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slidebite posted:Remember, there is more to it than running a gas stub. They electrical isn't rocket science but you do need to vent it. Either through the wall or ceiling/roof. Personally, I found that more intimidating to do properly than anything else and I had my home builder do it. Luckily it's relatively easy to vent either up or straight back out the wall. I should have had the builder install the heater and vent, but oh well. I'll check the Modine and Reznor units out though. Motronic, what do you mean by inline? We've got the big radiant tube heaters at work, and they're amazing, but I think I'd be at the low end for ceiling height. They're 12', but between storage shelves and LED fixtures, the more compact I can go the better.
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Oct 31, 2021 20:56
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PitViper posted:Motronic, what do you mean by inline? We've got the big radiant tube heaters at work, and they're amazing, but I think I'd be at the low end for ceiling height. They're 12', but between storage shelves and LED fixtures, the more compact I can go the better. These aren't exactly it, but it's similar to what I recall seeing: https://www.amazon.com/SunStar-Heat...&language=en_US Looks like they are 10" high, might need clearance above, not sure. Depending on your layout it might be more workable than a big reznor hanging in a corner.
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Oct 31, 2021 21:09
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Motronic posted:These aren't exactly it, but it's similar to what I recall seeing: Dad had those type of heaters in his old out building. No real down side, they work, and keep everything warm. He had 10" clearance to the mounting joists and there was a truss structure above, so clearance wasn't an issue. I prefer something fan-driven, though. (Fan-driven in the heat distribution, the infrared heaters above have a fan that pushes the burning fuel through the tubes.)
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Oct 31, 2021 22:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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Yeah, we've got three big 20' heaters like that for the shop at work. They're great for warming people and objects instead of the air, but they're probably 14' overhead with another 10-12' to the steel trusses of the roof. I'd probably have to mount one with about 4-6" of clearance to the ceiling, and it'd mess with my back row of lighting. Plus they're not as great if you start getting any airflow from outside, and with 4 big 10x14' overhead doors on the north side of the building, we get a big blast of Minnesota winter every time we move a car in/out. I'd have to move one 4' fixture for one of the Modine heaters, but I can probably mount it almost flush to the ceiling, and put it far enough from the two walls to still have good access to the shelves in that corner. And 45k BTU should give a nice quick recovery, since it's only 24x30. I'll probably hire out for the venting, since I don't know that I'm comfortable cutting holes in the roof.
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Nov 1, 2021 02:31
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lol, no. Sorry.
Bomb-omb Texting fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Nov 1, 2021 |
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Nov 1, 2021 04:24
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ionn posted:Oooh nice! I have the very same model. About twice as much lathe as I have any business operating, but it sure gets it done. It's a hefty bit of kit, and I have so much to learn about it. The threading gearbox is a mystery, and I haven't got the cross slide feed to work yet.
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Nov 1, 2021 10:49
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afen posted:It's a hefty bit of kit, and I have so much to learn about it. The threading gearbox is a mystery, and I haven't got the cross slide feed to work yet. Do you have a manual? If not, I can arrange some kind of copy of mine. I haven't tried any heathen (inchies) threading and that bit seems somewhat weird, but once you know what the different levers do the rest of it mostly makes sense. I haven't had a reason to go inside the apron gearbox though, where I assume the problem might be if the carriage feed works but the cross slide doesn't (its the same mechanism up until that four way lever on the apron). There are some shear pins somewhere, which should be a pretty easy fix. Apparently you can still get parts for this thing from Slovakia. Mine has a slightly bent compound leadscrew that I should replace (I can only use about half the travel on it before it binds up), but I still haven't gotten around to actually contacting them about it.
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Nov 1, 2021 14:27
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Living room tv got upgraded and the old 55” moved to our bedroom. The 32” we had in there I moved out to the garage. Conveniently it fits nicely right over the rear exit door. I already had OTA coax and power in the area for exactly this occasion. A Fire stick connects to my existing Bluetooth 2.0 speaker system for the audio so now i can stop using my phone to control music out here.
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Nov 4, 2021 19:27
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ionn posted:Do you have a manual? If not, I can arrange some kind of copy of mine. I haven't tried any heathen (inchies) threading and that bit seems somewhat weird, but once you know what the different levers do the rest of it mostly makes sense. I have some manuals, but they're pretty cryptic. Here's what I have, if you have another manual I would love to have it: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1vS6XyH7Trvx1zLRKOMdXIrrd4CtT4j6r?usp=sharing Do you know where the pins are located? My compound has some sort of issue as well, it binds about 3-4cm before the end of travel. Haven't had time to look into that, and I probably won't for a while since the motor went kaput the other day. You can buy a new one, but they're pretty expensive, so I'm looking for a used one.
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Nov 5, 2021 21:46
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devmd01 posted:Living room tv got upgraded and the old 55” moved to our bedroom. The 32” we had in there I moved out to the garage. Conveniently it fits nicely right over the rear exit door. I already had OTA coax and power in the area for exactly this occasion. A Fire stick connects to my existing Bluetooth 2.0 speaker system for the audio so now i can stop using my phone to control music out here. ooh I like that little green tin sign!
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Nov 5, 2021 22:27
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It matches really well with the Art Deco style of the Monaco GP poster of the same year that is above the workbench. Even picked it up along the Seine in view of the Notre dame for extra inauthenticity. IMS did an entire run of a whole bunch of event program covers; I have them on the doors of all my upper cabinets.    devmd01 fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 6, 2021 00:03
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What's the easiest way to occasionally heat a two-car garage? I'm in Illinois and renting so I can't install anything permanent. All I'm interested in is warming my garage to a somewhat-tolerable temperature when I need to go out there and work on something for a couple hours in the winter.
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Nov 28, 2021 05:54
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FBS posted:What's the easiest way to occasionally heat a two-car garage? I'm in Illinois and renting so I can't install anything permanent. All I'm interested in is warming my garage to a somewhat-tolerable temperature when I need to go out there and work on something for a couple hours in the winter. I've got one of these https://www.princessauto.com/en/5000w-240v-electric-shop-heater/product/PA0008993271 mounted and it does a great job of heating my 3car. Before that I used a similar construction heater: https://www.princessauto.com/en/4800w-240v-electric-industrial-shop-heater/product/PA0008938441
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Nov 28, 2021 06:21
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Even a little 110v heater will add enough to a garage to make it work in a pinch, at least for the area you point it at. Unless your garage is super drafty or uninsulated. I had a very slightly leaky but attached and insulated garage in Denver that would get down in the 40's and a basic 1000w heater would pull it right up to tolerable.
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Nov 28, 2021 10:46
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We keep a small radiant space heater in the garage to keep it above 65 degrees all winter. As LloydDobler said unless it's super cold and your garage is super drafty you don't need a ton of heat capacity. This is the one we use 
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Nov 28, 2021 11:00
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A propane heater will get the garage nice and toasty in pretty short order. Downsides: you have to buy propane for it and it exchanges oxygen for carbon dioxide.
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Nov 29, 2021 17:27
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Those little propane Mr Heater units with the fan are great. Probably want to get a CO detector too.
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Nov 29, 2021 19:23
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Holiday bonus gets me a new workbench/storage chest. I realized I never took a before picture, this one is the best I have. Look at this clutter: New hotness. Now to figure out what to put in it. I have certain drawers on my main tool box that are overflowing, the lesser used tools are going in here. Also mounted my bin rack on the wall.  This chest is by far the best value at Home Depot. 46" for $400. the next size down is like $375 and the next size up is almost $600. The 72" 18 drawer is $1200, you could buy two of these and have more storage, and not one massive box. Dunno what the deal is other than the standard loss leader? Anyway I got one, might someday go back and get another. Ooo, just realized I bought a bunch of good machinist tools (micrometers, calipers, etc) that are in an inaccessible bin. They belong in this box. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Dec 2, 2021 |
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Dec 2, 2021 05:08
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LloydDobler posted:Holiday bonus gets me a new workbench/storage chest. I realized I never took a before picture, this one is the best I have. Look at this clutter: I really really dig that hanging bin rack. That's good poo poo. I've got the 60" Husky with the flip up pegboard and I'm really happy with it. I've also got the 5 drawer HF cart for some overflow but it's mostly empty now.
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Dec 2, 2021 14:20
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Nice, I'm eyeing that exact chest.
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Dec 2, 2021 14:36
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I've been eyeballing the 72", mostly to have some extra wide drawers but also the adjustable height work surface. The economics of two smaller boxes are very tempting though. How's the work surface set up - could it be easily drilled to mount a vise?
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Dec 2, 2021 14:52
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I think so, I'm not 100% sure it'd be solid enough but it's pretty solid. Just drill through into the drawer. And you could always back it up with more wood, even another piece of 1/2" ply would stiffen it up a lot if you glued or screwed it on. It's screwed down from the inside, so you'd have to pull the top drawer or two to remove it and fully customize it. Maybe see if they have replacement tops and just double it up. edit: The real solution would be to get some 1/4" or 3/8" steel plate cut and drilled to match the vise base, and then back up the steel and wood top from the inside of the drawer. there's a good 1-2 inches above the drawer opening for that. Then it'd be hella stout. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Dec 2, 2021 |
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Dec 2, 2021 23:45
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LloydDobler posted:Holiday bonus gets me a new workbench/storage chest. I realized I never took a before picture, this one is the best I have. Look at this clutter: Same price as the Harbor Freight chest that looks drat near the same. Harbor Freight used to have deals! What happened to them.
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Dec 2, 2021 23:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've been eyeballing the 72", mostly to have some extra wide drawers but also the adjustable height work surface. The economics of two smaller boxes are very tempting though. I've got a vise and a grinder mounted to mine. Far as I can tell, the wood is removable but I haven't tried that experiment yet.
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Dec 3, 2021 00:29
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I've got that same box as lloyddobler and have had it for several years with no problems. If I had to guess I'd say the HF box is exactly the same, at least I couldn't tell the difference when I saw one at my local HF a little while ago.
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Dec 6, 2021 02:20
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So I'm looking to insulate my detached two car so I can work without dying in there (Detroit). The problem is my overhead joists barely hold themselves up so forget about drywall and insulation. I've been considering foil backed and taped poly iso as that's much, much lighter, but I'll be doing hot work in there at times and well... fire hazards and all that. Anybody try using this stuff in the past? Success? Concerns? It doesn't have to meet code for occupancy but is it really risky for catching fire or just not enough to slow fire spread like drywall? Just looking to reduce cost and avoid redoing my joists completely.
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Dec 7, 2021 16:19
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Sounds like you need load bearing drywall.  No real input on fire resistant materials though since you're on a budget and the ones I'm familiar with are not inexpensive. Seriously though, if you're concerned about your joists/trusses not supporting a few sheets of drywall, I think you have bigger problems.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:59
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Dave Inc. posted:So I'm looking to insulate my detached two car so I can work without dying in there (Detroit). The problem is my overhead joists barely hold themselves up so forget about drywall and insulation. I've been considering foil backed and taped poly iso as that's much, much lighter, but I'll be doing hot work in there at times and well... fire hazards and all that. Foamboard will make the fire danger higher. Do not use that unless you can cover it. In almost every code book it has to be covered by at least a 30 minute fire barrier. Drywall is the absolute least expensive means of fire blocking. If your joists can't handle sheets of 3/8" drywall (about 1.4 lbs/sq ft) you probably shouldn't be inside of that structure.
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Dec 8, 2021 22:19
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Motronic posted:Foamboard will make the fire danger higher. Do not use that unless you can cover it. In almost every code book it has to be covered by at least a 30 minute fire barrier. Especially in a place with snow. Post pictures and we can help evaluate.
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Dec 8, 2021 22:35
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Probably not what you want to hear from a DIY perspective, but doesn't that spray-in foam insulation have some structural properties? https://accufoam.com/spray-foam-structural-strength/
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Dec 9, 2021 00:23
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sharkytm posted:Especially in a place with snow. Post pictures and we can help evaluate. I read that as Evacuate.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:39
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Maybe I exaggerated the joist situation. It's a 22x24 structure with 7 2x6 joists. It's been there for decades so I'm not worried about it, no sag or warping, I'd just have to reinforce it if I wanted to hang drywall and that seems more pain than it's worth. I was looking at foil backed EPS which has as low a flame spread as drywall it's just not fire rated.
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Dec 9, 2021 02:35
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Dave Inc. posted:has low a flame spread as drywall it's just not fire rated. 
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Dec 9, 2021 02:50
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The way I understand it drywall can spread flame across its surface but not let it permeate. It provides a barrier slowing the spread from room to room. I mean right now the garage surfaces are just plywood, foil backed EPS can't be worse. Edit: EPS won't really burn unless exposed to a very hot fire, but it will almost immediately shrink and melt, off gassing all sorts of nasty poo poo. It provides no protection between rooms so a fire could rip through a building, but it's just a single room garage. Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 03:41
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Dave Inc. posted:I mean right now the garage surfaces are just plywood, foil backed EPS can't be worse. It can be, and it is.
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Dec 9, 2021 15:06
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Motronic posted:It can be, and it is. Oh I see it now, it won't burn on its own until it reaches a certain temperature and then the whole thing just goes WOOMPH as the released gasses combust. Not good. That said, what's a good suggestion for a ceiling with joists on 48" centers? Or is "more joists" just the answer? Photo! https://imgur.com/a/jsuZONw The span is 22', 2x6 joists on 48" centers. There's some sort of wacky "beam" (flat 2x4 sliced together...) running perpendicular on top of the joists with three braces from the roof peak. Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 19:12
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"more joists" yes, but also they don't need to be 2x6es. 2x4 is probably sufficient and what is typically done in pole barn construction to give enough attachment points for ceilings. (and 1x3 "fake studs" for the walls).
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Dec 9, 2021 20:05
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I’m not sure if there’s a US equivalent, but Rondo would fit the bill down under. Handles 4’ spans ok, smooths out some unevenness in the joists, and not terribly expensive.
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Dec 10, 2021 10:40
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ionn posted:Do you have a manual? If not, I can arrange some kind of copy of mine. I haven't tried any heathen (inchies) threading and that bit seems somewhat weird, but once you know what the different levers do the rest of it mostly makes sense. I got the feeds working, I just needed to put the levers in the right place.
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Dec 20, 2021 17:34
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Realized I had some scrap wood sitting around that was perfect for shelving so I added a couple more to the garage above the cabinet with stickers. You can never have too much storage. 
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Jan 1, 2022 02:26
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