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Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

I see nothing that would prevent you from doing so. It uses all standard parts, and the case is a common midtower that shouldn't present any compatibility issues.

Great! Thanks to the advice here and other places where I’ve asked, I decided to go for it and order that prebuilt.

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

DerekSmartymans posted:

I was pretty sure of that (same with DDR5 RAM), but the WiFi 6 and Bluetooth built in saved me room and/or USB slots, and the “boosted” settings help a bunch at my resolution and frame rate!

Mind linking me where your “quick look” source is, though? I totally believe you are right, but as I approach 50 (my 47th is today!) my Google-fu seems to get worse. I would like to know generally how you find stuff like this just so I don’t have to ramble on and junk up a thread!

Edit:
Questions answered by two posters right under the quoted post! I appreciate all the helpful (and patient) explaining. I can’t believe how far I’ve fallen mentally with my word association. It affects simple terms waaay more than technical words, so I can look at an MRI from Hawaii for a schoolmate, but can’t figure out how to make “compatible chip” work on Google searching :argh: .

Googling PC part stuff is like 90% term familiarity.

DerekSmartymans
Feb 14, 2005

The
Copacetic
Ascetic

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Googling PC part stuff is like 90% term familiarity.

I remember when you could Ask Jeeves, and he was usually good for a grammar-friendly question and response. I get dumber as I get older, and I’ve had a much better experience here by (1)read the op, (2)read the last 5-8 pages, and (3)ask the people who are posting because they enjoy and have at the least a hobbyist’s knowledge already. I put my time in the trenches of Usenet, and most folk are really, really happy to expound for an innocent n00b’s respectful questioning. Goons left here after 2011-ish are here by choice and everybody likes to teach whether they even realize it or not!

I say this as a person who learned from a thread like this how to build lots of computers for years and years, but just will never learn ALL situations or protips available itt.

Br3instyrm
Jan 3, 2013
Hi!
I'm struggling with an old HP Pavilion 500-203eo that I've gotten for free from a friend. Modded Xcom 2 has ridiculous load times and I'm considering either doubling my ram or replacing it completely to reach 16GB. I replaced the aging graphics card with a 1650GTX, but the computer is a mess of bottlenecks. Memory is DDR3, Micron Technology 16JTF1G64AZ-1G6E1 8GB, and I have windows 10 on a 1TB traditional hard drive. Is it better to just buy completely new RAM for best dual channel support or try to get a compatible 8gig module? SSD upgrade is still a bit too expensive for me, I'd rather replace the main hard disk completely with an bigger SSD if possible.
I live in Finland and I'm trying to do low budget quality of life upgrades to this ancient machine. I know that I have to throw almost everything away if I want to upgrade to win 11 and modern processors.

Br3instyrm fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Nov 6, 2021

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?

Br3instyrm posted:

Hi!
I'm struggling with an old HP Pavilion 500-203eo that I've gotten for free from a friend. Modded Xcom 2 has ridiculous load times and I'm considering either doubling my ram or replacing it completely to reach 16GB. I replaced the aging graphics card with a 1650GTX, but the computer is a mess of bottlenecks. Memory is DDR3, Micron Technology 16JTF1G64AZ-1G6E1 8GB, and I have windows 10 on a 1TB traditional hard drive. Is it better to just buy completely new RAM for best dual channel support or try to get a compatible 8gig module? SSD upgrade is still a bit too expensive for me, I'd rather replace the main hard disk completely with an bigger SSD if possible.
I live in Finland and I'm trying to do low budget ease of use upgrades to this ancient machine. I know that I have to throw almost everything away if I want to upgrade to win 11 and modern processors.


Just based on my experience, it's hard to overstate how big a difference an SSD makes. It's like leaving the stone age. If you're not building a new pc, I would absolutely prioritize that upgrade above everything else.

Zedsdeadbaby
Jun 14, 2008

You have been called out, in the ways of old.
Going from HDD to SSD was the single largest upgrade I ever carried out. Platter drives are the largest bottleneck in any system no matter any configuration. You could claim to travel to the distant future and got an i9 69420 CPU and it's still not going to match the change in performance of moving to an SSD

It's like inventing fire during the stone age, a real holy what the gently caress moment

Br3instyrm
Jan 3, 2013
Yeah, that what I'm thinking too, it's just that SSD upgrade is about 100 to 200 euros, depending on if I want a 1TB drive or 2. Memory upgrade might be just 40 to 90 euros. Would the SSD still be a significant upgrade even with the slowish 8gigs of ram in a single channel configuration?

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Br3instyrm posted:

I live in Finland and I'm trying to do low budget quality of life upgrades to this ancient machine. I know that I have to throw almost everything away if I want to upgrade to win 11 and modern processors.

It can't be emphatically stated enough, get an SSD. Buying old DDR3 ram is throwing away money on a dead platform, whatever SSD storage you can afford will still be useful to throw in a new system whenever you can afford that.

Zedsdeadbaby
Jun 14, 2008

You have been called out, in the ways of old.
Yes

Trust me, the HDD holds back performance way way way more than anything else you have, by a massive distance

SSDs are the closest thing to literal magic in PC hardware, they will turbo-charge even the slowest, oldest, crustiest systems

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Br3instyrm posted:

Yeah, that what I'm thinking too, it's just that SSD upgrade is about 100 to 200 euros, depending on if I want a 1TB drive or 2.

You don't have to buy a 1tb SSD if you can't afford it, it's an arbitrary decision that you have to fully replace the HDD and match or better its capacity. Just get a 256 or 500gb SSD for the time being which is plenty of room for windows and some games and keep your HDD for media storage.

Br3instyrm
Jan 3, 2013
Ok, final question. Is it better to just get a SSD that's the same size as my old HDD and clone the drive over (since I really dislike reinstalling windows over and over again) or try to save up to a bigger SSD? I have Sandisk 128gb SSD as an external drive, but it's an ancient drive harvested from a dead laptop and I've only used it as a transfer drive to move stuff between computers. I have a habit of hoarding installed games, so the 1TB feels like a minimum size for a new drive.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

There's nothing wrong with loading some games off an HDD if they're games with inherently short and/or infrequent load times, like many indie games or games that stream everything in (most HDDs are fast enough for that). I have around 2.5TB of SSD storage and 2.5TB of HDD storage and I keep games on both. (though it's mostly media on the hdds now that I have two NVMe drives)

You can mirror the HDD to the SSD or you can start with a fresh windows install, but however you decide to do it, you should definitely be booting off the SSD and running your core apps off of it. It will make your windows using experience so much faster.

Dick Trauma
Nov 30, 2007

God damn it, you've got to be kind.
Back in 2015 this thread helped me assemble my first PC. It's been a great machine but I'm starting to experience some weirdness with the graphics card and motherboard so I decided it's time for a replacement. I managed to grab a decent video card locally and save it for a rainy day, but the other components are question marks. Both builds are below.

I still play at 1080 (I find higher resolution LCDs are too hard on my old eyes) so I don't expect I will stress the machine too much, but I don't mind overbuilding a little if that helps keep the noise down. A bigger case than the 250d was necessary to allow for how large modern video cards are. I'm fine with an AIO for cooling unless that is massive overkill/noisy. I would like a motherboard that has modern features like protection against BIOS scrambling, wifi, etc.

Old 2015 build:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus Z97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($379.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 CL10 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4 GB GAMING Video Card
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case
Total: $434.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-06 10:17 EDT-0400

New build:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-10700K 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition 57.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($32.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z490 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB DUAL OC Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Corsair)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.88 @ Other World Computing)
Total: $1137.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-06 10:18 EDT-0400

EDIT: Forgot to ask... would it be crazy to migrate the hard drives to the new machine? Both the main drive and bulk storage are pretty new, and I was thinking that if I preloaded them with the MB and other drivers I might be able to just transfer them over.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
if you're buying intel i'd seriously consider 12th gen, for less than the 320 bucks you are paying can get a i5-12600K which will loving destroy it - six much faster performance cores with hyperthreading and six efficiency cores for background tasks means you wind up with 24 rather than 16 threads. you'd need a more expensive mobo but you're already paying almost 200 bucks for it the jump won't be too step.

it will be ludicrous overkill for 1080p regardless. what's the refresh rate of your target monitor, is it 1080p 60hz? if so you're overbuying by a lot, you should probably consider a monitor upgrade too.

Zedsdeadbaby
Jun 14, 2008

You have been called out, in the ways of old.

Br3instyrm posted:

Ok, final question. Is it better to just get a SSD that's the same size as my old HDD and clone the drive over (since I really dislike reinstalling windows over and over again) or try to save up to a bigger SSD? I have Sandisk 128gb SSD as an external drive, but it's an ancient drive harvested from a dead laptop and I've only used it as a transfer drive to move stuff between computers. I have a habit of hoarding installed games, so the 1TB feels like a minimum size for a new drive.

A reformat is always better.

Just a word of advice when you do - make sure the HDD is unplugged entirely when you install, format and put windows on the new SSD. I had a nasty issue a couple of weeks ago with my new nvme drive where Windows put its bootloader on the old drive it replaced, despite it fully wiped and not being used at all. So when I took the old drive out after fitting the new nvme drive, Windows refused to boot.

SSDs improve gaming performance too, just so you know. It's mostly loading/streaming assets that benefits. You'll see less stutter and much faster loading times.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Br3instyrm posted:

Hi!
I'm struggling with an old HP Pavilion 500-203eo that I've gotten for free from a friend. Modded Xcom 2 has ridiculous load times and I'm considering either doubling my ram or replacing it completely to reach 16GB. I replaced the aging graphics card with a 1650GTX, but the computer is a mess of bottlenecks. Memory is DDR3, Micron Technology 16JTF1G64AZ-1G6E1 8GB, and I have windows 10 on a 1TB traditional hard drive. Is it better to just buy completely new RAM for best dual channel support or try to get a compatible 8gig module? SSD upgrade is still a bit too expensive for me, I'd rather replace the main hard disk completely with an bigger SSD if possible.
I live in Finland and I'm trying to do low budget quality of life upgrades to this ancient machine. I know that I have to throw almost everything away if I want to upgrade to win 11 and modern processors.

doubling your ram will be unlikely to impact load times at all, afaik that's all CPU and storage. you're actually in the situation i outlined before, sec:

CoolCab posted:

i would also give a slightly dissenting opinion on HDDs? people get this really, really twisted because they remember the dark ages of loading a game off the same drive your OS is running from. this is a bad idea - any drive your OS is running from is constantly reading/writing system files, and since that takes up an adequate-to-significant amount of your bandwidth of course it means games take for loving ever to load. don't configure your poo poo like this, OS on the fastest drive and games somewhere else.

because, and this is really important, the primary bottleneck when loading a game specifically is typically CPU, not your storage. the game pulls all the compressed data from your disk, HDD or SDD, decompresses it into something your engine can process and you're away. which is to say you hit the "ceiling" with load speed very quickly- you can throw the fanciest NVME 3D nand high tech whatever you want at it, it can only address part of the problem - it won't let your chip decompress those files any faster. this is why the difference between game load time of SATA SSDs, SATA m.2 and SATA NVME are borderline identical despite on paper them having a massive gap.

for this reason quick smaller SSD + big old HDD is a very good price/performance sweet spot. move anything you get a competitive advantage loading in faster after a crash (eg Apex) and whatever else you play a lot, and stick your older stuff on a barracuda or something. again so long as it's not also doing something else, like hosting the OS or doing a gigantic transfer or something, a HDD in this config ain't bad and is very kind to your wallet.

even if you changed nothing but sticking a puny 128 gig SSD in there, which go for like twenty bucks, and just put your windows install on you will see LARGE responsiveness and load performance gains, particularly in game loads.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Dick Trauma posted:

EDIT: Forgot to ask... would it be crazy to migrate the hard drives to the new machine? Both the main drive and bulk storage are pretty new, and I was thinking that if I preloaded them with the MB and other drivers I might be able to just transfer them over.

not crazy at all, people do it all the time. you could also go a little cheaper on storage (like the thread fav wd SN550) and probably not notice any change in game load performance for the reasons outlined in my previous post.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
e: @Br3instyrm if you're running in single channel which i'm not clear you are (ie, only one stick of ram) then yes you should get another, that significantly impacts CPU performance and as such might influence loads but the SSD is more important imo.

go on secondhand places DDR3 is cheap as chips. don't buy it new, very silly imo.

Br3instyrm
Jan 3, 2013
Yeah, it's in single channel configuration now and part of the trouble is trying to locate compatible ram if I try to get it in dual channel mode. Would it just be better to buy 16gb kit used then? And yes, the single HDD is ridiculously slow especially in open world games and other games that stream assets on the fly.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
have a look at what's available. two different sticks is not ideal but not a disaster by any means - lowest common denominator, you get the performance of your worst stick. when i search facebook market this is what i see:



even the 2x4 will do a little better, dual channel is very important.

roomforthetuna
Mar 22, 2005

I don't need to know anything about virii! My CUSTOM PROGRAM keeps me protected! It's not like they'll try to come in through the Internet or something!

CoolCab posted:

if you're buying intel i'd seriously consider 12th gen, for less than the 320 bucks you are paying can get a i5-12600K which will loving destroy it - six much faster performance cores with hyperthreading and six efficiency cores for background tasks means you wind up with 24 rather than 16 threads. you'd need a more expensive mobo but you're already paying almost 200 bucks for it the jump won't be too step.
Does anyone know how this works? The two kinds of cores thing I mean. Does software have to somehow specify whether it should use an efficiency or speed core, or does the processor do some sort of clever heuristics to guess and/or shift things around on demand?

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

roomforthetuna posted:

Does anyone know how this works? The two kinds of cores thing I mean. Does software have to somehow specify whether it should use an efficiency or speed core, or does the processor do some sort of clever heuristics to guess and/or shift things around on demand?

check in the intel thread for details but they got in real close with microsoft for the windows 11 launch and allege that the OS can do the scheduling. it also works fine on windows 10 although there with some programs you need to turn off the e cores and just run 6 core/12 threads, they added am optional workaround where scroll lock enables or disables them.

vanilla slimfast
Dec 6, 2006

If anyone needs me, I'll be in the Angry Dome



roomforthetuna posted:

Does anyone know how this works? The two kinds of cores thing I mean. Does software have to somehow specify whether it should use an efficiency or speed core, or does the processor do some sort of clever heuristics to guess and/or shift things around on demand?

Here’s a GN video that explains the architecture in detail:

https://youtu.be/htCvo9XJZDc

roomforthetuna
Mar 22, 2005

I don't need to know anything about virii! My CUSTOM PROGRAM keeps me protected! It's not like they'll try to come in through the Internet or something!

CoolCab posted:

check in the intel thread for details but they got in real close with microsoft for the windows 11 launch and allege that the OS can do the scheduling. it also works fine on windows 10 although there with some programs you need to turn off the e cores and just run 6 core/12 threads, they added am optional workaround where scroll lock enables or disables them.
Thanks, that was more the kind of short high-level answer I was looking for. So sounds like the operating system is doing the heuristic guessing thing, basically. (And presumably there's some sort of secret magic OS API for if you want to demand that a thread run on a particular core, that's going to be a pain in the rear end for a while if you're trying to make software that cares about that work cross-platform.)

Dick Trauma
Nov 30, 2007

God damn it, you've got to be kind.

Dick Trauma posted:

Back in 2015 this thread helped me assemble my first PC. It's been a great machine but I'm starting to experience some weirdness with the graphics card and motherboard so I decided it's time for a replacement. I managed to grab a decent video card locally and save it for a rainy day, but the other components are question marks. Both builds are below.

I still play at 1080 (I find higher resolution LCDs are too hard on my old eyes) so I don't expect I will stress the machine too much, but I don't mind overbuilding a little if that helps keep the noise down. A bigger case than the 250d was necessary to allow for how large modern video cards are. I'm fine with an AIO for cooling unless that is massive overkill/noisy. I would like a motherboard that has modern features like protection against BIOS scrambling, wifi, etc.

Old 2015 build:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus Z97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($379.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 CL10 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4 GB GAMING Video Card
Case: Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case
Total: $434.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-06 10:17 EDT-0400

New build:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($109.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 AORUS ELITE DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB DUAL OC Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Corsair)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $749.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-06 12:59 EDT-0400

EDIT: Forgot to ask... would it be crazy to migrate the hard drives to the new machine? Both the main drive and bulk storage are pretty new, and I was thinking that if I preloaded them with the MB and other drivers I might be able to just transfer them over.

I updated my build for a new i5 and compatible parts.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
aye, that will be a significant performance uplift. the generational lift from 11->12 is being called the biggest in a long time, intel finally pulled their heads out of their asses lol

although let me correct myself the 12600k still only has 16 threads because it has 4 e cores rather than 6, apologies. still the performance will be much, much better, in gaming particularly.

e: also, wait that would still only add to 18 lol apologies i shouldn't do math right after i wake up apparently

Virginia Slams
Nov 17, 2012
I'm considering buying a custom prebuilt through Cyberpower and was wondering if I could get some feedback on what I've put together. I upgraded the liquid cooling from 120mm to 240mm, memory from 12GB to 32GB, PSU from a 600 watt no name brand to a 650 watt Corsair and that's about it. There's additional free stuff like gaming mouse/keyboard, games, mouse pad etc that I didn't include in this post. The total is $2077 currently for everything, I'm not sure how bad that is price wise but I'd be glad to hear how stupid I would be to buy this.

I imagine it's a bit more pricey than building it myself but I don't trust myself to build it correctly and know nobody who could do it for me. On top of that I understand it's still very difficult to get ahold of 3000 series cards so I'm doubly screwed on that. I plan to not upgrade for as long as possible maybe 3-5 years if it lasts that long.

What country are you in? United States
What are you using the system for? Gaming and just regular browsing/movies
What's your budget? Probably $2500, also need to get a monitor
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I'm trying to run whatever games I play at max or as close to max settings as possible, currently don't have a monitor I use a TV.
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? None


Case:
CyberpowerPC Eclipse P418R DRGB ATX Mid-Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case + 3x 120mm ARGB Fans (White Color)

Extra Case Fans: Default case fans

CPU: Intel Core Processor i7-11700F 8/16 2.50GHz [Turbo 4.8GHz] 16MB Cache LGA1200 [w/o Integrated Graphic]

Venom Boost Fast And Efficient Factory Overclocking: No Overclocking

Cooling Fan: CyberpowerPC MasterLiquid Lite 240mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate (Intel)

Motherboard: MSI Z590 PRO WiFi CEC ATX, ARGB, WiFi 6, 2.5GbE LAN, 4 PCIe x16, 6 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe

Memory: 32GB (8GBx4) DDR4/3200MHz Dual Channel Memory (ADATA XPG Z1)

Video Card:
GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB GDDR6 Video Card (Ampere) [VR Ready] (Single Card)

Power Supply Upgrade:
650 Watts - Corsair RM Series RM650 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Fully Modular Ultra Quiet Power Supply

Primary Hard Drive: 1TB WD Blue SN550 PCIe NVMe + Seagate 2TB SATA III Hard Drive Combo (Combo Drive)

Sound: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO

Network: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network

USB Hub & Port: Built-in USB Ports (Based on motherboard and case selection)

Operating System: Windows 11 Home

Warranty: STANDARD WARRANTY: 1 Year Parts WARRANTY

Service: 1 Years FREE Service Plan (INCLUDES LABOR AND LIFETIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT)

sadus
Apr 5, 2004

Went into Microcenter for a 12900k last night and ended up with an overpriced 3080ti too, what have I done (3770k/GTX780 currently, it's been too long)
My girlfriend bought a velcro dart board and some rubber bands meanwhile, the checkout guy said "Is this your first time here?"

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Virginia Slams posted:

The total is $2077 currently for everything, I'm not sure how bad that is price wise but I'd be glad to hear how stupid I would be to buy this.

$2000+ for a 3060ti build is terrible value, sorry. Hopefully some other American posters will be along to post the better value prebuilts going.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Virginia Slams posted:

I'm considering buying a custom prebuilt through Cyberpower and was wondering if I could get some feedback on what I've put together. I upgraded the liquid cooling from 120mm to 240mm, memory from 12GB to 32GB, PSU from a 600 watt no name brand to a 650 watt Corsair and that's about it. There's additional free stuff like gaming mouse/keyboard, games, mouse pad etc that I didn't include in this post. The total is $2077 currently for everything, I'm not sure how bad that is price wise but I'd be glad to hear how stupid I would be to buy this.

I imagine it's a bit more pricey than building it myself but I don't trust myself to build it correctly and know nobody who could do it for me. On top of that I understand it's still very difficult to get ahold of 3000 series cards so I'm doubly screwed on that. I plan to not upgrade for as long as possible maybe 3-5 years if it lasts that long.

What country are you in? United States
What are you using the system for? Gaming and just regular browsing/movies
What's your budget? Probably $2500, also need to get a monitor
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I'm trying to run whatever games I play at max or as close to max settings as possible, currently don't have a monitor I use a TV.
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? None


Case:
CyberpowerPC Eclipse P418R DRGB ATX Mid-Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case + 3x 120mm ARGB Fans (White Color)

Extra Case Fans: Default case fans

CPU: Intel Core Processor i7-11700F 8/16 2.50GHz [Turbo 4.8GHz] 16MB Cache LGA1200 [w/o Integrated Graphic]

Venom Boost Fast And Efficient Factory Overclocking: No Overclocking

Cooling Fan: CyberpowerPC MasterLiquid Lite 240mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate (Intel)

Motherboard: MSI Z590 PRO WiFi CEC ATX, ARGB, WiFi 6, 2.5GbE LAN, 4 PCIe x16, 6 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe

Memory: 32GB (8GBx4) DDR4/3200MHz Dual Channel Memory (ADATA XPG Z1)

Video Card:
GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB GDDR6 Video Card (Ampere) [VR Ready] (Single Card)

Power Supply Upgrade:
650 Watts - Corsair RM Series RM650 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Fully Modular Ultra Quiet Power Supply

Primary Hard Drive: 1TB WD Blue SN550 PCIe NVMe + Seagate 2TB SATA III Hard Drive Combo (Combo Drive)

Sound: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO

Network: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network

USB Hub & Port: Built-in USB Ports (Based on motherboard and case selection)

Operating System: Windows 11 Home

Warranty: STANDARD WARRANTY: 1 Year Parts WARRANTY

Service: 1 Years FREE Service Plan (INCLUDES LABOR AND LIFETIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT)

No fuckin way you should buy that prebuilt, especially with the new intel chips out.

Virginia Slams
Nov 17, 2012

Butterfly Valley posted:

$2000+ for a 3060ti build is terrible value, sorry. Hopefully some other American posters will be along to post the better value prebuilts going.

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

No fuckin way you should buy that prebuilt, especially with the new intel chips out.

Glad I asked, this is what I needed to hear lol. I guess I'm just lost on what to do at this point. If there are any good prebuilts anyone knows of I'd appreciate the heads up.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Virginia Slams posted:

Glad I asked, this is what I needed to hear lol. I guess I'm just lost on what to do at this point. If there are any good prebuilts anyone knows of I'd appreciate the heads up.

You could buy this thing for $300 less with a 3070 instead of a 3060 Ti. It's not a great prebuilt by any means, but it's a better value than that cyberpowerPC prebuilt. LinusTechTips did a video recently on things you could do to fix it up (the configurations here seem slightly different and this one is much cheaper than what he paid in canada).

The cheapest 3060 Ti prebuilt on newegg is $1500 currently, but I've seen 3060 Ti rigs go as low as $1300 before. These are not going to be glamorous machines, but they can be fixed up for much less than the cost difference between them and CyberpowerPC.

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

You could buy this thing for $300 less with a 3070 instead of a 3060 Ti. It's not a great prebuilt by any means, but it's a better value than that cyberpowerPC prebuilt. LinusTechTips did a video recently on things you could do to fix it up (the configurations here seem slightly different and this one is much cheaper than what he paid in canada).

The cheapest 3060 Ti prebuilt on newegg is $1500 currently, but I've seen 3060 Ti rigs go as low as $1300 before. These are not going to be glamorous machines, but they can be fixed up for much less than the cost difference between them and CyberpowerPC.

NZXT self-build kits have 3060 tis for $1400: https://nzxt.com/collection/bld-kit

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Virginia Slams posted:

Glad I asked, this is what I needed to hear lol. I guess I'm just lost on what to do at this point. If there are any good prebuilts anyone knows of I'd appreciate the heads up.

Intel kind of blew up the market yesterday, and prebuilt prices will likely be slow to react.

If you’re going prebuilt I’d probably wait a few weeks for pricing to catch up.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

change my name posted:

NZXT self-build kits have 3060 tis for $1400: https://nzxt.com/collection/bld-kit

They don’t wanna build is the problem.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

change my name posted:

NZXT self-build kits have 3060 tis for $1400: https://nzxt.com/collection/bld-kit

True, and that's a better build than the prebuilt I linked too

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?

change my name posted:

NZXT self-build kits have 3060 tis for $1400: https://nzxt.com/collection/bld-kit

the minecraft number can't be right, right?

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
maybe rtx minecraft?

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Rinkles posted:

the minecraft number can't be right, right?



Minecraft runs like rear end sometimes unless you install an optimizer, but that could be with ray tracing on

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njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


If I was benchmarking Minecraft for an RTX card I would expect it to be run with ray tracing. Even with Minecraft's performance issues it doesn't run that slow.

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