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What is: how to keep a dad occupied over the winter. Edit: och, the worst snipe.
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Nov 15, 2021 07:05
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It's best to put them on a treadmill so the rubber doesn't sit still.
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Nov 15, 2021 08:54
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Gorson posted:It's best to put them on a treadmill so the rubber doesn't sit still. In fact just leave it in gear and idling, topping up the petrol as needed, all winter. No need for any winterising then.
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Nov 15, 2021 10:47
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Use a big fan to keep air cooled bikes from melting too quickly.
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Nov 15, 2021 13:35
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Simply never put your bike away.
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Nov 15, 2021 14:00
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epswing posted:Use a big fan to keep air cooled bikes from melting too quickly. Drive fan with bike, call it eco friendly energy.
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Nov 15, 2021 14:18
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You all laugh but every spring the goldwing comes out hot with tires that don’t have flatspots, ready to drag valve cover
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Nov 15, 2021 14:35
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:You all laugh but every spring the goldwing comes out hot with tires that don’t have flatspots, ready to drag valve cover Isn't that because you let it sleep in the bed?
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Nov 15, 2021 14:40
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It’s art for my living room
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Nov 16, 2021 03:36
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Bought a RE Himalayan and it has only 1200 km on it. While getting it ready for winter I was going to do a oil change and upon removing the drain plug I see that some of the aluminum threads from the block came out with drain bolt. I did the last oil change myself, and tightened everything to spec and am wondering how the heck that happened? It was not a lot but enough that I am going to re thread it. Can I do that myself without worrying about metal shards falling back into the oil resevoir?
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Nov 16, 2021 08:34
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Even if some metal chips do go back in, either the oil filter/screen will catch them or they'll just sit in the sump until the next oil change flushes them out. If you're concerned about it, do the next oil change sooner than scheduled.
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Nov 16, 2021 09:12
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Dick Ripple posted:Bought a RE Himalayan and it has only 1200 km on it. While getting it ready for winter I was going to do a oil change and upon removing the drain plug I see that some of the aluminum threads from the block came out with drain bolt. I did the last oil change myself, and tightened everything to spec and am wondering how the heck that happened? It was not a lot but enough that I am going to re thread it. Can I do that myself without worrying about metal shards falling back into the oil resevoir? Dick Ripple posted:how the heck that happened? Zoom and enhance: Dick Ripple posted:RE Himalayan 
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Nov 16, 2021 09:19
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All of youtube keeps telling RE's QC/QM is getting better... :/ But for the price and what I use the bike for it is hard to beat.
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Nov 16, 2021 09:35
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Looking for tire recommendations. Bike: 2004 FZ6 Use: 90% boring commute on a fairly straight highway, 10% occasional weekend fun rides Weather: all, including below freezing and plenty of rain riding
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Nov 19, 2021 16:56
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moxieman posted:Looking for tire recommendations. DR650
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Nov 19, 2021 18:43
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moxieman posted:Looking for tire recommendations. https://www.michelinman.com/motorcycle/tires/michelin-road-5
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Nov 19, 2021 19:59
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So while riding today I discovered that my bike won’t start unless the kickstand is up and the clutch is pulled in even if it’s in neutral. I can’t remember if it would start in neutral without the clutch pulled in before but I’m sure it would do it while the kickstand was down. I did recently adjust my clutch. Could that be causing this if I didn’t get the adjustment right or would it be some sort of sensor going bad? Bike is a ‘18 Ninja 650
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Nov 20, 2021 19:15
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katka posted:So while riding today I discovered that my bike won’t start unless the kickstand is up and the clutch is pulled in even if it’s in neutral. I can’t remember if it would start in neutral without the clutch pulled in before but I’m sure it would do it while the kickstand was down. There is a switch on your side stand and one on the clutch, one of those is probably faulty, test it for continuity with the multimeter you've definitely got. If you've somehow managed to reach this juncture with no multimeter to your name, you can infer if they're faulty by unplugging and just bridging the two wires with a piece of wire and seeing if the bike will start with the stand down or whatever combination you think should work. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Nov 20, 2021 |
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Nov 20, 2021 19:59
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but also go get a multimeter because even the ones that go on sale for 7.99 at harbor freight will work fine for occasional use, and really given how much electronic poo poo there is today, having a multimeter is kinda like having a screwdriver. this is the cheap one i recommend to my students. it's great. the continuity function is particularly valuable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DW681FQ/ (get the blue "upgrated model")
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Nov 20, 2021 20:45
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Is there a version of this type of brake light switch that *won't* get corroded contacts after one winter on the road? I'm in need of a replacement because the original one has done just that and is now stuck closed, and it'd be nice if there were a way to ensure it doesn't happen again.
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Nov 20, 2021 22:47
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Short answer: no there isn't. The solution is either taking a brand new one apart and packing it with dielectric grease, or switching to a hydraulic switch.
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Nov 20, 2021 22:55
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I'm comfortable taking them apart so I'll just get a new one and do that. Cheers.
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Nov 20, 2021 23:01
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Sagebrush posted:but also go get a multimeter because even the ones that go on sale for 7.99 at harbor freight will work fine for occasional use, and really given how much electronic poo poo there is today, having a multimeter is kinda like having a screwdriver. Usually I’d just go and borrow my dads multimeter but that one is a pretty good price and I suppose it’s time I got my own anyhow. After it gets here I’ll go and check those switchs Slavvy was talking about.
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Nov 20, 2021 23:49
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I've now received two multimeters from HF for free, I'm sure they're not great for anything halfway serious but for checking out bike electrical issues they've always been good enough. On the other hand, the upgrated model above is only $19 so that's probably what I'd buy now.
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Nov 21, 2021 00:37
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The absolute worst multimeter still still read within +-1V and have a resistance test that can show continuity or not. The accuracy of the values almost never matters on bikes, the extra features you get on fancy ones are usually not helpful. Source: I have an expensive multimeter with lots of features I barely understand and there is visible wear on the three positions I actually use: 20V DC, continuity buzzer, 200ohm continuity test. I could do all of this with a $20 meter but I was young and stupid and I own it now.
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Nov 21, 2021 01:34
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The official Harbor Freight multimeter recommended by MMI to MMI students is this: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html It costs literally a million dollars in Harbor Freight money ($80) If you're a professional mechanic with electrical training, you'll actually use 2/3 of the functions on that. I use those things, I like them. But lovely $5 ones are fine.
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Nov 30, 2021 04:49
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I'm getting really fed up with walking out to a dead battery. I got a nice yuasa for the hawk in 2019, but it's trashed now because I barely ride and the hawk requires crazy amounts of power to start. I have three options: -Get another yuasa -Get a lithium (might not be safe as it gets super hot under the seat in that part of the bike. -Get a cheap battery and replace it more often Plus, I want to do any of the above and make some sort of quick release cable thing so I can pull the battery quickly and bring it inside to my tender. I have these but they may not be thick enough wire. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F54PFLE/
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Dec 1, 2021 15:38
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I'm sure you've thought of this, just curious why you don't connect a pigtail to the battery and just always have it on a tender? Does the bike live outside and it's too far from an outlet?
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Dec 1, 2021 15:42
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epswing posted:Does the bike live outside and it's too far from an outlet? Unfortunately, it's this. 
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Dec 1, 2021 15:44
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Solar powered trickle charger?
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Dec 1, 2021 15:55
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Coydog posted:Unfortunately, it's this. Losing charge because of parasitic drain or cold?
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Dec 1, 2021 16:19
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Extension cord?
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Dec 1, 2021 17:14
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Extension cord? My previous place was a house with no garage, I used an outdoor extension cord, worked fine. Place before that was a condo with a parking garage, no outlet nearby, guessing it's something like this.
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Dec 1, 2021 17:19
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Can't you just take the battery out and put it on a charger inside? Makes the bike harder to steal as well.
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Dec 1, 2021 19:13
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Wire in a battery tender lead and get yourself a lithium jump pack you can plug into it. Jump pack stays inside with you and charges, when you want to ride you can jump the bike and go
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Dec 1, 2021 21:21
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Intentionally letting the battery die and jump-starting it every time seems like a bad idea. I have located the core of your problem: Coydog posted:I barely ride If you ride the bike once a week, even once every two weeks, for like 30 minutes that's plenty to keep the battery good. If you aren't doing that, you really just need to get a tender of some sort, even if that means taking the battery out and bringing it inside between rides.
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Dec 1, 2021 21:29
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I know I should ride more but I just don't feel comfortable doing so often these days. Plus, I'm spending most of my active outdoors time doing mtb/skating/SUP. Believe me, I'd do an extension cord or put the bike in a place it could be plugged in if I could. Not my living situation, and no way can I afford a house in this hellworld. Slavvy posted:Can't you just take the battery out and put it on a charger inside? Makes the bike harder to steal as well. This is exactly what I'd like to do. Not sure what weatherproof quick release plug would be enough to carry the current the bike needs to start. It's a huge pain to unscrew the leads and bring it inside. I'd probably need a strap to pull it out of the bike, because it's a tight fit and a heavy battery. Edit: Is SAE enough to start the bike? Or will I melt something. Like I said, I'd use this if it passed enough current. I like the plug and have plenty of spares. https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Connector-1-5mm-Terminal/dp/B01A6LTK44/ Coydog fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 21:48
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I mean it's kind of a self-solving problem, right? If you don't ride often, loading the battery in and out a few times a month is not that big a deal. If you ride more often, the battery won't die. I agree that it's kinda tricky to pull the battery out of the bike because of the design of the box, and epoxying a nylon strap around it would be helpful. Don't change the leads. Unscrewing them takes less than a minute with a regular philips screwdriver. The seat pops off with no tools. idk
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Dec 1, 2021 21:56
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You aren't wrong, but putting the screws back in with those infuriating nuts that never want to stay in place is what I want to avoid. I've even shimmed them to make it easier, but one always falls out into the bike after I've already got the other lead attached.  Actually I should just shim them and then run heat shrink around the post so they can't shift or fall out. That might be easier than a plug situation...
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Dec 1, 2021 22:00
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Coydog posted:You aren't wrong, but putting the screws back in with those infuriating nuts that never want to stay in place is what I want to avoid. I've even shimmed them to make it easier, but one always falls out into the bike after I've already got the other lead attached. Thread the screws into the nuts. Put the battery into the bike. Take the positive screw out and fit the lead. Take the negative screw out and fit the lead. Alternatively: shove a glob of epoxy or a block of foam under the nuts. Alternatively, be a horrible person and fit one of these.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:26
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