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nexus6 posted:Cable ties are holding them in place and the only thing I have to cut them are kitchen scissors which I'm not keen to do. Yeah some nail scissors or penknife scissors are more appropriate. Also PSA: having your PC on carpet like that is a great recipe for shitloads of dust and fluff sucked into it. If you can't move it somewhere else, make sure to regularly open it and clean it out.
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Nov 26, 2021 11:36
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A better-looking 3060 Ti prebuilt than the last one I linked: https://www.amazon.com/Skytech-Shiv...VIDEO_CARD&th=1 (edit: sale over) 5600X/3060 Ti/16GB DDR4-3200, for $1380. It's in a very bleh case unfortunately (InWin 301), but the CPU is far superior, the memory is a bit faster, and the ssd storage is larger than the $1400 one I linked and then immediately criticized. This one is more cost-efficient, getting you better components for a bit less money, and is the kind of prebuilt that may be worth buying for some people looking for a midrange gaming PC (though it's still around $100 or $200 more than it'd cost in normal times). GamersNexus reviewed a different prebuilt from SkyTech, and they had no major complaints about the build quality. I'd want to do some something about the fan situation here though. This case has filtered bottom intake, and I think adding fans down there will be necessary to getting good thermals. Adding a CPU cooler would also be smart. Despite how awkward the case looks, I think it'd mostly run fine with those additions. edit: And those who just want a cheap gaming machine that will run modern games at 1080p just fine, there's this 2060 prebuilt for $875:https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC...RSONAL_COMPUTER This is actually a surprisingly decent deal, despite it having only 8GB of RAM. Tossing in a second 8GB stick is cheap and easy (and something ever buyer should do), and it costs a lot less than building a similarly specced PC yourself. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Nov 26, 2021 |
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Nov 26, 2021 11:45
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Think I fixed the PXE boot thing, I changed a secure boot setting to use Windows
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Nov 26, 2021 12:56
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I'll post this video again: Don’t worry about, Doc. Your w-o-t are 100% informed content. If it were a different or non-technical thread, I might tl;dr…but your posting is solid material, we’ll appreciated. This is real budget-effecting but necessary contraptions (wfh especially), and my system was a prebuilt using your info here and the GPU thread. It saved me enough (especially the after-market cooling I stole 90mm fans from old cases in the attic to get) money and headaches that even when I opened my case seven months later for the RAM upgrade there was no dust and it runs cool enough to not impact room heat a bit. Needed advice is never too much.
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Nov 26, 2021 18:30
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Number_6 posted:I edited my previous post; I found that my thermal and performance issues seem to be mostly resolved (well, good enough anyway) by changing from Lenovo's customized power plan, which was installed as default, to the standard Windows Balanced Power Plan. With that simple change, I picked up 5-20% in CPU benchmarks. Apparently the Windows Balanced plan is way better optimized for my 5700G than whatever poo poo Lenovo was doing in their power plan. You’re literally gimping performance, and therefore reducing heat load, therefore not hitting thermal throttle as frequently. It’s a thermal issue. Also, wipe that sucker and do a clean install. The Lenovo bloatware (even if you can’t see it, it’s there) is also dragging you down. nexus6 posted:Think I fixed the PXE boot thing, I changed a secure boot setting to use Windows This is the correct fix. nexus6 posted:Cable ties are holding them in place and the only thing I have to cut them are kitchen scissors which I'm not keen to do. You’re not gonna snip through braided cable when cutting a zip tie. If you’re really worried, shove the tip of a knife in there and rip outward (away from your face). That being said having them lay in the 3.5” bays is fine. If you want it to look nicer you can always get a bracket that lets it sit nicely.
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Nov 26, 2021 18:42
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nexus6 posted:I've only owned it 2 hours lol That’s plenty of time to download “Control” and configure it to ultra and play for an hour. WTF is wrong with you people? 
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Nov 26, 2021 18:47
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Rinkles posted:The resident cable management expert has spoken. I trust his advice is thermally correct, too. His Username is “CoolCab,” which I assume is short for “Cool-running Cabinet” in a PC thread after all… 
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Nov 26, 2021 18:56
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:This is the correct fix. Excellent Pilfered Pallbearers posted:That being said having them lay in the 3.5” bays is fine. If you want it to look nicer you can always get a bracket that lets it sit nicely. Yeah, I really don't care too much. Like I said - they were dangling before and now they have a nice place to sit. It's not like I show this off to people when they visit like it's a trophy.
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Nov 26, 2021 21:56
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nexus6 posted:Yeah, I really don't care too much. Like I said - they were dangling before and now they have a nice place to sit. It's not like I show this off to people when they visit like it's a trophy. 
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Nov 26, 2021 22:04
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Learn from my pain trip report 2 - only install new copies of Windows OS on newish hardware. Even if you're re-using an old license key, creating a new install USB with the current version might save you more time than it takes in the long run. I have a copy of Windows 10 from ~5 years ago that I used to install Windows on my just built PC. Shortly after the install completed without apparent incident, the PC started shutting down randomly after 10 minutes of operation at most. I'll save you the laundry list of fixes I tried and skip straight to the one that finally worked. Updating windows and then running windows driver updates. For whatever reason, windows kept failing to update itself through the automated update process, but fortunately, windows allows you to download an updater exe that will bypass the incremental update process and install the latest version directly. I downloaded that and ran it (took long enough even installing to an M.2 NVMe SSD that it froze three times and had to be reset before finally succeeding). Once the OS was up to date, everything else went smoothly. Even the drivers for the B550 motherboard and onboard wifi chip that the install disk that came with the motherboard had failed to install previously went through without a hitch. That was a really weird bug. I've never had problems from installing old OS versions before. I didn't realize that was even a possible failure mode.
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Nov 27, 2021 05:33
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I haven't had that particular issue happen to me, but if nothing else, people should make sure they have the latest version just to save time. I also installed from a 5-year-old USB drive earlier this year, and the update process took way longer than it would've taken to just download and install the latest version right away.
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Nov 27, 2021 05:38
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While we're talking about Win10 installation troubleshooting, if you install Win10 Home without a product key, then try to activate it with a Win10 Pro product key, it's going to "upgrade" itself and then tell you the product key doesn't work. Just restart manually and it'll finish it off for you. Or so I learned just now.
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Nov 27, 2021 06:22
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I installed Windows on a new drive for my sister a week or two ago, and had zero issues. After I connected to wifi, windows found and installed all the necessary drivers itelf. It was brisk and pleasant. My current build, with the Z590 Aorus Elite AX, has been a bit of a nightmare. First there was no display output. And I'm not really sure why it eventually started working. I restarted it a few times with manual shutdowns to no avail, but for some reason I got an ouput after using the reset. The windows install went okay, but I couldn't connect to the internet. Wifi just wasn't working. Luckily I had a powerline ethernet adapter, so I could get some of the drivers, but the wifi driver didn't help. I installed Intel's Support Assistant, and that found the relevant driver, but after installing nothing would change, and the Assistant would again recommend that the same driver should be installed. In the Device Manager I'm told "This device cannot start. (code 10)", which I think is a generic error when a device doesn't work. I tried using Gigabytes software to find drivers, but again didn't help. The hardware part of the build was also a bit more challenging than I was expecting. Just so many wires. I was afraid I was going to bend the front panel power/reset header (there has to be a better way of making those connectors). And I think I need to get a splitter for my fans, if I want to add any, because there are only 3 case fan headers on the motherboard.
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Nov 27, 2021 07:16
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Any thoughts on these two Z690 (intel Alder Lake) motherboards? ASUS TUF Gaming Z690-Plus WiFi D4: https://www.newegg.com/asus-tuf-gaming-z690-plus-wifi-d4/p/N82E16813119506 MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI DDR4: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144488 I've had good experiences with Asus parts in the past, but the MSI one is 60 bucks cheaper and I know it's a reasonably well-regarded brand. As far as I can tell the spec lists look basically the same except the MSI one has a couple more SATA ports and some more USB connectivity. It looks like the MSI one is slightly better and a good deal cheaper but the Asus one seems to be a lot more popular with a higher best-seller rank on Newegg so I dunno.
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Nov 27, 2021 07:57
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The biggest advantage the TUF has over the MSI Pro is, probably, its superior audio codec (ALC1200 as opposed to the ALC897 in the MSI Pro). Now, I have literally no idea how much of a difference it makes. I've seen people online saying it makes a huge difference, and I bet plenty of goons will say it makes no difference. Either way, MSI uses a more budget-tier sound chip while Asus uses a more premium sound chip. I don't know if that justifies the price difference, but basically everything else appears to be the same, quality-wise. There are no other hidden gotchas or anything in these boards. The TUF has two fewer SATA ports so it can have an extra expansion port. Seems rather pointless to me, but whatever. The lack of USB is just for product segmentation, to give a reason to buy their $400+ boards instead I guess. There's literally no other reason to cut those ports. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Nov 27, 2021 |
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Nov 27, 2021 08:34
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Any ideas? I've been banging my head against this for hours now. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers multiple times now, restarting after each one. Through Windows, Intel and Gigabyte.
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Nov 27, 2021 08:43
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Rinkles posted:Any ideas? I've been banging my head against this for hours now. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers multiple times now, restarting after each one. Through Windows, Intel and Gigabyte. Is it showing up in Device Manager?
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Nov 27, 2021 08:52
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Is it showing up in Device Manager? Yeah, but with a warning sign, because it's not working.
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Nov 27, 2021 08:55
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Rinkles posted:Any ideas? I've been banging my head against this for hours now. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers multiple times now, restarting after each one. Through Windows, Intel and Gigabyte. Did you update the motherboard BIOS (with the device drivers uninstalled)? Are you sure you're fully restarting the machine, and not doing the hibernate thing that Windows likes to do by default when you hit "shut down?" When you're uninstalling the wifi device drivers are you uninstalling the intel bluetooth drivers too, since I think intel likes to bundle them? Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The biggest advantage the TUF has over the MSI Pro is, probably, its superior audio codec (ALC1200 as opposed to the ALC897 in the MSI Pro). Now, I have literally no idea how much of a difference it makes. I've seen people online saying it makes a huge difference, and I bet plenty of goons will say it makes no difference. Either way, MSI uses a more budget-tier sound chip while Asus uses a more premium sound chip. I don't know if that justifies the price difference, but basically everything else appears to be the same, quality-wise. There are no other hidden gotchas or anything in these boards. Thanks. I'll look into seeing if that sound chip affects anything. The Asus board being gimped to upsell the more expensive boards makes sense, the "ROG" trim boards seem stupendously expensive yet very popular.
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Nov 27, 2021 09:15
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Shear Modulus posted:Did you update the motherboard BIOS (with the device drivers uninstalled)? Are you sure you're fully restarting the machine, and not doing the hibernate thing that Windows likes to do by default when you hit "shut down?" When you're uninstalling the wifi device drivers are you uninstalling the intel bluetooth drivers too, since I think intel likes to bundle them? Yeah proper resets. I did update the BIOS, but not with the drivers uninstalled. Bluetooth is bundled with wifi, but as far as I can tell it's not showing up in the device manager, at least not as a separate device.
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Nov 27, 2021 09:20
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Rinkles posted:Yeah proper resets. I did update the BIOS, but not with the drivers uninstalled. Bluetooth is bundled with wifi, but as far as I can tell it's not showing up in the device manager, at least not as a separate device. If you haven't done it yet I'd try uninstalling the drivers, then rebooting, and then try installing or reinstalling anything that looks relevant that Gigabyte provides. Intel docs always say that if the OEM provides drivers you should use those instead of the generic intel ones.
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Nov 27, 2021 09:29
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I started building this at 8pm, figuring I'd be able to turn in by midnight: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $299.99) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler (Purchased For $35.99) Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 5.5 g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $19.72) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $109.99) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $113.37) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card (Purchased For $892.68) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $199.99) Power Supply: Fractal Design Ion+ 2 860 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $204.99) Monitor: LG 32QK500-C 32.0" 2560x1440 75 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $1876.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-27 03:54 EST-0500 Nine hours later, a minor performance uplift vs my ~gaming Mac~:  After turning on auto-OC for the CPU and GPU, and pushing memory/FLCK to 1933mhz: 
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Nov 27, 2021 10:06
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Shear Modulus posted:If you haven't done it yet I'd try uninstalling the drivers, then rebooting, and then try installing or reinstalling anything that looks relevant that Gigabyte provides. Intel docs always say that if the OEM provides drivers you should use those instead of the generic intel ones. Thanks, but no dice. I noticed that the driver version isn't actually changing after doing an update. It's stuck at 21.10.2.2 when the version Intel's giving me is 22.90.0.5
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Nov 27, 2021 11:21
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Every time I uninstall the driver, after a reboot windows will reinstall it. I tried installing older versions of the driver but Windows won't let me, because it likes the current one better. And bluetooth isn't showing up at all. So as to not turn this into a tech support thread entirely, I gotta say even though Rocket Lake is bemoaned, I'm still impressed by the jump in CPU speed from my previous processor (an i5 6400; as a reminder this pc has a 11600K). I was not expecting much of a difference outside games. A lot of things are snappier, and installs are quicker. It's not just because it's a clean install of Windows, because I recently did a fresh install in my old pc too. This one has a faster SSD, though (nvme 3 v SATA, not sure how big a difference that makes). Also, yes the A500 is loving loud. It's like there's a miniature blizzard inside the case every time there's a CPU spike. It's good at cooling though. Temperatures drop immediately. When (if?) I figure out this wifi issue, I'm gonna have look at doing a custom fan curve. At idle (~30C-35C) it's fairly silent.
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Nov 27, 2021 12:46
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Oh hey, I had that same error with the same wifi chip on the Microsoft Surface I have for work. I too did a dance of uninstall/reboot/reinstall/update, none of which worked (sometimes I got an error 54 instead of an error 10). Eventually it just started working again. A full shutdown and reboot had it start up with error 10 "cannot start" again, after which I disabled it, waited 15 seconds or so, enabled it, and it started up successfully. I fully expect it to be a recurring pain in the rear end from now on.
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Nov 27, 2021 14:11
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Rinkles posted:Every time I uninstall the driver, after a reboot windows will reinstall it. I tried installing older versions of the driver but Windows won't let me, because it likes the current one better. And bluetooth isn't showing up at all. If you disconnect from the internet, uninstall, and reboot when still disconnected it shouldn’t have any place to source the new driver from.
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Nov 27, 2021 15:06
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Rinkles posted:Every time I uninstall the driver, after a reboot windows will reinstall it. I tried installing older versions of the driver but Windows won't let me, because it likes the current one better. And bluetooth isn't showing up at all. You can turn the auto-updater off. Here's one guide.
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Nov 27, 2021 15:27
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Hello, Looking to build a new PC for the bf to do interior deisign/3d visualization work. I am familiar with building PCs for gaming but this is my first time looking at this kind of build. What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? interior deisign/3d visualization What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. He would like to keep it under $1800 including monitor but open to accepting harsh realities  If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? Main software is CET. Requirements: https://support.configura.com/hc/en-us/articles/360060905854-Hardware-Specifications. He would like to build for the "high-end" specs but given video card prices and his budget we are considering a video card from the "recommended" section for now. Tentative build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Canada Computers) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($248.50 @ Vuugo) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($171.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($103.99 @ Amazon Canada) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 G5 4 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($420.99 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada) Total: $1495.44 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-27 10:25 EST-0500 Does this make sense for this type of workload? Especially looking for advice on the motherboard and video card. Would like to keep on-board wifi (or a discrete wi-fi card if that is better). Thank you!
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Nov 27, 2021 16:31
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Even if driver updates for the device were specifically disabled, so it stopped showing up in Device Manager as Intel Wi-fi after uninstalling, I couldn't roll back the drivers because I would always be told that a new driver was already installed (despite me uninstalling the device+cold rebooting). I decided to see if a Windows reinstall would help (without ethernet this time). It didn't. It did finally allow me to install a different version of the driver, but just as before wifi wouldn't start. idk, maybe the module's busted. roomforthetuna posted:Oh hey, I had that same error with the same wifi chip on the Microsoft Surface I have for work. I too did a dance of uninstall/reboot/reinstall/update, none of which worked (sometimes I got an error 54 instead of an error 10). Eventually it just started working again. A full shutdown and reboot had it start up with error 10 "cannot start" again, after which I disabled it, waited 15 seconds or so, enabled it, and it started up successfully. I've seen similar solutions elsewhere, but it didn't help me. And I never got an error 54. From what I understand, error code 10 can represent a wide swath of issues, and just generally means something's not working.
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Nov 27, 2021 17:11
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Infyrion posted:Does this make sense for this type of workload? Especially looking for advice on the motherboard and video card. Would like to keep on-board wifi (or a discrete wi-fi card if that is better). Thank you! This is the worst possible time to be trying to build a machine for workloads that benefit from high VRAM GPUs. I'd look at prebuilts with a 3060 (12gb GDDR6 VRAM) or 3060ti (8gb GDDR6X VRAM) in, idk what availability is like in Canada but there's frequently ones linked here in the $1400-1500 USD range which Google tells me is around $1800 CAD. Edit: oh that was your budget including monitor. Up your budget I'd say, if its for professional purposes you don't want to scrimp now and if the software benefits from high VRAM GPUs that's what you should be getting. If you found a cheaper prebuilt with a 3060 in and didn't want a particularly fancy monitor you might be able to scrape in around budget. Something like this? Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Nov 27, 2021 |
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Nov 27, 2021 17:21
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Rinkles posted:Even if driver updates for the device were specifically disabled, so it stopped showing up in Device Manager as Intel Wi-fi after uninstalling, I couldn't roll back the drivers because I would always be told that a new driver was already installed (despite me uninstalling the device+cold rebooting). Probably a bad WiFi module is my guess. Exchange now while you’re in return window, even if it might not be. Gigabyte RMA is not fun.
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Nov 27, 2021 17:42
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Thrilled to read about this while I'm in the middle of building a system based on the Z690 version of that board. At least the Corsair 4000D has been really nice to work inside. This is my first time working with a shrouded PSU, and you could be all kinds of sloppy if you wanted to. Now I'm going back to de-kinking and ensuring my fan cables are perfectly flat on the side where you can't see them.
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Nov 27, 2021 18:19
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What country are you in? The good ol USA What are you using the system for? Video games and shitposting What's your budget? For the hardware, not including mouse/keyboard/monitor, somewhere in the 1500-ish range is fine. If it got a couple hundred over that, that's fine too. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I'd like things on the higher end, but I don't have to have the absolute latest and greatest. If it runs well at 1080/60 I'm good but I'd like to get up to 1440/144 once I grab a new monitor at some point in the future. I do not care if new releases are not sitting at Ultra settings. So I was poking around on PC part picker and slowly succumbing to the inevitability of spending almost my entire original budget idea on the god drat GPU, so, gently caress it. How close enough is this to the "great intel gaming build" they've got offered? https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/w4V323/great-intel-gaming-build Any adjustments I should be thinking about here? I'd like to slot in a 3070 or a 3080 *at some point* in the future, assuming the prices come down to a reasonable level some day (hah). Would I be better off grabbing a 3060ti? I'm always paranoid about grabbing an unreliable power supply, too. It's been a while since I put my own build together, so it's not like I can't, but the covid isolation is real and my enthusiasm isn't what it used to be for this stuff so by all means, yell recommendations at me, goons.
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Nov 27, 2021 20:33
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S.J. posted:What country are you in? The good ol USA Yo dude if you don’t have an absolutely immediate need, do not buy a 3060 for $1000. Seriously. My advice is to enter Newegg shuffle/check best buy/stock discords/microcenter if you’re near one daily to try and get a GPU. Once you have a GPU in hand then build out the rest of the system.
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Nov 27, 2021 21:05
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I'm curious about telling the difference between another couple of motherboards. MSI MAG Z690 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4 LGA 1700 ATX Intel Motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144487 MSI MPG Z690 EDGE WIFI DDR4 LGA 1700 ATX Intel Motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144486 The second one is 20 bucks more expensive but the only difference I can see in the specs are that a couple ports are nerfed on the first (1 of 2 PCIe x4 ports becomes a PCIe x1 port and 2 of 5 USB 3.2 gen 2 ports become USB 3.2 gen 1). There's also more Gamer LEDs on the second including a light-up dragon. Is the extra port bandwidth going to cost 20 dollars, or are they mostly charging for the LEDs?
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Nov 27, 2021 21:46
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Yo dude if you don’t have an absolutely immediate need, do not buy a 3060 for $1000. If you don't mind, what kind of price point is reasonable for something like that? I've been out of the loop for a while.
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Nov 27, 2021 21:47
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S.J. posted:If you don't mind, what kind of price point is reasonable for something like that? I've been out of the loop for a while. The MSRPs for 3060s is supposed to be like $350 to $450.
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Nov 27, 2021 21:51
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Man, finding older hardware is a pain in the rear end. I’m building a midrange gaming setup for a friend off of that i5 7400 I already had and I spent like 2 hours last night trying to find a compatible mAtx or ITX motherboard that wasn’t like $150 or that would take 3 months to get here from China.
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Nov 27, 2021 21:53
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S.J. posted:If you don't mind, what kind of price point is reasonable for something like that? I've been out of the loop for a while. It's a $330 MSRP card. People sell them on ebay for $750 - $800. When you're lucky enough to find them at retail, they're more like $400 - $500 . It seems like the 3060 is one of the cards you're more likely to find if you live near a micro center and can stop by every now and then shortly after opening to see if they have stock. I think you should aim for a 3060 Ti if at all possible. It was the best value at MSRP (25% more performance), and this is even more true at inflated prices as long as it's just $100 more. Even if you eventually succumb to paying a scalper (which I think you'd regret), the street price for the 3060 Ti is "only" about $100 more than the 3060. I'm actually surprised by how much the 3060 goes for on ebay. It's like 250% higher than its msrp compared to everything else being around 200% higher. It must be a good miner (due to its 12GB of VRAM?) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Nov 27, 2021 |
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Nov 27, 2021 22:01
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S.J. posted:If you don't mind, what kind of price point is reasonable for something like that? I've been out of the loop for a while. Even though most GPUs are selling for double MSRP lately, there was a Dell with a 3060 in it on Black Friday for $999, so just getting the card for that much is kind of a rip off. I don't think they have that available anymore but currently there's an XPS with an i7-11700 and a 3060 for 1350 right now, you could keep the card and sell the rest of the system for 500-600+ as an office PC. https://www.techbargains.com/deals/dell-xps-desktop-deals The only real caveat is that the warranty on the parts is going to be through Dell, so you'll get one year by default and they sell protection plans for more. Not great if you part it out and that's not a long warranty for a GPU but things are insane right now. I suspect that Dell is looking to move these 11th gen systems out since 12th gen is coming soon, maybe.
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Nov 27, 2021 22:04
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