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Maybe an intermittent ground problem or something?
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Dec 1, 2021 00:08
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Krakkles posted:Does the car have any other issues? Yea, I use nitriles. I don't recall the brands off the top of my head, this has been going on for a few years. I don't think i've ever specified when I call in my order. Edit: And no other problems really. The fuel pump died last year and we got that replaced. That's about it. I can check the voltage when I replace the bulb I suppose.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:11
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CainFortea posted:Not knowing what's causing the bulbs to burn out so fast, it is entirely possible going solid state will solve the issue. And cause another issue: blinding oncoming drivers because you jammed LED bulbs into enclosures not designed for them. Don't do that.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:13
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opengl128 posted:And cause another issue: blinding oncoming drivers because you jammed LED bulbs into enclosures not designed for them. It's almost like my original question was looking for some resources that can help me avoid that!
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Dec 1, 2021 00:14
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CainFortea posted:Yea, I use nitriles. Do you get moisture into that housing?
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Dec 1, 2021 00:22
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VelociBacon posted:Do you get moisture into that housing? When I first noticed how fast these bulbs were going, I checked a few times. Especially on rather humid days or rainy weeks. And no, i've not seen any moisture in the housing.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:27
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Seeing as you've checked for moisture and are using clean gloves, and don't have any other problems, have you checked for cracks in the plastic housing, or loose bolts causing excessive vibration? I'd also inspect the wires around the headlights to make sure they are properly sheathed and not rubbing against metal anywhere.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:21
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CainFortea posted:My wife's 2013 honda fit goes through headlights like candy. I'm replacing one of them 4 times a year or more. Just to clarify, youre replacing one bulb 4 times a year (like just the left side) or youre replacing throughout the year, either side, so 4 bulbs total? One side would indicate something. Check the socket they plug into. I had a Mazda3 that ended up with a rusty socket I didnt notice at first. The bulb would appear to die, removing and plugging in a new bulb would scrape away rust and get a good connection, then a few months later the rust would make it go bad again. 4 total between both sides, might depend how much your driving with them on and what brand youve been using. Cheap ones like Silverstar basics are often rated for something like 150 hours. 1 hour a day would get you 4 replacements a year.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:26
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It's both bulbs, not just one side. I'll check for loose bolts. And yea, when I check the voltage i'll check the connectors for rust.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:56
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Make 'Don't put LED bulbs in your non LED headlights' the background text of AI
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Dec 1, 2021 02:05
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CainFortea posted:I've looked into getting LED bulbs, but there's some blogs and such out there basically saying that the light quality would be terrible, unless you're lucky. The short version of why you can't just install different bulbs is optics. Every bulb produces light in different patterns. A standard halogen bulb has a filament that glows, xenon/HID bulbs have an arc, and LEDs have one or more LED modules. The reflectors and/or projectors are designed around the light sources they came with and will produce unpredictable results when used with the wrong light sources. If you want to change lighting technology the right way, you have to change the optics. That means OEM-spec upgrade, high-quality aftermarket, or a custom projector retrofit. All that said though, everyone else is right that if changing bulb tech "solved" this problem it'd be either pure coincidence or the different tech hiding the real fault.
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Dec 1, 2021 07:06
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wolrah posted:The short version of why you can't just install different bulbs is optics. Every bulb produces light in different patterns. A standard halogen bulb has a filament that glows, xenon/HID bulbs have an arc, and LEDs have one or more LED modules. The reflectors and/or projectors are designed around the light sources they came with and will produce unpredictable results when used with the wrong light sources. Yea, that's what i've seen in the articles i've read. But i've also seen those same articles say sometimes it does work. But they dont't list any combos that do work, that was why I was asking if there was a resource that does list combos that are known to work.
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Dec 1, 2021 15:11
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amenenema posted:2014 Ford Transit Connect - 2.5L engine with (I think based on Wikipedia) the 6F-35 six speed auto trans. Transmission behavior question; symptoms are: Got buried under LightChatTM, just wondering if anyone else had thoughts. I did find this - https://www.reddit.com/r/fordfusion/comments/gt8u4u/for_those_of_you_suffering_from_the_23_hard_shift/ ???
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Dec 1, 2021 15:38
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99 Ford Ranger, Manual trans if that matters. I went to start it last night. It was a bit cold (around 30) but not crazy. It was cranking strongly, but not catching. Battery is reading 12V. I gave it a full crank without the clutch down, turned it off, and then tried to start it again and it caught. I'm gonna try and replicate that when I get home tonight, but is there anything I should be checking? The battery terminals have a bunch of crystalization on them if that means anything
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Dec 1, 2021 16:22
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AFewBricksShy posted:The battery terminals have a bunch of crystalization on them if that means anything I believe this can be from a not-perfect connection to the terminals but I could be way off. Maybe start with neutralizing the acidic crystalization with baking soda+water and then cleaning the terminals (wire brush) and reconnect.
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Dec 1, 2021 16:32
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CainFortea posted:Yea, that's what i've seen in the articles i've read. But i've also seen those same articles say sometimes it does work. But they dont't list any combos that do work, that was why I was asking if there was a resource that does list combos that are known to work. For the record, the cases where it works "OK" are almost exclusively vehicles that have projectors designed for halogen bulbs. The nature of a projector makes them a lot more tolerant to fuckery because they fully enclose the light source and shape the low beam with a hard cutoff. You still usually won't get an ideal beam pattern but you usually won't be blasting light where it doesn't belong like what happens when you put the wrong bulbs in a reflector so it's not nearly as bad for other drivers as a "plug and play" setup in reflectors. There are still exceptions though, some projectors have "squirrel finders" that intentionally leak some light above the low beam cutoff to better illuminate signage outside of the primary beam, obviously that leakage pattern will have been designed with the intended light source in mind and will behave differently with something else.
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Dec 1, 2021 17:03
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AFewBricksShy posted:99 Ford Ranger, Manual trans if that matters. If it's truly cranking hard and just not firing, that doesn't sound like a battery/cable/starter issue. If this is intermittent this will be a royal pain to fix until it becomes consistent, but my first guess would be to check fuel pressure after it's been parked. Or if you don't have the tools for that, and it's reliably taking a long time to fire, try priming the fuel pump by turning the key to run, waiting five seconds, turning it off, and repeating that process two or three times before you attempt to start it. If going through that process makes it fire immediately every time, your fuel system is losing too much pressure while sitting which could be any of a number of issues.
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Dec 1, 2021 17:16
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amenenema posted:Got buried under LightChatTM, just wondering if anyone else had thoughts. I did find this - https://www.reddit.com/r/fordfusion/comments/gt8u4u/for_those_of_you_suffering_from_the_23_hard_shift/ ??? I would absolutely want to investigate the issue further. Ford had numerous issues with transmissions from that era, and it looks like the 6F35 is no exception. Ive only had personal experience with a 2013 Focus, but it definitely had similar symptoms and required major service even after the initial recall repair. Id probably just go ahead and talk to a local Ford dealer about whats going on. Theyre really your only chance at getting a goodwill repair if repair is needed, and Im going to hazard a guess that something is indeed failing.
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Dec 1, 2021 20:07
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The rubber gasket/weather seal on my passenger side door is coming off. Does anyone have experience just supergluing it back on, or should I get this 3M weatherstrip adhesive I see recommended online?
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Dec 1, 2021 21:29
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Yes, you should get the correct adhesive if you want it to stay in place.
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Dec 1, 2021 21:31
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at least the correct *kind* of goop, superglue? come on. something tackier for sure
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Dec 1, 2021 21:40
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The correct adhesive didn't work the first time or it wouldn't be coming off just put whatever you can find in your kitchen junk drawer on there and see how it goes
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Dec 2, 2021 00:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's truly cranking hard and just not firing, that doesn't sound like a battery/cable/starter issue. This fixed it. Is anything easy to check myself that might be a culprit?
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Dec 2, 2021 01:21
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bird with big dick posted:The correct adhesive didn't work the first time or it wouldn't be coming off just put whatever you can find in your kitchen junk drawer on there and see how it goes Or the surface prep on the door flange, the actual weatherstrip, or both wasn't performed. Adhesives applied within their stated parameters don't typically fail. It's surface prep. Use this after prep: 
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Dec 2, 2021 02:41
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PainterofCrap posted:Or the surface prep on the door flange, the actual weatherstrip, or both wasn't performed. Adhesives applied within their stated parameters don't typically fail. It's surface prep. tell me how this is better than the sticky rtv
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Dec 2, 2021 07:36
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How many miles are on this 2004 Lariat? 42,9k or 429k? I think based on the alignment that its 42k and the 1.5 is a different metric. Thoughts?
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Dec 2, 2021 07:38
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If it's 429,000 miles, that's 25,000 miles a year. That's not unbelievable for a work truck. What does the rest of the vehicle look like? Do you think it's more likely to be a work truck or a little old lady truck?
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Dec 2, 2021 07:57
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Sagebrush posted:If it's 429,000 miles, that's 25,000 miles a year. That's not unbelievable for a work truck. What does the rest of the vehicle look like? Do you think it's more likely to be a work truck or a little old lady truck? Immaculate.
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Dec 2, 2021 07:59
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Well, here are a couple more pictures of the odometer in a 2004 F-150.    I don't think that it's a random extra two digit number just after the odometer. Maybe the first digit is glitched and it's actually a 1 with some stuck segments. Or maybe it really does have that many miles and they're all cruising on an empty highway all day long and it's just the one in a million high-mileage trucks that still looks great.
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Dec 2, 2021 08:02
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Pretty, pretty impressive. Thanks.
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Dec 2, 2021 08:08
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I dont know where to start with this, but its a stupid question, so I will start here. I have a company car (2019 Subaru Outback. 4000 miles). I have changed roles in my job and they will either (a) take the car away or (b) let me purchase it for 11k. I live in an urban area and I do not need or want a car. I would be fine with giving the car back, but Im tempted to buy the car at 11k and re-sell it immediately. Carmax is quoting me 29k. Is this stupid? What am I missing? Is there a better approach? Thanks!
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Dec 2, 2021 08:15
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Officer Koala Fart posted:What am I missing? Is there a better approach? Thanks! Check with Carvana to see if they'll give you an even better price. I'm being quoted 28k by Carvana on a 40k mile 2019 Crosstrek so you should hopefully get more (depending on trim level)
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Dec 2, 2021 08:27
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luminalflux posted:Check with Carvana to see if they'll give you an even better price. I'm being quoted 28k by Carvana on a 40k mile 2019 Crosstrek so you should hopefully get more (depending on trim level) Awesome, thanks!
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Dec 2, 2021 08:55
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On the other hand if you have a lightly modified 2011 Mazda2 Carmax and Carvana are particularly uninterested lol. Go get that money for the Subaru!
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Dec 2, 2021 14:51
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AFewBricksShy posted:This “fixed” it. Is anything easy to check myself that might be a culprit? Assuming it's not pissing gas somewhere, and that otherwise it runs fine, there's a check valve somewhere in the fuel system that isn't doing its job. On my Wrangler this was part of the fuel pump. Other possibility would be fuel injector(s) leaking fuel after shutdown but that seems like it would also result in fueling issues while running.
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Dec 2, 2021 15:06
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pnac attack posted:tell me how this is better than the sticky rtv I have used just about every kind of gasket adhesive over the past forty years. I swore by silicone RTV. First off, unlike RTV, it's made specifically to bond weatherstrip to metal. Much, much better control of application. It's thinner, and sticks like counter adhesive: Lay a thin bead, let it sit a few seconds, press in the gasket, and it'll hold without tape. If you have unusual bends or curves: Apply a thin bead, immediately press the gasket in place, pull it off, count to five, and press it back in again. It ain't movin.' I'm never going back.
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Dec 2, 2021 16:05
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Officer Koala Fart posted:I dont know where to start with this, but its a stupid question, so I will start here. The leasing companies sell these for ridiculously below market value to employees. I think it saves them a ton of paperwork & labor? At my last job (17-years & five company cars) when the car was ready for turn-back, I had right of first refusal for well below market. My last car with them, a 2018 Ford Flex, I could have bought out for $12K. At the time, same age & mileage, they retailed for $22K. I was tempted to do this but didn't have the free cash. If you can, do it.
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Dec 2, 2021 16:11
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PainterofCrap posted:I have used just about every kind of gasket adhesive over the past forty years. I swore by silicone RTV. Agreed. I've used it twice now, and it held the stripping bending in a 90 degree corner. It didn't come that way when I bought the truck and I was convinced I was going to have to miter it in.
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Dec 2, 2021 16:29
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AFewBricksShy posted:This fixed it. Is anything easy to check myself that might be a culprit? I had a 1998 Ranger for a while and this started happening before two separate fuel pump failures about 5 years apart. Have you seen a check engine light coding for lean mixture yet? It also happened when I had an ignition relay going bad, but the only way to fix it when it decided to fail (cold mornings resulting in condensation) was a bump start. Until I figured it out and just replaced the relay. Come to think of it I also had a fuel pump fail on my 1993 F150 in a similar way. Every time it happened I got stranded in a really inconvenient place, like the bottom of an interstate off-ramp, in the grocery store parking lot, on the interstate in a desolate part of Arizona. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Dec 2, 2021 |
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Dec 2, 2021 17:53
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I just got into an accident where the other driver is seemingly entirely at fault. My car is still completely operable, but it is pretty old and it sustained some pretty bad cosmetic damage. I think there's a decent chance it gets totaled. Is it at all worth the hassle in NYS to keep driving a totaled car if the suspension, engine, and transmission are all unaffected?
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Dec 2, 2021 18:52
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