|
CaptainViolence posted:this thread is probably where you'll want to go for advice later, but i can give you the short answer for this one: yes, a field mixer is what you're looking for, but keep in mind you'll have to sync your sound and video in post. industry standard is Sound Devices, but you can find decent, much cheaper stuff in Zoom's F series and from Tascam if budget is a concern. Cheers, just crossposted. Good to know I'm not too off track so far!  Edit: oof, what a terrible snipe. Sorry camera people 
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2021 16:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 09:58 |
|
|
Do you guys have a favorite online film lab? My local labs are kinda annoying. I'm looking at The Darkroom or Indie Film lab, but it feels like a shot in the dark
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:Do you guys have a favorite online film lab? My local labs are kinda annoying. I'm looking at The Darkroom or Indie Film lab, but it feels like a shot in the dark The Darkroom did well for us but we just ended up getting labbox and a refurbed scanner and doing it ourselves because its real expensive if youre shootin a lot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
King of Bees posted:The Darkroom did well for us but we just ended up getting labbox and a refurbed scanner and doing it ourselves because its real expensive if youre shootin a lot. Seconding this, developing and scanning yourself isn't hard and is far more cost effective but The Darkroom did Okay when I was still scared of doing it myself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2021 20:19
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:Do you guys have a favorite online film lab? My local labs are kinda annoying. I'm looking at The Darkroom or Indie Film lab, but it feels like a shot in the dark I develop at Citizens Photo and scan at home. They have very fair prices for dev and I still haven't had a misprocessed roll in the 70+ rolls I've sent to them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2021 21:29
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:Do you guys have a favorite online film lab? My local labs are kinda annoying. I'm looking at The Darkroom or Indie Film lab, but it feels like a shot in the dark I have had good luck with blue moon camera. They managed to get usable results from some rolls that I've never gotten to work with hand development. They're on the same coast as me and I went with them to get some obsolete film processed initially and have not had a reason to change to someone else. I've only ever had then develop and cut/sleeve, I've never had prints, contact sheet or scans from them since I scan it all myself at home.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 19:10
|
|
|
evilcat posted:I've only ever had then develop and cut/sleeve, I've never had prints, contact sheet or scans from them since I scan it all myself at home. Same when we used the darkroom. We bought a scanner before we got into developing and just that saves a ton of money if you're shooting a lot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 19:16
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:Do you guys have a favorite online film lab? My local labs are kinda annoying. I'm looking at The Darkroom or Indie Film lab, but it feels like a shot in the dark I send most of my film to Edgar Praus, but if you want development and scans in one go, Precision Camera has been pretty good to me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 19:50
|
|
|
Yond Cassius posted:I send most of my film to Edgar Praus, but if you want development and scans in one go, Precision Camera has been pretty good to me. Edgar Praus is a pretty solid deal. The one k-rock recommends is North Coast Photo Services which was previously the cheapest place I knew of to get E-6 sheet done, but Edgar Praus is actually cheaper, nice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 20:38
|
|
|
Do people have a Black and White developer they like? I've only developed Black and White at home with Rodinal Stand developing and it's been inconsistent. I wanted to try something else to use with a more standard development procedure. Mostly shooting kentmere and Tri-X. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 02:37
|
|
|
Use Rodinal but don't stand. I use Rodinal at 1:50 for speeds 100 or slower and HC-110 at dilution H, 1:63 for faster films. I go off the massive dev times and agitate 30 seconds up top and 10 seconds every minute after. I've never really liked what I got out of stand development but Rodinal not used as a stand is magnificent.
Megabound fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Dec 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 02:51
|
|
|
I use Cinestill DF96 and it has done a great job with Ilford and Lomography B&W medium format film for me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 06:35
|
|
|
I'm quite happy with DD-X. Use it for FP4, HP5 (4x5) and Delta3200 in 120.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 07:21
|
|
|
aricoarena posted:Do people have a Black and White developer they like? I've only developed Black and White at home with Rodinal Stand developing and it's been inconsistent. I wanted to try something else to use with a more standard development procedure. Mostly shooting kentmere and Tri-X. Thanks D-76 is my go to, I’ve never had to scrap a roll or really had any issues in all my years using it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 07:36
|
|
|
trashy owl posted:I use Cinestill DF96 and it has done a great job with Ilford and Lomography B&W medium format film for me. Use the same on hp5/tri-x, never used anything else so I'm not sure if it's good or not.  Love the simplicity.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 09:02
|
|
|
aricoarena posted:Do people have a Black and White developer they like? I've only developed Black and White at home with Rodinal Stand developing and it's been inconsistent. I wanted to try something else to use with a more standard development procedure. Mostly shooting kentmere and Tri-X. Thanks rodinal, used it anywhere between 1:25 agitated and 1:100 stand and it's always good. Never not loved Rodinal. HC-110 is good but I didn't like it as much as Rodinal, and the bottles tend to split after a year or two in storage. let's be straight here, if you're not getting consistent results you don't have consistent materials or procedures. Mixed developer solution always needs to be warmed to a constant temp (I want to say 70F is the standard?). How do you do that? Always start working your water portion in a measuring cup, mix hot/cold water to the proper temp, discard excess water to the proper volume (important in glass vs plastic - plastic doesn't have much thermal mass, but glass you always pour out because the glass itself requires heating if you pour in), and then measure your developer portion in a grad cylinder (10ml of non-warmed concentrate won't materially affect the temps of 1000ml of water). That gives you constant temp when the solution goes in. Use stop bath (diluted vinegar is fine) and then actively agitate during your stop cycle, etc etc. But if you do it the same way every time the results will come out the same way every time, that's the Chemical Fax, it's just precipitation of the latent silver solution with a reactant and it always proceeds at a given rate with the temps/concentrations, if you miss exposure then that's on you but the chemicals just do their thing. I never had a problem "just because of stand development", I've used cycles up to 2h (for +2 stop push) and you just agitate once every half hour. I never saw drag shadows or anything like that. I offloaded things like stop bath to roller base cycles and it really helps push some of those "variabilities" to zero but it wasn't a problem when I didn't do it either. Vigorous shaking for 30 seconds was always fine. If you're not seeing consistent results it's either your process or your exposure. Ansel Adams sez: control your variables. And he's right. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Dec 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 10:04
|
|
|
If you're doing a stand or a longer development time then not using a stop isn't the end of the world as a water stop is going to act fast enough before the very dilute developer makes any substantial difference, however everything else is on point. 20c/70f is where your development should be and Rodinal is very sensitive to temps even a couple of degrees higher. If you're doing a stand and you have a huge temp differential between your tank and the outside world you're going to get convection currents in your tank, and then you'll get bromide drag so a water bath to keep your temps stable is a necessity in that situation. A pre-soak in dev temp water is a good idea to get your film and tank to developer temp so you're not losing or gaining any heat and the pre-wetting helps stop air bells and other problems.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 10:19
|
|
|
yep fair, water wash is fine as a stop especially with a super dilute stand development, but stop bath (i.e. dilute vinegar) removes that variable from the equation. That's all I'm saying is, find your variables and remove them, chemically it always works the same way every time, unless you gently caress it up. Why is it different? You hosed it up. Find your variables and control them. I did a pre-soak, I don't think I ever made an effort to warm it to a particular temp, just "warm-ish". I never saw convection currents in any of the plastic tanks I used, and I developed during some pretty cold times/environments, maybe 60F, dad didn't like to turn up the heat and the Rodinal was 100% consistent for me with tight control of my process, even in very long stand procedures, I very much feel that if that's not your result you didn't control your process tightly enough. When it went wrong I can actively trace it to specific things I wasn't sure about in terms of exposure/overdevelopment, there were times I mixed up rolls/etc and pushed rolls way harder than they should have been/etc. presoak is very important to prevent air bells though regardless, as well as pre-soften the emulsion to - again - help it be nice and consistent as it reacts. Very good comment there, soak it, shake it, soak it, shake it, pour it out, then you go for reals. Depending on how much developer volume you need to add - you also may need to pour in a darkroom with the lid open vs through the lid. It's an unfortunate fact of bigger tanks (especially 5 reel or larger) - the pour time can affect lower reels vs top reels due to the fluid transfer rate. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Dec 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 10:31
|
|
|
anyway thanks for reading, here's a couple shots off that "horrifically ruined" roll I pushed way beyond belief, this is Delta 100 at EI 100 with +2 push processing, I tried to rush my processing of it and mixed up rolls, had some real kink problems (humidity?) loading it onto the reels, etc. Not what I intended, this is what I could recover out of a +2 negative.  
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Dec 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 10:44
|
|
|
Cool. Thanks everyone for the info. I planned to use up the Rodinal and see how that goes, its several year old and there is not much left. So, it's good to have some idea of what other like. Cheers!
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 15:57
|
|
|
aricoarena posted:Cool. Thanks everyone for the info. I planned to use up the Rodinal and see how that goes, its several year old and there is not much left. So, it's good to have some idea of what other like. Cheers! rodinal is good for several hundred years (in a sealed container) only decades, once opened!
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 16:05
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:rodinal is good for several hundred years (in a sealed container) I remember someone saying it got better with age and more crystals forming in it, not sure about that. I lost a good amount to leakage after moving twice and not looking at it in couple years. Thankfully it was packed in a lot of paper towels and double bagged.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 16:40
|
|
|
A couple of test shots. I wanted to see how much I could get out of a Delta3200 before I haul the 4x5 out. I got there late and with more cloud cover than intended, so on a better day, I might just have enough light to get away with a +2 on HP5 1/30, handheld. Longer exposures will be near impossible as she reacts to the sound of the shutter. (Downside of doing clicker training as a puppy!!).  
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2021 08:56
|
|
|
She's a beaut and so is this photo. and so are you tuna fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Dec 5, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2021 09:45
|
|
|
Is Rodinal the best developer for shelf life? I've been using D76 and liking the results but I shoot and develop pretty sporadically and I end up wasting quite a bit because it sits for a long time between uses. What might be the best / most economical Dev/Stop/Fix combo for that scenario? I shoot mostly FP4+ and HP5 if that matters.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2021 22:01
|
|
|
i have a bottle of ilfotec hc that's kept for almost a decade now and still gives consistent results. 1L of concentrate is about $70 and you only use about 6-9 mL per roll of film if you are using a paterson tank, depending on the dilution you want
polyester concept fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Dec 8, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2021 22:58
|
|
|
rockear posted:Is Rodinal the best developer for shelf life? I've been using D76 and liking the results but I shoot and develop pretty sporadically and I end up wasting quite a bit because it sits for a long time between uses. What might be the best / most economical Dev/Stop/Fix combo for that scenario? I shoot mostly FP4+ and HP5 if that matters. both rodinal and hc110 will last forever and are very economical (especially if you use dil h for hc110). just use a water stop bath and whatever rapid fixer (i use the ilford one because my local store has it) and it comes out very cheap per roll. polyester concept posted:i have a bottle of ilfotec hc that's kept for almost a decade now and still gives consistent results. 1L of concentrate is about $70 and you only use about 6-9 mL per roll of film if you are using a paterson tank, depending on the dilution you want i think ilfotec hc is the same thing as hc110 for twice the price (at least in the us, don't know about elsewhere)
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 01:08
|
|
|
Perfect. I will give one of those a shot, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 03:22
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:Do you guys have a favorite online film lab? My local labs are kinda annoying. I'm looking at The Darkroom or Indie Film lab, but it feels like a shot in the dark I was happy with the developing that The Darkroom did for me, but their scans were dogshit, so I bought a scanner. Eventually I noticed scratched negatives so I tried out Richard Photo Lab for developing and they have been a bit better so far. What questions should I be asking myself if I want to figure out if developing my own film is right for me? If I don't have room for a properly ventilated dark room, and if I want consistent results, I am guessing an automated processor is the way to go? Besides the chemicals, some water is required as well; will tap water suffice or is distilled water required? How do I dispose of chemicals? What are the maintenance costs of an automated film processor? I would primarily be doing BW and C41 rolls in 120. I do some photo lithography at work, so I would prefer a programmable/automated setup to create a large separation between work and hobby, but I am not sure what my options are.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 23:05
|
|
|
You need: A sink with hot/cold water that isn't too hard to adjust. Thermometer A changebag/tent. A tank (Paterson or similar) with film holders 3+ bottles to store mixed chemicals Mixing jars. Chemicals (B&W) Developer: (Many choices, I like Ilford DDX) Stopper Ilfostop Fixer : Ilford Rapid Fixer drying agent (optional, which is really just some soap that makes it run off the film faster). PPE according to personal comfort levels. There's a million methods for mixing, re-using, etc. For the most part, I just follow the official instructions, but use the developer times from here: https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php For C41, you also need a sous vide cooker and a big plastic tank/tray big enough to almost submerge the chemical bottles. Start with B&W, as it's the smaller investment and it's hard to gently caress up. Once you're comfortable with that, you can move on to C41, which frankly is just as easy, just more temperature critical and requires a little more investment. You buy a kit, mix it up, and off you go. It's more pricey than B&W, doesn't have as long shelf life, but will easily pay for itself with only moderate use.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 23:27
|
|
|
You can quite happily develop in your own kitchen, without a darkroom, with minimal effort. I decided that C41 wasn't for me as the price of chemicals and the amount I shoot there weren't any savings to be had from dropping it into the lab, but for black and white your costs come down drastically and it's real easy to do. An automated machine is only worthwhile if you're doing bulk, and black and white development absolutely does not need one. As I'm all about black and white I'll talk about that, someone who does their own colour can talk about that. Common things you need across black and white and colour: 1: A developing tank and film holders. I'd recommend a Paterson 3 reel at least so you can do 2 x 120 at once. 2: A loading bag or tent, for loading the film holders in 3: A thermometer 4: Some measuring jugs and cylinders 5: Some distilled water (used for your final rinse, tap water is OK for everything up to final rinse) 6: Some pegs or clips for hanging your film to dry For black and white specifically: 1: A black and white developer 2: A stop bath (to stop develpment) 3: A fixer (whatever is cheapest, removes undeveloped silver) 4: Foto-flo (a surfactant to help your film dry without water marks) For black and white everything is reusable except your developer (in general) and your foto-flo. so you'll want some nice air-tight containers to keep those mixed solutions in. When selecting a developer my most crucial limitation is shelf life so I use Kodak HC110 and Rodinal which both have a shelf life of however long it takes you to get through the bottle. For development technique it mostly consists of standing about and inverting your film tank 3 or 4 times a minute for 5 - 15 minutes. If you want to get even lazier you can use Rodinal in a stand development and just let your film sit in the tank getting to know the developer for an hour. The go to place for development times is the Massive Dev Chart. As for disposal with black and white your most concerning chemical is your fixer. The common method is to leave some steel wool soaking in it for a month to draw out all the silver and then pour the rest down the drain, for stop and developer straight down the drain. This is not true for C41, especially if you use a Blix and not a bleach/fix. Blix is very difficult to dispose of safely. For a short video on the process this Ilford black and white processing video is pretty good, but ultimately if you develop your own black and white you end up with your own rituals that work for you, but in general the more dilute your developer the longer your development takes the more compensation you get in your shadows and the less precise you need to be with your times, all good things.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 23:42
|
|
|
Thanks. This would certainly be less expensive and less risky than an automated processor. Getting the temperature right and dust management will be a bitch. Will I be shooting myself in the foot if I use somewhat hard tap water? What process steps do I adjust to get a relatively flat film? Or do I just roll it up in the other direction?
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 23:57
|
|
|
Some film naturally curves more, I've found just hanging my film with a weight on the bottom while drying does a good enough job. If your film is super curly then yes, rolling it up the opposite way will work. Temperature in black and white is not super critical, I just get my starting temperature right. Your tap water will not effect development but will show up in drying, rinse with a distilled water otherwise you'll get water marks and residue from it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 00:08
|
|
|
theHUNGERian posted:Getting the temperature right and dust management will be a bitch. Will I be shooting myself in the foot if I use somewhat hard tap water? What process steps do I adjust to get a relatively flat film? Or do I just roll it up in the other direction? I always run the bathroom exhaust and a hot shower for about five minutes while I start developing. The spray and aerosolized droplets will help pick up a lot of the dust in the air and be gone (enough) by the time you're done with the chemistry steps. Hard water can leave mineral spots, but a final rinse with distilled water and/or photo-flo will prevent that handily. I mix most of my chemistry with distilled as a matter of best-practice, but I don't think it's necessary unless you're living somewhere with very hard water. Hang up your film with a stainless steel clip on the bottom and it'll be pretty flat by the time it's dry. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Dec 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 00:11
|
|
|
Thanks all. Final question: I have been using two labs for developing all my film, and I handle all my film the same way. However, only Ilford Ortho comes back with this poo poo (dark dots across image):  People seem to think it's water condensation, but I am at a loss where it comes from because (1) I handle all my film this way and (2) the film is stored at room temperature before opening. What experiments can I do to narrow down the root cause of this?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 00:29
|
|
|
My father in law got me some black and white Rollei RPX 100 film for Christmas that he's going to process when I'm done. I've got a Olympus Om10. I've not really used film since sometime around the turn of the last century. Anyone got any good pointers for working with film for a complete dinky goober like me? FreudianSlippers fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Dec 26, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2021 07:11
|
|
|
The OM10 should do most of the heavy lifting for you. It's aperture priority only so all you can do is point it and your subject, focus and release. I'd just have fun with it, see what works then think about how you could have changed things with the exposure compensation dial. You can find the manual here: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_om10/olympus_om10.htm
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2021 23:25
|
|
|
What websites have pretty comprehensive film stores? I feel like getting some random b&w film stocks to play with
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 16:22
|
|
|
wolfs posted:What websites have pretty comprehensive film stores? I feel like getting some random b&w film stocks to play with I'll throw this out there: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/2-Film/Black-and-White-Film I am a newbie who only shoots 120, so perhaps I am full of poo poo, but things worth considering: Some films are just other films that have been repackaged. Sometimes "character" is really just "poo poo quality control" at a higher price point to make it look intentional. So far the only character BW film I have actually enjoyed in a few instances was Potsdam Kino.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 18:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 09:58 |
|
|
Yikes a Hasselblad 500CM in nice condition is out for a decent price on my local market place (for the second time in fact, and I regretted not hitting it the first time) Somebody please tell me it will be a stupid purchase and waste of money. I haven't used film since I was a child, and I do not have a good way to develop or scan it
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2022 09:47
|
|