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Hey everyone I'm looking to build a feedback loop pedal, I want to build something that I can plug my fuzz pedal into and get some cool oscillations. I found this, and have some spare parts lying around to build it. Would this get the job done? How would I use it with a fuzz pedal, put the fuzz in send/return and the guitar signal in in/out? 
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Nov 13, 2021 19:12
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Yeah that'll work. If you don't care about having an LED that comes on when you push a switch you can make it so it doesn't even need power.
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Nov 13, 2021 21:16
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Thanks! Im making this out of spare parts and only have solid core wire on hand, can I use that or should I wait for some stranded core to come in?
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Nov 13, 2021 21:26
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Solid/stranded doesn't really matter. Just be aware solid core wire can be more fragile if it's mounted in an eclousure it smoothly shouldn't matter.
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Nov 13, 2021 21:30
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Sounds good, thank you your help
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Nov 13, 2021 21:39
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This should probably be posted here, though it requires so little work that it hardly deserves to be called DIY. I may be getting an arduino sometime after all. https://cs.gmu.edu/~sean/projects/gizmo/ http://brendanclarke.com/2014/04/23/arduino-based-midi-sequencer/ petit choux fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Nov 15, 2021 |
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Nov 15, 2021 07:45
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Woolwich Bagnet posted:Soldering is a skill that takes a lot of practice. I can hand solder 0402 resistors and 200 um pitch chips without a magnifying glass/microscope. For really small stuff it basically comes down to having the stability of a surgeon with regards to your hands. I have incredibly stable hands/fingers so I can do super small stuff. Oh, and plenty of flux. Well soldering has been my biggest lesson in this, I managed to get both devices to work, though the little synth required that I go over the solder joints 3 times before I managed to heat up a cold joint or whatever it was, it's now working and I'm running the Macchiato synth with the Altura MIDI Theremin, it's all really groovy, and since the synth's sound hasn't knocked my socks of yet, I'm running it through a couple VSTs, it's nice. But I've discovered through the process that I can't see too well and I need a whole lot of light, magnification and glasses to see enough to do it right. I've gotten a whole lot of good advice in the electronics thread, BTW. And I've now tried the MIDI theremin with about a half dozen different cheap keyboards, it makes them all shine. I had to get a MIDI foot controller to change the voices on the keyboards but I found a great deal on a Yamaha MFC-2 I guess and it can get me I think all 600-some odd voices on this one Yamaha here. Being able to rapidly change voices is a real addition that makes cheap keyboards that much more fun. While it's not as nice as having your own wave shaping ability, still, having a wide range of voices to choose from and an easy way of switching them isn't a bad thing. And in slightly higher quality gear, I got this boss MD-500 pedal with a MIDI input working with it as well, so the theremin works as an effector.  I don't know if I mentioned it but I found an unassembled kit for a Tapdrum a while back, may be my next project to help me get better with the solder. I think the highest point in the Tapdrum's lifespan was the drummer with Bela Fleck, Futureman. Tapdrum is long gone now but I think it was kinda leading edge at one point. I don't think it even has velocity or pressure, just like 8 or 12 switches.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:45
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petit choux posted:But I've discovered through the process that I can't see too well and I need a whole lot of light, magnification and glasses to see enough to do it right. Been there, done that. Now I only work on soldering together eurorack kits during daylight hours. I’m very lucky I only hosed up a $50 kit and not a $200 one.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:54
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I don't know if this is the right thread but it seems to be in its wheelhouse in a DIY spirit: I'm looking for a good way to mount two outboard rack samplers vertically because my little music corner is basically out of space. I've kind of painted myself into a really lovely corner with this setup because I never expected to have any old outboard gear but there's really no good way to have these mounted anywhere on the tabletop surface  Sorry for the clutter, this was taken in frustration while I was working on the space and realized it just wasn't going to fly. The guitars on the wall are killing my available space and I'll have to shift them up but that's doable -- the bigger problem is that the rack samplers are just not going to work on the minimal surface, especially if I want to angle them up on a small incline rack to make them usable without having to hunch over on the stool. So bla bla bla long story short I'm looking for a small-ish rack that will let me mount 19" gear vertically to the immediate right of this whole kallax mess. I'd love for it to fit in with the existing college dorm ikea black furniture look since that ship has sailed, but I'm not really sure I'll find anything that works. My thought here is that I'll end up having to buy another Kallax unit and just cobble together something that works. Essentially I'm thinking: buy a kallax 2x2, cut the top and bottom boards to 19" wide, cut down a pair of rails to 5U and screw them to the top of the unit, then use the cut top and bottoms to kind of make a front and back facade. Something like this  In my mind this works but I think what will break here is that Ikea furniture is basically paper and sawdust so any major cutting will go very poorly. Alternately I can just go the "lack rack" route, get two lack tables and sandwich two tops together between cut down legs (again, with lovely sawdust caveat) and forget the rails altogether. Not sure exactly what my questions is, or even if there is a question. Just kind of sounding out a possible waste of $70 in Ikea garbage, and maybe if anyone knows an existing vertical rack that doesn't look super industrial and accomplishes what I'm looking to do, that would be a bonus. It's possible that one of these:  would work but I don't think it does much to address the whole "I've got to hunch over to use these". While my vertical mount idea still has me bending over to use them I think there's a big difference between "lean over to push a button that's pointing up" and "bend over to use an interface that's parallel with the floor". Frankly it's also kid of ugly. That said, it might still be the best option here. I'm kind of talking it out 
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Nov 22, 2021 13:59
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Why not just buy a couple 4u rack rails and build one from plywood? No access to woodcutting stuff? The big box hardware stores will cut it for you, I think they charge 50 cents a cut after the first one or two, which are free. So at a bare minimum you'd mostly need a drill, bits and you can make do with the cheap sheetrock screws. Last one I made I bought a piece of synthetic corner trim, cut it, screwed it on and painted the whole thing all grey, it came out very nicely. You can even make it considerably taller, leaving you room for potentially other hardware down the road.
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Nov 22, 2021 14:45
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That's actually a really good point, and mostly that I don't want to do any staining/painting in the house during winter. But if I can get around that I think it's probably a better solution than the hacking I proposed above. Maybe wrapping it in vinyl and going for the "road case" look?
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Nov 22, 2021 15:00
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Hey everyone. I'm building a homemade amp for my Dad for Christmas based on a Fender Champ. My soldering skills are good and I could just wire it from a diagram, but I'm trying to truly understand the circuit as I build it just for my own knowledge. Right now I'm studying the tone stack, and I have a question about this tone stack I was hoping someone could help me with The website says there are 4 filters: 3 high pass filters (CR filters between the treble cap and treble pot, bass cap and bass pot, and mid cap and mid pot) and one low pass filter (an RC filter made between the tone slope resistor and the mid cap) my question is why does the tone slope resistor and mid cap make a low pass RC filter, but not the tone slope resistor and bass cap? Shouldn't that also make a low pass filter?
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Nov 22, 2021 15:01
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Martytoof posted:That's actually a really good point, and mostly that I don't want to do any staining/painting in the house during winter. Yeah, I found all kinds of adhesive black faux leather-ish vinyl for repairing amp cases on ebay, I imagine you can stick it right on there. But you can probably use anything you like, including any wallpaper or floor covering. Any fabric.
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Nov 22, 2021 15:08
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Kvlt! posted:my question is why does the tone slope resistor and mid cap make a low pass RC filter, but not the tone slope resistor and bass cap? Shouldn't that also make a low pass filter? Or something, I'm still learning this stuff myself.
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Nov 22, 2021 15:53
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Siivola posted:I'm somewhat sure you could analyse the circuit as if there was, but that would leave you with two identical filters pushing voltage in opposite directions. Ultimately it is the mid cap that filters out the highs because there's less resistance between it and the ground than between the bass cap and the ground. Ah ok I see what you're saying. I think my problem is not viewing it as one complete circuit and rather looking for "cap in series with resistor...okay that looks like a CR high pass filter!" etc. Thank you!
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Nov 22, 2021 16:01
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So I can add soldering to the list of things I hate, and I can also add the SparkFun MIDI shield to the list of things I’ve ruined. Turns out melting metal is really hard and finicky and if you don’t know exactly what you’re doing, you’ll ruin tour tools and materials!
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Nov 25, 2021 00:53
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Pollyanna posted:So I can add soldering to the list of things I hate, and I can also add the SparkFun MIDI shield to the list of things I’ve ruined. Turns out melting metal is really hard and finicky and if you don’t know exactly what you’re doing, you’ll ruin tour tools and materials! Hey don't worry too much polly, it takes time, preparation, practice and the right tools.
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Nov 25, 2021 00:58
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I can certainly blame this piece of garbage: Whoever said “it’s just a soldering iron, it doesn’t need to be complicated” is a goddamn liar 
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Nov 25, 2021 01:24
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Pollyanna posted:I can certainly blame this piece of garbage: Yes, been there, I eventually discovered you can get a really cheap good one online that probably won't last for a long time but then again I'm liable to gently caress it up anyway so I might as well go with it before committing to an expensive iron. Temp control, a selection of tips, good stuff.
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Nov 25, 2021 01:32
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The really cheap "nice" soldering iron I bought like 20 years ago thinking when it breaks I'll just get a nicer one hasn't let me down yet. Up until last year I was still using the original tip that came with it.
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Nov 25, 2021 01:52
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Is that a 25W iron? My first iron was a 25W Weller and... yeah, not great. But I built a Paia 9700 with it. If you want to go cheap, get another similar iron that's at least 40 watts. I, on the other hand, went all-out and got a Hakko digital soldering station earlier this year. I figure if I'm planning to do multiple kits that cost between $100-$200, I might as well get a $100 soldering iron, and it's definitely made things a lot easier. Also, don't use lead-free solder. I know lead is scary stuff, but lead-free solder is garbage. Use a fan to blow fumes away from you (those fumes are mostly flux, not lead, but still not great to breathe in), and then be sure to throughly wash your hands after a soldering session, and then thoroughly wash them again before touching any food or eating/drinking anything.
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Nov 25, 2021 02:04
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Are any Weller soldering irons actually bad? I’ve only had good experiences with them, admittedly mostly heavy duty ones used with leaded glass. E- now I see the post above and yeah I guess 25 is too weak 
Snowy fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 25, 2021 |
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Nov 25, 2021 02:07
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Snowy posted:Are any Weller soldering irons actually bad? I’ve only had good experiences with them, admittedly mostly heavy duty ones used with leaded glass. No but I think that one isn't suited very well to fine work. Speaking from personal experience.
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Nov 25, 2021 02:09
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For what it’s worth, this is getting REALLY good reviews some places and compared with the TS100 and TS80Ps: https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ At $25USD plus whatever shipping it’s almost a no brainer given that TS100s are multiple that price. I have nothing bad to say about my TS80P and I use it for light PCB soldering all the time — it even does ok with heavy ground planes if you give it enough time to melt. A TS100P or TS80P is one of those hobby purchases I think almost everyone who thinks they’ll ever tinker should make and just forget about “just to have”, and this one is like 1/4 of the price and supposedly pretty good. Not pitching it but life is way too short to ruin projects with a hardware store soldering iron 
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Nov 25, 2021 02:15
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I only solder through-hole not SMD but seconding the leaded solder tip. If you're safe about it there's no harm and it's better in every way.
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Nov 25, 2021 02:39
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I have a stash of the radio shack hi-tech solder it has like 2% silver in it. It heats up and cools down extremely quickly and always gives a nice shiny solder joint. I have to start researching what I can use when this runs out since I can't just pop down to the mall and pick up a new roll anymore.
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Nov 25, 2021 02:48
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Snowy posted:Are any Weller soldering irons actually bad? I’ve only had good experiences with them, admittedly mostly heavy duty ones used with leaded glass. Yeah, I didn't mean to call out Weller as a bad brand or anything, they're just the most readily available ones you'd find in hardware stores and, back in the day, RadioShacks. The point was 25W sucks. A 40W Weller is probably fine. Getting a Weller digital soldering station might be just as good as a Hakko and cheaper, I don't know. A lot of people online who do DIY eurorack kits swear by the Hakko, so when I committed myself to doing that, I went with it as well, and I've been quite happy with it.
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Nov 25, 2021 03:02
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Thumposaurus posted:I have a stash of the radio shack hi-tech solder it has like 2% silver in it. It heats up and cools down extremely quickly and always gives a nice shiny solder joint. I'm still using an old roll of RadioShack solder from 2007. Great stuff, and I don't think mine even has any silver in it. The new hotness is apparently Kester brand solder. I bought a 1lb spool of their 60/40 leaded 0.8mm rosin core solder based off of recommendations online, but haven't opened it yet, so no experience with it.
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Nov 25, 2021 03:10
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LOL yes, using my old Radio Shack spool of solder but it doesn't appear to have any silver, it says 60-40 rosin core.
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Nov 25, 2021 03:52
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petit choux posted:LOL yes, using my old Radio Shack spool of solder but it doesn't appear to have any silver, it says 60-40 rosin core. Same.
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Nov 25, 2021 03:58
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Looking for more help witha new instrument. Just got a Suzuki HP-275e digital piano. Having some trouble with about 1/4 of the keys. Some of the keys, mostly on the right hand side, will just produce a very quick note with absolutly zero sustain or fade out. It's random keys, not whole sections attached to the same board. I tried cleaning the membranes with alcohol, which did not help and actually has made some of the keys produce no sound at all now. The carbon pads don't appear to be worn down, but I did try adding some conductive nickel ink and it didn't make any difference. Anyone know what might be the issue? I'm very confident it's the membrane, but finding help online about how to repair worn membrane buttons isn't producing much. Thanks for any help!
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Nov 25, 2021 20:10
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Martytoof posted:For what it’s worth, this is getting REALLY good reviews some places and compared with the TS100 and TS80Ps: I'd be careful with the people at pine64. I ordered a pinecil and a power supply back in October and it was almost a month before I got an update. Update was they decided the $12 shipping I'd paid wasn't enough and wanted another $12. Gave me the choice of paying up or they'd return 85% of what I'd originally paid.
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Nov 26, 2021 05:32
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That stinks. Good callout though. Shipping is actually more than the cost of this product in CDN$ which is why I haven’t pulled the trigger on one (aside from the fact that I already own two other new irons) so maybe it’s not as amazing a deal as I thought. I mean in the sense that after shipping it’s within striking distance of a TS100P on amazon if you have prime or something. Reviews of this are still generally positive leaning from those who own one but maybe there’s more than meets the eye
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Nov 27, 2021 06:18
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Martytoof posted:That stinks. Good callout though. Shipping is actually more than the cost of this product in CDN$ which is why I haven’t pulled the trigger on one (aside from the fact that I already own two other new irons) so maybe it’s not as amazing a deal as I thought. My order arrived today, about 10 days to the UK from dispatch but around 3 weeks or so from payment to demand for extra money then dispatch. The iron is a bit bare bones, comes in a box with a tip and nothing else, no allen key to allow the tip to be inserted, no instructions at all. Quick test and it seems fine. I have a TS100P and a SQ-001 which it is seems comparable to but build quality while adequate isn't up to the standard of either. The SQ-001 is a decent middle ground between the TS100P and the pinecil. Can get the iron and power supply for around $50 direct and a lot of drone/hobby websites seem to be stocking it. https://sequremall.com/collections/soldering-iron-kit
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Nov 27, 2021 14:55
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Not going to be able to afford that one yet, but I'd sure love to have one. Anybody like any butane powered ones? In other news I got new flux, magnification, Arduino, the MIDI shield and I'm probably going forward with that this weekend. Still wanting to try this: http://brendanclarke.com/2014/04/23/arduino-based-midi-sequencer/
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Nov 27, 2021 16:03
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petit choux posted:Well soldering has been my biggest lesson in this, I managed to get both devices to work, though the little synth required that I go over the solder joints 3 times before I managed to heat up a cold joint or whatever it was Really late to reply but glad you got it working! Soldering iron chat: Last week at work I needed to repair a trigger cable for an instrument (I'm an analytical chemist) so I went to our engineering dept and used one of their soldering irons. They have these https://www.weller-tools.com/professional/USA/us/Professional/Product+lines/WT+Line/Soldering+stations+and+sets/WR3M ($1900 for the supply by itself!) I am in love. It's 1000x better than the one that I have at home and I think it's on my list of Christmas items to get for myself. Obviously I don't need a three channel but a one channel 150 W would be amazing. Looks like those are $600 or so with iron. I'm sure I can find them cheaper on ebay or something. Solder chat: I only use Kester solder, leaded. I use this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-8800-Activated-Solder-No-Clean/dp/B00068IJOU. 63/37 and it works great. I have large diameter for through hole and small for SMDs and whatnot. Consequently my work uses the same brand. edit: I have a digital microscope I use to check my SMD work when the pitch is ~200 um or less, but don't bother with larger and through hole since I've done it a million times and can tell from a glance if it sucks or not. Woolwich Bagnet fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Nov 28, 2021 |
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Nov 28, 2021 15:21
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Woolwich Bagnet posted:Really late to reply but glad you got it working! And thanks again for all your help and discussion, it's been very instructive. Today I'm hoping to solder together an Arduino MIDI shield and assemble my first Arduino, though actually the MIDI Theremin is an Arduino device too. And which I've pretty much always got plugged into something, today it being this Roland xp-10 with sticky keys (I couldn't wait to fix it.) It is so great. Running it into REAPER, and a handful of old freeware VSTs, sounds so awesome. I accidentally mashed down some of the keys on the Roland while the arp was on and running through a couple nice VSTs, and the keys got stuck in a Em triad and I stopped in awe of how great it sounded so I hit record, went and took a shower. I think John Cage would have no problem with this, so I'm good. Special thanks to Jack Dark.
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Nov 28, 2021 16:16
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Yeah no problem. Also if you don't already have some, you should get some tinner to clean the tip of the soldering iron. It should be shiny. https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltronics-FBA_TMT-TC-2-Lead-Tinner-Container/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ And if you don't have one, get a regular tip cleaner as well: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Wire-type-soldering-cleaner/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ You just poke the soldering iron in and it removes excess solder from it.
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Nov 28, 2021 17:06
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I ordered the Yihua 939D+, so hopefully with some practice and lessons I won’t gently caress up soldering like I did with the poo poo one. Still not sure how comfortable I am with leaded solder, though.
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Nov 28, 2021 17:15
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Pollyanna posted:I ordered the Yihua 939D+, so hopefully with some practice and lessons I won’t gently caress up soldering like I did with the poo poo one. Still not sure how comfortable I am with leaded solder, though. Lead has a boiling point of 1750 C. You aren't vaporizing it. The fumes are from the flux. Wear gloves if you don't want to get any lead on your fingers, and either use an extractor, a fan next to an open window, or wear a respirator if you're concerned about the fumes. Also please please please wear safety glasses when soldering. It can pop and you don't want molten solder in your eye.
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Nov 28, 2021 17:21
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