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Actually that's a good point, I've only got one decora rocker switch, the rest are regular switches, and I'm very used to running my hand up a wall in the dark to find a switch and flip it on, not sure how long it would take me to relearn that with rockers. I'm still struggling after 3 months to adapt to the pull chain fixture that got replaced with a switched light. Ironically that's the one switch that's a rocker.
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Nov 11, 2021 02:24
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B-Nasty posted:It's funny how muscle memory doesn't really care; I'm having the opposite problem with my house and it's the weirdest, stupidest muscle memory poo poo. I keep walking into my garage and reaching for the light switch on the right side of the door instead of the left (where it actually is). This is despite the fact that at my old house where I lived for 14 years, the light switch was also on the left. The only thing I can think of as to 'why' is that this house has the garage attached to the laundry room, same as the house I grew up in (and haven't lived in for decades, though I am still over there regularly), and there, the light switch in the garage is on the right.
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Nov 11, 2021 05:55
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Sherwin Williams paint is amaaaaaazing. Painting in confined spaces, not so much. Before  After   
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Nov 11, 2021 14:07
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B-Nasty posted:It's funny how muscle memory doesn't really care; I can slap on/off a rocker or a toggle switch without thinking about it. That's how I destroyed the switches in my bathroom once already, and will probably do it again. It's one of those 2 switches in a 1-gang box deals. Has to be a 1-gang box because the wall has one of those mega-mirrors that takes up the entire goddamn wall. Been here over 5 years and I still sometimes try to flip up instead of sideways. Even though there is barely any force, doing it enough times will trash them eventually.
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Nov 11, 2021 15:28
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Johnny Truant posted:Sherwin Williams paint is amaaaaaazing. 6 years ago, I did a kid bedroom with two colors that met horizontally across the walls and left a little ridge where I taped off the junction. A year ago we swapped rooms and I re-painted it to a grown-up single color and had to get the power sander for that little ridge. I figured it would just hand sand off, but nope. Provided you prep right and it can get a good bond to what you're painting, their paint is basically indestructible.
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Nov 11, 2021 15:38
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Is there some new hotness instead of the typical wax ring for a toilet? Doing our floors next week and will need to pull the toilet and I thought I saw something mentioned in here that's easier/better to use than the normal wax ring?
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Nov 11, 2021 15:46
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mattfl posted:Is there some new hotness instead of the typical wax ring for a toilet? Doing our floors next week and will need to pull the toilet and I thought I saw something mentioned in here that's easier/better to use than the normal wax ring? https://www.fluidmaster.com/products/toilet/toilet-seals/7530-better-than-wax-wax-free-seal/
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Nov 11, 2021 15:55
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I've got a question about removing PMI. My wife and I bought our house 2.5 years ago, and refinanced for a lower rate about a year ago. When the refi happened, our house was re-appraised and our home value was raised enough so that we went from having around 8% LTV to around 16%. Well here we are a year later and we're on the cusp of hitting 20% equity according to the servicers website based on the re-appraised home value they gave us when we refinanced. Can we remove PMI once we hit 20% of the re-appraised value, or do we need to hit 20% of what the original mortgage amount was to do so? The language I've found online is a bit confusing in that regard.
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Nov 11, 2021 16:05
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Motronic posted:https://www.fluidmaster.com/products/toilet/toilet-seals/7530-better-than-wax-wax-free-seal/ I was hoping you'd pop in lol Looks like I can grab one at home depot too. Thanks!
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Nov 11, 2021 16:17
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Handsome Ralph posted:I've got a question about removing PMI. I went through something similar when I refinanced a couple months ago and dropped PMI. My understanding is you have two choices: 1) When you hit 78% LTV, your lender should drop PMI automatically. I think this is based on whatever value your lender accepted for your refinance, so your past appraisal. 2) You can refinance and have your lender accept a value that has you at 80% LTV or less, so no requirement for PMI. This is what I did through my then current lender (Mr Cooper), they accepted the (massive) Zestimate and didn’t require a full reappraisal. In general, recommend talking to your lender and they should be able to give you a better answer more applicable to your situation. Kolodny fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Nov 11, 2021 |
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Nov 11, 2021 16:36
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Handsome Ralph posted:I've got a question about removing PMI. It's not automatic at 80% LTV, unfortunately. It IS automatic at 78%, though, and that's based off the original appraisal at the time of loan origination. That said, after you drop below 80% LTV, you can ask your lender to remove PMI. They might do it on the spot and you're good to go. However, they can make you pay for an appraisal, and they can reject outside appraisals... in other words, ask your lender how the process works before you put any money in to it. You don't want to pay for an appraisal and then find out that your lender only accepts internal appraisals or something. You can also refi your way out of it if your home value has gone up enough to not require PMI on a new loan. But that's assuming a refi is otherwise to your benefit... because then you're paying for the appraisal anyhow, along with new origination fees.
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Nov 11, 2021 17:06
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Yeah I was about to pay the last couple of hundred on the principal so we hit 80% a few weeks early, rather than just waiting for my mortgage payment on Dec. 1st to do it and then fire off the letter formally requesting they remove it (I know automatic removal isn't till 78%), but like I said, I saw some language online that made me think it might be 80% of the original mortgage (which doesn't make sense to me) rather than what my current home value is at (based on their appraisal from the refi last year). I'll give them a call and see what they say. Fingers crossed they tell me it's good to go. Thanks, all!
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Nov 11, 2021 17:23
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Handsome Ralph posted:Yeah I was about to pay the last couple of hundred on the principal so we hit 80% a few weeks early, rather than just waiting for my mortgage payment on Dec. 1st to do it and then fire off the letter formally requesting they remove it (I know automatic removal isn't till 78%), but like I said, I saw some language online that made me think it might be 80% of the original mortgage (which doesn't make sense to me) rather than what my current home value is at (based on their appraisal from the refi last year). It's dumb but that's how it's worded. 78% on the original amortization table is automatic. Ask about an automated valuation model.
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Nov 11, 2021 17:38
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Has anyone ever replaced an under mount sink? It appears our bathroom sink is sitting on a frame/built into the vanity and the big rear end granite counter is on top. I don’t think it will come out under through the cabinet and maybe I have to remove the entire counter top. I’m trying to find someone who can do it, it’s beyond my ability. We’re replacing it because it mysteriously cracked (no one knows how it happened). I’ve never seen a sink crack before.
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Nov 11, 2021 20:33
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maybe it sounds lazy, but I'm automating my curtains using switch-bots and it's pretty great so far. I'm automating as much as possible in my apartment. eventually I'll be able to just drift from one room to the next, blissfully unaware of the discomfort of interacting with the physical world.
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Nov 11, 2021 20:50
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Welp, the time has come. I have a few dollars in my account, and I am considering taking the plunge for a new Aeron chair. God drat $1350 including tax and a corporate discount. Used ones are looking like $700+ at a local used office furniture store, for a significantly worse spec (no leather arm rests, non adjustable arm rests, etc.) which is why I am considering new instead. Any thoughts on if this is a total waste or if I should buck up and do it? I can't take money with me when I die, and if I hate it I'll do a return. I tried it briefly at the showroom and it felt pretty drat comfortable. There is a chair thread in SH/SC but this one is more active so thought I'd post here. Have a photo of an Eames that I took in the showroom, can't imagine a lifetime in which I would have enough disposable cash to buy this: 
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Nov 11, 2021 |
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Nov 11, 2021 22:49
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Inner Light posted:Welp, the time has come. I have a few dollars in my account, and I am considering taking the plunge for a new Aeron chair. God drat $1350 including tax and a corporate discount. Check out madisonseating.com. I got my office chair from them for about a third of the cost of new. I would never pay retail for those chairs. Be very sure what you want before plunking down huge chunks of change. In fact I got 2 because I am bad at websites. 
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Nov 11, 2021 23:20
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Have you sat in one to know if it's going to be right for you? There are a number of Very Good chairs that are not "Aeron" so the used market tends to be less bad. Off the top of my head Herman miller has the embody now, and Steelcase has the leap. I am a big fan of my leap, and they seem to be more common on the used market in the $300-$400 range. If you want the look of an Aeron, then obviously only an Aeron will do.
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Nov 11, 2021 23:23
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Yeah I had an Aeron and after about a week found it uncomfortable to sit in. Traded it in for a Leap v2 and am much happier now.
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Nov 12, 2021 00:04
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Every time i sit down in my aeron i cum instantly
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Nov 12, 2021 00:10
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that was my problem with it
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Nov 12, 2021 00:43
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I used to work the graveyard shift entry level job monitoring the financial reporting computer scheduling system do it's nightly job. I would sit there for 12 hours and push the idiot button if the red light came on to rerun the job. Then I'd call an adult to fix the problem if my supervisor approved my request* Anyways long story short we had a bunch of aeron chairs floating around from the enron era. Given the opportunity to sit in a $1000 chair, or squabble with my coworker over the $99 office depot chair that was falling apart, we always choose to squabble over the $99 chair because it was way, way more comfortable That's not to say I hate Herman Miller chairs, we've got an eames lounge chair clone in the living room, and my wife has a red leather aluminum series task chair in her home office *Looking back now, it doesn't surprise me that our senior manager who ran the group had spent most of his life in the military Anyways TL;DR had to sit for literally thousands of hours, chose to sit in anything besides an aeron chair
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Nov 12, 2021 02:29
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So I recently got my chimney capped to address a leak, and tonight I found that the noise from rain falling on the metal cap is utterly cacophonous. Anyone have any tips on how to address this? My first thought is to buy some cheap acoustic panels, shove 'em into the chimney flue from the bottom of the fireplace, wedge in a thick piece of foam board directly beneath that, and sealing the edges of the board with spray foam. EDIT: After taking a closer look at it, I can't reach all the way up to the flue from the fireplace. So instead, my thought is to glue the acoustic panels to the top of the foam board and place that in the throat as a barrier. Not sure how effective this would be, though. GFBeach fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Nov 12, 2021 |
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Nov 12, 2021 03:56
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Put some kind of mass on it. A small square of knockoff dynamat would do it.
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Nov 12, 2021 06:49
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Yeah add mass. If the fireplace is inoperable you could go up there with a ladder and toss a piece of plywood on top with something like gorilla glue. Eventually the plywood will rot and glue deteriorate, but it's a non structural, non weather tight, non asthetic addition, so worst case scenario seven years from now you go scrape off the old one and glue a new piece of plywood on there If it's still a functional fireplace, use a concrete paver and half a gallon of mastic (premix tile mortar and/adhesive) and it'll last you 15 years
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Nov 12, 2021 07:21
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Given the shape of the chimney cap I'm thinking something like (knockoff) dynamat will be a lot easier to work with in my case. I know that ideally this should go on the underside of the cap, but it's firmly bolted to the chimney; other than wear from sun and weather exposure, do you see any problem with putting this on the topside of the cap? Will that impede its dampening ability?
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Nov 12, 2021 17:03
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If anything, it'll improve the dampening effects. If you throw a sweater on top of a drum, it's going to deaden the sound more effectively than if you glue it to the bottom
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Nov 13, 2021 00:10
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Hadlock posted:If anything, it'll improve the dampening effects. If you throw a sweater on top of a drum, it's going to deaden the sound more effectively than if you glue it to the bottom That makes a lot of sense. Looks like I can get the materials I need for about twenty bucks; I'll give it a shot soon. Thanks!
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Nov 13, 2021 02:45
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Inner Light posted:Welp, the time has come. I have a few dollars in my account, and I am considering taking the plunge for a new Aeron chair. God drat $1350 including tax and a corporate discount. I just finished grad school and early on after my husband and I had saved up for my tuition, I found out my new company would pay for most of my tuition. We ended up buying me a Herman Miller Embody Task Chair with some of the money we had saved and it's been so incredibly comfortable and I've never had a backache even after sitting all day for work and all evening for class and homework. We have Aeron chairs at work and I prefer mine to the Aeron. Involuntary Sparkle fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Nov 13, 2021 |
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Nov 13, 2021 07:50
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Our refi is now in day 30 of initial underwriting. Is it safe to assume that the labor shortage + low-rear end rates = slowdown as underwriters try to balance up? Or is Cardinal Financial just really bad?Inner Light posted:Welp, the time has come. I have a few dollars in my account, and I am considering taking the plunge for a new Aeron chair. God drat $1350 including tax and a corporate discount. Consider a Leap chair - they're basically Aerons but with fabric instead of mesh. I'm pretty sure that most if not all the features on an Aeron are available on a Leap. The advantage, though - Leaps can be way lower price used. The fabric is also a good amount less slippery than mesh. I got a Leap v1 in fantastic working condition, reupholstered and delivered, for $250. A few bucks more and I could have had new arm pads if I wanted 'em. MJP fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 16:23
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MJP posted:The advantage, though - Leaps can be way lower price used. The fabric is also a good amount less slippery than mesh. I hated the aeron I had at my last job because of this, every 10 minutes or so I was sliding out of it. It would have been ok if I got up more often, but then again anything is fine if you don't use it much.
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Nov 16, 2021 19:06
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go for a stroll posted:I hated the aeron I had at my last job because of this, every 10 minutes or so I was sliding out of it. How exactly are you sitting/have your chair adjusted that this is a thing? I get that not everyone is going to be comfortable in the same things, but aerons come in sizes (step 1: you need the correct size) and the are super adjustable (step 2: you actually need to spend some time getting the adjustment right). Even after that you may not like it. But I don't see how I'd fall out of mine.
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Nov 16, 2021 20:39
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Wildly overweight people with giant thighs will tilt the seat forward so that their knees still fit under their desk  If I get a chair like that I'll immediately trade it because the seat cushion (or in aeron case, mesh) is already at end of life This wasn't meant to be a dig on fat people but I guess it turned into one In a much more previous life I sold commercial furniture, just as bariatric furniture as a SKU catalog item was entering the market, and but just custom one off/modified
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Nov 16, 2021 20:56
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Motronic posted:How exactly are you sitting/have your chair adjusted that this is a thing? It was probably too big. Too far back and the front edge was in my calves, so my feet didn't touch the floor and I slid down. Too far forward and I was tipping that way. I took it as a reminder to stand for a while rather than gently caress around with the adjustments, so it could have been fixable. But all else being equal I don't think "slippery" is a desirable quality in a chair.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:20
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go for a stroll posted:It was probably too big. Too far back and the front edge was in my calves, so my feet didn't touch the floor and I slid down. Too far forward and I was tipping that way. I took it as a reminder to stand for a while rather than gently caress around with the adjustments, so it could have been fixable. But all else being equal I don't think "slippery" is a desirable quality in a chair. Yeah, sounds like that was a C, which are quite large. As far as "slippery"......different strokes. I don't think I ever considered them to be slippery, nor would I really care because when you're sitting on a chair it shouldn't really matter.......surface tension is not what should be holding you on the seat.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:27
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H110Hawk posted:Check out madisonseating.com. I got my office chair from them for about a third of the cost of new. I would never pay retail for those chairs. Be very sure what you want before plunking down huge chunks of change. In fact I got 2 because I am bad at websites. Similarly, I got my Steelcase Leap V2 from Crandall Office Furniture for much less than retail. Highly recommended (both the chair and the shop).
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Nov 17, 2021 01:11
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Anyone know anything about fridges? I have GE Profile PFE28PMKES. It’s a smart connected fridge. Today and yesterday, I got a warning saying that the fresh food area is at 50 degrees and to make sure the door is closed. Door is for sure closed, and the seal seems good, but the fridge itself is quite a bit warmer than it should be. The freezer is totally fine (and near the bottom of the fridge where the freezer vents is quite cool, there’s even some condensation that turned to ice on the floor of the fridge). Additionally, the compressor was off and no air was coming out of the vents fridge side. I left the fridge open for a few minutes, and the compressor kicked on (noise sounded a little weird/Grindy at first but now sounds like a normal, quiet him) and I started feeling cool air come out of the vents. Things seem to be getting cooler but it’s hard to tell as it’s only been like 20 minutes. Fridge temp is set to 36, freezer to 0.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:39
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Anyone know anything about fridges? Sounds like an issue we had with a fridge back when we were renting. A piece of the internal styrofoam insulation had come off and blocked the fan that circulated cold air from the freezer into the fridge.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:57
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EPICAC posted:Sounds like an issue we had with a fridge back when we were renting. A piece of the internal styrofoam insulation had come off and blocked the fan that circulated cold air from the freezer into the fridge. That’s not it for us I believe because cold air is for sure circulating from freezer to fridge because that’s the only part of the fridge that’s cold. Freezer might be too cold cause it’s freezing condensation at the bottom of the fridge. It seems like it’s working now, after leaving the fridge open for 5 minutes from before. Maybe the fan was frozen over and having the door open was enough to kick it on?
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Nov 17, 2021 02:05
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umbrage posted:Similarly, I got my Steelcase Leap V2 from Crandall Office Furniture for much less than retail. Highly recommended (both the chair and the shop). Same here, I bought right at the beginning of the pandemic from Crandall and my Steelcase Leap V2 has been solid for the past year and a half. I had a problem with my chair in the beginning when the chair's gas piston was touching the floor, and they sent me bigger wheels right away without any questions.
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Nov 17, 2021 07:07
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