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I need to finish cleaning the old gasket off my intake manifold and head but eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Nov 16, 2021 16:12
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Scraping gaskets is the worst job, even worse than gapping rings.
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Nov 16, 2021 16:16
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Powershift posted:My money's on injector cups. That was my first thought. My Buddy has the tool and I considered doing it while the engine was out. Now I’m really regretting not just spending the $300.
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Nov 16, 2021 17:37
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BigPaddy posted:Scraping gaskets is the worst job, even worse than gapping rings. My issue is that it's leaving little embedded fibers that could be sanded off but for the whole "aluminum" and "needing to be significantly flat" things
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Nov 16, 2021 19:20
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C10 has its safety inspection tomorrow which there is no documentation on what that means so I just make sure the lights and what not worked. This would include the license plate light. That would be fine if it was on the truck since the PO “restored” it but there is just a snipped wire for something that is a requirement in most states on their annual inspections. Ok fine just order one in to the local parts place who say they have one for the that truck for that year. No it is just some generic piece of crap that doesn’t fit at all but it has to go on today for the inspection tomorrow. Look around for some scrap to make a mount with and had some old license plates so cut a piece out, hogged some holes in it and mount it on until I can get the actual one. Putting the rear view mirror on that was never installed on the new windshield and notice the windshield is not in the rubber properly so try to wedge it in and yep it cracks. It cracked so easily that I am not sure if it was correct spec laminated glass. So hey gently caress it will get a mobile auto glass place to replace it so I don’t have to gently caress around with it. Going to have a chicken and egg conversation with the inspector I expect about how it needs x y z but why would I spend the money in x y z until I know it will even be registerable?
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Nov 17, 2021 01:32
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Well that was painless. Checked the cab and frame vins were right and signed it off. Now to register it and I can drive my piece of crap on the road.
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Nov 17, 2021 19:40
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BigPaddy posted:Well that was painless. Checked the cab and frame vins were right and signed it off. Now to register it and I can drive my piece of crap on the road.
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Nov 17, 2021 19:46
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Probably will treat it to a day at the body shop to straighten the frame horns and align the new fender because ehhhhh body work sucks.
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Nov 17, 2021 19:49
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Titled and registered, there was some drama where they wanted a smog pass and I had to explain that it was going to be registered as an Historic Vehicle so didn't need it. It would never pass emissions since all the emissions stuff was removed when the 350 was swapped in. Got past that and now I can legally drive something I bought from a salvage auction on the road. Oh and one of the center caps in the wheels was loose so I tried to tighten it and the bolt snapped off in the center cap... great.
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Nov 18, 2021 17:53
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Panty Saluter posted:I need to finish cleaning the old gasket off my intake manifold and head but eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhhhh Recently went through this, excerpt from my thread: --Snip-- The intake as it sat was dirty and the old gasket seems to have fused itself to the heads. This seems to be typical since all three motors have this gasket as holding on for dear life.  ] Wax on, Wax off.  With that out of the way, the intake manifold is cleaned up and ready to be installed.   Gaskets in place  --snip-- A razor blade and red scotch brite, plus the unique mix of anger and nihilism from my Slavic descent and it came out pretty good. The gaskets take care of any minor imperfections and the method is relatively tame so the material doesn't come off aggressively.
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Nov 18, 2021 22:20
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Nice, will get some red scotchbrite. I have a plastic razor blade for the big chunks but I have the same issue (23 year old gasket has bonded to the parts). If the red is safe for aluminum that's all I need
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Nov 18, 2021 22:38
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Someone wanted to come look at and buy the Fiat today assuming they fit being a bit over 6'. Went to do a quick test drive last night and no start, starter doesn't even spin. Pulled starter real quick and it looks like that's fine so I'm hoping it's another poo poo-tier crimp like the dozen or so other I've fixed on this thing.
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Nov 19, 2021 14:55
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Panty Saluter posted:Nice, will get some red scotchbrite. I have a plastic razor blade for the big chunks but I have the same issue (23 year old gasket has bonded to the parts). If the red is safe for aluminum that's all I need I wouldn't recommend using scotchbrite (with grit) if you can avoid it. It's impossible to guarantee that ALL the aluminum oxide grit is out of the engine and not scoring cylinder walls, etc. McMaster has scotchbrite without the alumina grit, which kind of takes the magic out, but still makes for a decent [safe] scrub with a solvent, IME. Maybe I'm overthinking the abrasive grit going walkabout thing, but better safe than sorry methinks. I have had good luck in the past scraping aluminum sealing surfaces with an .89¢ plastic switch cover from the hardware store of your choice. They're surprisingly straight, hard enough to get the job done, but still softer than the aluminum and you have 4 sides to scrape with. One of these: 
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Nov 19, 2021 16:15
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glyph posted:I wouldn't recommend using scotchbrite (with grit) if you can avoid it. It's impossible to guarantee that ALL the aluminum oxide grit is out of the engine and not scoring cylinder walls, etc. McMaster has scotchbrite without the alumina grit, which kind of takes the magic out, but still makes for a decent [safe] scrub with a solvent, IME. Maybe I'm overthinking the abrasive grit going walkabout thing, but better safe than sorry methinks. That's an awesome hack. I will try that too.
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Nov 19, 2021 16:40
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The switch plate hack is a great idea. Even better if you buy new switch plates, replace old ones in your house and then use the old ones as scrapers. As far as aluminum oxide stuff getting in your engine from Scotchbrite pads, a little bit of port stuffing and masking tape goes a long way in preventing foreign materials from going places they shouldn't. Also, try sanding with a shop vac nozzle in the neighborhood of the action. Just a little negative pressure helps particles decide where they want to go. My Toyota Pickup needed a needed a new radiator. The old one developed a leak where the top plastic cap joined with the metal core. I pulled the old one out on my lunch break yesterday, but it was too cold and too dark to work on it after work. The new one went in smooth, and I replaced the screw clamps I mistakenly put on when I changed the radiator hoses a few years ago with those springy-type ones that make your fingers numb for days if you lose grip on them during installation. I was super careful and had no such incidents this time. I didn't have time to fill the system with new coolant. I bought a fancy-pants vacuum coolant filler tool that should make this a quick job once I overcome the tool's learning curve. I saw Watch Wes Work use one on Youtube and it looked magical. My Lexus seems to have a bubble that keeps the heat from working as well as it should. I don't drive it often in the winter so it has never really been a priority. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Nov 19, 2021 |
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Nov 19, 2021 16:46
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NitroSpazzz posted:Someone wanted to come look at and buy the Fiat today assuming they fit being a bit over 6'. Went to do a quick test drive last night and no start, starter doesn't even spin. Pulled starter real quick and it looks like that's fine so I'm hoping it's another poo poo-tier crimp like the dozen or so other I've fixed on this thing. Pretty sure they won't fit, BTW. I'm 6' 1" - 6' 2" depending on the day and nope. I guess if they have long legs and a short torso they may be OK. My head was in the roof. If Fiat had put some decent adjustment in the seat, I could fit - the seat base is tall. As far as what I've done to my cars, nothing much. The LED taillights on my Crown Vic have a provision for the civilian separate turn signal. My P71 still uses the combined brake and turn lights, so that portion is unused (the manufacturer provides a bulb filler for early cars and the P71s.) The LED tails only need one of the two bulb plugs from the original tails, so I decided to see if the socket would fit in the turn location, and sure enough it did, so I put the filler in the location provided to stow the second, plug, put two of the 2157 LED bulbs I originally had in the original housings into the sockets, and slapped them into the turn signal location. Not technically legal, since the lens is clear, and the bulbs are red, and Texas DMV law hasn't caught up to the reality of LED bulbs to allow any colored bulb in a clear lens that ain't amber, but the work and look fine, and I like that extra little bit of tail and brake light.
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Nov 20, 2021 01:12
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Grinding away at the 7.3 ZF6 swap. Got the valley bare to give it it's first and last good clean with like a gallon of purple power. Up pipes in the morning, then flywheel, then I'll probably have to buy a new transmission jack to get this loving monster in. It makes the 4R100 look like a little baby transmission
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Nov 20, 2021 02:36
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The harbor freight 800lb is great for the price. I've used mine... For five projects now (on 3 vehicles) and it's been great every time. One of those was a cast iron nv4500 with an np241 hanging off it, both full of fluid, which works out to about 300 pounds of lopsided off-balance hate. I can't recall your location but if you're anywhere near Central Mass you're more than welcome to borrow mine or even buy it for a significant discount if you wanted to, I don't expect to use it again until I'm 3000 miles from here and I'm rapidly coming to terms with how much I need to offload to avoid wasting money on moving my remaining possessions.
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Nov 20, 2021 03:21
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Darchangel posted:Pretty sure they won't fit, BTW. He was 6'3", knees in the wheel and head almost hitting the roof but he had a blast driving it. He's going to think about it and let me know sometime next week. Was a poo poo connection/corrosion causing the no-start so easy fix.
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Nov 20, 2021 11:31
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kastein posted:The harbor freight 800lb is great for the price. I have the same one and it has been used for transmissions, rear ends, front suspension assemblies and even lifting an engine up little so I can take the mount off to get to a freeze plug that was leaking. Can’t fault it for the money.
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Nov 20, 2021 13:20
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kastein posted:The harbor freight 800lb is great for the price. I've used mine... For five projects now (on 3 vehicles) and it's been great every time. One of those was a cast iron nv4500 with an np241 hanging off it, both full of fluid, which works out to about 300 pounds of lopsided off-balance hate. I appreciate the offer but I'm in WI. I went to hazard fraught for the 800lb unit but they were out and so was the one on the other side of town so I just got the bigger one to get it done while it's still 50 degrees.
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Nov 21, 2021 06:29
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 My friend painted my targa top and halo on his twitch stream. got em polished up and back on. Should be able to get my body kit on this week, and then I'm just waiting on the axleback exhaust and e85 fuel pump for the supercharger power project.
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Nov 22, 2021 06:13
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 The Spitfire's windshield support was Swiss cheese in places that are structural, but won't be visible once the windshield and rubber are in. The whole assembly is no longer available, and it looks like it was initially brazed together. I made up some new bent flanges out of .025" for one side of it, cut out the old ones, tig welded them in (instead of braising) and ground back the bead so that I could actually get the windshield rubber on again. I've got another few days of this, and I should have a good windshield again. I'll cut back the flange once all the repairs are welded in, I wanted some extra metal so I wasn't welding near the edge of thin metal for no reason. I also welded up some cracks around the bonnet latches, it sounds like they all crack out here. I keep waffling about what to do one the bodywork. I found that the car had been hit in the rear corner, beating up the valence and bending the trunk floor and inner fender structure by ~1/2". I beat out the visible damage, but it bugs me knowing that things are not straight in there, even though it's a body on chassis design. The rear quarters and sills were replaced at some point in the past too, and while the fenders were done okay, the sill on one side is bad, and all of the floorboard repairs are mediocre. All of that stuff is available, so I can make the body like factory (I picked up a rotisserie recently), but I'm not sure for far I want to take it. I know if I make everything completely straight, I'll keep this car forever, but also that a Spitfire "isn't worth it."
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Nov 22, 2021 15:20
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I filled the radiator on my pickup using the vacuum filler gizmo. It could not have been simpler. Put the gizmo in the radiator, plug off the overflow tube. Connect shop air and open the valve until the radiator hoses are all collapsed and the gauge says -25 mmHG or so. Close the shop air valve, make sure the system holds vacuum for a little while. Put the end of the fill tube in a big bucket of diluted coolant. Open the other valve and wait a minute or so until the system is no longer sucking in coolant and the coolant in the clear filler hose drops back into the big bucket. Done. I painted the front and rear calipers on my SC 400. The car has four-piston monoblock front calipers from a 1999 LS 400. I did all the POR-15 steps (use their special degreaser, metal prep acid, POR-15, then caliper paint) but it did not stick at all. I don't POR-15 works on whatever the caliper is made from (aluminum I think? the calipers are pretty heavy, but they are also really big). I took the calipers off the car (the front brake hoses looked sketchy anyway) and chemically stripped the paint that I couldn't remove with a wire wheel. Sigh. I'm going to mask the sensitive parts, scuff them up, spray with some regular etching primer, and try some normal spray can caliper spray. The rear calipers (iron) took their paint just fine.
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Nov 22, 2021 16:42
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Jesus H Christ: How the last owner fixed it, basically, but this is just step one, and I think I put a little more effort in (memory foam + gorilla tape):  Add seat covers and voila, good enough:  Dash Designs/Seat Designs seat covers in the most luxurious Tweed, I'm very happy with the fit/quality. If you ever install these, just take the loving seat out. Trust me.
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Nov 22, 2021 19:33
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NitroSpazzz posted:He was 6'3", knees in the wheel and head almost hitting the roof but he had a blast driving it. He's going to think about it and let me know sometime next week. Was a poo poo connection/corrosion causing the no-start so easy fix. Looking at it when I sat in one at a new car show, I could easily fit if the base on the seat was shortened. Maybe that's an option? A little custom fabrication. PBCrunch posted:I filled the radiator on my pickup using the vacuum filler gizmo. It could not have been simpler. Put the gizmo in the radiator, plug off the overflow tube. Connect shop air and open the valve until the radiator hoses are all collapsed and the gauge says -25 mmHG or so. Close the shop air valve, make sure the system holds vacuum for a little while. Put the end of the fill tube in a big bucket of diluted coolant. Open the other valve and wait a minute or so until the system is no longer sucking in coolant and the coolant in the clear filler hose drops back into the big bucket. Done. Interesting. Usually POR-15 sticks pretty damned good. I've never tried it on aluminum, though. I had decent results brushing on KBS Coating's "Motor Coater" high-heat engine paint on the calipers of my Crown Vic (which are cast iron.) I couldn't find traditional caliper paint in white like I wanted. The Motor Coater seems to be holding up well. I've got some chips, but I also didn't prep obsessively. Stuff is thick and self-leveling. You pretty much only get one coat before it starts getting too sticky to recoat, but it's all you really need. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/motor-coater-kit.html That's the kit with degreaser, et. al., but if you've got all that, you can get just the paint: https://www.kbs-coatings.com/motor-coater.html It does come in spray, but I got the brush specifically so I didn't have to mask off everything to paint them on the car. I just got the pint, and it was more than enough for 4 non-performance calipers. Motor Coater is also available on Amazon, but not any cheaper, except they may include free shipping. I replaced the O2 sensor on our '03 Outback (H6.) O2 sensor connection is nicely available:  once you reposition the air box (which is only 2 M8 bolts and the hose clamp):  And the O2 sensor itself is readily accessible:  Didn't even need a special snowflake wrench (both types of which I have, of course, because the Kia *did* need them.) A plain old 7/8" open-end wrench did the trick. I didn't even have to remove the undertray. Thank you, Subaru. I appreciate that. It needed and air filter, too:  The Crown Vic had a flaky switchback LED turn signal lamp. I found the issue readily enough:  Soldered all those leads back on, plus the surface mount diode that was pulled off by the adhesive when I took it apart:  Plus one lead on the *other* side's lamp, which was working fine, but wouldn't have if inserted the other way, because of it. Lastly, the '79 RX-7 got some attention after a couple months of neglect: Marked for surgery:  Cancer excised:    Incidentally, those two angled ribs? They're drains that in theory let any moisture trapped between the layers out:  (the tube brush at top, and screwdriver at bottom.) The issue here, is that the moisture was on top, trapped in the carpet and underlay. Because winter, it got dark (and I wanted to go see Dune,) so wire-brushing the paint and remaining surface rust back, and throwing some weld-through primer on was as far as I got. Next will be to make a pattern, cut some steel, and start throwing sparks. Winter's going to slow that project down again, of course, but I hope to get a few more things done.
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Nov 22, 2021 19:52
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Krakkles posted:Jesus H Christ: Your body heat will melt the adhesive on the tape and make a big gooey slimy mess.
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Nov 22, 2021 20:39
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The backup plan is to go find a non-power whatever-color driver seat in a junkyard and swap it out, but I'm willing to try this. If it were (most brands of tape), I'd bet on that happening, but Gorilla tape I've left holding body parts on in the sun in southwestern US for a very long time. Honestly, it can get as messy as it wants as long as it stays under the seat cover.
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Nov 22, 2021 20:54
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Krakkles posted:The backup plan is to go find a non-power whatever-color driver seat in a junkyard and swap it out, but I'm willing to try this. If it were (most brands of tape), I'd bet on that happening, but Gorilla tape I've left holding body parts on in the sun in southwestern US for a very long time. I used gorilla tape on my cracking pleather recliner. it gets nasty. If anything it's worse than normal duct tape in this specific application because of how thick the adhesive is. i'm eventually going to buy half a cow and contact cement it to the armrests, but the gorilla tape experiment went very poorly. maybe measure out your bolt holes and hit up the pick-n-pull. you should be able to find something that will bolt in with a little modification. Or maybe something that will attach to your existing rails. I've got heated acura seats in my F250 and it owns. huge bolsters for all that high-G cornering the truck is naturally capable of. For something as tame as a mustang you might be looking more at buick or cadillac. They're $40 a seat for manual seats, almost cheaper than gorilla tape. They might try to get you for airbags if the seats have em though. 
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Nov 22, 2021 21:18
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Thanks, dude
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Nov 22, 2021 22:57
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Parts arrived to fix the above mentioned hydrolock on my 7.3l. $220 and I've got new International Cups, OE o-ring kits, and 4oz of Loctite 620. Just waiting for my friend to stop by with his puller/installer kit. And for a nice day. Winter is not the time to be fixing this, but I'll survive. 
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Nov 22, 2021 23:55
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Ball joint was shot on the Peugeot, didn't pass inspection. It was 5 bux more expensive to get a whole control arm WITH ball joint than buying just the ball joint. That roll bar, very important on this 60hp monster. (Only 770kg (1700lbs) tho, it's actually pretty fun.)  Also the brake was dragging pretty bad on the front, same side, so new caliper it is. 40 bux.  And since the car is so so tiny, the rear mount of the control arm is actually under the drivers' feet. The flap for access through the sound deadening is pre-cut from the factory. The moisture shield was intact before I got in there, so likely the original 1992 control arm.  And yes, its' got 3 bolt wheels.
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Nov 23, 2021 00:25
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Went and visited it in the shop. It’s getting a new belt tensioner, crank seal, oil pan gasket, oil cooler o-rings, water pump, low speed fan resistor, radiator core support, and a bunch of assorted cleaning. It had an oil leak and a small coolant leak so we figured while it was all apart we might as well do it all instead of putting it together half-fixed.  Could I have done it all myself? Sure. But there’s a MINI specialist literally a mile from my house so why not have the guy who knows things take care of it?
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Nov 23, 2021 01:10
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Froze my rear end off yesterday when the 30 mph wind started but I got the ZF6 in and sitting on the crossmember. Now I just have to chip away at all the remaining little bullshit so I can at least drive this thing around the yard e: forgot I wanted to complain about the south bend product documentation. I was expecting just a single piece of paper with torque specs and maybe a diagram of the hardware stack because some of their 7.3 flywheels in the past retained the OEM Ford washer ring that the flywheel bolts go through. Instead I get a completely insane 15 page tiny booklet that's like a dr bronners soap bottle worth of product placement for weird truck poo poo and install procedures for everything they make except the single disc 7.3 kit I ordered. Yerok fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 03:15
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Darchangel posted:Looking at it when I sat in one at a new car show, I could easily fit if the base on the seat was shortened. Maybe that's an option? A little custom fabrication. Powershift posted:I've got heated acura seats in my F250 and it owns. huge bolsters for all that high-G cornering the truck is naturally capable of. For something as tame as a mustang you might be looking more at buick or cadillac. They're $40 a seat for manual seats, almost cheaper than gorilla tape. They might try to get you for airbags if the seats have em though. Nidhg00670000 posted:Ball joint was shot on the Peugeot, didn't pass inspection. It was 5 bux more expensive to get a whole control arm WITH ball joint than buying just the ball joint.
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Nov 23, 2021 11:16
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Yerok posted:Froze my rear end off yesterday when the 30 mph wind started but I got the ZF6 in and sitting on the crossmember. Now I just have to chip away at all the remaining little bullshit so I can at least drive this thing around the yard Yea, I put their clutch in my VW and all it came with was one sheet in size 69 font telling you that loving up the installation isn't their fault (or something like thaht).
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Nov 23, 2021 15:01
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NitroSpazzz posted:Which Peugeot is this?  1992 Peugeot 106 1.1 litre, 60 hp. Monopoint injection, no ABS. Front discs are 238mm. Bought it as a learner car for my then gf, has been kept around as a spare car for when anyone I know needs to borrow it.
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Nov 24, 2021 03:56
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chrisgt posted:Yea, I put their clutch in my VW and all it came with was one sheet in size 69 font telling you that loving up the installation isn't their fault (or something like thaht). That and the lovely rear end sticker non vinyl sticker on the pressure plate fingers that I had to scrape off because it was applied across 4 of them and didn't peel clean. I'm trying to work through the remaining poo poo to get the 7.3 to be movable if not drivable this weekend. I got around to looking up the PCM info from the donor truck and it's from a late 2001 post revisions so it's not gonna work. DP tuner now charges like $250 + shipping instead of $100 to flash my PCM from NVK3 to DAC3. Guess I'll see if any of the local Ford dealers want to do it for $100 provided with the exact hex code that I want otherwise I'll just shell out for a PHP Hydra so I can run DAC3 and also have a button to press so I don't have to turn my truck off at the Culver's drive through window
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Nov 24, 2021 05:47
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Nidhg00670000 posted:
That’s one way to keep people from asking to borrow your car. :P
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Nov 24, 2021 21:03
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106s are great little cars and I still want to drive another. Almost picked one up a year ago but last minute the guy decided he was going to keep it. Fucker.
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Nov 24, 2021 21:54
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