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It was a loving fuse. My blown mobo was not blown. It was the fuse in the power switch. A two dollar fuse and I can finally at least take a shot at figuring out what the gently caress is up with my steppers!
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Nov 22, 2021 20:11
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I'd think it was underextrusion caused by the tube coming out. I'd say it's a partial clog if the second print is also crumbly, but if the second print is fine, it was probably the tube. The first print was fine, a bit of stringing between the windows but nothing 30 seconds with a modeling knife couldn't fix, the second one (the square building with the round pillars) is the one that's crumbly. I'll replace the couplers and bowden tube tonight and try another building as a test print.
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Nov 22, 2021 20:19
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Roundboy posted:Cooling. Turn off the cooling fan (set it to zero) for the initial layers. There is a debate on using a cooling fan at all for the rest of it, or at the very least having the max be 20% and you ramp up to that. It has to be hot to stick together, and if you let it cool too much, it will melt and flow, but the layers will be very brittle and cause a weak area. Hmm, I'll try playing with the cooling options but it was doing this with the fans turned off entirely. I'm wondering if it has something to do with being right next to a window in a room that gets fairly cold in a 130 year old house with poo poo insulation. It makes me wish I would have attempted to figure out how to use PETG a month ago when we were still having 60 degree days with no snow.
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Nov 22, 2021 20:38
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Jadius posted:Hmm, I'll try playing with the cooling options but it was doing this with the fans turned off entirely. I'm wondering if it has something to do with being right next to a window in a room that gets fairly cold in a 130 year old house with poo poo insulation. It makes me wish I would have attempted to figure out how to use PETG a month ago when we were still having 60 degree days with no snow. leave the hotend fan on, but yes turn the part fan off. Yes, a cold wind blowing over the part will absolutely do the same thing, and depending on the size of the part on the build plate, can also make it curl up. Cura has an option for printing a shield around the whole part (dont do this) but it could not hurt to make an enclosure or at least slow it down to keep temps up
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Nov 22, 2021 21:09
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My wife is thinking about getting a 3D printer for her craft room, is the Anycubic Mega S any good? It's currently on sale on Amazon.ca. I'm wanting something that's fairly easy to put together and doesn't require much in the way of calibrating (and ideally no post-assembly upgrading needed. I had enough of that with the Ender 3 Pro). Basically, something that I can help her get up and running, then she can use without any real fuss. Preferably something that can also take octoprint.
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Nov 22, 2021 21:52
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Randalor posted:My wife is thinking about getting a 3D printer for her craft room, is the Anycubic Mega S any good? It's currently on sale on Amazon.ca. None of the usual suspects on 3d printer reviews that I follow have posted any videos about them that I can find (at least, none of the ones I trust to post useful reviews rather than just another "Yeah it's great, get it"). For $179 with Prime shipping though you might as well give it a shot. Just make sure you keep the box so you can return it in whatever return window Amazon has for it if you find out it can't print a Benchy without fiddling with something.
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Nov 22, 2021 21:59
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So my extruder fan has started making a terrible noise on my ender 3v2, I assume the bearing in it is starting to go out. Any idea on what size fan I would need to replace it?
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Nov 22, 2021 22:36
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GotDonuts posted:So my extruder fan has started making a terrible noise on my ender 3v2, I assume the bearing in it is starting to go out. Any idea on what size fan I would need to replace it? 4010 (40mm x 10mm) running 24v is a direct replacement. Finding the same in a quiet fan would be worth it as well, but I'm reading to avoid the popular Noctua choice, as it doesnt actually push enough air to cool the heatsink. I see posts going both ways though. If you go bigger you need to print new base and assorted things. If you go any other voltage then 24v you need a way to convert 24v to 12v (or whatever voltage you got.) Air flow matters here to stop the heat creep
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Nov 22, 2021 23:19
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Wow. I think I finally found out why I have been having so much trouble printing ASA. I happened to look at the spool and it says PLA on the side.  This would probably explain the horrendous clog that happened. I definitely ordered ASA and that's what it says on the box. I am trying the other spool I ordered that is marked ASA to confirm.
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Nov 22, 2021 23:19
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Roundboy posted:4010 (40mm x 10mm) running 24v is a direct replacement. Finding the same in a quiet fan would be worth it as well, but I'm reading to avoid the popular Noctua choice, as it doesnt actually push enough air to cool the heatsink. I see posts going both ways though. https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Cooling-Creality-Brushless-Hydraulic/dp/B07NQ2B11H?th=1 Would something like this work well, figured if I am replacing the one fan I might as well fix the other. EDIT: Also while printing with my rainbow glow in the dark filament my filament snapped when I was almost done printing my giant dragon dick. I think the fan loving up may have contributed but I also am looking for ideas on how to keep it from snapping again when I attempt another print. Any help would be appreciated as always. GotDonuts fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 00:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:yeah the alloy i’m using isn’t strong enough to actually apply real-wrench torque at real-wrench scales from a conventional wrench-shaped tool, so i’m not too worried- the wrench would break before the fastener would strip or deform. i may either scale it down/tweak it and turn it into a (usable) bottle opener with an interesting pedigree, or else add a decorative scroll to the tip + some embossed decoration to the sides, to signal that it is perhaps not a toolbox workhorse Next do a fractal vise
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Nov 23, 2021 01:15
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Not that I think you deserve it because nobody helped me with my tensioning question (I tightened both up to "Couldn't noticeably move the head/platen at all if I held the motor in place" which seemed about right and the test print I'm doing now seems visibly smoother), but attention nerds: https://www.humblebundle.com/softwa...tm_medium=email Humble Bundle are doing 50 high-quality D&D and fantasy miniature STLs for £15
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Nov 23, 2021 01:46
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Getting a weird issue right now on one of my Mono X machines. Using the same settings and resin I've been using for months, all of a sudden my prints are brutally overexposed (fused supports, impossible to remove, etc). The same file on my other Mono X prints fine. I'm assuming this is a sign of something dying in the machine, but every screen failure I've experienced has been very different than this. Do you guys have any ideas?
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Nov 23, 2021 04:35
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InternetJunky posted:Getting a weird issue right now on one of my Mono X machines. Using the same settings and resin I've been using for months, all of a sudden my prints are brutally overexposed (fused supports, impossible to remove, etc). The same file on my other Mono X prints fine. Double check that the exposure % isn’t higher than the others on the machine? Idk how that would happen but it’s all I can think of beyond the screen failing weirdly
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Nov 23, 2021 04:45
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Bodanarko posted:Double check that the exposure % isn’t higher than the others on the machine? Idk how that would happen but it’s all I can think of beyond the screen failing weirdly That's all I could come up with as well, but I confirmed that both are set to 100%.
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Nov 23, 2021 04:47
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GotDonuts posted:https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Cooling-Creality-Brushless-Hydraulic/dp/B07NQ2B11H?th=1 Should work, I watched a set of youtube vids on the voxelab aquila where he installed rgb winnsinn fans and made the printer noticeably quieter
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Nov 23, 2021 05:06
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If you had a budget of usd 300 give or take, were comfortable with assembly shy of welding and wanted a fdm printer, what would you buy? To be clear the family requests for “what to get people” have started so I figure we might as well goon hivemind it for the holiday sales. Anias fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 05:16
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mewse posted:Should work, I watched a set of youtube vids on the voxelab aquila where he installed rgb winnsinn fans and made the printer noticeably quieter hydraulic are oil-filled and will die. dual ball or bust
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Nov 23, 2021 05:26
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So um...will wet filament leave gigantic blobs at every seam between layers? I've been wrestling with this since last night. I've fiddled with temps, retraction, and flow rate, and a few other things but I just can't fix my nozzle incontinence. All other sides of the print are fine but right where the seam is there is a pillar of domed out material all the way from the bottom to the top of one corner probably 3mm in diameter on a 20x20x20mm cube test print. I'm away from where the printer is for a while; I will post a pic later. I meant to take one before I headed out. e: I should've also tried printing an object in spiral vase mode to see what happens come to think of it. e2: Also I left out some important info. This is happening with both a roll of PETG I've had for a year and a newish (less than a month) roll of ABS. Same issue with both. I stored them both in the same container but the PETG was not stored properly for most of the year before I put them together in a tuppperware-like thing with some dessicant packs. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 05:37
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Randalor posted:X-posting from the 3d printing for tabletop gaming thread: Where is this thread at?
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Nov 23, 2021 05:43
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how the hell long have we had two 3d print threads https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573&pagenumber=25#lastpost
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Nov 23, 2021 05:53
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Anias posted:If you had a budget of usd 300 give or take, were comfortable with assembly shy of welding and wanted a fdm printer, what would you buy? Sockser posted:Can you afford a Prusa? Get a Prusa https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-mini/ $350
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Nov 23, 2021 06:28
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the 3d printing student said "master, how will i know when i have achieved enlightenment?" the master replied  "when you are no longer looking for it."
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Nov 23, 2021 06:43
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Holy poo poo did you get rid of the seams? What kind of deal with the devil did you do to get print quality like that??
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Nov 23, 2021 07:06
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Holy poo poo did you get rid of the seams? What kind of deal with the devil did you do to get print quality like that?? The gray filament is doing a lot of work, you can see them when you get closer. It's a brand new, out of bag and straight into the filadryer roll of hatchbox gray. The settings are my usual 'fast big object' ones: https://pastebin.com/MdrLckWn Printed as such:  Also, I think the seams just hide a bit better on that object. Deviant fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 07:16
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Deviant posted:The gray filament is doing a lot of work, you can see them when you get closer. PrusaSlicer is pretty smart, and will attempt to put seams on hard angles where it can So your fish that's made up of nothing but curves? Can't hide 'em Seams on a cube? never know they're there E: actually, slice this up, show retractions, should pop the seams Sockser fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 08:00
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Protip I forgot to mention. Spend a few bucks and get a uv flashlight. After you get finished washing your hands/arms from working with resin, you can shine it on your arms (or go outside if it's daylight) and it'll show and cure any leftover resin you missed. It'll get warm if it's a smear or small drop (i.e. not noticable), and after a few seconds it'll cure completely and you can scrub it off. For anything big enough to be painfully hot or burning, you need to go back to the early pandemic days and relearn how to wash your hands. I keep mine near the sink. Think it was 6 bucks off Amazon, and it's worth 6 bucks to me for the peace of mind that I'm not spreading resin all over creation and potentially poisoning any animals I pet.
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Nov 23, 2021 08:03
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Deviant posted:The gray filament is doing a lot of work, you can see them when you get closer. Still, it looks great. Nice
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Nov 23, 2021 08:37
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Protip I forgot to mention. Spend a few bucks and get a uv flashlight. After you get finished washing your hands/arms from working with resin, you can shine it on your arms (or go outside if it's daylight) and it'll show and cure any leftover resin you missed. It'll get warm if it's a smear or small drop (i.e. not noticable), and after a few seconds it'll cure completely and you can scrub it off. For anything big enough to be painfully hot or burning, you need to go back to the early pandemic days and relearn how to wash your hands. Or wear loving gloves, if you’re having to cure resin off of your skin you’ve already hosed up quite a bit.
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Nov 23, 2021 11:22
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I wear gloves. Sometimes there's a splash or you arm rubs against the build plate. Weird poo poo happens so I keep a uv light just in case. I've only actually gotten resin on my forearms once, and that was enough for me to want to make sure I didn't get it anywhere else too.
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Nov 23, 2021 11:48
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Randalor posted:*Words about buying my wife a 3D printer* So last night I gave her the choice between the Monoprice Mini (smaller build plate, but comes pre-assembled so she wouldn't necessarily need my help to get up and running) and the Anycubic Mega S (bigger build plate, lower price due to Amazon sale, but some assembly requires). She decided to go with the Mega S. The reviews I could find online made them sound both fairly beginner friendlyz so in theory both should have worked for her needs. When she said she wanted to make Christmas ornaments with it, I didn't realize she meant 8"+ sized ones.
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Nov 23, 2021 14:49
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Going to be a lot of fun when she realizes she won't get to make very many 8" Christmas ornaments between now and Christmas unless they're the flat snowflake/clipart type with words/phrases in them.
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Nov 23, 2021 15:26
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I recently noticed that after doing some resin prints the backs of my forearms get itchy and break out a bit. I’m guessing this is from micro-droplets of contaminated IPA splashing on my arms while cleaning. So I bought a long sleeved lab coat to wear while cleaning prints, now I look and feel like a proper mad scientist while printing.
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Nov 23, 2021 15:26
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Going to be a lot of fun when she realizes she won't get to make very many 8" Christmas ornaments between now and Christmas unless they're the flat snowflake/clipart type with words/phrases in them. Oh? I'm curious about why you say that (though most of the ones she showed me were large-but-flat).
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Nov 23, 2021 15:45
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Randalor posted:Oh? I'm curious about why you say that (though most of the ones she showed me were large-but-flat). Assuming everything is point and click, meaning it needs no tweaking and you just hit 'print' and go... you are looking at 6-17 hours of printing each depending on the complexity. A big object doesn't necessarily take longer only because of size, but the more there is NOT a straight continuous line, the more the time goes up. On a large object, even the movements needed to go from one side to another not printing, or skipping over a void add up to a couple hours. .... and then you might have a problem.
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Nov 23, 2021 15:52
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Roundboy posted:Assuming everything is point and click, meaning it needs no tweaking and you just hit 'print' and go... you are looking at 6-17 hours of printing each depending on the complexity. Oh, yeah, I'm pretty sure she knew that just from my ender 3. I was worried there was a filament shortage that I had missed hearing about or something. I think she'll just be happy that she doesn't need to wait for me to finish tinkering/adjusting/replacing parts on the Ender 3 before she can make her own stuff, and this way she can take as long as she wants to clear her build plate and I'm not stuck waiting for her to take her meeples off of the sheet.
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Nov 23, 2021 15:56
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Christmas ornaments sounds like a job for a resin printer honestly.
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Nov 23, 2021 16:09
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Randalor posted:Oh? I'm curious about why you say that (though most of the ones she showed me were large-but-flat). Because even the fastest filament printers on the market take hours to print things of any appreciable size, and the linear print movement speed dick waving people do about their machines mean very if you're printing anything that isn't a box. Because curves and non-linear shapes slow a printer down.
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Nov 23, 2021 16:12
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InternetJunky posted:Christmas ornaments sounds like a job for a resin printer honestly. Also this. Most of your globe/whatever shaped ornaments that you'd insert a hook and cap into would be perfect for printing so that the opening faces the "top" of the print and resin can drain out. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 16:13
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Any Longer LK1 owners done calibrating? It's driving me mad right now because none of the Marlin gcode works like I would expect it. M503 reports nothing, PID Tuning just seems to kill the machine etc. Anyone know what might be up with that? They don't even seem to have my firmware version on their website.
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Nov 23, 2021 16:20
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