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Krakkles posted:I don't think I've ever driven a car where that was true - I won't doubt that someone did it, but "many" doesn't sound right. Two centimeters / almost an inch sounds like a lot - has the car been in an accident? I've "felt" this in things but never in my experience as much as Jeep YJs. It was just an awful offset and I just chalked it up to Chrysler not giving a poo poo.
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Nov 18, 2021 05:06
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Woodsy Owl posted:Who do many cars have their steering wheel offset from the centerline of the drivers seat? I have a 2021 Hyundai Kona and the center of the steering wheel is about 2cm offset to the right of the centerline of the drivers seat, and it is really exhausting on my arms. This rings a bell but I can't remember what vehicle it was. Maybe my 87 supra. I'd be surprised if it was actually 2cm, doesn't take much for your body to notice.
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Nov 18, 2021 06:08
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I have a 2014 Lexus GS350 F-Sport AWD with 86k miles. I have a round-trip of 180 mile commute a day. I started to notice a drop of oil randomly on my garage floor. It appeared close to the oil drain plug, so I brought it in for an oil change. They said it is in fact not from the oil drain plug, but from the front differential which is not far from the oil drain plug. I checked it myself and yes...they appear to be correct. Googling the issue, there are a decent amount of posts on the internet about the IS & GS with leaking front diffs. What should my course of action be? It is intermittent...sometimes it will go weeks without me seeing a drop, other times it will leak over the course of a day or 2. Usually the droplet i find on my garage floor is as big as a pencil eraser...the largest I saw was the size of a quarter and that only happened once. Can these be re-gasketed/ o-ringed? or should I get an entirely new(remanufactured) front diff? How urgent do you think it is that I get this taken care of since it's not gushing oil out. No irregular noises or gear whining yet. and what should I expect cost to be? I am seeing prices from $800-2k. Thankfully I have another car to drive in the meantime.
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Nov 18, 2021 15:00
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Some Guy From NY posted:I have a 2014 Lexus GS350 F-Sport AWD with 86k miles. I have a round-trip of 180 mile commute a day. It could be something as simple as an axle seal. I'd probably take it somewhere for further investigation and determine where the leak actually is. It may (or may not be) leaking more as you drive you just don't notice because its on the road.
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Nov 18, 2021 15:20
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Where are the preferred places to get a rental these days? Trying to drive from LA to SF in mid january, and I want a non-shitbox to drive up the PCH. Are the shortages still so bad that it’s “anything you can get”?
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Nov 18, 2021 15:20
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Head Bee Guy posted:Where are the preferred places to get a rental these days? Trying to drive from LA to SF in mid january, and I want a non-shitbox to drive up the PCH. this far out you may be able to get a vette from hertz
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Nov 18, 2021 15:23
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wesleywillis posted:It could be something as simple as an axle seal. I'd probably take it somewhere for further investigation and determine where the leak actually is. Welp I took it in for another opinion at a different shop. I was able to go under the car and see it. It is leaking where the front driveshaft enters the front differential, the seal is bad. This mechanic said to call a transmission shop because it is out of his wheel house. he did look up the repair procedure........FULL ENGINE OUT. The driveshaft looks completely accessible from underneath to remove. I called Lexus for shits and gigs.........$3900 "it's a huge job". He didn't think it was amusing when I said "what the gently caress, this isn't a Ferrari" Now I have an appointment with a transmission shop next wednesday. Over the phone the guy said he looked it up too and it does say engine out with 12 hr book time, however he claims a lot of repairs call for engine out but they can do the repair without removing the engine. I hope that is the case.
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Nov 18, 2021 21:31
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Yep, step one is drain diff oil. Step two, remove engine. It is interesting because it goes through basically a complete tear down of the diff checking clearances and wear patterns before getting to the seal section. So since yanking the engine is the second step listed and not going deeper into why it needs to be removed to do all that other stuff...maybe that's just the assumption on that's what needs to be done. Looking at it, removing the prop shaft involves taking off the exhaust header and a bracket. In theory, should have enough room for a puller for the flange and there the seal sits, nothing special to remove or install it besides the usual tools. Maybe some casting on the block or something that doesn't allow enough room for the flange to be totally yanked out perhaps. Anyways, good luck.
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Nov 19, 2021 00:25
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C-Bangin' it 
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Powershift posted:this far out you may be able to get a vette from hertz Do they have actually good Vettes or are they the base base model? Do they or other non-Turo places have Mustang GT vs. the V6?
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Nov 19, 2021 00:34
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Inner Light posted:Do they have actually good Vettes or are they the base base model? Do they or other non-Turo places have Mustang GT vs. the V6? base model C7s, which are still hella capable. They also have guaranteed SS /GT/RT level muscle cars. checking their website, they have a C63 AMG for 1300 a week but only 525 miles included. the muscle cars are unlimited.
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Nov 19, 2021 01:10
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Powershift posted:base model C7s, which are still hella capable. I was going to ask what they think a base level Corvette is, like a 4cyl with a CVT? I'm sure any base level Corvette of the last decade absolutely can rip up the PCH.
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Nov 19, 2021 02:15
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I think I might have overtightened the oil filter on my 2008 Prius when I changed the oil this morning. Should I try to loosen it slightly (there's oil inside) or just fight with it when I change my oil in a year? (I don't drive that much)
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Nov 19, 2021 18:20
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Josh Lyman posted:I think I might have overtightened the oil filter on my 2008 Prius when I changed the oil this morning. Should I try to loosen it slightly (there's oil inside) or just fight with it when I change my oil in a year? (I don't drive that much) Just leave it and it'll probably be fine when you go to change it later. Do you have a filter wrench just in case? 
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Nov 19, 2021 18:27
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VelociBacon posted:Just leave it and it'll probably be fine when you go to change it later. Do you have a filter wrench just in case? 
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Nov 19, 2021 18:50
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Yeah just leave it. Otherwise you risk the gasket getting loose and you get an oil leak. As long as it wasn't too tight where the gasket was destroyed you should be fine. +1 to getting an oil filter wrench. I personally have one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-oil-filter-wrench-63696.html I like it because you can get a super tight grip on it and lock it in.
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Nov 19, 2021 18:52
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Dammit I got another cyl 4 misfire code on the 2009 Toyota Matrix. I replaced coils and plugs a little while back and the code went away until this morning. I can hear a vacuum leak that I'm pretty sure is from the intake manifold but haven't tracked it down yet. Could a damaged intake manifold gasket in the cyl 4 spot cause a brief misfire that throws a code? The car runs and idles fine except when starting cold. I'm gonna get on this tonight and use the unlit propane torch test that someone itt suggested a couple weeks back, but any additional perspective would help. I will not be letting this problem persist any longer than necessary now.
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Nov 19, 2021 21:20
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Dammit I got another cyl 4 misfire code on the 2009 Toyota Matrix. I replaced coils and plugs a little while back and the code went away until this morning. I can hear a vacuum leak that I'm pretty sure is from the intake manifold but haven't tracked it down yet. Could a damaged intake manifold gasket in the cyl 4 spot cause a brief misfire that throws a code? The car runs and idles fine except when starting cold. I'm gonna get on this tonight and use the unlit propane torch test that someone itt suggested a couple weeks back, but any additional perspective would help. I will not be letting this problem persist any longer than necessary now. I wonder if an unmetered air issue could cause early plug fouling due to improper a:f, or yeah such bad a:f that you don't get ignition and you get a misfire on the next ignition stroke.
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Nov 19, 2021 22:19
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VelociBacon posted:Just leave it and it'll probably be fine when you go to change it later. Do you have a filter wrench just in case? They don't sell these where I live, only the strap kind - I really could have done with one, looks like a good idea
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Nov 19, 2021 23:05
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simplefish posted:They don't sell these where I live, only the strap kind - I really could have done with one, looks like a good idea Growing up I actually had a 4' long piece of skinny metal flat stock sharpened to a point on one end that my friends called the Device. One of the jobs that ended up falling to the Device was the removal of the oil filter in my 240sx at the time which I must have overtightened. I drove the Device through the center of it and used quite a lot of force to finally break it free, getting oil all over the place.
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Nov 19, 2021 23:07
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VelociBacon posted:I wonder if an unmetered air issue could cause early plug fouling due to improper a:f, or yeah such bad a:f that you don't get ignition and you get a misfire on the next ignition stroke. Yes, exactly.
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Nov 20, 2021 02:20
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Dammit I got another cyl 4 misfire code on the 2009 Toyota Matrix. I replaced coils and plugs a little while back and the code went away until this morning. I can hear a vacuum leak that I'm pretty sure is from the intake manifold but haven't tracked it down yet. Could a damaged intake manifold gasket in the cyl 4 spot cause a brief misfire that throws a code? The car runs and idles fine except when starting cold. I'm gonna get on this tonight and use the unlit propane torch test that someone itt suggested a couple weeks back, but any additional perspective would help. I will not be letting this problem persist any longer than necessary now. Yes, leaking intake manifold can definitely cause a miss. It's less than an hour of work to replace, and cheap enough that you can fire the parts cannon at it. Just make sure you leave the throttle body attached to the manifold (along with the coolant lines - but you do need to remove the electrical plug) - you don't have to deal with coolant that way. Disconnect the battery while you do it too, that way the computer will be forced to re-learn fuel trims and idle.
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Nov 20, 2021 06:17
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/Double checking this is the stupid question thread 2005 Honda Pilot but I've seen this on a lot of different cars:  It's right next to where the keys to the ignition go..what is it for? Why is it vented?
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Nov 20, 2021 06:50
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I could be wrong but I think this is a temperature sensor for measuring ambient air temp, for auto HVAC and other things?
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Nov 20, 2021 07:15
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Bank posted:/Double checking this is the stupid question thread I believe that is the temperature sensor for the climate control?
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Nov 20, 2021 07:16
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Inner Light posted:I could be wrong but I think this is a temperature sensor for measuring ambient air temp, for auto HVAC and other things? EngineerJoe posted:I believe that is the temperature sensor for the climate control? Huh..that totally makes sense. I always wondered where the temperature was polled. Thanks both!
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Nov 20, 2021 07:26
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It's a viewport for the mice living in your dashboard
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Nov 20, 2021 09:35
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Josh Lyman posted:Yeah, I have the kind that fits over the end of the filter like a gigantic socket. I have a bad feeling I'll have to macguyer it off with a monkey wrench and hammer next time. If you've got the room to move them, a pair of these "chain vise grips" are the poo poo. https://www.tekton.com/locking-chain-clamp-3960 Or some other brand of those. I use them to get stuck hydraulic filters off all the time. The rubber strap wrenches slip, oil filter wrenches bend and these fuckers laugh at them.
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Nov 20, 2021 11:25
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STR posted:Yes, leaking intake manifold can definitely cause a miss. It's less than an hour of work to replace, and cheap enough that you can fire the parts cannon at it. Just make sure you leave the throttle body attached to the manifold (along with the coolant lines - but you do need to remove the electrical plug) - you don't have to deal with coolant that way. Ok I picked up a gasket, and it came with a new throttle body gasket as well. If it doesn't look like too much of a hassle I'll replace that at the same time. Glad you said something about the coolant lines, because the first step in the Haynes manual is "drain coolant." No thanks. Ah gently caress the fuel pressure relief is kind of involved. Oh well. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Nov 20, 2021 |
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Nov 20, 2021 22:19
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Should I be worried that there is oil in the intake manifold? Not a lot, just a film. Some on the pcv (?) nipples, some in the plenum, a little around the gasket.
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Nov 20, 2021 23:26
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Advice on sourcing tools/equipment to do basic mechanic work? I currently have basic hand tools, some Dewalt power tools, and a small socket set. Thinking about things like a jack, jack stands, impact sockets, torque wrench, etc. I'm in a major metro area so there's people selling stuff on Craigslist or FB marketplace or whatever, I just get nervous about buying somebody's second-hand jack stands from a safety perspective. Similar feelings about Harbor Freighting that stuff too. But it also feels pretty dumb to just plop hundreds of dollars down on brand new stuff, especially when I don't really know what I'm doing.
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Nov 20, 2021 23:27
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Honestly, I'm using HF jack, ratchets, impact sockets, etc. I have an old Craftsman set of sockets or I'd be using HF sockets. Their torque wrenches are fine if you're not doing an engine rebuild. I have a name brand ecosystem for power tools and I would buy a different brand of stands (I don't have a recommendation here, I need to replace my HF set) and I don't trust HF hex sockets, but for basic stuff... I'm of the "buy something nicer when you break it" and I've broken very little HF stuff. If it doesn't have a lot of moving parts and it won't kill you if it fails, don't see the point of spending more (as an occasional user). I hear Husky is a pretty decent cheap alternative. Uthor fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Nov 20, 2021 |
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Nov 20, 2021 23:54
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HF stuff can be fine, but I personally wouldn't buy jack stands there. They had some safety recall not long ago. I don't think it's worth saving a few bucks on stands. Other stuff should be alright though. Craigslist can be decent, but unfortunately a lot of people selling stolen poo poo nowadays.
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Nov 21, 2021 00:29
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I have replaced the intake manifold gasket in the Matrix, and the misfire has not been fixed. The gasket did need replacement, but was still in one piece. The engine hasn't coded again yet from just idling in the driveway, but I can still hear the vacuum leak so it's only a matter of time. I think I hear the leak somewhere around the bottom of the manifold, so now I'm starting to think the whole thing might be cracked. At this point I think it might be best to find a smoke machine rather than throwing more parts at it. From my experience changing the gasket, I think changing the whole manifold shouldn't be a terrible job, but I want to be certain. If it is cracked, it looks like a ~$200 part but they are not as common as I hoped.
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Nov 21, 2021 00:45
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So it hit a pothole on my 2021 Mazda3 Turbo AWD and trashed the front passenger tire. Does the logic that you have to change all four tires at once apply to modern cars that are FWD 99% of the time and just engage the rear wheels when the front tires start slipping?
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Nov 21, 2021 01:07
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Should I be worried that there is oil in the intake manifold? Not a lot, just a film. Some on the pcv (?) nipples, some in the plenum, a little around the gasket. No, that's typical. aunt jenkins posted:Advice on sourcing tools/equipment to do basic mechanic work? I currently have basic hand tools, some Dewalt power tools, and a small socket set. Thinking about things like a jack, jack stands, impact sockets, torque wrench, etc. I'm in a major metro area so there's people selling stuff on Craigslist or FB marketplace or whatever, I just get nervous about buying somebody's second-hand jack stands from a safety perspective. Similar feelings about Harbor Freighting that stuff too. But it also feels pretty dumb to just plop hundreds of dollars down on brand new stuff, especially when I don't really know what I'm doing. Floor jacks can be tricky used unless you can actually test it with a load. Personally I'd spend the extra money on a HF Daytona - spending more than what those cost won't get you anything notable, spending less will show it. Jackstands I just wouldn't trust someone's used stands and good ones are not expensive. Bouillon Rube posted:So it hit a pothole on my 2021 Mazda3 Turbo AWD and trashed the front passenger tire. This depends entirely on two things. One, how worn are your tires? Two, what does the owner's manual say? All AWD vehicles should have some mention in the owner's manual of an allowable tread difference between tires. On older purely mechanical systems this allowance is very small. On newer systems that are entirely computer-actuated there may be a surprising amount of leeway. In either case you'll need to measure the tread depth of your current tires, compare that to the tread depth of the same tire when new, and compare that difference to what the owner's manual says you can do.
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Nov 21, 2021 01:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:spending more than what those cost won't get you anything notable, spending less will show it. You're speaking my language. Thanks!
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Nov 21, 2021 02:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:No, that's typical. Mazda doesn’t offer any thresholds…thry just say that you have to replace all tires at once. But I don’t necessarily buy that, since there is always going to be some variation in the tread depths of your tires unless you’re super anal about getting rotations done (which I can’t imagine most people are) My depths are: Front driver: 6/32 Rear driver: 8/32 Rear passenger: 7/32 And it looks like the OEM Bridgestone is 10/32 So that would put a 4/32 delta between a brand new tire and the most worn one, or a .25 inch gap in circumference I think? Which is the max that Subaru recommends if that makes any difference. Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 21, 2021 |
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Nov 21, 2021 02:51
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I have replaced the intake manifold gasket in the Matrix, and the misfire has not been fixed. The gasket did need replacement, but was still in one piece. Corollas of a similar vintage have the same manifold. And yeah, smoke machine time. The intakes can crack - not often, but it can happen. Check your PCV lines first, along with your brake booster and evap lines (both connect to the manifold after the throttle body). If you do have to replace it, you've already experienced almost all of the work involved - there's just a few vacuum lines to remove on top of what you've already done.
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Nov 21, 2021 02:53
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My 2011 Forte with 226k km needs calipers all around according to the dealer. Usually I’d be sceptical of the dealer, but I went in for a transmission fluid change and they guy said “don’t bother, just buy another car”. Never offered me a sales rep or anything, didn’t really seem to care to sell me a new one, just didn’t want me to waste money on maintenance, or so he said. I was also looking fairly rough coming from work so it might have been genuine. Fronts are seized causing blueing (I’m told): Rears are seized causing record grooves (I’m also told): I can buy calipers for $500, but would need to replace pads and rotors as well as apparently they’re all messed up from being dragged constantly. They also said to change out the flex lines. My midpipe is super worn, and I’m told I also have an oil leak from a silicone gasket on top of the engine(?). Also front suspension bushings need replacing as they’re drying out and separating from housing. My question is: fix it, limp it through the winter so prices might come down, or buy another car now? I don’t know how to do any of this stuff so I’d be paying a local guy to do the labour. I don’t have a garage so all I ever do is change tires. Edit: imgur doesn’t like me I guess. Posting from the app, sorry no photos Edit2: I made an album so you can tell me the dealer was lying about the flex lines probably https://imgur.com/a/50GueGJ a primate fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 21, 2021 |
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Nov 21, 2021 16:33
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What’s your financial situation and what’s the best outcome for you? A lot of this is just routine things that need to be done on a vehicle this age. How’s the rest of the car? I’m on the fence on what to recommend. Paying shop prices to get all this work done is going to be expensive. If you could do this yourself I’d go that way but that’s not an option. Prices aren’t going to go down anytime soon. If you were going to to replace the car soon anyway I’d go ahead and do that. If you need the car to last a little longer that’s doable. If I was just trying to make it a few months I’d look at replacing the lube in the caliper slide pins and try to unstick them, maybe slap a cheap set of pads on there depending on what the existing pads look like. I live in the southern US and I’ve heard the cold north is hell on cars. Down here there’s lots of life left in a 2011 even with 140k miles. Not sure how the overall condition of your car is. If it’s all rusted and in not great shape you may be better off replacing it.
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Nov 21, 2021 18:53
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