That is definitely not cold enough, so sorry for assuming my climate H110Hawk posted:Have someone else to help? Steam up your shower with the fan off, go outside, and ask them to turn it on. You should get a puff of steam somewhere even if the air isn't right for it to condense. This is how I verified ours worked in 90f heat. Thanks I'll try the steamy shower if I can grab a neighbor or something; I don't think I have the finesse to handle an endoscope without breaking something unfortunately, so if all else fails I may just have to suck it up and get on the roof. Downstairs is correctly vented out the side so I don't think they wouldn't have properly vented the upstairs out the roof when the house was built, but everything renovated by PO was DIY or not correct so far as we've found and I can't just leave it up to trust. I can only see two exhausts (got water and furnace) and then plumbing vents on the roof so maybe it has those o hagen tile vents that blend in. Edit: I don't know how to walk on a tile roof and need to replace the underlayment soon anyways so I can probably figure this out with the roofer if I haven't in my own by then. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 04:56
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I had my furnace and AC replaced a few days ago with a high-efficiency system with modulating fans, condenser and gas valve along with a thermostat that can handle that (ecobee pro) BUT they used the same 4-wire thermostat wire, so everything is reading single stage at the thermostat. Is there any reason not to run as many conductors as possible? Can I use 18/8 sprinkler wire (I have lot left over) or should I really just get 18/7 or 18/10 thermostat wire? They didn't want to run wire due to my "finished ceiling" (drop ceiling), and I understand that. But I'll rip out drywall if I have to so I can get the features I was sold.
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Oct 23, 2021 12:46
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18/8 sprinkler will work fine, yes. Idk about getting the stat to recognize modulating eq equipment, you will need to post models
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Oct 23, 2021 13:27
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Fire Storm posted:I had my furnace and AC replaced a few days ago with a high-efficiency system with modulating fans, condenser and gas valve along with a thermostat that can handle that (ecobee pro) BUT they used the same 4-wire thermostat wire, so everything is reading single stage at the thermostat. They sold you a unit with a bunch of functionality disabled? You should give them permission to finish the job. You shouldn't pay variable pricing for single stage functionality.
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Oct 26, 2021 03:55
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Is there a good general consensus of what gas water boiler brands are solid? Looking to possibly replace an old Lochinvar boiler that was in the house we moved into last year. It's been there since 1993, and the heat exchanger is pretty corroded, and yesterday developed a pinhead sized hole in it, which caused water to leak a good bit. There are some other issues with it as well when I use the natural gas to heat the water rather than the outdoor wood furnace. When I try Google'ing boiler reviews, it's hard to tell how many are 'real' review sites, and not just trying to push A, B, and C brands over others. Only consideration would be that I have an outdoor wood furnace as well, and I kind of like feeding it during the winter, as it gives me something to do outside during the winter months. So I want to keep that functionality. Another important consideration is that I would prefer not to pay both an arm, and a leg. I appreciate any help
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Oct 26, 2021 04:30
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I suspect it's going to come down to the brand that a trusted local pro will install and service, but a local company I trust gave me a quote for a new boiler and it was Lochinvar.
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Oct 26, 2021 12:31
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FISHMANPET posted:I suspect it's going to come down to the brand that a trusted local pro will install and service, but a local company I trust gave me a quote for a new boiler and it was Lochinvar. Out of curiosity and if you don't mind me asking, what size (BTU) was the boiler and what was their price?
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Oct 26, 2021 19:52
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Question on A/C repairs. We have a refrigerant leak in our upstairs zone. It's a Trane XR13 that was installed around 2014. Haven't done a leak test to figure out where exactly it is yet, though. We have a yearly maintenance contract with a company, and have had for a few years now, but I recently realized that they're not an "authorized" Trane dealer. Not sure if that matters. So the questions are: 1) What's the most likely cost we should plan for here? I get without having done a leak test there's no real way of knowing, but the tech was ball parking around $3k for what the typical culprit is. The tech was also trying to push a total replacement (both A/C and furnace) saying the system is old and will just need more work soon... so a bit sketchy there IMO, given the age of the system, but I'm totally not an expert here. 2) Should we continue working with them going forward? Not for any specific reason other than they're not a Trane dealer. I really don't know how much this matters, if at all, but my assumption is that a Trane dealer can get parts quicker/cheaper and should have more insight to servicing them. Also follow-up: what's a good open-to-the-public site to buy spare parts like contactors and caps from? I know one of the caps is going bad and the above company wants $210 for it (even when they're already here on a tune-up visit), and I'm perfectly capable of DIYing that.
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Oct 27, 2021 13:39
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I'm not an HVAC pro like other posters in this thread. grain of salt and all that I buy my spare caps and contactors off Amazon. There's multiple HVAC supply companies that sell on there. I keep a spare of each on a shelf in the garage now, because yeah, I think I paid 185 for just labor last year when they replaced a cap for me. I don't know about parts availability and your question 2, but I'm going to guess (and this is 100% a guess), the leak is in your evaporator coil (formicary corrosion). My last house I had the same thing happen. It was roughly 1500 or 1600 dollars I think to have the evap coil replaced. The coil itself isn't terribly expensive (400-500) dollars, the rest is labor and recharging the system. If the rest of the system is in good shape, I would pay for the repair. I think my old Lennox system at the old house was 7 years old when I paid for the repair (2017 I think) , and occasionally I drive by the old neighborhood and the new owner still has the same A/C system so it's still running and will be 12 years old in Jan. If you should keep working with them or not... HVAC systems aren't terribly complicated, I don't think there's anything special about an XR13 that would require specialized tools or unique knowledge only a trane dealer would have. If the company is providing good service at a reasonable rate I don't see why you would end the relationship. It's hard to find good contractors. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 14:56
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I'm no hvac person but even in the most cynical of views 8 years is not old for an ac system. Certainly not a name brand one. We're into the slow season which means that they aren't moving a new unit/day. That's no excuse and they shouldn't be pushing replacement until they at least know where the issue is through a dye test. Is there any remaining warranty left on that trane unit? I would switch to a trane shop. If they aren't a trane shop they probably can't buy trane parts, hence the total replacement option. If your service contract was just a $100/yr filters and cleaning then don't put much weight behind it. If it was what amounts to an extended warranty with breakdown coverage... That's a "what did you intend to do here and where's my money back" sort of conversation.
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Oct 27, 2021 15:15
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MarksMan posted:Out of curiosity and if you don't mind me asking, what size (BTU) was the boiler and what was their price? I just checked the quote, and either it doesn't say the size (or it does and I can't decipher it from his chicken scratch) but I think the quote was just "new High Efficiency 95% Lochinvar Boiler". Our house is around 1300 sq ft, two stories (plus basement, but no radiators there) 4 radiators on each floor so 8 total. We currently have a steam boiler and exhausting into the chimney, so the quote included installing PVC pipe and a condensate pump for side venting, and converting all the radiators to Hot Water heat from Steam (thankfully we have the correct piping for that) and the quote was around $21k.
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Oct 27, 2021 22:11
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DaveSauce posted:Also follow-up: what's a good open-to-the-public site to buy spare parts like contactors and caps from? I know one of the caps is going bad and the above company wants $210 for it (even when they're already here on a tune-up visit), and I'm perfectly capable of DIYing that. Outside of Amazon (i.e. if you don't follow skipdogg's advice to keep spares on hand and need to find a spare Now), your next best bet is going to be either a shop that specializes in appliance parts, or a hardware store that happens to carry them. I've never found them at a regular LowesDepot but one of my local Ace stores has a shelf full of caps and contactors. The appliance parts shop across town has pretty much everything, including fans.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:32
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skipdogg posted:I'm not an HVAC pro like other posters in this thread. grain of salt and all that IOwnCalculus posted:Outside of Amazon (i.e. if you don't follow skipdogg's advice to keep spares on hand and need to find a spare Now), your next best bet is going to be either a shop that specializes in appliance parts, or a hardware store that happens to carry them. I've never found them at a regular LowesDepot but one of my local Ace stores has a shelf full of caps and contactors. The appliance parts shop across town has pretty much everything, including fans. I'm sketchy about Amazon these days, but if you guys have had good luck then I'll give it a shot. Problem I've always found is there's dozens of appliance parts sites that come up when you google, and it's nearly impossible to tell what's good versus what's a scam. Trouble with Amazon of course is... well, it's Amazon, and then aside from that there's always potential for counterfeits. There don't seem to be too many appliance shops around... searches get lots of big box stores, and plenty of mobile repair services, but very few parts shops. Absolutely intend to get a variety of caps and contactors, though. Between my 2 systems, I could probably get a full set of spares for the $210 that the service tech wants for a single cap. I mean, I get why they charge that much, but the labor is certainly in my wheelhouse. H110Hawk posted:I'm no hvac person but even in the most cynical of views 8 years is not old for an ac system. Certainly not a name brand one. We're into the slow season which means that they aren't moving a new unit/day. That's no excuse and they shouldn't be pushing replacement until they at least know where the issue is through a dye test. Apparently PO (or the installer) had registered everything... the one serial number I had handy pulled up all my systems on Trane's website, so that's handy. The only thing left on warranty for the unit that's leaking is the heat exchanger, so this is all going to be out out of pocket. That said, the other zone is a gas pack, and apparently the coil on that has a few years of warranty left so that's cool. I mean, that's assuming the warranty is valid... not sure what T/Cs were and if it's transferable or not. And the service I get... it's strictly cleaning/tune-up/etc. $270/year for 2 systems, gets me 2 visits and they clean coils, check motor current, check caps, check charge, etc. etc. Been mostly happy with it so far... the main gripe I have is that the UV lamp they installed to help keep the gas pack coils clean they don't service anymore... so instead of $180 for a replacement bulb like they said it would be, they want $575 for a new UV system or $700 for a "plasma generator." Near as I can tell the plasma generator is more of an IAQ hocus-pocus thing than a "keep the loving coils clean" thing...
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Oct 28, 2021 13:38
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DaveSauce posted:There don't seem to be too many appliance shops around... searches get lots of big box stores, and plenty of mobile repair services, but very few parts shops. This is the shop I use locally, and looks like they ship too: https://www.appliancepartscompany.com/product-category/hvac/capacitors
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Oct 28, 2021 15:53
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Not sure if I've posted this question in here, or if it was the home improvement forum ... But I'm trying to find out if there's such a thing as a thermostat with one or more remote sensors that will trigger the heat if either on of the sensors fall below the set temperature. There are three rooms on the same loop: a downstairs room, plus two upstairs bedrooms. The thermostat is in the downstairs room, which stays warm, and doesn't trip the thermostat until the upstairs bedrooms (where my kids sleep) are too cold to be comfortable. Is there anything on the market which will monitor the two upstairs bedrooms remotely?
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Oct 30, 2021 00:04
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null_pointer posted:Not sure if I've posted this question in here, or if it was the home improvement forum ... But I'm trying to find out if there's such a thing as a thermostat with one or more remote sensors that will trigger the heat if either on of the sensors fall below the set temperature. The Ecobee can do this. I have one with 3 or sensors for it and you can configure in the program which ones to use when figuring out when to run the HVAC. At night I have it utilize my bedroom sensor to keep it the right temperature for us.
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Oct 30, 2021 00:13
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null_pointer posted:Not sure if I've posted this question in here, or if it was the home improvement forum ... But I'm trying to find out if there's such a thing as a thermostat with one or more remote sensors that will trigger the heat if either on of the sensors fall below the set temperature. yes. ecobee can have remote sensors, and iirc honeywell sells a solution with wireless sensors as well.
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Oct 30, 2021 00:23
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Awesome. Looks like the Ecobee even has a power adapter for setups without a C-wire. Thank you!
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Oct 30, 2021 00:38
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Mario posted:Yes, it's indeed strange. Zone pumps 2 & 3 come on when the thermo for zone 2 calls for heat. They are wired together on the zone control relay board (whose zone 3 is controlling nothing). Trip report: Ran the wire, sorted the zone relay board connections, all is well. Thanks again!
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Oct 30, 2021 18:36
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So, my full HVAC system is being torn out, and the new furnace will be a condensing furnace, which as I understand it will produce a moderately acidic condensate. Due to the house geometry and my encapsulated crawlspace, I will need a condensate pump to handle the discharge and take it outside my foundation - I previously had a temporary Everbilt homedepot special handling my AC discharge, but now I'm wondering if I need something like a neutralizing pump, or at least something that is more robust to the acidic condensate (also something more reliable in general). I also could be way off base entirely, so please feel free to course correct me entirely. Thanks! edit: worth pointing out this is just going to drain into my yard somewhere, not into a sewer/septic ROJO fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Nov 2, 2021 |
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Nov 2, 2021 18:56
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Yes, you’ll need a neutralizing pump. If you’re not pumping, you still need to run the condensate to a neutralizing kit before it goes to your drain. Neutralizers are really just a bunch of limestone. You’ll need to replenish that every so often.
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Nov 3, 2021 02:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:I liked it a lot, I'm going to have them come out and do a 20 SEER at my new house because the heat pump here is almost as old as the one that blew up last summer. So this happened today. Ended up with an Amana variable-speed inverter system. Took a big-rear end check because new house needed a five ton unit, along with fixing design/build issues in the original setup. The original system only had a single return so a second one was added across the house. The bedrooms on the same side of the house as the air handler were fed off of a single duct, and the feed into the room we're using as a home office now was just a T-junction so most of the air was blasting right past it instead of into the office. So that got its own direct feed. At low speeds I'm pretty sure the loudest sound outside is the loving refrigerant. It's going to be a solid four or five months before it really gets pushed hard, but I've got a summer's worth of power usage data on the old ~11 SEER system to see how much of a difference this makes.
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Nov 4, 2021 05:54
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I have natural gas forced air furnace (a Goodman, maybe 5 years old). Yesterday the heat was, today it is not. The furnace will click on, and make a noise but it's not combustion or the blower fan. After awhile the noise stops
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Nov 5, 2021 14:46
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I have natural gas forced air furnace (a Goodman, maybe 5 years old). Yesterday the heat was, today it is not. The furnace will click on, and make a noise but it's not combustion or the blower fan. Take off the bottom panel and look at the circuit board down there. It should have a code on it, either lights on/off or an actual segment display depending on model. Get your actual model number off of the sticker and search for it on google and you should pretty immediately find the maintenance/install manual that will tell you what those code(s) mean. We can probably help you from there in regards to what to replace or if this is a "call someone" repair.
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Nov 5, 2021 14:59
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Motronic posted:Take off the bottom panel and look at the circuit board down there. It should have a code on it, either lights on/off or an actual segment display depending on model. Goodman GMS80804BNBE, 3 flashes of the lights According to a manual for "GMS8" that means: • Pressure switch hose blocked, pinched or connected improperly. • Blocked flue or weak induced draft blower. • Incorrect pressure switch setpoint or malfunctioning switch contacts. • Loose or improperly connected wiring.
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Nov 5, 2021 22:31
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Goodman GMS80804BNBE, 3 flashes of the lights So when you call for heat, do you hear a fan start up? That would be the draft fan (the one in the upper part of the case). I don't think it can tell those first 2, probably 3 things unless the fan is actually running first. If you have no fan starting I'd want to check the wiring to the fan to make sure it's getting voltage and check/replace the fan. One of the actual HVAC people in this thread will probably have some tricks/tips on this and other things to check. I'm just a guy who used to have a very similar unit in my barn, improperly installed in and unconditioned space, and saw that problem a lot as it got below freezing and I'd have to jam a lightbulb in there to get it warm enough to start (don't do things like that, I'm a terrible person). Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 23:58
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Motronic posted:So when you call for heat, do you hear a fan start up? That would be the draft fan (the one in the upper part of the case). I don't think it can tell those first 2, probably 3 things unless the fan is actually running first. Yes the fan starts and runs and then the 3 blinks start, but not the blower fan.
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Nov 6, 2021 00:01
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Yes the fan starts and runs and then the 3 blinks start, but not the blower fan. Oh good, then you're probably looking at the sensor. Easy first check.......see that black tube that comes out of the airbox the draft fan is attached to? It goes to the sensor that lets it know the fan is running/flue not clogged. Take that tube off and make sure it's clean and clear, as well as the ports on both sides of where you took it off. And even more basic.....make sure the thing is actually attached and hasn't just wiggled off one side or the other. And that it doesn't have any holes/rips/tears in it. I know there is a way to test that sensor with a multimeter, but that's again something I'll leave to the hvac pros here. I'd have to dig through the manual/look it up, so I'd just be regurgitating google knowledge. E: I just remembered something else that does this. If the box the draft fan is on filled up with condensate. There should be a drain hose (or two). Squoosh those around with your fingers and see if it breaks up any clog that might be in there. Take them off of the box (be ready for nasty water to come out). If you get water out then figure out where the condensate drain clog is, clean it out and you should be back in business. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 6, 2021 00:42
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http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1249544712473/Goodman-GMS8-GDS8-GHS8-Furnace-Installation%20Instructions-Instructions.pdf turn your hymnal to page 30/31 the pressure switch is a black pastic can thing with two wires coming out and a hose that goes into the furnace somewhere. if the draft fan is working, then something is preventing the switch from seeing the air pressure that fan is making. you should start with cleaning the drains and hoses, just do them one at a time and put them back where they came from.
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Nov 6, 2021 01:26
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Checked the hose, seems fine, checked the sensor with a multimeter, seems fine. I didn't see any drain hoses, may be because it's also a an AC unit. There's a 1/2 or so pvc pipe coming from the AC condenser that goes to the drain pump. Called HVAC company and they are 3 days behind for emergency calls yikes. Tonight is the first night below freezing pray 4 me The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 6, 2021 01:50
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You can try replacing the draft inducer if you can get the part over the counter somewhere. It could be turning but not enough / slowly. It turned but the bearing was about to seize up so it wouldn't actually blow. Also make sure rats haven't chewed any wires. A story of the two times my gas furnace failed. Wires I fixed myself, inducer I had a company out because I wanted heat before I could get a motor.
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Nov 6, 2021 03:06
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Need some help wiring in a new Aprilaire 600M. I don't seem to be getting 24vdc to the solenoid during a heating call right now. I've verified continuity across the humidistat with the dial cranked up. I've got it all wired to the HUM and C terminals on my furnace board. Humidifier wiring diagram:  Furnace diagram:  And some generic Aprilaire diagrams I found online. I have a fairly new Guardian furnace, maybe 2015. I'm going off detail 3, though with just a manual controller.  The furnace is controlled by an ecobee 3, but I don't yet have the humidifier wired up to it. Not sure that matters here but figured I'd mention. Any help with be appreciated!
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Nov 6, 2021 22:10
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what voltage do you get from HUM to C when there is 24v from W to C (when the stat is calling for heat) be careful measuring this. iirc a lot of HUM terminals provide 120v.
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Nov 6, 2021 22:53
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Hey you're right the writing diagram clearly shows the HUM connections are 115V. So I need a step down transformer I guess. Why wouldn't they just supply 24V for humidifiers? Are there any don't take that for the controls?
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Nov 7, 2021 00:17
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you may have smoked your solenoid and / or model 50 relay, at this point. measure ohms on the solenoid.
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Nov 7, 2021 00:54
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Infinity on the coil so I'm guessing I smoked it. Sigh.
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Nov 7, 2021 01:29
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Bird in a Blender posted:If you’re not pumping, you still need to run the condensate to a neutralizing kit before it goes to your drain. Neutralizers are really just a bunch of limestone. You’ll need to replenish that every so often. Hrmmmm. I have a 98% efficient gas furnace and the condensate line is draining directly to my basement’s French drain and then the sump. Will I dissolve my house? e: it’s not really a French drain, but just the dirt gap in the basement between the poured slab and the concrete foundation DkHelmet fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 02:00
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Its a very weak acid, if you let it drain across the floor it will dissolve a channel in the concrete. Its a requirement in plumbing code to neutralize because the acid from everyone's condensing furnace/boiler/whatever at once would dump too much acid back to the water treatment plant. If you have a septic and leach field, you should also neutralize, but you can probably ignore it for a decade before it becomes a problem.
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Nov 7, 2021 02:35
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Oh jeez, should I be concerned about the acidity of the condensate drains of my new mini-split system that just drains those into the grass? Also the joys of a Minnesota fall, during the day it's 65 and sunny (heating up the house to over 70) and at night it gets down into the 50s. Because reasons, opening windows doesn't really do anything for cooling off the house when it cools down outside. I'm guessing that because it's cold outside that it's easy for the heat pump outside to discharge heat, so running the mini-splits in cooling mode isn't going to be using a whole lot of energy, right?
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Nov 7, 2021 04:55
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No, condensation out of an ac unit and condensation from a natural gas/propane furnace are different. Burning light hydrocarbons produces water/c02, And in order to get the most heat bang for your buck, you send the hot gas through a secondary heat exchanger and drain off the water, which has small amounts of various acids in it. This will (very) slowly corrode away anything bare metal or cement. Ac and heat pump condensation is just water plus whatever gunk gets pulled out of the air with it (dust, mold, hair). No need to treat that with anything other than simple green every few years.
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Nov 7, 2021 05:36
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