|
tangy yet delightful posted:I've never tried contrast over varnish, just random primer. Now I'm intrigued. I assume you use gloss varnish? Either works, it just needs to be a surface that won't absorb pigment or medium, but that paint will stick to. Primers tend to be very textured, to give good grip to other paints - but that keeps contrast paints from flowing as much as they should.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:15 |
|
|
# ? Jun 6, 2024 07:12 |
|
Honestly when I use contrast I just paint it right on top of white ink zenithal over black primer and it turns out alright.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:19 |
|
chin up everything sucks posted:Be aware, contrast paints take some practice, and it takes some prep work to use on a model - you either need to use GW's contrast primers, or you need to put a coat of varnish over your primer before using the contrast paint. Otherwise you won't get the expected pigment flow that makes contrast paints work. This isn’t true at all. I don’t use gw primers or varnish before applying them, and I get solid results every time. Even when applying over a normal layer of primer, such as rustoleum.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:34 |
|
So long as the under color is light enough contrast paint will work fine. I basically just use them as fancy washes and they work fine over every brand of thing. So if you prime black, contrast paints just wont work. Don't make me waste paint with a test model to prove it. But if you prime anything that a husband at sherman williams would tell his wife "that's white I don't know how thats different than the other 9000 paints in this book" then you're golden.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:38 |
|
vallejo game color have a 16-paint starter set that’s pretty much perfect to get you going
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:42 |
|
Verisimilidude posted:I recommend gw contrast paints and either Vallejo, scale75 or gw normal paints to start. Contrast is great for getting a color onto a model fast, but normal paints give you a breadth of options that are solid for beginners. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E13K416HC3ABDGY2F7TV I was looking at this set, nothing crazy, seems to cover one of all the basics. I figured with the breadth of figures I got in the bones box I'd probably use a wide variety of colours. Bottom Liner posted:contrast paints also vary wildly across the line in the way the work and quality. some are fantastic, some are trash. Which ones are worth getting? Also should I get washes? Or am I better off just watering down paints I have? Also primers. I just picked up a cheap spray can of grey primer, figured it wouldn't matter that much. Should I be using something else? Reaper claim they don't need primer, is that true?
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:46 |
|
Verisimilidude posted:This isn’t true at all. I don’t use gw primers or varnish before applying them, and I get solid results every time. Even when applying over a normal layer of primer, such as rustoleum. You're both right IME. Contrast does work better over wraithbone contrast primer, but its still usable over non-contrast primers. Lord Banana posted:Which ones are worth getting? I've only tried <10 of them, so just look for reviews or samples of any colors that catch your eye before buying.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:49 |
|
Being in the UK you have access to Element Games which basically has every hobby thing under the sun you'd want (eg a Red Grass Games Wet Palette, Vallejo everything, all the weird one-off paints like Turbodork, Tamiya hobby tools, putty and glue, etc.) as well as Jackson's Art which sells fancy brushes for criminally low discounts. Raphael Kolinsky 8404 Size 1 for £10.40? It's ridiculous!
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 00:49 |
|
Lord Banana posted:https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E13K416HC3ABDGY2F7TV That set would probably be fine, Vallejo is solid. You’ll probably have a few paints you never use, but that’s part of the game. As for contrast, the list of bad colors is much smaller than the good ones. The only contrast I don’t like or use anymore is fyreslayer flesh, the rest are all great IMO and have varying uses (I’ll admit I haven’t used ultramarine blue though).
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 01:05 |
|
Lord Banana posted:https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E13K416HC3ABDGY2F7TV that set's pretty decent for a starter to paint everything, but throw out the metallic paints and get this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Acrylicos-...2OLM&srpt=PAINT or whatever from that line (vallejo metal color) ships to you and is less than 10 quid. trust me, as someone who paints a lot of true metallic metal that paint is the best. No hyperbole, the best. worth it. I don't even put it on my palette sometimes, I just open the cap and the little bit in the top is more than enough to paint an entire marine with, the coverage and flow is perfect and the opacity is
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 01:06 |
|
Lord Banana posted:Which ones are worth getting? There aren't any bad ones, but there are some that are of limited use. The contrast line also doesn't have a good purple. Generally: the browns and yellow-browns (the three skin tones, wyldwood, snakebite leather) are extremely useful, as are the shades (Apothecary White, Black Templar, Basc. Gray). Apothecary White needs a lot of shaking though, it settles out extremely quickly and won't perform well if it's not shaken enough. I also get so much use out of Skeleton Horde that I have gone through three bottles of it, Skeleton Horde is amazing for anything that needs a solid off-white color. Peasant clothing? Jaundiced skin tone? Dry sand? Actual bone? Skeleton Horde has you covered. The contrast blues, reds, greens, and yellows and oranges are all solid; but shyish purple is extremely dark and not useful for much. Magos Purple and Plaguebearer Flesh are the thinnest of the contrast paints, and I find them less useful than most of the others but when you need what they're specifically good for (Magos Purple makes a great countershade to a green or yellow lighting effect, Plaguebearer is a good way to lighten up other greens, and both make decent 'unhealthy' skin tones and mix well with the existing skin tones) they're amazing. Some of the less-pigmented contrast paints don't perform well if you don't shake the hell out of them, though. Apothecary White is one of the biggest offenders there but Plaguebearer and Magos Purple have the same problem and the more vibrant paints can also settle out over time. I use a vortex mixer to mix mine and it always takes 2-3 times longer to get Apothecary White back up to workable trim, it settles out in hours when most of the rest of the line take days or weeks. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Nov 24, 2021 |
# ? Nov 24, 2021 01:18 |
|
Apothecary white is probably the biggest posterboy for "get some hematite beads to put in each bottle" i've ever seen. But most white paints do that due to the size of the pigment particles. My liquitex titanium white ink separates out so badly that it looks like slide from a chem101 lecture on precipitates. Or it could be a good demo on emulsions. I may actually use that for a class. Luckily, vallejo and monument hobbies whites don't separate out that bad.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 01:26 |
|
I like Reaper's Pure White for the same reason. It's got good two-coat coverage and doesn't come pre-congealed into a lump of solid polymer the way GW's non-contrast whites always do.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 01:52 |
|
Also Contrast Medium! Contrast Medium gives you so much more control over the...well...contrast of saturation of your contrast paints. You can also use acrylic inks with contrast medium and make your own contrast paint. Wyldwood and Basilicanum Grey with some contrast medium also let you forgo buying Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade, and contrast is imo better for recess shading than washes because of the way the paint behaves. Probably as good as it gets with acrylic paints. Only thing better are oil paints. Dreylad fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Nov 24, 2021 |
# ? Nov 24, 2021 02:53 |
|
Spanish Manlove posted:that set's pretty decent for a starter to paint everything, but throw out the metallic paints and get this You're absolutely going to need something for generic "metal", and this one is perfect. You can drybrush it over black for weapons, mix in colors for power swords or enchanted weapons, anything at all and it'll look good.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 09:05 |
|
some of the videos in the op on wash painting are gone
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 13:11 |
|
also, i would appreciate a good video on making those washes as a first timer
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 13:30 |
|
Thanks for all the advise! I'm going to pick up that Vallejo set then look to get the metal and some contrasts later (not much budget this close to Christmas). lollontee posted:also, i would appreciate a good video on making those washes as a first timer Yeah, the op is great but a lot of links are broken, any recommendations for people to follow for tutorials would be great.
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 14:23 |
|
Had the day off yesterday, spent it working on the metal Sauron I've had sitting around for a year+ Still got more to go, but had to pose him up against that photo insert from WD 469
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 17:25 |
|
yea or nay on vallejo white spraycan primer? Not worried about price, just looking for a good non-fussy white
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 17:47 |
|
TheBigAristotle posted:Still got more to go [joke] I can't wait to see you start painting your metal sauron[/joke]
|
# ? Nov 24, 2021 18:28 |
|
My wife is starting to prepare running a campaign of Ultraviolet Grasslands and the Black City (link to the completed Kickstarter for visual reference), which is has an extremely Moebius-inspired, fluorescent colored aesthetic. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about mini lines that might suit this campaign. I'm can imagine that the color palette and technique will be more important for getting the vibe right, but I wouldn't finding a limited range of minis to consider painting up.
|
# ? Nov 25, 2021 02:23 |
|
Miles O'Brian posted:drat dude My order has been shipped! Fingers crossed!
|
# ? Nov 26, 2021 18:19 |
|
a mate who ordered his got it in 3 days.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2021 21:14 |
|
10mm skaven
|
# ? Nov 26, 2021 22:38 |
|
Nebalebadingdong posted:
Where do you get these? I have the urge to make a mini bloodbowl set and all of these 10mm models are perfect.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2021 23:03 |
|
Bottom Liner posted:Where do you get these? I have the urge to make a mini bloodbowl set and all of these 10mm models are perfect. these came from here: https://ankylo.gumroad.com/ i have heard rumbling of 10mm bloodbowl and i think it would work marvelously. i bet its a real thing sometime next year Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Nov 26, 2021 |
# ? Nov 26, 2021 23:10 |
|
Same model converted. Happy I got to reuse the shoulder and sword from the first model I ever bought as a 13 year old, a tiny pewter death company marine way back in the 90s.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 00:03 |
|
with a rebel yell she QQd posted:My order has been shipped! Fingers crossed! My Holga was delivered today.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 01:34 |
|
So any rad painting or printing or hobby sales on this weekend of hedonistic purchases?
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 02:14 |
|
About time I posted pics of my Imperial fists in here after a long long time lurking in this thread: I hate yellow so goddam much.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 02:56 |
|
Cpt Soban posted:About time I posted pics of my Imperial fists in here after a long long time lurking in this thread: Yellow can be a pain, but you really did well with it!
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 03:23 |
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:So any rad painting or printing or hobby sales on this weekend of hedonistic purchases? Pretty much every 3d printer is on sale this weekend, if you were on the fence now's the time to buy.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 05:24 |
|
The detail on that gun looks extremely impressive.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 08:17 |
|
TotalHell posted:Yellow can be a pain, but you really did well with it! Cheers! Lots of thin coats. Sadly GW no longer make the yellow spray which saved so much time. Maybe one day I'll get around to buying an airbrush for undercoating.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 09:08 |
|
If people are interested in further extremely tiny Warhams, Ankylo is running a KS for 6 mm Nurgle bois: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ankylominiatures/scifi-plague-warriors-6mm They have no right to be this cute and make me wish I was steady enough with a brush to paint them half decently.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 09:10 |
|
rest of the model is still being worked on - got more weathering to do But I'm really really stoked on how the lightning claws have come out
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 12:51 |
|
DressCodeBlue posted:If people are interested in further extremely tiny Warhams, Ankylo is running a KS for 6 mm Nurgle bois: god drat it anyhow I painted a goku And some tiny elves. 10mm is really fun.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 12:59 |
|
Those are looking mighty good. Browsing etsy and my mini factory and it's sad that nobody is making minis of the Gummi Bears. Tempted to pick up some Gargoyles prints to add to my pile of shame but I should really get through some more D&D minis for our campaign first.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 13:02 |
|
|
# ? Jun 6, 2024 07:12 |
|
Finally painting my goblin Blood Bowl team and decided to try a cel-shaded/comic style. I think it worked? I'm not in love with the metal but am fairly happy with the rest.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2021 23:44 |