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KakerMix posted:Also your VIN is just out and visible on the dashboard of your car to anyone that wants to take a look. A VIN is not like a social security number for your car or anything. lmao yeah I was legit like "am I giving out my SSN here?" I mean random people who can see it aren't going to know my name and address, but it's hard not to be cagey about giving out too much personal data in this day and age... this is very much my first time buying a part online and going to be my first car project job.
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Nov 26, 2021 16:20
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A PI or a cop can find tons of info from your license plate - far more than what your VIN would ever reveal, but you'd need to have police or a private investigator trying to find you for someone to start digging into your license plate info (assuming you're in the US anyway - in some countries it can reveal a lot more easily, but it'd be publicly accessible data). Your VIN is only going to give them basic info about your vehicle, but as has been said, it does give a parts counter important info such as trim level, engine, etc. On some cars it doesn't matter at all, but a dealer parts counter is going to default to needing the VIN for just about everything since so many OEM parts do depend on trim level or other options. As an example, I had to give my VIN just to get a couple of nuts and bolts from the local Subaru dealer, despite even having the part numbers. They wanted to make sure they were the right parts (and on one, I had the wrong part number; they got the correct bolt based on the VIN). Texas is a notoriously private and right leaning state, but if I have your VIN, and your car has been registered in TX, I can get your license plate by looking up the vehicle inspection report (public info - the report has the license plate on it). That's how I was able to eventually find a police report about my car being in a wreck, but I was only able to get that info because (a) it's a former police vehicle and (b) I managed to talk to the right person at a police department in the county it was used in. And the report was heavily redacted, basically just said <x constable> was involved in a collision in vehicle <y> on <date/time>. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Nov 26, 2021 |
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Nov 26, 2021 16:37
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Stupid question time: I ordered a set of snow tires mounted on wheels with tpms sensors installed from tire rack. Now that I’ve mounted them on a 2021 Forester, I see in the manual that there are no instructions for relearning the tpms sensors, and I should to go to the dealership. Is this true? I looked through the menus in the car computer but didn’t see anything there.
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Nov 26, 2021 23:46
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MrKatharsis posted:Stupid question time: I ordered a set of snow tires mounted on wheels with tpms sensors installed from tire rack. Now that I’ve mounted them on a 2021 Forester, I see in the manual that there are no instructions for relearning the tpms sensors, and I should to go to the dealership. If it's anything like the earlier Suby TPMS sensors you have a couple of choices. You can get someone with the right tool to clone the ID's of your summer tires to the snow set (recommended) or do a relearn procedure with a tool every time you swap wheels.
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Nov 27, 2021 00:58
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With my 2020 Impreza there is no incar procedure to learn the new sensors, I have to go to the shop. It's asinine. It takes about 1 minute for them to do though, and discount tire does it for free for me, but maybe cause I'm a customer.
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Nov 27, 2021 01:04
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Say a guy pulled the intake manifold, taped up all the ports, connected a hose to one of the pcv barbs and blew into it as hard as possible. Would human lungs provide enough pressure to find a hidden crack that was causing a vacuum leak? My ears popped and I couldn’t hear or feel even the tiniest bit of air escaping anywhere.
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Nov 27, 2021 01:06
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Charles posted:With my 2020 Impreza there is no incar procedure to learn the new sensors, I have to go to the shop. It's asinine. It takes about 1 minute for them to do though, and discount tire does it for free for me, but maybe cause I'm a customer. Seriously, just get someone to clone the IDs from each summer wheel to each winter wheel. Worst case this means replaceing at least one set of TPMS sensors and then you're done forever. I recently had to dive into this rabbit hole and ended up with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0895R2YMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And while it can do the relearn (tell the car what IDs are on it) it can't actually PROGRAM any other brand's TPMS sensors, which seems to be very typical. What you want to do it get the right tools and TPMSes to program them all the same so you never need to do the re-learn when you swap wheels. I did a re-learn with this tool when I put the winters on my daughter's suby, but since the tire shop I used put in the sensors on the summers I'm gonna give them the IDs from the now-in-the ECU snows to program on the TPMSes they put in the summer wheels.....because they are not a brand I can program. Fun fact: most TPMSes can only be programmed 5 or fewer times. E: loving hell this post made me think "wait, did they actually cloen them? Winters:  Summers:  So the lingering TPMS light when I swapped them was something else. Fantastic. But doing a re-learned made it work. In short, TPMSes suck. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Nov 27, 2021 |
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Nov 27, 2021 01:13
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I didn't spot any of the reprogrammable modules for 433 mhz when I got mine
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Nov 27, 2021 07:46
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Charles posted:I didn't spot any of the reprogrammable modules for 433 mhz when I got mine There are Autel ones that are combo 315/433s and you just program them for whichever band you need. Those are pretty much the only ones I see available.
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Nov 27, 2021 17:05
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My dads 2012 TSX sportwagen was in a fender bender a couple months ago (last time we let my mom lend the fleet to her friends), and I’ve noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and chassis around 35 mph and above. It’s mild, but noticeable. The steering wheel also feels slightly heavier when turning left compared to right, but that’s a little tough to verify. I jacked it up and didn’t see anything that was obviously broken. It definitely needs a brake job—they’re pretty squishy, long travel, and the car shudders a little bit when braking from a decent speed. These old brakes wouldn’t cause the highway-speed vibration when not braking, correct? Should I feel any resistance or hear anything when spinning a tire while the car is jacked up? Conti DWS tires are pretty new and don’t show much wear. I also noticed that the driver side front and rear wheel don’t have any sticky alignment weights on them, that normal for this car? I know that trying to make a post-crash car good as new is a rabbit hole for fools, but it’s a rev-happy wagon and too cool to die
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Nov 27, 2021 22:29
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Body damage only? What exactly happened? And I'd start with getting the wheels balanced before I did anything else.
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Nov 27, 2021 22:45
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Motronic posted:Body damage only? What exactly happened? The driver rear ended someone, so we had some quarter panels replaced and other cosmetic bodywork
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Nov 28, 2021 00:43
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Figure this would fit as well here as anywhere, but has anyone put e-track onto an aluminum trailer? Are you supposed to just drill and use huge washers from the back if the frame isn't nearby?
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Nov 28, 2021 02:35
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BlackMK4 posted:Figure this would fit as well here as anywhere, but has anyone put e-track onto an aluminum trailer? Are you supposed to just drill and use huge washers from the back if the frame isn't nearby? Is the outside aluminum or fibreglass? I've installed it in fibreglass cube van boxes and I used carriage bolts. I just drilled through from the inside, shoved the bolts in from the outside and tightened the poo poo down. The square part of the carriage bolt kinda bit in to the outside of the wall and sat there with just a bit of the bolt head sticking out. Ninja edit: gently caress, you said aluminum right in the post. No experience with that. How much do you care about the looks? Like I get you probably don't want it to look like total poo poo, but are looking for a super clean look or you don't care if it just looks utilitarian? I think if you just tightened the bolts down until they sat flush(ish) with the outside surface that would be fine. No reason you can't use washers to distribute the load a bit more though if you want to. What will you be strapping to the walls?
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Nov 28, 2021 02:53
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I don't care a ton about looks, but it is a pretty nice trailer so no reason to tear it all up. I have a 14ft Featherlite and just picked up another car where the tiedown locations I've been using straight up won't work, at least in the rear of the car. Seems like etrack under each wheel with the wheel nets is the way I have to go, but I'm worried about doing it right and I'm open to other ideas   
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Nov 28, 2021 03:07
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Ah, now I got ya. I thought it was an enclosed trailer and you were putting it up on the walls. You might check out your state's DOT website and see if they have anything to say on the subject. If you can't find anything specific there, then just bolting through the floor with some grade 8 bolts and some washers just for good measure should probably be fine. If you can get a frame member in there somewhere at each end maybe, that would help. In other words, I don't think its necessary to have every bolt going through a frame member, but try to get strips long enough that you can get bolts through at least 2 of them. One on each end or close to the ends.
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Nov 28, 2021 03:25
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Head Bee Guy posted:The driver rear ended someone, so we had some quarter panels replaced and other cosmetic bodywork Okay, so nothing hit any suspension component. Unlikely to be an accident-caused issue, but definitely sounds like wheel balance. I think you mentioned not seeing any stick on weights on the front wheels. Depending on the wheels and the shop the can do a decent job at hiding them.
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Nov 28, 2021 16:32
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I need some snow chains for my Tacoma (4x4, 265/70-16). I'm going to be using it in the mountains in Colorado and Utah on Forest Service and BLM roads, so potentially encountering deeper drifts occasionally. Are cables like SCC/Peerless Super Z any good? I know they're lighter duty, and ideally I'd only be using these to get myself back to decent traction, not to get as deep into the wilderness as possible. I like link style chains but I can't find any that fit in my local Craigslist/Facebook marketplace and I'm on a tight budget. If I'm more likely to destroy the cable style by using these on dirt roads with 4wd and a locked diff, I'll just suck it up and get links. Followup: How much wiggle room is there with tire size? I found a guy selling an unused set of v-bar chains that fit 265/75-16. Would it be possible to make these work with a tighter tensioner or am I just setting myself up for ripping my brake lines off or similar? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Nov 29, 2021 |
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Nov 29, 2021 00:34
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I need some snow chains for my Tacoma (4x4, 265/70-16). I'm going to be using it in the mountains in Colorado and Utah on Forest Service and BLM roads, so potentially encountering deeper drifts occasionally. I don't know about your use case as I've used them for short distances on FWD cars, but I like how easy it is to put on the Super Z with the tensioner thing.
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Nov 29, 2021 00:39
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I need some snow chains for my Tacoma (4x4, 265/70-16). I'm going to be using it in the mountains in Colorado and Utah on Forest Service and BLM roads, so potentially encountering deeper drifts occasionally. +1 on Super Zs, I go to Tahoe every season and had to put on chains maybe 3 times so far (Honda Pilot AWD) but each time was easy as pie. I had never put on chains before and I got them on in about 3 minutes on the first wheel and another 1-2 minutes on the subsequent ones. I wouldn't try to save money by buying something that might not fit. I suspect you'll lose traction and potentially cause an accident.
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Nov 29, 2021 07:23
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I'm looking for a website that let's me search cars depending on engine type, horsepower, style, etc. So far I've found iseecars.com, but it's pretty meh and I can't believe there's nothing better out there.
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Nov 29, 2021 16:17
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2014 Ford Transit Connect - 2.5L engine with (I think based on Wikipedia) the 6F-35 six speed auto trans. Transmission behavior question; symptoms are: - Hard 2-3 shift. Feels like it "hangs" at the top of 2nd and drops into 3rd with a lurch. Happens at low, medium, and high throttle. Seems like low and high throttle are the smoothest, with medium throttle shifts the most harsh. - "Dip" in RPM going through 3rd at low/medium throttle. Happens around 3k RPM at medium throttle. Watching the tach you can see the rpm increasing until just past 3k where it dips a couple hundred rpm and then rises again. Almost like if you'd slipped the clutch in a manual trans a bit. Doesn't happen at full throttle. - Lag in selecting reverse. On cold startup if you drop it into reverse right away and let off the brake nothing happens and then it bangs into reverse. Happens when warm too, just not as severe. - Will bang a double-gear downshift on the highway. If you're doing ~70mph and have cruise control engaged, when you start to climb an incline steep enough to cause a 2 or 3 gear downshift it BANGS into the gear. Single gear downshifts seem smooth enough. I've read online that there are just some "issues" with the 6F-35 overall, but wondering if this behavior seems "normal" enough or if there's something I should be investigating with a service shop. For what it's worth we have had a trans fluid change done but it didn't change any behavior. Some of the symptoms feel like things you'd associate with low trans fluid, but I have to believe it was filled properly. Oh and there's no dipstick to check... Thanks!
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Nov 29, 2021 19:35
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busalover posted:I'm looking for a website that let's me search cars depending on engine type, horsepower, style, etc. So far I've found iseecars.com, but it's pretty meh and I can't believe there's nothing better out there. What's wrong with the flagship big boys like cars.com, autotrader, etc.? They pretty much all have style filters and engine filters. Horsepower not so much, you'll have to do your research on the side, but you can infer it from the engine filter options.
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Nov 29, 2021 19:39
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Motronic posted:If it's anything like the earlier Suby TPMS sensors you have a couple of choices. You can get someone with the right tool to clone the ID's of your summer tires to the snow set (recommended) or do a relearn procedure with a tool every time you swap wheels. I went to the dealership for the recommended fix and they did it for free. Thanks Subaru!
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Nov 29, 2021 19:57
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amenenema posted:2014 Ford Transit Connect - 2.5L engine with (I think based on Wikipedia) the 6F-35 six speed auto trans. Transmission behavior question; symptoms are: It looks like checking and adding is an enormous pain in the rear end, so probably something worth having a shop do. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/3113-2014-transmission-fluid-level-checkrefill/
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Nov 29, 2021 19:58
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Krakkles posted:My first thought was low fluid. Even given that it had these symptoms before and after a trans drain/fill from the dealer?
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Nov 29, 2021 20:34
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I'm going to say I don't think that rules it out, but give the hivemind a minute. There's probably someone who knows more about your specific vehicle. (I don't think it rules it out because other people's work on a car is frequently questionable and it's a pain in the rear end looking procedure, which multiplies the likelyhood someone didn't do it right.)
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Nov 29, 2021 20:41
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Krakkles posted:I'm going to say I don't think that rules it out, but give the hivemind a minute. There's probably someone who knows more about your specific vehicle. Oh absolutely, not ruling it out just wanted to make sure I was being clear re: symptoms before/after trans drain and fill.
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Nov 29, 2021 20:57
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Edit: gently caress probably should have taken the thread title advice Hadlock fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Nov 30, 2021 |
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Nov 30, 2021 07:30
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I own a 2018 Honda Odyssey and there is a plastic piece attached to the fuel door that keeps it shut. A part of this plastic part snapped off so the fuel door no longer closes. I went to my Honda dealer and he told me he is unable to purchase that plastic part unless he orders the ENTIRE fuel door assembly, which would cost me $200. I can't seem to find this piecet otherwise. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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Nov 30, 2021 15:18
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DTaeKim posted:I own a 2018 Honda Odyssey and there is a plastic piece attached to the fuel door that keeps it shut. A part of this plastic part snapped off so the fuel door no longer closes. I went to my Honda dealer and he told me he is unable to purchase that plastic part unless he orders the ENTIRE fuel door assembly, which would cost me $200. I can't seem to find this piecet otherwise. Can someone point me in the right direction? Is it one of the parts shown in the diagram here? https://www.hondapartsonline.net/oem-parts/honda-actuator-assembly-fuel-lid-74700thra01
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Nov 30, 2021 15:35
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It might be #6 . The dealer thought it was a part of #4, which is why he wasn't keen on ordering it because he also thought it was too expensive for what it looked like. I've taken pictures on the part in question. https://imgur.com/a/7673qla
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Nov 30, 2021 15:52
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Then I believe this is what you need - https://www.hondapartsonline.net/oem-parts/honda-striker-fuel-filler-lid-74481thra02?c=bT0xJmw9MSZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3Rz
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Nov 30, 2021 16:50
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You might be able to get it for free too. Looks like there's a TSB for a related part, which requires replacing the part you need: https://www.tsbsearch.com/Honda/18-018 Not sure if you're impacted by the symptoms, but you might want to try and get it replaced anyway as I wouldn't want to get stuck in the cold with an empty gas tank.
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Nov 30, 2021 17:15
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My wife's 2013 honda fit goes through headlights like candy. I'm replacing one of them 4 times a year or more. I've looked into getting LED bulbs, but there's some blogs and such out there basically saying that the light quality would be terrible, unless you're lucky. Is this someone just blogging for clicks? Is there a resource that can tell me if I need to replace the entire assembly if I want to move to LED lights on that car, or there are lights that can work in that car?
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Nov 30, 2021 23:54
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CainFortea posted:My wife's 2013 honda fit goes through headlights like candy. I'm replacing one of them 4 times a year or more. that isn’t normal, and getting aftermarket LED bulbs isn’t going to fix the underlying problem
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Nov 30, 2021 23:57
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CainFortea posted:My wife's 2013 honda fit goes through headlights like candy. I'm replacing one of them 4 times a year or more. LED headlights that are actually usable/DOT approved are an assembly. You can't just jam bulbs into an incandescent assembly and hope for the best. Unless that model had factory LED headlight assemblies available you are out of luck. But you have a very different problem, that will not be solved by changing bulb technologies. I'm gonna start with this: do you know that you can't touch a headlight bulb with your bare hands because the oil on your fingers will make them die quickly? If not, buy some disposable gloves and replace the headlights again and I assure you you'll be good for a while.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:00
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Motronic posted:But you have a very different problem, that will not be solved by changing bulb technologies. I'm gonna start with this: do you know that you can't touch a headlight bulb with your bare hands because the oil on your fingers will make them die quickly? If not, buy some disposable gloves and replace the headlights again and I assure you you'll be good for a while.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:06
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Yes, I always use gloves. Not knowing what's causing the bulbs to burn out so fast, it is entirely possible going solid state will solve the issue.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:06
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Does the car have any other issues? Overvoltage can pop bulbs pretty easily as well. What brand of bulbs are you using? Also, when you say gloves - note that he did say disposable gloves. Unclean gloves can also cause the same issue as bare hands.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:07
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