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I need multiple of these clear parts in the long run so I'll try spacing two out for better cooling. Also printing one on it's side just to see if anything different happens.
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Nov 12, 2021 17:07
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Putty posted:I need multiple of these clear parts in the long run so I'll try spacing two out for better cooling. Also printing one on it's side just to see if anything different happens. This video may be helpful for you to watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkfQri2B0PY
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Nov 12, 2021 17:15
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blugu64 posted:Some folks have done city height maps. They don’t distribute the STLs but base data is all free government heightmaps that you can price together yourself. There’s a tutorial out there somewhere, but I couldn’t find it. Ok, that is really cool. Unfortunately I never got good enough in QGIS to manipulate data in a meaningful way, because I have previously tried doing stuff with open map data.
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Nov 12, 2021 17:46
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Deviant posted:Friend, I live in Florida. The heat gets turned on one day a year to burn the dust off. No I mean the sunlu box is heated ain’t it? Mine is. You can turn on the filament heat while it’s printing you don’t have have it just sitting there not doing anything.
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Nov 12, 2021 18:17
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SEKCobra posted:Ok, that is really cool. Unfortunately I never got good enough in QGIS to manipulate data in a meaningful way, because I have previously tried doing stuff with open map data. Yeah, OSM data is frustratingly not-quite-good-enough. It's fairly easy to export it and turn it into an STL via 3D Builder but there's always loads of little niggly issues that stop you getting nice clean results like that. (Doesn't help that I was trying to get it for London which of course isn't a nice clean grid so splitting it into easily-printable chunks is even harder)
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Nov 12, 2021 18:50
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I am getting a consistent print fail on this one part. The model in question is the Dark Rider by Manuel Boria. Some of these are the pre supported file, some are supports generated by Prusa Slicer. The mount and knight printed fine, but not the head. This is the first time I've used Siraya Tech Fast, but it also failed with Elegoo resin.  This is what the pre supported version looks like  The supports are clearly just, not supporting it. On each failure there has been a very thin silhouette in the shape of the head. Do I just need to keep cranking up the support thickness or is there a number I need to dial in on the print settings? Also, I don't like posting only failures or troubleshooting. I did use the last scraps of the Elegoo resin on this gummi venus de milo I need to clean up. 
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Nov 12, 2021 19:30
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Nov 12, 2021 20:04
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Serenade posted:The supports are clearly just, not supporting it. On each failure there has been a very thin silhouette in the shape of the head. Do I just need to keep cranking up the support thickness or is there a number I need to dial in on the print settings? There's lots of reasons for failures like this, but I doubt it's the supports. What machine/settings are you using? Support failure like this can be a symptom of both underexposure and overexposure.
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Nov 12, 2021 20:20
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Serenade posted:I am getting a consistent print fail on this one part. You don’t need thicker supports you need more thinner supports. It’s failing where the support meets the model. That means that the contact points are too small but you can’t put more of them because the supports are comically huge. I would make the supports thinner but add more of them. You could also increase the diameter of the contact point but that will result in more surface damage. If they are thin supports I use .25 or .30 diameter contact. E: you could add a medium support to a spot that joins with the rest of the model so the scar it leaves doesn’t matter. That might do it too. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 12, 2021 |
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Nov 12, 2021 20:22
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I have an Elegoo Mars. For this resin, my layer exposure time is currently 4 seconds. It was 6 on some of the previous failed prints, did not notice a difference. Lift speed is 70 mm/min. Was 100 mm/min under the same logic. I will try more, thinner supports with a thicker "root" support now. This single part has a short print time so it's been a good test case to dial in the settings.
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Nov 12, 2021 21:02
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah, OSM data is frustratingly not-quite-good-enough. It's fairly easy to export it and turn it into an STL via 3D Builder but there's always loads of little niggly issues that stop you getting nice clean results like that. Actually the data isn't too bad, but styling, changing and selecting it requires knowledge I don't have.
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Nov 12, 2021 21:21
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Serenade posted:Also, I don't like posting only failures or troubleshooting. I did use the last scraps of the Elegoo resin on this gummi venus de milo I need to clean up. It's such an obvious thing to print as soon as you get translucent green now that I'm mixing my own colors I should really do one in a more show-accurate light green
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Nov 12, 2021 21:22
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Chernabog posted:Not exactly what you want but I made this a while ago: Reminds me of the failed print graveyard that lives between the back of my printer, and the wall (but in a good way)
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Nov 13, 2021 00:00
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Chernabog posted:Not exactly what you want but I made this a while ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwINwm5iH2Y&t=8s
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Nov 13, 2021 01:31
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Hadlock posted:Reminds me of the failed print graveyard that lives between the back of my printer, and the wall (but in a good way) Funny thing is that I screwed up the model because the hexagons were supposed to be a solid piece. The triangles came out too flimsy and broke off but I ended up liking it better that way.
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Nov 13, 2021 01:51
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E: Oops 3d printing not HA Worth trying to temperature control a resin printing enclosure? Modifying a besta to ventilature half a dozen printers and I'm wondering if I should have some localized automation to heat/cool it w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Nov 13, 2021 |
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Nov 13, 2021 04:37
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Just spent several hours trying to clean out my wash alcohol before realizing I was stressing over like $4 of new alcohol Cool.
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Nov 13, 2021 04:41
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Crossposting between the Scale Modeling and 3D printing thread because this is a little of both. This is the Rocketeer's Rocket pack. Still using the Local Library to do printing (If I had money I think I would get a resin printer.) The print is less than perfect but it looks fine in person. Printed pieces. The lettering was to identify stuff that needed more printing    Finished and painted. It's about 5" tall and the flanges are kept in place by pins.    (click for bigger)
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Nov 13, 2021 08:14
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VF18BFC Cheap bigass silicone mat for whatever area you are going to be working with your giant rear end resin printer, plus there's a coupon! Got the 32x24 one for 9.99 shipped. Figured someone else here might need one.
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Nov 13, 2021 08:47
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w00tmonger posted:Worth trying to temperature control a resin printing enclosure? It really is, if the temperature is apt to go below ~65-70F for any length of time. Most resins' performance starts to fall off pretty rapidly once you get below that, and some products like Siraya stuff prefer it even warmer. If you have the means to control the environment then it'd likely be pretty helpful in the long run.
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Nov 13, 2021 12:57
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Sockser posted:Just spent several hours trying to clean out my wash alcohol before realizing I was stressing over like $4 of new alcohol Just let it sit for 3 weeks. It should settle out. If that doesn’t work put it in a transparent container you don’t care about, leave it in the sun for a few hours, THEN let it sit three weeks. Crack open the hardened resin and it should be pretty clean inside (abut it will smell terrible).
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Nov 13, 2021 15:54
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VF18BFC I wish this had a lip to contain a spill though
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Nov 13, 2021 16:09
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Deviant posted:I wish this had a lip to contain a spill though Yeah, no lip makes this not the best for resin stuff. I use this much smaller 2-pack for my resin printers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08611658H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't have them under the printers since I never get any spills or drips by the printers themselves, but they're under the cheapo plastic plates that I use for removing models from the build plates or popping supports. They work fine, the tiny lip is good enough for the little drips that make it out, and I can just put them outside every other week or so to cure whatever bits of resin might be on them.
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Nov 13, 2021 17:44
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Doctor Zero posted:Just let it sit for 3 weeks. It should settle out. If that doesn’t work put it in a transparent container you don’t care about, leave it in the sun for a few hours, THEN let it sit three weeks. Crack open the hardened resin and it should be pretty clean inside (abut it will smell terrible). Put it in several mason jars and ran it through my cure station and filtered out all the goop But it was just a long and tedious and messy process and sucked and whatever just bought new alcohol and then I'll toss the old alcohol in the sun for a month
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Nov 13, 2021 18:01
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Sockser posted:Put it in several mason jars and ran it through my cure station and filtered out all the goop There shouldn't really be any goop at all if you leave it for long enough.
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Nov 13, 2021 18:19
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Paradoxish posted:There shouldn't really be any goop at all if you leave it for long enough. Yeah, exactly. It doesn't take long in labor time, just long in actual time.
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Nov 13, 2021 19:12
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I own a cheap FDM printer that I've never let run all night for fear of a fire. I am eyeballing resin printers so my son and I can make D&D figures and maybe some tabletop terrain. Looks like Elegoo are pretty popular. It also looks like they have both a Saturn and Mars 3 printer model that might suit my needs. The Saturn is 500 bucks but the Mars 3 is 350. I like the bigger print bed on the Saturn but I don't know if it's worth another 150 bucks. Is there a Goon consensus on best bang for your buck on resin printers for this holiday season?
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Nov 13, 2021 19:41
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Hekk posted:I own a cheap FDM printer that I've never let run all night for fear of a fire. I am eyeballing resin printers so my son and I can make D&D figures and maybe some tabletop terrain. Looks like Elegoo are pretty popular. It also looks like they have both a Saturn and Mars 3 printer model that might suit my needs. The Saturn is 500 bucks but the Mars 3 is 350. I own a Saturn and can confirm the bigger print volume is worth the extra cost. Whether you're printing one big thing (like a D&D dragon) or a bunch of little things all at once (I recently printed out an entire 15mm WW2 British Army platoon), that extra build volume comes in very handy.
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Nov 13, 2021 19:48
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A friend of mine is going to give me an auto-leveling kit that he ended up not using. It looks to me like the idea is that it automatically adjusts the z-axis to keep the nozzle the same height from the bed, is that right? Am I also right then in thinking that you need to make sure the bed is at least straight if not level for it to work well? It seems like that wouldn't prevent a bend in the bed from messing up the print.
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Nov 13, 2021 20:52
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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah, exactly. It doesn't take long in labor time, just long in actual time. Right. I feel like if you're leaving your IPA long enough for safe disposal then you've already done 95% of the labor necessary to just reuse the stuff.
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Nov 13, 2021 21:22
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22 Eargesplitten posted:A friend of mine is going to give me an auto-leveling kit that he ended up not using. It looks to me like the idea is that it automatically adjusts the z-axis to keep the nozzle the same height from the bed, is that right? Am I also right then in thinking that you need to make sure the bed is at least straight if not level for it to work well? It seems like that wouldn't prevent a bend in the bed from messing up the print. I think a *mild* bend could probably be accounted for by the auto-leveling technique most printers use but really, I'd make sure the bed was flat before even beginning to look at other stuff.
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Nov 13, 2021 21:51
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I own a Saturn and can confirm the bigger print volume is worth the extra cost. Whether you're printing one big thing (like a D&D dragon) or a bunch of little things all at once (I recently printed out an entire 15mm WW2 British Army platoon), that extra build volume comes in very handy. Can you give a goon a hand? My Mars 3 keeps telling me that the files on the USB that came with the printer aren't the correct format and I'm not quite sure what I am doing wrong. We're talking just the goopy rook test print here not even anything fancy
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Nov 13, 2021 22:02
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PleasantDirge posted:Can you give a goon a hand? My Mars 3 keeps telling me that the files on the USB that came with the printer aren't the correct format and I'm not quite sure what I am doing wrong. We're talking just the goopy rook test print here not even anything fancy Just for sanity's sake, head over and grab the latest firmware file and the USB Files from here: https://www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support First try with the USB files, and if you get the same error then upgrade the Mars 3 firmware.
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Nov 13, 2021 22:44
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Hekk posted:I own a cheap FDM printer that I've never let run all night for fear of a fire. I am eyeballing resin printers so my son and I can make D&D figures and maybe some tabletop terrain. Looks like Elegoo are pretty popular. It also looks like they have both a Saturn and Mars 3 printer model that might suit my needs. The Saturn is 500 bucks but the Mars 3 is 350. I don't think there's going to be a consensus on this, because it depends a lot on how much you want to print and how quickly you want to finish large projects. The smallest build plates out there (something like the Sonic Mini, so smaller than the Mars 3) will print batches of 6-8 fairly large 28mm miniatures in one shot without much crowding. You get a lot more space with the bigger build plates, but it's really just going to be a tiny bit more convenience outside of some edge cases. For what it's worth, I lived with just a tiny Sonic Mini for a while and I printed kind of a crazy volume of miniatures with it. As in, I filled shelves in a matter of months and seriously questioned my sanity. I don't think a Mars 3 would really limit you in any way, unless you have a very specific number of miniatures you need to print in a certain timeframe. FDM will still be more cost-effective and faster for terrain, though, even with a large printer.
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Nov 13, 2021 23:13
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I own a Saturn and can confirm the bigger print volume is worth the extra cost. Whether you're printing one big thing (like a D&D dragon) or a bunch of little things all at once (I recently printed out an entire 15mm WW2 British Army platoon), that extra build volume comes in very handy. +1 to team Big Build Plate
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Nov 13, 2021 23:34
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Big printers can always print small things, but small printers often have to print big things in pieces. I have one resin machine (Epax E10) that's about equivalent to the Saturn in size that I use to print larger movie prop and costume pieces, and my more standard sized Photon Mono is usually what's pooping out the smaller detail parts and also miniatures for my gaming friends. The Epax could easily fill both roles if it were the only one I had, but it's nice to have the increased capability. So the real answer is to buy more printers.
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Nov 14, 2021 00:20
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It’s like clamps. How many you need is always one more than you have. Speaking of the E10 I finally installed the 5k screen and have been trying to figure out a good exposure time. Seems like it should be about 1.5 secs.  This fucker is going to fly. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 00:40
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Deviant posted:I wish this had a lip to contain a spill though Buy two and cut one into strips to glue to the edge of the first one  Didn't get mine for spills though, just having some place to get stuff of the print bed that's easy cleanup afterwards.
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Nov 14, 2021 00:43
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InternetJunky posted:Just for sanity's sake, head over and grab the latest firmware file and the USB Files from here: https://www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support Okay I think I got the USB files installed correctly but I am absolutely lost on the firmware update instructions, I am not a computer toucher. I DL'd the file from the Elegoo website but the directions on how to make that happen are kinda wonky. If you want to take this to DM's I can just post the solution when we get it figured out or I can just phone a computer toucher friend in the AM.
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Nov 14, 2021 03:34
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PleasantDirge posted:Okay I think I got the USB files installed correctly but I am absolutely lost on the firmware update instructions, I am not a computer toucher. I DL'd the file from the Elegoo website but the directions on how to make that happen are kinda wonky. If you want to take this to DM's I can just post the solution when we get it figured out or I can just phone a computer toucher friend in the AM. There should be three files you downloaded. You just put those on the USB drive, insert the drive into the printer, and then "print" (as in, select the file on the printer and then press print) them on the Mars3. You want to do it in this order: .LCD file, then .RBF, then .TXT file. Please make sure you got the Mars3 files specifically. You can completely brick your machine if you do this with the wrong printer files.
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Nov 14, 2021 04:24
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