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Just replace the wheel imo, unless you're trying to do a period restoration or something. Old QR wheels are a dime a dozen.
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Nov 16, 2021 02:38
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That's not a good sound: https://i.imgur.com/n9I2hrI.mp4 It deserves a cleaning as well but this definitely sounds...internal.
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Nov 17, 2021 09:21
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Hows it sound without the chain on the rings?
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Nov 17, 2021 12:09
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I didn't try taking it off, but shifting between large and small cog had no effect on the sound when I was pedaling. It's in the same part of the stroke going both forward and backwards as well.
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Nov 17, 2021 13:38
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I mean it’s probably the BB bearings but it’s a 5 second job to put the chain on the BB shell and spin the cranks to see if you’re still hearing it
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Nov 17, 2021 18:37
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I was working on a Pashley with a B&M Lumotec light, which uses this bulb: https://www.traditionalcycleshop.co.uk/pashley-accessories/pashley-hub-dynamo-lamp-bulb Is there an compatible option that I could get on US ebay, or US shipping in general? I didn't turn anything up searching for Lumotec and 2.4W.
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Nov 18, 2021 08:40
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That looks like a very standard flashlight bulb? Maybe one of those maglite LED replacement bulbs would work? Most are 3W IIRC.
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Nov 18, 2021 09:39
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I have no idea if the bulb is specially dimensioned or anything, but it certainly looks like the D cell flashlight bulbs and LEDs I'm seeing. Do the LEDs have internal capacitors or regulators to deal with uneven voltage?
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Nov 18, 2021 09:50
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kimbo305 posted:I have no idea if the bulb is specially dimensioned or anything, but it certainly looks like the D cell flashlight bulbs and LEDs I'm seeing. p13.5s is the name of the bulb type I think. I'm assuming the ones rated for a voltage range are regulated.
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Nov 18, 2021 14:55
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kimbo305 posted:I was working on a Pashley with a B&M Lumotec light, which uses this bulb: Looks like a type hs3 halogen bulb. No idea where to buy one in US. Led replacement is probably a good idea but don't flashlights have DC instead of AC or the other way around?
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Nov 18, 2021 18:44
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Havana Affair posted:Looks like a type hs3 halogen bulb. No idea where to buy one in US. Led replacement is probably a good idea but don't flashlights have DC instead of AC or the other way around? Halogen or just normal incandescent? Batteries are certainly DC, and I thought dynamos were, too?
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Nov 18, 2021 18:49
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kimbo305 posted:Halogen or just normal incandescent? evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Nov 18, 2021 |
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Nov 18, 2021 19:04
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It's a misnomer. They are alternators, not dynamos. That said, a plain old lightbulb doesn't care if it is getting AC or DC current. Any 6v 2.4w bulb that fits should work as a replacement.
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Nov 18, 2021 19:45
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I did some testing with putting different loads on hub son and SP hub generators. No matter the voltage drop they would all saturate at max current around ~500mA. With a variable load you could squeeze more power out with higher speeds, but you don't need to worry about overloading any basic resistive load as long as it is designed to handle ~500mA.
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Nov 18, 2021 19:52
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kimbo305 posted:Halogen or just normal incandescent?
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Nov 18, 2021 20:01
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kimbo305 posted:Halogen or just normal incandescent? Hs3 is halogen and so's the bulb you linked. Don't know if you can put in something other than halogen. I checked and bike dynamo produces AC and leds take DC so that's not gonna work straight away.
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Nov 18, 2021 20:10
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Hello, I recently got a bike new in a box, it came with tektro hydraulic brakes. The rear brake is exactly how I would expect based on motorbikes and hydraulic braked bicycles I've ridden, basically instant response. The front has a persistent 1-1.5mm of pad clearance on the inboard pad that I can't seem to get rid of. I've played around with centering the caliper dozens of times (it's mounted on an adapter with cone washers under the bolts), I've found that even if I can get it so the clearance is an even .5 mm on either side, after riding up and down the driveway and using the brakes a couple of times, it always returns to the usual situation of a big gap just on the inboard side. I don't think it's an issue of pad alignment because I can pull the lever, release and watch the piston move right back until no part of the pad is touching and keep going until that big gap forms. Is this a bleeding issue or is it just meant to be that way for safety? I don't normally get hung up on stuff like this, but it makes for a really vague and unpredictable initial bite, especially compared to the rear, it really saps confidence on loose surfaces.
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Nov 18, 2021 20:14
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CopperHound posted:Halogen is just a type of gas to put in normal incandescent bulb. Nothing special on the electrical side. TIL. I thought it was air in normal bulbs and only the super hot "halogen bulbs" were using halogen.
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Nov 18, 2021 21:18
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kimbo305 posted:TIL. I thought it was air in normal bulbs and only the super hot "halogen bulbs" were using halogen.  Normal incandescent bulbs are either vacuum, or some inert gas.
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Nov 18, 2021 22:04
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Well My old bar tape was disintegrating, I nearly got hit by a car and I had rope It fits the aesthetic  
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Nov 19, 2021 09:16
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kimbo305 posted:TIL. I thought it was air in normal bulbs and only the super hot "halogen bulbs" were using halogen. 
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Nov 19, 2021 10:22
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Jestery posted:Well I support this.
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Nov 20, 2021 05:29
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Fwiw I visited my local bike co-op and got a carrier , mudguards and new rims for cheap. This is frustratingly similar to my cruiser Bike. But was getting continually frustrated by lack of onboard storage Got some advice on using hemp for my bars and I will action that in the future, I've read natural fibres will stretch when wet, and then tighten as they dry. So wrapping with the cordage wet makes sense 
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Nov 21, 2021 11:27
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If you use a whip tie, you won't need any tape over the ends either. https://blog.walnutstudiolo.com/2020/08/13/complete-leather-bar-wraps-with-natural-twine-jute-or-waxed-thread-for-a-vintage-finished-look/
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Nov 21, 2021 14:44
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Actioned! I used a French whip on the main wrap, and a standard whip to secure  Next project, a plywood base for my rear carrier, I really like the luggage clip , so I'm trying to preserve its function
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Nov 24, 2021 11:01
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What’s the current thinking on what to do with the factory lube on a Shimano (Ultegra 10 speed) chain? Last advice I read was wipe it down well and use it for a bit, then clean / lube as usual. I’m going to use a wet lube eventually as this is my winter / commuter bike.
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Nov 24, 2021 12:42
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45 years old, 3 owners, approx 20,000 miles, it's back from the dead:  White bar tape I had sitting around, that's a downhill/dirt jump seat. It now has a 6 speed cassette because that's all I could find but it all works.
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Nov 28, 2021 02:13
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That looks in surprisingly good condition for its age. Is it really comfortable to ride with the saddle at that angle?
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Nov 28, 2021 02:18
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I have buttitis.
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Nov 28, 2021 02:19
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Salt Fish posted:I have buttitis. Mods?
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Nov 28, 2021 02:56
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wooger posted:What’s the current thinking on what to do with the factory lube on a Shimano (Ultegra 10 speed) chain? Strip the chain of the factory gunk if you want your chain to last. Sticky factory “protectant” attracts grit and fine (but hard) contaminants. If using a wet lube, just use Silca Synergetic or Synerg-E.
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Nov 28, 2021 04:16
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iospace posted:Mods? The motion passes
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Nov 28, 2021 16:12
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You will never realize how disgusting your 'clean' chain really is until you get ultrasonic cleaner.
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Dec 4, 2021 00:34
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Does it count if I put my chain in a tuperware container and shake it while yelling ULT-T-T-T-TRA S-O-O-O-O-O-O-N-IC!!!!!
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Dec 4, 2021 00:37
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Salt Fish posted:Does it count if I put my chain in a tuperware container and shake it while yelling ULT-T-T-T-TRA S-O-O-O-O-O-O-N-IC!!!!! only if you shake it really really fast
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Dec 4, 2021 18:44
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Two questions for you guys: 1) I ordered brake calipers off the internet and they're really nice, but instead of being silver like they looked on the website, they're actually quite a bit darker shade of shiny metallic grey. I went back and it's in the name, sort of, so my fault. Rather than returning them, I was thinking of just disassembling as much as possible and painting/spray painting the colored bits. Any advice? 2) My chain seemed to slip a bit when I'm braking really hard with the peddles on my fixed gear that I just put together, enough so that the first time that the chain actually popped off. The shop fitted the chain, but I put it back on too loose. I redid the rear wheel position as tight as possible against the chain and haven't had this problem again. I pulled on the wheel with one hand, bracing the bike with my foot and then gave the bolt a crank with the wrench in the free hand to tighten, which seemed to work. Is there an easier way to do this?
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Dec 14, 2021 17:34
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1) what brakes exactly? Should be fine. Keep paint away from areas that move. Reassembling might be difficult, and there might be things under spring tension. 2) I like to use the handle of hammer, pedal wrench, etc. Stick it in between the tire and seatstay bridge then use it as a lever to push the wheel back.
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Dec 14, 2021 17:44
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Please don't paint your brake calipers. If you want them to be silver, you need to remove the current paint and polish the bare metal.
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Dec 14, 2021 17:52
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Mauser posted:Two questions for you guys: 1) Polish, don't paint. 2) The correct way to tension a chain is to alternate adjusting the nuts on either side of the wheel. This gives you the most control over both centering and final chain tension. Start with a finger between the seat tube and tire, torque down the DS nut, leaving NDS loose. Check chain tension. If too tight, push the front of the wheel (near the bb) towards the DS chainstay, the torque down the NDS nut. If too loose, push towards the NDS stay. How far to push it is based on how much you want to adjust the tension by. Loosen the DS nut, and in a properly aligned and stiff frame, the wheel will center itself and adjust tension the way you wanted. Re-torque the DS nut, re-check tension, and continue fine-tuning. In terms of deciding how tight is tight enough: you want it loose enough that there is no preload on the chain links (too tight will wear out your chain, bb, and hub bearings, as well as costing you a shocking amount of watts). Total deflection of about a centimeter is enough (although to be clear I judge it by feel, not measurement). Having your chain come off while applying backpressure implies not only an issue with the chain being too loose, but also a chainline alignment issue. Worth checking that. bicievino fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 18:25
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The way I learned is to use a pedal wrench as a lever between the seat stay bridge and the tire. You just wedge it in there and push on the wrench while you tighten the bolts with the other hand.
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Dec 14, 2021 18:59
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